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RyanBuck

Glow plug broken in engine!!

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The WD 40 I used was this WD-40 Specialist Fast Release Penetrant  not the standard type, I did not have any problems using this over the four days in fact evaporation was negligible, and each glow plug was about 10-12 mm deep in the fluid, I was suprised myself how it does not evaporate with the heat of the cylinder head, so there was no question that this would self combust with heat it received, although I would not use the standard WD40 I believe that is flammable at least with a naked flame, any concerns choose a different brand of  penetrating fluid the one I used was just the one Halfords stocked, I'm sure others brands may work equally as well.

 

If I get a chance I will carry out a test by heating up the WD-40 Specialist Fast Release Penetrant in a metal container with a mapp gas torch, the only problem I forsee is I would be using a aked flame around the fluid which is not the same as just heating as it would when applied around the glow plugs.

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On 09/07/2017 at 8:13 PM, RyanBuck said:

Ok guys another day having a look at this issue and no joy.

 

The glow plug is snapped far down in to the port and the threads are damaged.

 

My only way would be to drill out but I have no way to stop the shot from falling into the cylinder causing damaged to the bore in time.

 

I had got another tec round to have a little look and he had also confirmed sometimes you can drill tap but this one looks beyond this, really not having a lot of joy here.

 

I think I am left with no choose but to remove the cylinder head and get the head sent away.

 

I had a look online TIS but I can't see if the engine needs to come out for the head removal or if it can be done in place?

 

The reason I ask is all the timing chain and gears are at the back against the fire wall which I can't see any access to setup timing etc etc?

 

Any info guys?

Can't you pack around the area you want to drill with something like blue tac or similar to stop swarf falling into the cylinder. Only drill 1/2 down and use easy outs?

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Hi guys, I will keep this post live with my progress and pictures to help people if they have the same issue.

 

My timing kit for the N57s engine has been ordered and will be with me ready for the weekend 

 

I will update then guys.

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3 hours ago, RyanBuck said:

Hi guys, I will keep this post live with my progress and pictures to help people if they have the same issue.

 

My timing kit for the N57s engine has been ordered and will be with me ready for the weekend 

 

I will update then guys.

 

I would be v interested to see the pics.

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Just now, Matthew Ashton said:

Great, the anticipation builds. Don't forget to take pics of the job as I can see loads for us to learn from your endeavours.

Hi Matthew, of coruse no worries.

I am sure I can do this no problem as I do this day in day out lol.

 

I have the inlet removed showing the ext/int ports with the swirl flaps, I think you guys might be shocked to see how badly gumed up these are for s engine that's only covered 70k!!

 

pics tomorrow.

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Good luck with this. Like ChrisCoz I'd wondered about using Easyouts but don't think I'd have the balls to try freehand drilling the old plug. Unless there's plenty of plug sticking out of the cylinder head of course?

Sounds like you're sorted with the tools and determination now though!

 

Sent from my Vodafone Smart ultra 6 using Tapatalk

 

 

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48 minutes ago, Matthew Ashton said:

Great, the anticipation builds. Don't forget to take pics of the job as I can see loads for us to learn from your endeavours.

 

+1 on that. It's a proper oily bit job, working with components that are designed and machined to fractions of millimetres.

 

 I've only ever had to do brakes and suspension work on my BMWs, which is ok but it's not oily or technical enough for my yearnings.....

 

Just don't put the photos on photobucket!

 

Oh and good luck with it all Ryan.

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3 minutes ago, pidgeonpost said:

I'd wondered about using Easyouts but don't think I'd have the balls to try freehand drilling the old plug.

 

You really wouldn't want to do that, one false move and you're on the phone to the dealer inquiring about how long the lead time is for a new cylinder head whilst working out which kidney you are going to put on eBay to pay for it all. Or is that because like you my balls aren't big enough?

 

Once the head is off and on a table (best not to use the one in the dining room for ease of domestic harmony) to get the broken bit of plug out should be relatively easy. 

