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Never heard of the trailer control unit altering gearbox shift patterns, nor noticed it doing so as the gearbox ecu would sort that out sensing the load, but the Westfalia control unit certainly makes the car aware its towing and cancels out rear parking sensors and I think but never checked it will identify trailer bulb failure.

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Never heard of the trailer control unit altering gearbox shift patterns, nor noticed it doing so as the gearbox ecu would sort that out sensing the load, but the Westfalia control unit certainly makes the car aware its towing and cancels out rear parking sensors and I think but never checked it will identify trailer bulb failure.

Yes looking into it, it does do bulb failure in the trailer! Sounds like a dedicated kit needs coding to the car, can anyone confirm?

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31 minutes ago, Smigger530d said:

Yes looking into it, it does do bulb failure in the trailer! Sounds like a dedicated kit needs coding to the car, can anyone confirm?

 

Nope, the Westfalia is plug and play. No need for a laptop to make it work. That's one big advantage of the Westfalia kit, it works straight from the box.

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My car has been coded to include the towbar option. It had the original BMW kit removed at the same time the westfalia kit was fitted and we were chatting about the coding afterwards.

 

It does work without coding though according to PF Jones. I don't know if it makes any difference to the rest of the car if the option is enabled. 

Edited by dandle

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BMW don't allow soldering on their looms for retro fits. I don't know what they are called but they use a little black clip very similar to a scotch lock any time they have to break into a loom, they must be pretty good as they won't have many people coming back with wiring issues ( like you would get with a blue scotch lock).

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BMW don't allow soldering on their looms for retro fits. I don't know what they are called but they use a little black clip very similar to a scotch lock any time they have to break into a loom, they must be pretty good as they won't have many people coming back with wiring issues ( like you would get with a blue scotch lock).

 

 

 

Posi-taps?

 

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11 hours ago, dandle said:

My car has been coded to include the towbar option. It had the original BMW kit removed at the same time the westfalia kit was fitted and we were chatting about the coding afterwards.

 

It does work without coding though according to PF Jones. I don't know if it makes any difference to the rest of the car if the option is enabled. 

 

Thats interesting, did your car have option 3AC towbar fitted and it failed and was replaced by the detachable Westfalia?

 

Westfalia make towbars and wiring looms for a number of manufacturers like Audi and Ford, but unlike BMW, after fitting a Westfalia dedicated electrical kit to your Audi or Ford, it then needs coding to work.

 

10 hours ago, sshooie said:

And don't (ever) use shitty scotch locks. Soldering everytime is the only way to go imo. 

 

Have to admit that all the towbars I've ever fitted have used scotch locks and I've never had an issue, but knowing what I know now about wiring (thanks to model railway wiring) I would be inclined to solder now.

 

I used scotch locks on my E60 when I fitted its towbar so I could quickly remove them from the loom in the event of a wiring issue, but I appear to have been a rare E60 owner in reporting only about 3 or 4 ery minor electrical gremlins over all the years I had it.

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Have to admit that all the towbars I've ever fitted have used scotch locks and I've never had an issue, but knowing what I know now about wiring (thanks to model railway wiring) I would be inclined to solder now.

 

I used scotch locks on my E60 when I fitted its towbar so I could quickly remove them from the loom in the event of a wiring issue, but I appear to have been a rare E60 owner in reporting only about 3 or 4 ery minor electrical gremlins over all the years I had it.

The fact did doesn’t need coding may have tipped the balance to splashing out on a dedicated kit?!?!

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Just now, Smigger530d said:

The fact did doesn’t need coding may have tipped the balance to splashing out on a dedicated kit?!?!

 

Good man, you know it makes sense. Try eBay for one, you might save a few quid.

 

If you run into issues on the install, but you shouldn't, I'm sure between me and Matthew and the others who have fitted one, you will be fine. 

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Good man, you know it makes sense. Try eBay for one, you might save a few quid.

 

If you run into issues on the install, but you shouldn't, I'm sure between me and Matthew and the others who have fitted one, you will be fine. 

Looking at the online instructions it looks like the dedicated kit needs tracking to the front of the car to plug in???

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29 minutes ago, Smigger530d said:

Looking at the online instructions it looks like the dedicated kit needs tracking to the front of the car to plug in???

 

That is correct, there is a twisted pair of cables from the Westfalia trailer module orange/green and green.  These need to be connected to one of the ecu's in the drivers footwell.  

 

This is the connection between the canbus of the car and the trailer lights .  When you operate the lights in the cockpit the trailer module picks these up and translates them into signals to power the relevant trailer light.  It also talks back to the ecu to tell the car its towing to disconnect the rear parking sensors etc.

 

When I installed this in my dads car, I found the wires supplied on the Westfalia module were not long enough.  I lengthened them in a joint under the rear bench seat and fed the twisted pair to the drivers footwell under the plastic trim panels. Its important that the canbus wires are twisted to prevent interference being picked up.

 

According to Westfalia technical help desk, you can connect the black and yellow wire from the Westfalia trailer module to the centre brake light rather than routing it to the front too.  Its just a belt and braces approach to ensuring the brake lights are detected and powered on the trailer.

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54 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

That is correct, there is a twisted pair of cables from the Westfalia trailer module orange/green and green.  These need to be connected to one of the ecu's in the drivers footwell.  

 

This is the connection between the canbus of the car and the trailer lights .  When you operate the lights in the cockpit the trailer module picks these up and translates them into signals to power the relevant trailer light.  It also talks back to the ecu to tell the car its towing to disconnect the rear parking sensors etc.

