oberlointment

Subwoofer E39 touring

9 posts in this topic

Hi guys just after a little help.

 

I have the wide screen nav with bm54 radio and have decided to install an aftermarket subwoofer in my E39 touring.

 

I would like the sub box to fit where the dsp sub fits over the battery. I am building my own enclosure but I am struggling with getting the dimensions right. So I thought if some one could give me the dimensions of the Nokia dsp sub that would be a great help.

 

I have the tray on top of my battery which i am going to remove but I wonder for those that have the dsp sub is there anything that is placed on top of the battery i.e. underneath the sub?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

There's nothing on top of the battery that you need to take into consideration, so it's a case of having the enclosure you make fit as close to the battery as you wish. As the location is very small in terms of volume, you'll be trying to utilise as much of it as you can in the design of it. Look at ebay and search for 'BMW 5 e39 Touring Fit-Box Subwoofer Enclosure'. Have a look at the pictures and you'll see they've maximised the space in their particular design. The 'volume' of the oem plastic enclosure is very small so any aftermarket subwoofer driver won't really be suited as they need more volume to play properly/correctly, so Id not recommend trying to make your new one the same as the oem.  

 

I'd still recommend not to 'cover' the subwoofer/enclosure once it's done by the trim cover as it'll just stifle the output. Which subwoofer driver and diameter are you thinking of using? also amplifier and it's RMS power output?

 

Cheers, Dennis!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Dennis, 

thanks for your reply. Yes I saw the one on ebay, i was almost tempted to purchase it but the price is on the high side. Shame I can't use the dimension of the oem box but I suspected your answer. 

In terms of the driver and diameter I was thinking of getting a 10" jl audio driver as it has a very shallow depth. http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/subwoofers/10-inch-subs-25cm/jl-audio-10wx-v2

or 

kenwood 

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/subwoofers/10-inch-subs-25cm/kenwood-kfc-ps2516w-12-subwoofer-1300w-max-power

 

amp wise I am considering a choice of two 

 

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/amplifiers/mono-amps/jbl-gx-a3001

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/amplifiers/mono-amps/jl-audio-jx250-1

 

I am going for an RMS output of the amp for around 200 to 300

 

be interested in hearing your thoughts

 

I have purchased a second hand trim cover and intend to cut a whole out of it to let the sound through and cover with acoustic cloth

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Oberlointment,

 

From what you mention, I'll assume you aren't amplifying and upgrading the cabin speakers? If that's the case, then once you add the subwoofer aspect, you'll find the cabin speakers will be overwhelmed given the added dose of sub bass just added. To compensate, you'll most liklely turn the subwoofer levels down quite substantially which kind of defeats the purpose! You can do a two stage approach, and that's add the subwoofer, turn down accordingly after listening and later on, when funds allow, do the cabin speakers upgrade. You'll then have a more 'balanced' setup which in turn, sounds much better. 

 

You'll need to choose carefully the subwoofer driver, the 10 inch JL you've referenced is the Version 2 (V2) range which is from an older range from some years back. I think it's recommended enclosure volume is 'relatively' larger for the area you want to use it in.  In my touring, I use the 8W3-V3 and it's ideal volume is only just about 20% larger than ideal over on the left side of the car (see below). What I did is to also put acoustic material inside the enclosure which 'tricks' the sub driver into working as if it was in a larger enclosure. You'll get decent bass if you decide to go 10 inch on the right hand side, but the calculations and volume of the enclosure need to be more accurate as it were to really maximise the volume of the enclosure. 

 

DSC05339.jpg

DSC05330.jpg

 

The Kenwood shallow depth driver looks excellent value at £65 ! 116mm mounting depth on that one. I've heard the 10 in JL Audio flat type driver that was installed in an Audi R8 and it sounded fantastic! the enclosure was custom made and careful consideration given to the volume/tuned frequency and other parameters.That driver is around £300. That's quite a difference of course and I've not heard the Kenwood item. I've no doubt the Kenwood will provide sub bass, but I'd also suggest it won't be as good, musical, controlled and smooth sub bass as the JL option. It does depend on how you do want your music reproduced. 

 

I'd suggest going for the JL amplifiers and other similar 'mid range' brand units rather than the 'budget/entry level' units from the likes of Vibe. The reason is that the internal components and electronics are better. Also, the internal Power supplies are better quality and more efficient. Vibe are the best of the 'budget' brands of car audio, so if your level of spend is relatively restricted, then do consider a vibe unit. 

