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3 hours ago, Matthew Ashton said:

I'd think wipers would need to be really bad for them to impact on the noise you hear. 

 

In an early Top Gear where Jezza drove a blue Ferrari to a ski resort he got terrible noise from the wipers, a tech had lent on them and bent them out of shape, but not enough for JC (albeit who has as much technical know how as a potato) to notice what the exact problem was with the wipers was.

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In the 640D the noise is tyre roar (which on 20's is very apparent over poor quality surfaces). That said window down slightly you do notice some *limited* wing mirror noise (same mirror across F01/F06/F10/F11/F12/F13 and I believe even the E60/E61 use the same mirror glass).

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Has anybody had experience of applying any sort of acoustic sound proofing to reduce the road noise that an F10 produces?  I think the vast majority of the noise I am still experiencing is coming from the road/tyres (even though I've just replaced tyres to non run-flat) and I've read that you can apply some Mass Loaded Vinyl etc to the wheel arches or boot etc to reduce this.  Has anybody done this and had any improvements?  How much of a PITA is this likely to be??

 

Cheers

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Yes.  I purchased a box of Dynamat:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dynamat-10455-Xtreme-Bulk-Pack/dp/B00020CB2S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515418259&sr=8-1&keywords=dynamat+extreme

It contains 9 large sheets to put inside the doors, its quite tricky and I ended up using smallish pieces as anything large is a pain to work with, I got as many pieces as I could inside the doors and on the rear of the door cards, I had 2 sheets spare which I used on the boot floor.

The difference is massive and the road roar is virtually eliminated on my F07 with 285/30 rear tyres.

 

Some pictures for you:

 

20170702_114844.jpg

20170610_141455.jpg

20170702_082817.jpg

20170813_185309.jpg

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very interesting!  Thanks for sharing. 

 

From what I've been reading, the best way to reduce noise transmission is to use some closed cell foam along with some Mass Loaded Vinyl...but it seems you've had good results by using the dynamat vibration reduction stuff.

 

Makes me wonder where road noise actually enters the car...if insulating your doors has made such a difference that would suggest that I maybe don't need to bother with the wheel arches or floor etc?

 

 

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The road roar is made worse where there is a large panel, such as a door.  Dynamat works be reducing the vibration in the panels and therefore reduces the noise.  The Dynamat on the door cards was more for sound quality of my new Gladen audio install.

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I think I'll give what you've done a go then....maybe start with the boot and then the doors.

 

Looking at your pictures, it looks like you've had to peel back some existing insulation material (?) to get to the metal frames of the doors.  Is that the case and if so, how did you do it and how did you get things back together again? (I'd hate to pull bits off the car that I couldn't easily put back without it looking like a dog's dinner :-)

 

Thanks

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1 hour ago, RSharp said:

I think I'll give what you've done a go then....maybe start with the boot and then the doors.

 

Looking at your pictures, it looks like you've had to peel back some existing insulation material (?) to get to the metal frames of the doors.  Is that the case and if so, how did you do it and how did you get things back together again? (I'd hate to pull bits off the car that I couldn't easily put back without it looking like a dog's dinner :-)

 

Thanks

 

The membrane has to be pulled back on each door. It’s held onto the door with non setting mastic, so just run a Stanley knife down the mastic to part the membrane, I only went 2/3 down and was careful not to disturb the bottom of the membrane as that is the moisture seal. The membrane will simply stick back onto the door as long as you’ve kept the mastic clean and dry. 

I did this last summer and have had no issues with water or moisture entering the cabin. 

The hard part is removing the door cards. Make sure you buy ten spare clips from your dealer as you will break some, and only use plastic trim tools bought from Amazon or similar. 

 

Let me me know if you need more pictures, I have loads. 

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On 11/16/2017 at 11:55 PM, SuperDave said:

HK system helps in all regards. 

 

I agree there is a lot of tyre noise and very little of anything else. I have fixed the tyre noise in the same way Dave has :lol:

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drove the new 5 series the other week and it was much quieter (engine and road noise) so they've obviously put a lot more effort into that aspect of the new car....apparently some more sound deadening in the roof liner and some kind of acoustic hood for the engine. (its got exactly the same diesel engine code as my 2016 5 series but is considerably quieter under acceleration).

 

Anybody done any sound insulation on the roof liner or under the bonnet that makes any difference?

 

R.

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4 hours ago, Retset said:

 

I agree there is a lot of tyre noise and very little of anything else. I have fixed the tyre noise in the same way Dave has :lol:

I’ve gone one better and installed a custom system with 6 channel amp, ten speakers with two 8” subs. 

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How does it compare to the HK system?

 

For my money the preLCI professional hifi (DIRAC) was a little bit better than the HK system that replaced it. 

 

All said and done the stock vw sound in my wifes Tiguan is 80-90% as good as the HK in f10, which is kind of embarrassing. 

 

Im toying with upgrading the front HK components in my f10 to Focal units. 

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I am very pleased with it as most of my music is bass heavy and it never sounds boomy or distorted. 

My sons old Audi A2 has a better stereo than my £57k 5GT had before the upgrade. Very embarrassing. 

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I upgraded my previous e60 with a 5ch amp, couple of earthquake subs underseat and components up front - massive improvement. 

Its just a pity the potential from factory is so poorly utilised as standard. 

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I'm pleased with my HK. It's not as good as I expected but it's good enough for me to enjoy listening to music. Pity it took 5,000 miles till I found settings I liked!

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You guys realise this is a car right ???

 

removing door panels and wrapping bits in sound deadening seems a little bit precious 

 

turn the stereo up or your hearing aid down 

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Mine was only a year old when I pulled the door panels off. The fact is that if you are careful it will actually go back together just as good. I get no rattles or creaks at all. 

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I pulled the panels off my E91 when I uprated the risible standard stereo. All went backs together with no creaks or rattles. At least, I think so ... couldn't hear over the music :lol:

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10 hours ago, Paulo said:

 

removing door panels and wrapping bits in sound deadening seems a little bit precious 

But you've never done it or heard the results yourself, im guessing?  

 

I also change my oil earlier than recommended. :ph34r:

Edited by SuperDave

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10 hours ago, Paulo said:

 

 

removing door panels and wrapping bits in sound deadening seems a little bit precious 

 

 

 

I'm guessing you would never do this to your car then:

 

 

 

20170702_070952.thumb.jpg.3dfcdcfd50629d3eb66a9540836f9cf0.jpg

 

20170702_094429.thumb.jpg.9eca0d9568f68b7eb2c938ae41b6e0f2.jpg

 

 

 

 

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So....just finished putting some silent coat 2mm vibroderm and closed cell foam on the insides of all my doors....sadly still quite a lot of road noise and I’m not hearing a big difference. Had a look at the wheel arches to see if I could fit sound dampening panels there but couldn’t see how to get into them or where I could apply so kinda gave up on that but still think that must make a difference if I could figure it out...??.

 

Still got to do the boot but I’m stuck with what else I can do as getting access to the firewall etc seems a real nightmare.

 

anybody got any experience on these areas or knows where else the noise would be entering the car from on an f10??

 

txs

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