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chicaneuk

Reviving E39 530D Webasto..

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If you're fully committed to reviving your Webasto to full operational condition then it might be worth inspecting a linked pair of metal coolant pipes that run to/from the unit. On my pre-facelift 530d manual saloon the offending pipes were steel and were completely rotten. A serious leak here could mean game over for the engine if it were under load at speed. As you can see from the photo mine were shot but from the outside in, with the walls of the pipes approaching paper-thin when inspected off the car. The heavily salted roads in the Scottish Highlands have a lot to answer for,  but well worth a check even if you're in the balmy climes of the south!. It's a bit of a pain getting full access but (from memory) you can get a glimpse of them from underneath the car without removing too many covers.

 

59e0a8aebe872_2012-01-2616_47.33pipes2.thumb.jpg.4373f9608612354bd0e37de2929df949.jpg

 

There was a certain amount of confusion when identifying the pipes on Realoem and I ended up ordering a spurious pair of linked alloy pipes instead of the steel ones. The alloy pipes were £45-ish, the steel pipes an eye-watering £224. Some models require steel pipes, other alloy. Check very carefully before you commit to buying since both versions are special order from Germany and not returnable. Both look exactly the same on the Realoem parts diagram.

 

For reference, the STEEL pipes part number is 64128383019, and the ALLOY pipes are 64126916537.

 

I therefore have a pair of alloy pipes sitting on my desk but, if Realoem is to be believed, they'll fit my E39 M5 so I'll probably hang on to them 'just in case'!

 

(In the end I just pulled the fuse on the Webasto since the electrics and associated connectors looked fried and I didn't fancy weird battery draining issues. My mate had a similar E39 a few years ago and his Webasto suddenly started belching clouds of black fumes one morning without warning. His wife called the fire brigade! Safe to say, the electrics on the Webasto had also corroded to hell so he also pulled the fuse.)

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4 hours ago, DepthHoar said:

If you're fully committed to reviving your Webasto to full operational condition then it might be worth inspecting a linked pair of metal coolant pipes that run to/from the unit. On my pre-facelift 530d manual saloon the offending pipes were steel and were completely rotten. A serious leak here could mean game over for the engine if it were under load at speed. As you can see from the photo mine were shot but from the outside in, with the walls of the pipes approaching paper-thin when inspected off the car. The heavily salted roads in the Scottish Highlands have a lot to answer for,  but well worth a check even if you're in the balmy climes of the south!. It's a bit of a pain getting full access but (from memory) you can get a glimpse of them from underneath the car without removing too many covers.

 

That's a strange one. I have never seen E39 530d Webasto piping routed like that. Checking at RealOEM it seems that this version is only used on early RHD versions. On LHD they are always routed up in the wheel well and in the engine bay under the pollen filter housing.

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Appreciate the heads up and information regarding the pipework but I have to say from the bits I've seen with my head under the car, the pipework looks in very good condition. Not seen any hint of rusty pipework at all so I'm going to just attempt to get it back into service and go from there. 

 

Ordered the replacement connector from BMW and am going to source some replacement fuel pipe clips next week from a handy local auto supplies store near to me.. and then we should, all being well, be in business. 

 

Interestingly on mine I did remove the pollen filter housing with the intention of clamping the coolant pipes up there, but was surprised to not see any associated pipework at all... just some kind of large plastic container. I assumed it was a fluid container of some kind but have subsequently read it's where yet more wires and relays run into - presumably before passing through the bulkhead and into the fuse board behind the glovebox? 

Edited by chicaneuk

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Argh so close...

 

I got some suitable clips for the fuel line so fitted those. I then managed dismantle the old, broken K-BUS connector plug to extract the pins. So I temporarily did a wiring repair just to test, and raced home and plugged in the fuse in the fuse board (47) and fired up INPA.

 

Good news it can interrogate the Webasto fine so it knows it’s there. I can activate the fuel pump manually as when I select it I hear a sort of feint clunking / pumping noise. But when I try start the heater it throws a script error and when I read the error log from the unit I see two warnings... one is ‘umwälzpumpe’ (so the water pump presumably) and another saying K-BUS Stoerung..... 

 

So I guess I need a new water pump now for the unit. God Damnit. I suppose I could try giving the old pump a few whacks in the hope of freeing it up temporarily, but regardless it'll need replacing I guess. 

 

The other error translates as K-BUS disorder... could the dead water pump cause that? Or is there something more sinister going on? 

Edited by chicaneuk

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Attaching this for future reference as it's a handy quick reference of what each of the connectors does and the pin out for each. 

 

 

sf0bxOiSpkFGEqtdqYxm.jpg

 

This is also about the cheapest price I've seen for a new water / circulating pump... 

 

http://www.heatso.com/webasto-thermo-top-c-e-z-water-pump-u4847-12v/

 

 

Edited by chicaneuk

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I wouldn't worry about that K-bus fault yet now that you can connect to the unit. Check also codes from IHKA and delete if there is a code for aux heater. Can you activate the Webasto from nav or MID? The activation done by diagnostics uses internal protocol on control card and is not the same as K-bus or voltage activation from vehicle. 

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As I have a UK car I don’t think I can activate it from the MID.. I believe from what I have read it’s European cars that can activate the Auxiliary Heater. 

 

Not heard of IHKA.. shall google for it! 

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My car has MID... not sure I am brave enough to tackle coding stuff with NCS just yet! :) 

 

I will I’ll have a look at some YouTube tutorials though and see how scary it looks. 

Edited by chicaneuk

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OK NCS expert seems straightforward enough from watching a few YouTube videos! However the (potential) problem I have is that when I put my ignition on and turn on the radio, then press the little clock symbol on my MID, I don't get ANY heater control options. Literally the only option I see is 'SET' to change the date and time. 

 

The climate control blower automatically comes on, but there is no options to enable or disable the blower... does that sound right? 

 

Looking at this image, I seem to have the 'BASE' cluster rather than the 'HIGH' ... 

 

MID%20Displays%20for%20Low%20and%20High%

Edited by chicaneuk

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The heating option should come there after coding is done.

 

First you have to edit your original ZCS.

 

536  0000000010000000 STANDHEIZUNG STANDLUEFTUNG

So in SA string of ZCS you add 1 on the 9th bit. Remove the last check bits on GM, SA and VN and tick the box that NCS will calculate new check sums. So if original bit value is for example 4, you change it to 5. (after 9, 10=A, 11=B...)

Then save the new ZCS (ZCS_SCHREIBEN) to both modules that have it saved, instrument cluster (KMB/IKE) and EWS.

Then code (SG_CODIERUNG) instrument cluster (KMB/IKE) and IHKA.

Edited by Clavurion

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OK - will attempt to tackle this in the next couple of days and feedback, and will get the water pump ordered in the meantime. I just want to say again, thanks for your time and patience Clavurion.. it's amusing the amount of threads regarding these heaters I've looked at on numerous different forums, and each time, there you are providing information and guidance. So - sincerely - thanks. It's people like you that help keep these cars going! 

 

This link is a very step by step guide explaining exactly what you just said to do, but in complete newb "has never used NCS tool yet" type layman's terms: 

 

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2000502-NCS-Expert-Changing-the-vehicle-order-on-EARLY-E39s&p=27981614#post27981614

 

Posting it here so I can refer back to it when I come to have a go at it :)

Edited by chicaneuk

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