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Azmontana

BMW E34 M5 S38B36 Restoration

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I’m helping a mate replace the rear jacking points/sills on this B10 BiTurbo. He bought new panels for both sides from BMW, hopefully it will make life a lot easier. His aren’t too badly rotted, most of the rust is around the jacking points themselves, the panels behind are in fairly good shape. We will have to do a little fabrication but nothing too taxing fortunately. Good luck with it. 

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Been having trouble getting onto any thread on the forum through taptalk, so I posted this up on the m5board, if anyone is able to help source parts that would be much appreciated.

 

I’m currently in the process of repairing the sills. While removing the carpet and seats I decided I’d finally get round to restoring the leather but also repairing the thigh support on the drivers seat. It’s never worked. 

So I started with diagnostics trying a working switch, checking the wiring had power and all checked out no noise from the motor. 

I stripped it out to find this. Looks like the plastic gearing was damaged meaning the motor seized up and burnt out trying to operate. 

Anyone know where I can get a replacement gear? And know where I can get a new motor and this one is toast and isn’t showing up on parts list. 

ce14ffcaaacdce2e9e8c9b57b0ff5aa4.jpg346eda91c28dc4209c8a03f878da709a.jpg202eb67409d1c3deb394ee7d8a02da12.jpg

Oh and here’s a before and after of the passenger seat restoration. 

21cb5b19c731e8ce9466f7f0f464e288.jpgb3eeeb5f6b791316b0f5ca6bdc23c335.jpgfcbf1e060fc2306daf335c417acd32c6.jpg8ec8b7658d2669a06e0d1f02036dc1fa.jpg

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2 hours ago, Azmontana said:

Been having trouble getting onto any thread on the forum through taptalk, so I posted this up on the m5board, if anyone is able to help source parts that would be much appreciated.

 

I’m currently in the process of repairing the sills. While removing the carpet and seats I decided I’d finally get round to restoring the leather but also repairing the thigh support on the drivers seat. It’s never worked. 

So I started with diagnostics trying a working switch, checking the wiring had power and all checked out no noise from the motor. 

I stripped it out to find this. Looks like the plastic gearing was damaged meaning the motor seized up and burnt out trying to operate. 

Anyone know where I can get a replacement gear? And know where I can get a new motor and this one is toast and isn’t showing up on parts list. 

ce14ffcaaacdce2e9e8c9b57b0ff5aa4.jpg346eda91c28dc4209c8a03f878da709a.jpg202eb67409d1c3deb394ee7d8a02da12.jpg

Oh and here’s a before and after of the passenger seat restoration. 

21cb5b19c731e8ce9466f7f0f464e288.jpgb3eeeb5f6b791316b0f5ca6bdc23c335.jpgfcbf1e060fc2306daf335c417acd32c6.jpg8ec8b7658d2669a06e0d1f02036dc1fa.jpg

 

 

 The seats look wonderful .... great work !

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On 12/11/2017 at 5:01 PM, Azmontana said:

Rust free!

ACE1F2BF-FC9C-4E0B-815D-1ABF49AF9F2D.jpeg

 

Pretty much the route I went down recently. Unfortunately when the throttle pedal came off in my hand I knew it would be a bit more involved...

 

I fully removed the dummy floors on both sides for better access.

 

I trust you've been taking measurements as needed. Very important for the lower section of wing to line up correctly.

 

20170815_184815.jpg

 

 

 

20170920_213657.jpg

 

 

Out of interest, how are you going to do the jacking point strengthener and your drainage. Also what are you planning to seal/underseal  it with? 

 

 

20170810_185015.jpg

 

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I've taken measurements but i'm mainly using the straight edge of the existing lower sill as a guide and before final welding will use the wing as a guide to make sure its all in line.

 

I've got some ideas for the jacking point but not started that fabrication work just trying to fab all the inner parts first,  i've kept all the cut outs and these should be of use. My final jacking point was completely shot so I don't actually know what it looks like as a complete unit so I'm hoping the passengers side is a bit better.  

 

For welding I'm using upol copper weld primer. For sealing i'll probably use stone chip then maybe hammerite and treat with wax oil. I'll be using dynax s-50 to treat all the inner sill parts before welding the sill cover back on.

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On 11/14/2017 at 10:41 PM, FIVE-OH said:

 

Pretty much the route I went down recently. Unfortunately when the throttle pedal came off in my hand I knew it would be a bit more involved...

 

I fully removed the dummy floors on both sides for better access.

 

I trust you've been taking measurements as needed. Very important for the lower section of wing to line up correctly.

 

20170815_184815.jpg

 

 

 

20170920_213657.jpg

 

 

Out of interest, how are you going to do the jacking point strengthener and your drainage. Also what are you planning to seal/underseal  it with? 

 

 

20170810_185015.jpg

 

 

So i've done a bulk of the work but now comes the jacking point it self. After throughly reviewing the shapes and looking at picture online of what this actually looks like i've come to the conclusion this this is far too complex to make. It would be possible by making multiple pieces and welding but this would take a long time and I wouldn't trust its integrity.

