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Guys, your opinions please? 

 

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This is not my advert, but a car that i'm looking at, and as it's my first ///M car, i'd like some advice please. 

This seems like a decent enough car, although a few more miles than i'm comfortable with. 

 

Thanks

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I wouldn't be too worried about the miles depending on the maintenance history. Perhaps a bit strongly priced for a leggy pre-facelift in need of some TLC? Have a read of some of the buyers guides and go in with eyes open about spend - M cars can rack up some serious bills very quickly. 

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The difference between a good car and a bad one is huge. Buy a good well maintained car, preferably from an enthusiast that has had big ticket items taken care of. It won't be cheap but will almost certainly save you money in the long run and you get to enjoy the car driving as it should from day one. It could still hoover up a significant amount of cash of course but it's much less likely. 

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There is another on Autotrader that i've just enquired about, that one looks like it's been looked after, but just outside my price range, so might see if i can haggle a little on that one. 

Are there any unique things to look out for on the M5s? Vanos, jacking point rust, water under/around rear light clusters, scuttle panels etc...?

 

Link

 

Cheers!

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A good M5 will sell itself but lots available are distinctly average once you look past the badge and the lustre of the paint.  The key is to not allow the heart, excited about the prospect of having what might be a dream car for you, over rule the head.

 

If the seller (or previous owner) of the first car you linked to didn't sort even the flaking wheel finish then one can't have any confidence in what has been allowed to fall into disrepair that you can't see.

 

There's more info provided in the second advert about the £200 headunit fitted in it than the car itself and there's certainly not enough to be able to offer any opinion on the quality of the car or its mechanicals.  It might just be the picture but it looks as though there's some evidence of rot in three of the four arches.  That's not necessarily a deal breaker as lots of (probably most) E39s will benefit from rust prevention.  Conversely, quality rubber suggests that it is (or has been) shown at least some care.  It might be a peach but I wouldn't personally travel to find out for myself off the back of what I've seen on that link.

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Check out some of the buying guides - There's E39 specific issues that you're probably familiar, as well as a bunch of M5 specific stuff:

http://www.pistonheads.com/news/buyingguide/ph/31567?utm_source=pistonheads.com&utm_medium=Internal&utm_content=Forum Link&utm_campaign=Buying Guide BMW M5 (E39)

 

They're incredible cars but have a propensity to rape your wallet at every opportunity - The purchase price is just the beginning when it comes to the spend on these. As above, buy one that has had a lot of money spent on it and a good maintenance record. Be prepared to continue spending that sort of money on it. 

 

 

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Reading one of the other posts about @firestorm999 rebuilding his car, makes me think to buy a shitter and rebuild it. save myself having to ditch my daily, and spend the money on rebuilding the lump to make it better. all depending on how bad; but his write up makes me think nearly every lump can either be saved or find someone with 30/40% off and buy the new block! :P 

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The car with 177k on is without a doubt a shed. If it looks dodgy in the pictures (which it does) then it will be much, much worse when you see it in the flesh. Personally I wouldnt have an issue with a high mileage car if it had been meticulously looked after but you need to ask all the questions before setting off to see it. 

 

If i was you I would sit down with a pad and pen and list the things you want to know about the car. You want evidence of money being spent on the suspension arms/bushes, steering links, clutch, sensors, brakes etc, then ask about the state of the jacking points, sills, arches, boot seam and also the condition of the window trim etc. If you can get hold of the reg have a look online at its MOT history which will give you an insight into how it has been looked after.

 

Only after you are satisfied with the answers would I bother going to see it, any dealer or owner worth their salt will take the time to do through the details and history of the car. If they wont then dont waste your time. Apologies if it sounds like I'm teaching you to suck eggs but I know from past experience how easy it is to get carried away!

 

Good luck and take your time.

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4 minutes ago, Jameswsb said:

The car with 177k on is without a doubt a shed. If it looks dodgy in the pictures (which it does) then it will be much, much worse when you see it in the flesh. Personally I wouldnt have an issue with a high mileage car if it had been meticulously looked after but you need to ask all the questions before setting off to see it. 

 

If i was you I would sit down with a pad and pen and list the things you want to know about the car. You want evidence of money being spent on the suspension arms/bushes, steering links, clutch, sensors, brakes etc, then ask about the state of the jacking points, sills, arches, boot seam and also the condition of the window trim etc. If you can get hold of the reg have a look online at its MOT history which will give you an insight into how it has been looked after.

 

Only after you are satisfied with the answers would I bother going to see it, any dealer or owner worth their salt will take the time to do through the details and history of the car. If they wont then dont waste your time. Apologies if it sounds like I'm teaching you to suck eggs but I know from past experience how easy it is to get carried away!

 

Good luck and take your time.

 

Not at all James, and i've asked the same questions just a couple of days ago to both of the links i posted above. Will wait to hear, I'm in no rush, but don't have a lot to spend at the moment. If needs be, i'll just continue saving and look for a better one. 

 

5 minutes ago, Seesure said:

Lol - I guess you need to check out the price of a new S62 engine before you consider the 2nd option ;)

 

 

RealOEM sets just the block at $10,000 :blink: and a friend just broke one recently, and sold the lump, box and diff for more than he paid for the car. mileage isn't too much of a concern for me, as i do want to rebuild, but i need a daily, so preferably the cheaper the better and then let the experts take care of the engine. 

 

My daily miles is low (25miles round trip) so using a 530d at the moment, and the consumption on that compared to what the M5 would use day to day would be close to similar. 

 

I'll do as much research as i can while convalescing and do the maths while the insomnia kicks in. 

