Tbob

Any good install guides/vids for adding amp to base F11?

76 posts in this topic

I'm about to get a Gladen 201 Extreme / Mosconi 120.4 system for the 13 plate 530d Touring I'm picking up Friday and I wonder if anyone can point me to a good install guide for this.

 

I've found good resources for replacing the speakers and getting the head unit out but nothing for how to go about fitting the amp and how/where to run the harness/loom from the head unit back to the amp in the boot.

 

Can anyone point me to a good step by step install guide for this please? Thanks.

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I did the whole Gladen extreme set up in my e60, its exactly the same for the f10 and f11. what you need is the Mosconi Quadlock 2 channel which plugs behind the stereo along with the cars existing quadlock ( its all plug and play) run the group of cables to the back which will have RCA, and speaker cables,

for the under seat woofer I ran separate cables along the side of the car as the existing BMW cabling is very thin for the subs, and wired.

 

http://www.teamspb.co.uk/product-p/2channel5ql.htm

 

very easy it took me about an hour to install it the amp, do the wiring.

 

I was going to for the same set up in my F10 but I settled for the Focal speakers alone, which for now sound much better then the paper cones which come as standard.

 

 

 

 

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Tbob, I have a 4channel quad lock 5m loom for sale if interested. I bought it for my install and did not use it as I made my own loom. Drop me a PM if interested. 

 

 

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I did the whole Gladen extreme set up in my e60, its exactly the same for the f10 and f11. what you need is the Mosconi Quadlock 2 channel which plugs behind the stereo along with the cars existing quadlock ( its all plug and play) run the group of cables to the back which will have RCA, and speaker cables,

for the under seat woofer I ran separate cables along the side of the car as the existing BMW cabling is very thin for the subs, and wired.

 

http://www.teamspb.co.uk/product-p/2channel5ql.htm

 

very easy it took me about an hour to install it the amp, do the wiring.

 

I was going to for the same set up in my F10 but I settled for the Focal speakers alone, which for now sound much better then the paper cones which come as standard.

 

 

 

 

 

Hi s29uny,

What speakers did you use to replace the standard speakers, do you have a link to where you got them?

 

Cheers

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in the E60 I replaced with Gladen extreme 201 with at the time it was the mosconi 120.4 dsp

in the F10 I replaced just the 4 inch doors and added tweeters in the wings of the door: https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/focal-ifbmw-s-4-10cm-2-way-component-car-speakers-for-bmw.html

 

Cheapest place I could find them, they are direct replacements, no cutting needed.

 

If you have the base system ( no tweeters in the doors) you can buy the tweeter covers from Ebay for £20 saves you from having to drill any holes.

 

I would also invest in some sound deadening. the focal speakers are surprisingly good for the size of them.

 

i've attached some pictures of what mine looked like and the speaker differences.

 

As a guide to taking the doors off: if you search Bavsound F10 stage one install on youtube. They show you a very detailed step by step :D

before.jpg

after.jpg

speakers.jpg

Edited by s29uny
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I wouldn't bother with eBay for the sails for the A pillars, I bought mine direct from Cotswold BMW for £14 each delivered   

I also used some sound deadening, in my case I used Dynamat in the same way as pictured above. 

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Just the thread I was after!

 

My car does not have the tweeters and I am finding the sound in my car a mix of booming indistinctive bass, aggressive mid range and little detail. I am keen on doing a simple, painless upgrade to the speakers. I do not have separate tweeters, which I would prefer (I had the HK set up in my X5 and the high fidelity difference between the two set ups is very noticeable) so can you run the tweeters from the door speakers (similar to a Alpine set up it put in my old 306 GTi6 track day car) or do they need to be run separately with the dynamic sound set up?

 

Thanks in advance 

 

RC

 

 

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Thanks for the advice S29uny

 

I have a Mosconi D2 and Gladen extreme system with all the looms and little extra bits I need being delivered this week from TeamSPB so hopefully will get stuck in this weekend and will keep you posted!

 

 

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Wow, I hope teamSPB appreciates all the business I'm putting his way!

 

Have you purchased any Dynamat?

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No - Amar said he really didn't think it was worth doing in the 5 series as the doors are so heavy. He's said he's done with and done without and in his opinion not worth the bother as any difference is basically imperceptible...

 

 

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I don't agree.  It has made a difference putting Dynamat in mine in just one door so far.  I thought whilst the door cards are off, I may as well apply some Dynamat for an extra ten minutes of time.

