DannyHoffman

E39 GM3 tinkling and battery drain

10 posts in this topic

Hi,
 
I have a 2000 530i Touring with virtually every option which developed a battery drain problem about a year ago which turned out to be the car not going to sleep unless I pulled fuse 56
 
I did the workaround detailed here:
 
 
whilst trying to diagnose the actual fault.
 
When I pulled my GM3 it made a tinkling sound so I assumed one of the relays was broken. I bought another off eBay which also made a tinkling sound, so I assumed they all do that.
 
I fitted it, but it didn't fix my fuse 56 problem so I carried on pulling cables from various parts of the car until I concluded the satnav screen was faulty.
 
I never got round to fitting a new satnav screen and just lived with the minor inconvenience the fuse 56 workaround caused.
 
This week after leaving the car for a month the battery was completely dead.
 
I've connected a meter and the car draws 900ma when locked initially and then after a minute or so drops to 500ma. Previously it was 30ma
 
I have 2 questions:
 
1) Should an GM3 make a tinkling sound when you shake (or did I buy a duff one off eBay)
 
2) Has any one experienced such a high current draw (remember this is with fuse 56 pulled) and if so can you point me in the right direction tracing the fault.
 
I did try pulling all the fuses and pulling fuse 11 (Servotronic) dropped the draw to 110ma once, but I couldn't recreate this.
 
Thanks in advance
 
Danny

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I thought I knew all the issues an E39 suffers from but this is a new one for me, had a quick read of your linked thread and sounds like a real pain to resolve. Sorry I can't help but be good if you find the culprit and post for future reference.

 

 

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e39liam likes this

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I have made some progress, after lots of investigation I have discovered pulling fuse 4 in the glove box leaves me with less than 20ma draw after 20 minutes.

This fuse is labelled Passenger Comp/Trunk Lighting.

Pulling this fuse stops the interior lights working as expected but also stops the electric driver's seat from being adjusted and brings up Self Levelling Inact (I haven't driven it yet to see if this is actually the case).

My first thought was to replace the Lighting Control Module LCM with one off eBay but am open to suggestions?

Thanks 

Danny

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I have an lcm 4 of interested, it was also removed from a touring and supports a lot more lighting coding options than the 3 does

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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16 hours ago, e34m525i said:

I have an lcm 4 of interested, it was also removed from a touring and supports a lot more lighting coding options than the 3 does

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very kind of you but I have since found out Fuse 4 has nothing to do with the LCM

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I too have a current drain problem, which is being held at bay at the moment by pulling fuse 4. It does disable the interior lights, plus the parking sensors and the SLS system. Every month, or when I couple the caravan, I have to put the fuse back until the suspension has pumped itself up, then pull it out again. Bit of a nuisance but better than a flat battery.  With the fuse in, the drain is 6.7 amps!  God knows where it's going.

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47 minutes ago, syncrofred said:

I too have a current drain problem, which is being held at bay at the moment by pulling fuse 4. It does disable the interior lights, plus the parking sensors and the SLS system. Every month, or when I couple the caravan, I have to put the fuse back until the suspension has pumped itself up, then pull it out again. Bit of a nuisance but better than a flat battery.  With the fuse in, the drain is 6.7 amps!  God knows where it's going.

Then the following might be of interest.

 

I decided to carry out a bodge whilst trying to solve this mystery and was going to fit a relay across Fuse 4 energised by a circuit switched by the ignition switch. Whilst in the process I noticed Fuse 19 wasn't fitted to my car (Electronic Damper Control) and it is only live when the ignition is on, so I wired the always on side of my Fuse 4 to Fuse 19.

The only consequence of this I have noticed so far is that my interior lights and driver's seat adjustment only work when the ignition is on, things I can cope with.

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Interesting bodge, but with 6+ amps going somewhere, I need to find it and sort it. Only surprise is that fuse doesn't blow.

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9 hours ago, syncrofred said:

Interesting bodge, but with 6+ amps going somewhere, I need to find it and sort it. Only surprise is that fuse doesn't blow.

6 amps is a lot.

 

I'm guessing that your driver's seat adjustment is electric, and your steering wheel? If so do all the motors work properly? If not, maybe one is jammed and the memory is trying to adjust it constantly  

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The electric seats and column are still in the garage. Beginning to think I will never get around to fitting them.

So that rules them out as suspects.

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