 

When I installed this in my dads car, I found the wires supplied on the Westfalia module were not long enough.  I lengthened them in a joint under the rear bench seat and fed the twisted pair to the drivers footwell under the plastic trim panels. Its important that the canbus wires are twisted to prevent interference being picked up.

 

According to Westfalia technical help desk, you can connect the black and yellow wire from the Westfalia trailer module to the centre brake light rather than routing it to the front too.  Its just a belt and braces approach to ensuring the brake lights are detected and powered on the trailer.

 

The wires were a perfect length on my F11 so long as you don't follow Westfalia's instructions to take them down the left side of the car - their instructions give details for left hand drive cars forgetting about we "right" people.

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10 hours ago, Matthew Ashton said:

 

The wires were a perfect length on my F11 so long as you don't follow Westfalia's instructions to take them down the left side of the car - their instructions give details for left hand drive cars forgetting about we "right" people.

 

Lol yeah the instructions are for left hookers....and no that wasn't my problem.

 

Thankfully I have loads of appropriate coloured wire from my model railway which was used. Front memory it was a good bit short.

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I recently fitted a Westfalia bar to my F07 which contained instructions for several models. There is no need to run the canbus wires the length of the car - the instructions clearly show where to connect to existing wires on the right hand side of the boot. Again the supplied instructions say to have the car coded at the dealer if you want the full facilities of the WF trailer module to take effect.

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7 hours ago, chrisn7 said:

I recently fitted a Westfalia bar to my F07 which contained instructions for several models. There is no need to run the canbus wires the length of the car - the instructions clearly show where to connect to existing wires on the right hand side of the boot. Again the supplied instructions say to have the car coded at the dealer if you want the full facilities of the WF trailer module to take effect.

 

Was that this year?  I wonder if they have changed it, makes life much easier if canbus connection is in the rear.

 

In my car with the 3AC towbar, I can see the twisted pair in the boot, they are the same colours as the Westfalia loom.  Can't decide if that's unique to a 3AC install or there is the canbus in the rear right enough.

 

Having to get it coded is a pain though.

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Andrew - yes, I fitted the bar and wiring about 4 weeks ago. Every reference I had seen prior to the instructions showed the need to run the canbus wires to the front, but the WF instructions showed otherwise happily.

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11 minutes ago, chrisn7 said:

Andrew - yes, I fitted the bar and wiring about 4 weeks ago. Every reference I had seen prior to the instructions showed the need to run the canbus wires to the front, but the WF instructions showed otherwise happily.

 

Thanks for that, who did your coding to make it work?

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9 hours ago, chrisn7 said:

I recently fitted a Westfalia bar to my F07 which contained instructions for several models. There is no need to run the canbus wires the length of the car - the instructions clearly show where to connect to existing wires on the right hand side of the boot. Again the supplied instructions say to have the car coded at the dealer if you want the full facilities of the WF trailer module to take effect.

 

The pre-LCI 5GT towbar electrics, connect to the CanBus wires in the boot. F10 and F11 cars need to pick up the signal at the front of the car. But there is no coding needed unless you buy the "Right Connections" dedicated wiring which does recommend it. My F11 towbar electrics work as if the car rolled out of the factory with the towbar and electrics fitted. For Post-LCI F07s the Westfalia instructions show a connection at the front only inline with the F10 and F11.

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Thanks for clarifying Matthew.

 

The E60 canbus is in the rear, perhaps the early F07 was based more on the E60/E65 type than that proposed for the F10/F11?  That would make sense as the F07 was released before the F10 wasn't?

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2 hours ago, 535i Andrew said:

Thanks for clarifying Matthew.

 

The E60 canbus is in the rear, perhaps the early F07 was based more on the E60/E65 type than that proposed for the F10/F11?  That would make sense as the F07 was released before the F10 wasn't?

 

Yes, the F07 was based on the F01 architecture and was released in 2009 alongside the outgoing E60/61.

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Westfalia supply individual sets of instructions for the towbar, wiring, and supplementary wiring. If you search the number below  exactly , it will return a result with the last 3 digits '007', which must be an earlier version:

303460391101 - 016

 

This earlier version covers a variety of cars, and the details for the FO7 are still the same as those in the later 016 version. If anyone can locate the 016 version it shows wiring for F10 / F11 models too.

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I think the Westfalia part numbers if ending in 007, refer to a 7 pin socket, which doesn't have the facility for reverse lights so canbus connection may be different. I have Westfalia instructions on my work PC. I can check tomorrow.

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The 7 pin and 13 pin sockets use the same wiring from the module to the car. There are numerous versions of the included instructions that are updated by Westfalia as they add new cars for use with their products.

 

The original towbar wiring part:: 303 460 300 107/113 was sold with instruction document 303 460 391 101 - 003 and covered E82; E90 and E60 (with their range variants such as E61)

Then the 303 460 300 107/113 part was sold with instruction document 303 460 391 101 - 007 and covered, in addition to the above models: F30; 5 GT and X1.

Then the 303 460 300 107/113 part was sold with instruction document 303 460 391 101 - 015 and covered, in addition to the above models: F31; F32; F10; F11; F20; F22 and X3.

 

For F10/F11/F07LCI the wiring part number changed to: 303 352 300 107/113 and its instruction document was 303 352 391 101 - 004

 

I'm sure there are other document numbers but these bring us up to date or thereabouts. All of these documents specifically state that a BMW diagnostic connection is NOT required but they all show that once the battery has been disconnected the Radio Coding needs to be observed. (I put this down to an industry standard and on our cars you need to reset the clock.)

 

Before I bought my towbar and wiring kit I did a lot of investigation to make sure that I didn't need to program the car to let it know about the electrics and Westfalia didn't fail me and this is where there unit differs from others available aftermarket. 

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