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You really wouldn't want to do that, one false move and you're on the phone to the dealer inquiring about how long the lead time is for a new cylinder head whilst working out which kidney you are going to put on eBay to pay for it all. Or is that because like you my balls aren't big enough?

 

Once the head is off and on a table (best not to use the one in the dining room for ease of domestic harmony) to get the broken bit of plug out should be relatively easy. 

Yes, one of the company vids showed a guy drilling freehand with a cordless drill. A better man than me Gunga Din.

 

Sent from my Vodafone Smart ultra 6 using Tapatalk

 

 

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I have to admit guys I have repaired a few heads my self etc but this one I might send the head to a specialist so it can be drilled and sleeved the have a untrsonic bath etc. 

 

trouble with common tail heads is the design of the glow plugs now with the tapered end, they are like a valve and need to seat correct etc.

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25 minutes ago, RyanBuck said:

I have to admit guys I have repaired a few heads my self etc but this one I might send the head to a specialist so it can be drilled and sleeved the have a untrsonic bath etc. 

 

trouble with common tail heads is the design of the glow plugs now with the tapered end, they are like a valve and need to seat correct etc.

 

that makes perfect sense. Send it off for the fine engineering bit.

 

Are the threads tapered too or is it just the extreme end that seats in a taper? 

 

I'm just very interested.

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8 hours ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

that makes perfect sense. Send it off for the fine engineering bit.

 

Are the threads tapered too or is it just the extreme end that seats in a taper? 

 

I'm just very interested.

Hi Andrew, no the threads are standard, it's just the ends of the glow plugs are valve like seated.

 

Due to common rail being able to use much higher pressure injectors and rail this means the engine can run at a lot higher compression ratio, this is the reason for a good seat and seal on the glow plugs.

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Thanks Ryan

 

I was thinking the threads might be tapered too, to get extra sealing to help against the higher compression but would make diy removal harder.

 

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1 hour ago, pidgeonpost said:

Looks like a standard thread but a conical seat if you Google for images of them.

 

Did that and found this thread on how to remove a stuck plug.  He drills out the centre of the plug, cuts a thread in it, screws in a bolt with washers and a nut so that washers press on cylinder head then tightens nut to pull the plug out of the head.  

 

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-remove-Broken-Glow-Plugs/

 

Don't think I would try that on an expensive engine!

Edited by 535i Andrew

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1 hour ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

Did that and found this thread on how to remove a stuck plug.  He drills out the centre of the plug, cuts a thread in it, screws in a bolt with washers and a nut so that washers press on cylinder head then tightens nut to pull the plug out of the head.  

 

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-remove-Broken-Glow-Plugs/

 

Don't think I would try that on an expensive engine!

Ya I might try this on my shitty 08 focus but not my f11 lol

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Hi guys, got a few more pics.

I am in no rush for the car so bear with me guys as i will only do little by little.

 

this is the inlet manifold with the new style swirl flaps.

 

The engine runs sweet as a nut and will out power most things on the road, in fact it would give my e61 M5 a good run for its money!

 

how ever only covered 70k and look at the carbon build up!

 

so shocked!

 

really might look at an EGR delete!

 

 

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Edited by RyanBuck

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That is really dreadful for an inlet manifold. Makes you wonder how much worse it is down into the head, BUT, you will find out soon.

 

Really keen to follow this thread like many others have said.

 

Good luck Ryan sir.........

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5 minutes ago, nashdm2 said:

That is really dreadful for an inlet manifold. Makes you wonder how much worse it is down into the head, BUT, you will find out soon.

 

Really keen to follow this thread like many others have said.

 

Good luck Ryan sir.........

Hi Nashdm2, yes very shocked!

 

pics of inlet to follow tomorrow..

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This link is also very interesting

 

VIDEO

 

this shows how to delete the EGR valve value to 0.00

 

this could help with all our carbon build up.

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i dont think thats turning it off, thats just resetting the position after an EGR change or removal/reinstallation.

 

a full EGR delete would need to be done by altering the DDE module to not actuate it.

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