 

So i'm on the hunt for clean jacking points for both sides of the front. Anyone have these spare? FiveOh what did you do for these parts?

 

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Well it seems you've come across one of the more tricky issues with this repair. 

 

Forget getting someone in to do it. You can diy if you got this far.

 

You are unlikely the get the strengtheners separate from the panel anywhere and from experience your not likely to need that particular panel unless the corrosion is extensive or impact damaged.

 

Replacing the A post frame complete means you interfere with the door hinge alignment, so there is a need to be very accurate with fitting this panel so as to.get the door gaps correct. So along with the cost, its just not worth the aggro imo.

 

For the jacking points, i cut and shut some spare rear strengtheners to suit the shape of the front items. Effectively, cutting out and rebuilding the corroded sections of the originals. The n/s came out quite well but the o/s which was generally worse, not quiet so good.  I did have to compromise slightly from original.  I also did away with the hole directly under the jack point.

 

You don't have to 'copy' the exact design of strengthener and although the rear ones are similar, they are of a different shape in profile and width. 

 

The thickness of the steel for the strengthening point is also as you might expect thicker at 11-12 guage (2.5-3mm) so its possible to make up something to suit. It can look whatever since no one is ever going to see it once you close it up. Whatever you do it must extend down and parallel to the fitted level of the lower horizontal sill. I also put a spot of weld either side at the rear where the strengtheners meet and abutt the inner sill. This helps by stopping the bracket folding in on itself. 

 

From this... 

 

20170627_183539.jpg

 

To this...

 

20170704_185734.jpg

 

A bit of jiggery pokery gets this...

 

20170704_211738.jpg

 

On the car

 

20170726_191400.jpg

 

Ready for closing up.

 

20170726_191533.jpg

 

 

Plenty of measuring and trial fitting is in order. Avoid cutting too close to the top curve of the sill as this may lead to the need of excessive filling work once ground off to get the shape right. Only cut as high as you need to eliminate rust.

 

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Thanks fiveoh as you can see from my pic I had to cut quite high up the strengthener to repair the inner sill. I think the only solution is to buy the a-pillar and cut it. It’s a £250 part each. 

 

i agree replacing the a-pillar is way too much hassle. 

 

 

B442D3BE-C829-4C2B-8095-B4D477DC665F.jpeg

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Hmmm 

 

£250 per side is an awful lot of money for essentially 2 pieces of curved metal that could be constructed from 3mm sheet. Simply not cost effective and good money that can be spent elsewhere on the car. 

 

I would at least attempt it, even if not confident.  Make it up out of cardboard and sticky tape to get something similar in shape and roughly to scale and use that as your template. It doesn't matter if it has to be formed like a box and it should be even stronger thst way. I really don't think you need to purchase anything more but it's entirely up to you. 

 

One last thing. It seems that you consider the rear sills to be serviceable.  Looking at the state of the front sections its likely that there will be some corrosion in the rears also. It would be annoying to say the least, to do all that repair work only to find the rears do need doing further down the road.  All imo btw.

 

Good luck and dont hesitate to ask if any more info is required.

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Hi yeh I’ve cut the rear section to see the condition of the jacking points and they are fine. 

 

I think im being too obsessive about replicating the Bmw jacking point. Being thick metal it would be very difficult to replicate. I think I’ll have to come up with my own design and go from there. 

 

I’ll post my progress. 

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Based on the cost of new jacking points I decided at making this myself. Having no reference of what it actually looks like apart from pictures it seems to fit well including once the sill is in place. 

 

Pic shows it it being held with a magnet for now will weld it in properly once I’ve sealed, painted and treated the previous work behind it. 

 

 

923BEDE7-5182-4573-8851-541303ACEE2E.jpeg

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What suspension options are available for the m5? Anyone recommend a good setup. Not after coil over but I do want a nice stance. I’m after a good road setup. Any advice would be great. 

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Is anyone on this forum? ;)

 

Still looking for a suspension setup. Currently has a b12 kit from bilstein looking to replace this with the same kit. Can’t seem to find the kit bilstein only does it up to the 535i doesn’t seem to do one for the m5? Did they stop making it for m5?

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The B12 kit is a lovely set up ... eibach springs with bilstein b8 dampers .... We have those on our 540/6 ....

 Bilstein have cut back with their stock in recent months ... You can no longer purchase the gland nuts ( front  locating collars for their front B8's)

 unless you purchase another pair of B8's.

 I'm not sure about the weight of the M5 unit .... But could you not use the 535 kit ?

Edited by ustbutler

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Suspension on the back burner now. 

 

With the little time I have I’ve finished the repair work on one side. 

 

Started the other side. The rust wasn’t as much thankfully so this shouldn’t take to long to complete. 

 

I really need to find more time to complete this car :(

 

 

 

DA15D76D-9EEA-4649-9D48-672BCF9C30E1.jpeg

EFD1C412-D9D2-4B56-97C1-973C54239033.jpeg

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