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roundy

Has anyone fixed the brake judder?? getting annoying now

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This sounds A LOT like wishbones/control arms/bushes in the front suspension. A LOT. have you had them checked at all?

 

They can cause judder under braking, and judder under acceleration, you appear to have experienced both which rules out a lot of other things.

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Hopefully having them checked this weekend.

 

Trying to make some time to have it all checked, i recently started detailing cars on weekends and i'm struggling for time.

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You could have a defective wheel bearing . Had this same problem with my last vehicle - a Toyota Land Cruiser. The noise started at 50mph and stopped above 70 mph. Could not feel any play in the massive wheels. Replaced the front wheel bearings and all was well again. I hope this is helpful.

Edited by HiUp
post displayed before I had finished typing.

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On 20/10/2017 at 8:17 AM, roundy said:

I was thinking yesterday after i had written the title i should have added more info. 

 

Mine only seems to be doing the 'judder' at higher speeds, i don't notice it when first starting and setting off.

 

Definitely only happens once above 50mpg and more spirited journey's . The rest of the car is so smooth this is starting to bug me ALLOT.

 

I'm also prone to the vibration around 60/70mpg and then it's gone over 80mpg, that seems less these days whilst in Sport mode etc.

 

 

 

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a vibration that starts at 50 mph will be wheel balancing.   If left for too long you will ruin the tyre and you will struggle to make the tyre round again.  If this is the case, only anew tyre will fix the issue.

 

Any decent tyre shop will advise how far gone the tyre is and if a re balance will fix the issue.

 

Any suspension issue will result in knocking and or vibration at any speed and generally only at lower speeds when starting off or coming to a stand still.

 

 

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This was found in another forum and me and Andy m wondered if it could be the issue..

 

Ive just found this on another post. I know its not a f10 but the symptums sound the same!??

 

                              The control arm that goes bad on the BMW E 60 is going to be the front lower control arm (stress arm). Symptoms of the bushing going bad would be when you hit the break or hit the gas you feel movement in your wheel that should not be there. A little play if you want to call it. Another way to tell is when you're hitting your brakes firmly your wheel or wheels will be feeling very bumpy. Kind of like when you have warped rotors, the same feeling as that.other than that you can also YouTube some videos on this. they usually go bad about 90,000 miles or even a little higher for someone who drive their car like a granny. If you are a spirited driver and enjoy driving your vehicle the way it was built to be driven, you will only get 60 to 70 thousand miles on yours. I changed mine out at 60,000.when you do change out your control arms if they are bad, make sure you order your sway bar links as well. They're inexpensive and it is definitely worth doing both of those at the same time. And if you're going to be purchasing a specific brand I would stick with either Meyle HD or Lemforder.

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6 hours ago, roundy said:

This was found in another forum and me and Andy m wondered if it could be the issue..

 

Ive just found this on another post. I know its not a f10 but the symptums sound the same!??

 

                              The control arm that goes bad on the BMW E 60 is going to be the front lower control arm (stress arm). Symptoms of the bushing going bad would be when you hit the break or hit the gas you feel movement in your wheel that should not be there. A little play if you want to call it. Another way to tell is when you're hitting your brakes firmly your wheel or wheels will be feeling very bumpy. Kind of like when you have warped rotors, the same feeling as that.other than that you can also YouTube some videos on this. they usually go bad about 90,000 miles or even a little higher for someone who drive their car like a granny. If you are a spirited driver and enjoy driving your vehicle the way it was built to be driven, you will only get 60 to 70 thousand miles on yours. I changed mine out at 60,000.when you do change out your control arms if they are bad, make sure you order your sway bar links as well. They're inexpensive and it is definitely worth doing both of those at the same time. And if you're going to be purchasing a specific brand I would stick with either Meyle HD or Lemforder.

 

sorry to sound like an arse but multiple people have already suggested that as the cause of the problem. Get the car up on some ramps at a garage and get them checked. Any garage can check the wear on bushes for all your suspension bits, I think it's even part of an MOT. Every car "suffers" with this type of problem, but heavy large engine BMWs do wear them out quickly. My old E39 530d used to rip through them, they were always getting replaced at a service.

Edited by johnleb

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You don't sound like an arse at all John, i'm having work done on mine this weekend so will have them look into this. 

 

I'd rather it be a bush problem to be honest than messing with brakes/disks/wheel alignment etc.

 

 Does anyone know the cost of a wheel bush at at all guys?

 

Cheers.

Edited by roundy

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Sorry haven't read all the posts as two people seem to have a similar problem and it's  a bit confusing. If the car is shaking so badly it can be felt in the seats it will be the wheels.

 

I speak from experience.

 

BMW branded alloys are not great anyway, ask any alloy repairer. They are made all the more vulnerable by runflat tyres and our third world roads. On a staggered setup the rears are more prone to buckling because they are not so well supported on the inside rim.  Look at the offset vs the extreme edge of the inner rim.

 

For reference, Had my 53k f10 on an MOT shaker lift yesterday and it was pulled all over the place whilst i was underneath so could see it all moving about. Rear subframe (rear axle carrier) bushes had a bit of movement and a slight nick but overall very good condition.  Diff same. All ball joints original (except front wishbones) and in VGC. Front no movement at all. Got RFT on rear and nRFT XL on front. The difference in sidewall movement was huge. RFT not flexing at all.

 

 

 

 

 

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