 

Thanks!

Deepan

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10 minutes ago, duncan-uk said:

Looks like a nice car at first glance. Needs a new drivers door rubber but show me an E39 for sale that doesn't!

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I think it needs some paint on the o/s/r arch too but as a package it seems to tick more boxes than the original.

 

I'd still advocate buying the very best you can afford - my e36 M3 was at the cheaper end but had good history - still cost be dear when it dropped a plug three weeks later, then it flung a fan blade through the rad, clutch pipe sprang a leak, exhaust flange cracked - you get the idea.

 

I spent the asking price again at least on it - fortunately the rising market helped when i sold but she wasn't a cheap mistress. once i'd worked through it i was very happy but took a while to get there and in hindsight i should have spent more.

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1 hour ago, duncan-uk said:

 

I wish, but i don't think my budget can stretch that far, unless I wait a few more months. The only issue being that the value of these cars is appreciating at an alarming rate, and the more i wait, the more the value goes up. 

 

Especially since i really do want to have a rebuild on something that's done 170k plus. Even if the seller states that it's wanted for nothing, it's taking something at face value, what someone says with a pinch of salt, and my personal sanity and satisfaction. 

 

If i do want to rebuild properly, then it makes sense to go for a cheap car with a straight body, and rebuild, but then that also costs time and money, so it's striking a balance, and the one thing on my side at the moment is that i still have to wait for at least a month or two, which gives me time to research and do the maths.

 

hopefully there are some Gems, or diamonds in the rough when i do get round to purchasing. 

 

Cheers!

Deepan

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Does your budget cover a rebuild? If so why not buy a better start point? If not can you afford to run one?

Not being funny but m cars get expensive quick so if no spare cash how long before it's sidelined with an expensive fix needed?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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30 minutes ago, duncan-uk said:

Does your budget cover a rebuild? If so why not buy a better start point? If not can you afford to run one?

Not being funny but m cars get expensive quick so if no spare cash how long before it's sidelined with an expensive fix needed?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Right now, it covers the car, by the end of the year, it would cover a rebuild. This is the question i'm grappling with, if i know i want to rebuild, then is it better to start off with something that needs work, but is a straight body, or get a decent one and save for the rebuild. the £3k a year in maintenance is acceptable for me, as i spend 2/3 of that on the E30 already.

 

 

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If I were to buy another E39 M5, I'd go in assuming about £10K work (maybe less) and therefore not find a pristine example, but rather a straight car with no accident damage and something that has had some love during most of its life :

 

The minimum work you should be considering to get the car to a very good standard and lifetime keeper :

 

Sort out any rust.  (Don't pay silly money to sort this out)

Rod Bearings

Timing Chain and guides

Rocker Cover Gaskets

Fuel Pump and relay.

All engine sensors 

All engine vacuum lines

Resolder and service both Vanos Solenoids

Rebuild Vanos units with ready available seals and springs.

Thermostat

Water pump

Viscous Coupling on fan

All Suspension arms, steering arms and bushes (and Propshaft Donut, Propshaft Centre bearing, rear CV joint. rear diff mount bushes and rear sub frame mounts)

 

Obviously you can do all of the above over time, but I would advise the Rod Bearings and Timing Guides as top priority. If they fail your bank account will take a hiding.  (pretty much a replacement S62 will be needed)

 

These cars are looking more and more simple to fix / maintain compared to the current range of ///M Cars.

 

Buy one and enjoy it for the rest of your life.  Not too many better fast saloon cars ever made or will be made I reckon.

 

 

Edited by M5 London

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@M5 London

 

Thanks for this comprehensive list. I have a body-shop that is absolutely awesome for panel work, but not one I'd recommend for mechanical work. 

I'd like to get as much done myself as possible, without the need for specialist tools. I'm in west london, by Heathrow, do you have any places you'd recommend for work, especially for Vanos rebuilds? 

 

I think circa £10k sounds like a reasonable amount. i'd have to save for a little longer but not impossible, also gives me time to look for the right car. 

 

Thanks

Deepan.

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43 minutes ago, NuckingFuts said:

@M5 London

 

Thanks for this comprehensive list. I have a body-shop that is absolutely awesome for panel work, but not one I'd recommend for mechanical work. 

I'd like to get as much done myself as possible, without the need for specialist tools. I'm in west london, by Heathrow, do you have any places you'd recommend for work, especially for Vanos rebuilds? 

 

I think circa £10k sounds like a reasonable amount. i'd have to save for a little longer but not impossible, also gives me time to look for the right car. 

 

Thanks

Deepan.

Just to be clear that £10K would be on top of the purchase price of the car, which would probably be £7-10k for a sound car that requires some work. 

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Completely agree with M5 London's advice.

I bought mine (02) with 70k on the clock and a full BMWSH, 15 documented oil changes, garaged and had seat covers, really well looked after. It still needed a new battery and prop shaft bearing done within 6 months. The rear diff seal started to weep a little. Had all that sorted now. As preventative maintenance I've refreshed all the sensors incl. MAFs etc. + changed all the fluids, filters, belts, plugs, fuel pump/sender. Even fitted okada ignition coils and F/R Stoptech trophy kit.

Planning rod bearings/CCV system, hoses etc./suspension bushes next.

Probably leave water pump till 100k miles on clock.

Car feels tight but you want to keep it that way as you know if you do nothing it'll start to feel tired by 100k. M5 maintenance can be a slippery slope....one wheel has a 5mm curbing mark, the paints detailed but not perfect...NBT retro-fit beckons, there's always something with these cars....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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