dwaynos

535d seems slow

54 posts in this topic

Well my car is on 206k and was never replace so that's should give you an idea bud.. Also double check you vac pipe routing and make sure it in the right place

 

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I'm pretty certain the vac pipes are correct. They were all original, I had to slice them with a Stanley to allow me to get them off without breaking any connectors. Will check them anyway, thanks for the tip.

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Don't tempt me. When I'm just keeping up with astras,  I'm surprised I haven't done it already 

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I'm pretty certain the vac pipes are correct. They were all original, I had to slice them with a Stanley to allow me to get them off without breaking any connectors. Will check them anyway, thanks for the tip.

Mine was all original too but was fitted in the wrong location

 

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Interesting, I'll definitely be taking a look at that. Does anybody have a diagram of where it all goes to?

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My point earlier in the thread dwaynos...start randomly replacing parts without proper understanding or without checking with correct software could cost a fortune and a lot of time...you may hit lucky to be fair....Ive seen so many on a few different forums try everything because these cars rarely run 100%.

some people do actually enjoy doing this themselves,so if that's you the fair enough,you will get a million suggestions and somebody will get it eventually..me personally,I use a trusted specialist who is in my opinion "shit hot" as somebody posted when I was looking for a good specialist in the sunny north east "keeps my BMW running at Mondeo money"

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I see your point there but, I do understand how the car works, its not a fighter jet. The pipework looks correct from when I changed them, I developed a deaper understanding of the system when I replaced them, however, double checking the routing would be a good start, Im not asking people to diagnose my car, just asking opinions, the thread was originally opened to ask owner's advice and to find out if my car is running normally as it seems to drive well just not as powerful as the hype would suggest. Specialists have access to diagrams, if anybody would like to share one with me it would be much appreciated. Otherwise I'll just go about it like I do any other car I work on every day of my life. They always leave the workshop working perfectly.

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Yep I would start with a diagram of did use really oem but as said I just took to my indy to sort out

 

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4 hours ago, Rcaddicted said:

Yep I would start with a diagram of did use really oem but as said I just took to my indy to sort out

 

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L31 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Predictive text LOL. He ment for diagrams, try putting your vehicle details in at realoem.com

 

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Checked them earlier. They are all in the right spot. I'll be checking everything with a vacuum tester when I get a little time spare 

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Predictive text LOL. He ment for diagrams, try putting your vehicle details in at realoem.com

 

I know bloody hate it.. But never check what I've written..

 

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You're a mechanic? 

 

If so, easy stuff for you to do (if you haven't already)- 

-Check the car is reaching its target boost pressure (and reaching it at the target rpm, ie not full boost @ 4000rpm but under 2000rpm, maybe even 1500rpm).

-Pressure test the pipework

-Compression test the cylinders

-Do an injector leak down test

-Buy a scanner (C110, iirc?) - it'll read codes and I think it also does some of the tests, like injector smooth running test. At worst, you can use it on other cars you service/work on. 

 

Start basic, work methodically, and you will fix the issue:) 

Chu likes this

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I find my car is a lot faster if i turn off the DTC and of course put it in sport mode. The main thing being the DTC, I know you get warning lights when it is doing something but you don't always notice it when you're mid raceing pulling sedately away from a set of lights ;)

I just find the car is much quicker because a rear wheel maybe spinning but not enough to break traction or leave tyre smoke, but of course when the DTC cuts in it's like someone  has turned the engine off

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It's not so much pulling from the lights that is an issue. Just done a few 0-60 runs using both the idrive stopwatch and GPS acceleration app. The idrive stopwatch only measures whole seconds so hardly accurate, the GPS app clicks when 60 is reached. So I get the click just after 60 and stop the stopwatch at 60. The idrive shows 6 secs, could be anywhere in-between 6 and 7 but the app showed 6.1. Seems pretty accurate as it clicked just after 60 on speedo. In which case my car is not as slow as I thought. I think I just don't want to accept that other cars like mentioned in the OP are almost as quick when up and rolling. 

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They definitely aren't the rocket ship that some make out they are....but and it's a big but,they do and always will leave an Astra 2.0cdti quite easily.

like I said,it's as quick as a standard hot hatch..focus,Astra vxr Megan and sort of thing...it just feels different.i love the torquey feel of a diesel personally.

with DTC completely disabled..(keep your finger on till it disables) for those that didn't realise,the car truly comes alive.aslong as you control the throttle and don't just plant then the power is quite impressive for a two tonne diesel 

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Yes I will agree it's impressive given its weight etc. I have yet to come across a hot hatch that doesn't have a lunatic driver that I can have a safe go with. 

I think I need convincing to spend the £900 at ecotune and release the monster from its chains, somebody convince me please. :rolleyes:

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You must be attracting the wrong kind of crowd :D.  Your problem is related to the dpf code. The turbos are spooling quickly because there is no dpf and no back pressure. They may be over spooling and unable to maintain boost which is lost via waste gate. The car needs to be mapped to take this into consideration.

Edited by jake13

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What does £900 get you ?  Bhp and torque wise I mean..

if I remember rightly the specialist I use quotes about £200 ish for 320-340 bhp maybe an extra 60-100 nm torque increase but don't quote me on that

he also said for a few more pounds without exact figures it could easily be raised to 400bhp and 700NM torque

must admit it sounds like fun but I'm in no rush..would mean a dpf delete for sure and I'd imagine you would need a

vetter cooling system..I could be wildly wrong though

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3 minutes ago, jake13 said:

You must be attracting the wrong kind of crowd :D.  Your problem is related to the dpf code. The turbos are spooling quickly because there is no dpf and no back pressure. They may be over spooling and unable to maintain boost which is lost via waste gate. The car needs to be mapped to this into consideration.

This sounds quite likely actually,or atleat it makes sense in my head

Edited by Steve AD

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900 gets you the dpf delete pipe, and the software. On the website it shows 380bhp and 730nm torque. I like the idea of using ecotune, they have a really good reputation but parting with 900 if I don't really have to hurts a bit. 

I was planning on making my own downpipe but ecotune will only remove the dpf on the software of they supply the hardware.

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8 minutes ago, dwaynos said:

900 gets you the dpf delete pipe, and the software. On the website it shows 380bhp and 730nm torque. I like the idea of using ecotune, they have a really good reputation but parting with 900 if I don't really have to hurts a bit. 

I was planning on making my own downpipe but ecotune will only remove the dpf on the software of they supply the hardware.

 

I've been looking at this kit for my 530d also

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25 minutes ago, Steve AD said:

What does £900 get you ?  Bhp and torque wise I mean..

if I remember rightly the specialist I use quotes about £200 ish for 320-340 bhp maybe an extra 60-100 nm torque increase but don't quote me on that

he also said for a few more pounds without exact figures it could easily be raised to 400bhp and 700NM torque

must admit it sounds like fun but I'm in no rush..would mean a dpf delete for sure and I'd imagine you would need a

vetter cooling system..I could be wildly wrong though

 

400BHP and 700Nm is perfectly possible with a DPF delete but the turbos and fuel system MUST be in good condition in order to support it. There are stage 1 (360) and stage 2 (400) graphs in my signature that show the differences.

Edited by Mashed Potatoes

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From what I can gather from other threads, blobby has the ecotune kit on his 535d and swears by it, he likes having his head snapped off by both the torque and the wife:D. Hopefully he can throw his 2 pence in on this one. 

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There was or is a guy called Simon,emaps I think his business was called.he had a huge following and everyone had nothing but good things to say about him..these weren't generic maps but ones he made over the course of an hour or two with your car..this was a while ago but worth a look..around £350-400 if I remember right

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