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Mazi

Will BMW fix my vapor barrier

10 posts in this topic

Done mine twice already and the last time was less than a year and a half ago.

I am loosing my patience with this now.

How much would BMW charge for a job like this or would they tear me a new jobby hole???

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8 hours ago, Mazi said:

Done mine twice already and the last time was less than a year and a half ago.

I am loosing my patience with this now.

How much would BMW charge for a job like this or would they tear me a new jobby hole???

 

As per the other post; use a decent mastic tape (as per the link), take your time and do the job properly and thoroughly (strip all old sealant off, ensure everywhere is thoroughly dry etc) and then reseal and allow the mastic tape to go off before the cars washed and you should be fine

 

That mastic tape is one my father in law recommended as it's highly thought of in the motorhome/caravanning community as it does what it's intended to do and does it very well!

 

IMO, BMW will want one of your kidneys and if they don't do it right, you'll have the PITA experience of trying to get them to rectify it etc

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I used the BMW mastic from the dealers. Butyl tape I think it's called

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Mazi said:

I used the BMW mastic from the dealers. Butyl tape I think it's called

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

It is and it's not that good compared to the tape available via Amazon

 

However, I stand by what I've said and repeated, prep is key!

Carl-e34 likes this

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Don't need it right now but what is that Dan? Can't see the link.

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30 minutes ago, syncrofred said:

Don't need it right now but what is that Dan? Can't see the link.

 

On here pal; third post down

 

 

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I used the BMW mastic from the dealers. Butyl tape I think it's called

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

 

 

That stuff worked for me and if you take it to BMW they'll use it as well. Hard to know why yours hasn't worked after 2 attempts but is the vapour barrier sound?

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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I've been through this too - seal, reseal, reseal ... new butyl tape with heat every timei and once buying a new foam panel. The last time I had a very close look at the fit and think perhaps I've been mispositioning the foam panel just slightly on the door.

 

The door pocket intrudes outward from the car's centerline into the panel & I think over time it has pushed on the vapour barrier panel which causes the butyl tape to creep under constant pull & eventually release. I've always positioned the panel so its seal surface lip was outward, and the edge of the depression in the panel was tight to the door's metal edge - sort of like pulling it tight light a drum. Last time, I moved the panel inward to allow more slack and room for the door pocket to protrude into the door cavity without tensioning the vapour barrier. Not extreme, there was still lots of overlap for the butyl tape to bond to both metal and barrier.

 

It's been less than a year since that last repair so I can't say conclusively this is a solution. But worth a try if you're doing a re-re-reseal.

 

Strange thing is that I've done both rear doors, but only one side has been problematic. Perhaps I did that one side "accidently correct" or it could be that the door card and pocket on the problem side bulges more than the other. I wish I knew.

 

Regards

RDL

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Also one thing mentioning is the small foam ring on the rear inner door handle wire. It works as a water drip and should be positioned under the vapour barrier. If it's not there water will drain on the wire and drip on vapour barrier outer surface and creep on the lower edge. 

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