 

The extra cover and cutting a whole and covering with cloth is a good idea. I'd suggest making a mounting ring to fit into the hole you cut and cover just that and press fit it in. Trying to remove the oem carpet material is a pain to do!

 

Cheers, Dennis!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Dennis, thanks as always for your excellent answer, some much need food for thought. I take your view on the sub verses the oem standard cabin speakers so might as well upgrade these items as well. I have the stage 2 amp uprage in my bm54 unit from carphonics so that will provide sufficient output for new speakers. I understand the size is 5.25". I have read at length about the oem speaker enclouses in the front being an issue. So will create the aftermarket mdf versions. I thought about buying a set of speakers from bav sound but they don't do a set for my basic stereo set up. I don't have rear tweeters or the mid ranges in the front. So it didnt seem worth it. Unless you can tell me that all i have in my car is the mid base and tweeter. Any suggestions on speaker replacements?

 

I will take you advise and purchase the jl audio amp and the jl sub bass, from what you are suggesting the 8" seems to work better so I will look at that one, but If I can squeeze the 10" in then I am happy to get that. 

 

Thanks for the suggestion of just cutting a whole and filling that. Good idea. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have been researching upgrading cabin speakers and have narrowed it down to three Focal 130ac, alpine spR 50c and rainbow el-c5 . Going to pop along to a local audio shop to listen to them.

 

Anyone had any experience of these models.

 

I have read online that the focals sound great but because they have aluminium tweeters it makes for a harsh sound.

 

The alpine should give decent bass while the rainbow should work better with my bm54 radio.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ober,

 

The Stage 2 upgrade from Baris I believe puts out around the 50W RMS per channel which is a decent level of power and will drive your chosen front end well. The downsides are that the oem EQ curve is still present, just 'louder' and you'll need to use the fader to adjust so that there's less rear fill, would have been great if both these shortcomings were addressed by for modifying the oem BM54/23 units. The basic MDF baffles are on ebay for around £20 and by mounting the new speakers in those, the effects of the OEM EQ curve will be reduced a bit. If you opt for making the larger baffles, then there's more material that will make for a more solid baffle for the speakers to play on and thus, sound better. If there was a Bavsound setup, then after import costs, VAT and Duty then clearance fees, it's like they'd come in at around £450-500 or so! 

 

You'll see many instances of people saying that metal domed tweeters will make for a harsh sound. To an extent, that's true, however with the right quality of head unit, music file quality, amplifiers and positioning, they can sound fantastic and without 'fatigue'. To achieve that, you'd not be using the oem head unit/setup etc, you'd be using a much better source unit capable of much better audio SQ. Using components with a soft dome tweeter will give a softer treble that's less fatiguing and much easier for entry level upgrades as positioning and setup isn't so important. What kind of music genres do you generally listen to? 

 

My car and also my audio setup are currently 'offline' and will be a few months more like this as I've decided to get some more aspects done with the car overall, a mixture of mechanical maintenance, new parts etc along with bodywork and then adding some more modifications too! Else, I'd have said to come have a listen to my setup! Have a look at the Four network of reputable, knowledgable car audio dealers who'll give you some more focused advice on speaker choice based on your preferences - http://www.fourcaraudio.co.uk/. For comparison, I use DLS for my cabin speakers, they're the R5A model and they're simply phenomenal for a 5.25 inch driver! I've had them since around 2001 and they're so good that they've updated them as a model range ever since. Currently, I'm not sure if there's an official UK importer, but whilst we are still in the EU, you can grab products from their European dealers. 

 

As for subwoofers, then an 8 inch will 'install' better due to the smaller volume needed. A 10 inch can and will fit but you'll need to find a more capable driver that's great when installed in very small volumes - that'll mean a more pricier driver usually. 

 

I'll drop you a pm shortly!

 

Cheers, Dennis!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for this reply Dennis you have, as always, provided some excellent and well rounded information. Especially the info regarding the eq curve and the door baffles. I did not see any for £20 on ebay. You must have keener eyes then me. :) 

 

The info about the metal tweeters is very useful. I would rather go with focal but the issue is that as I can not use focal's crossovers (which give me the ability to tune the tweeter correctly) they may prove more problematic. That coupled with the fact that I am keeping the oem HU I will opt for soft dome tweeter. 

 

I will have a look at the four network and your DLS speakers. Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now