Edited by E39touring

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I agree with E39Touring. sound deadening makes all the difference, over time parts of the panel started to vibrate and it becomes sooo annoying.

 

while the doors are off I would deaden them. saves you from having to check them later.

 

I wish I had taken my extreme set up out my E60 it sounded soo good, I was really hoping to pick up a F10 with a good sound system. clearly a mistake 'll not be making again.

 

Best of Luck Tbob. be great to see some pictures of how you get on

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On 14/06/2017 at 2:17 PM, Tbob said:

Thanks for the advice S29uny

 

I have a Mosconi D2 and Gladen extreme system with all the looms and little extra bits I need being delivered this week from TeamSPB so hopefully will get stuck in this weekend and will keep you posted!

 

 

Any progress today?

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It just arrived today - got delayed in customs apparently.

 

First impressions... oh sh!t... thought it was going to be a bit more plug and play and complete than it is. Looks like I'm going to need various battery and speaker connectors for a start. 
 

Honestly wondering if I have bitten off more than I can chew here with no install guide - not sure on the best place to put everything etc - it would help to see a vid of someone else's install so I know what I am actually aiming for. And batteries seem to have got a lot more complicated since my 2003 320d with power distribution etc - I admit I haven't actually even found the battery yet although only had a quick 1 min look!.Loads of vids on youtube for replacing the f10 battery but none for F11...

 

Have you done your install E39? I seem to remember you ordered basically the same kit? 

 

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post some pictures of what you have, I am sure we can puts our heads together and talk you though what needs to be done.

 

the battery located in the roof under the carpet will have several empty studs which you can attach the power cable to, and finding a good earth point will be fairly simple too.

 

 

 

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OK thanks - I will take some pics and post.

As a starting point I am trying to wire the fuse - and i'm afraid I'm stumped even at that. I can see how it all goes together - but I can't see how I can tighten the connector on the second end as it will be inside the plastic case which doesn't seem to open!

See pic which I hope shows what I mean...
 

IMG_3875.jpg

 

 

off to pick up son from school - back in 40 mins or so

Edited by Tbob

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12 minutes ago, Tbob said:

OK thanks - I will take some pics and post.

As a starting point I am trying to wire the fuse - and i'm afraid I'm stumped even at that. I can see how it all goes together - but I can't see how I can tighten the connector on the second end as it will be inside the plastic case which doesn't seem to open!

See pic which I hope shows what I mean...
 

IMG_3875.jpg

 

 

off to pick up son from school - back in 40 mins or so

 

You should have two plastic screw type caps which hold the fuse together in the middle.

 

Needs to look like the picture I has attached.

 Be sure to tighten the Allen key which holds the fuse together - if its left loose then it can play a part in voltage drop or worse no voltage at all.

 

Then all there is left to do is have the fuse siting in line of the power cable ideally as close as you can to the battery ( about 6-12inch's away) and that's your fuse wired to the live.

 

When you wire it all together, its best practice to leave the live connection to the battery til last. Otherwise you have a live cable sparking off the body work discharging your battery. Just have it run to the battery work out where you will attach, but leave it to last.

fuse.jpg

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Thanks - I've got the 2 plastic caps but that isn't the issue, and I understand how it should look when completed.

 

My problem is, If you look at the pic I posted, imagine the fuse and connectors in the same position but inside the plastic part, the question is then - how do you tighten the connector on the right side of the fuse, because it is inside the plastic and therefore unreachable...

 

 

 

 

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Here's a another pic of it put together - but the connector on the right side of the fuse has not been tightened - and as you can see, no way to get at it to tighten it..

 

Edited by Tbob

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One more showing it wired up with the 2 plastic caps - but still stuck on how to tighten the right side fuse connector when it is inside the plastic cover...

IMG_3877.jpg

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I wondering if the answer is, you don't tighten it? Just adjust it to the right spot so that "U" end of the fuse can just push under it ?

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I'll look when I get home as I have the same fuse. Back soon

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Ok, so it looks to me like you leave the screw just lose enough to slide the fuse under the screw. With mine when you tighten the end caps it clamps the fuse between the two metal parts, so the screws are largely irrelevant. Not a great design though. 

What other bits are you struggling with?  Do you have a small loom about 8" long?  Do you know where that goes?  I figured it all out and am half way through the install. 

 

Its not plug and play as I had to join the cables to the amp loom and I had to cut the door cards to make the speakers fit, but that may not be the case on the F10/11, remember mine is a F07. 

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