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Dannydub

Knocking noise when turning

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When I turn left at any sort of speed there's a knocking noise coming from the front right. A mechanic looked at the car before I bought it and said it isn't the rack but didn't actually diagnose what the problem is. 

I'm guessing a bush in the link arm/ drop links etc has gone. 

Anyone else had this issue?? 

 

Thanks 

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My E60 used to clonk from the front end on slow speed sharp turns. Clunking reduced slightly when I got the track rod ends done after one failed an MOT.

 

Clonks got worse again when one if the lower wishbone balljoints went.

 

A good poke around underneath should identify any untoward movement in any one of the many joints.

 

Have a read of this to see the suspension joints that are subject to wear. Easy enough DIY if handy with a spanner.

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I had this issue twice of a knocking noise - I had all the dreaded scare stories, first time ended up being a loose blanked out connecter inside the engine bay knocking around so tied that up.

 

a year later same thing and all that it was were the strut bearing nuts loose and the bonnet banging on it when driving, tightened up and no more noise for last couple of years.

 

so go down the cheap routes first before the expensive ones

 

 

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I posted the exact same thing on the 911uk forum.....

Have the same issue on my 911...lol

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10 hours ago, Dannydub said:

When I turn left at any sort of speed there's a knocking noise coming from the front right. A mechanic looked at the car before I bought it and said it isn't the rack but didn't actually diagnose what the problem is. 

I'm guessing a bush in the link arm/ drop links etc has gone. 

Anyone else had this issue?? 

 

Thanks 

Tighten strut brace bolt.

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To check lower arm, Jack each front up in turn, grasp wheel and try to rock it, any faulty balljoints will show up as movement of the wheel. Will be quite obvious if one balljoint is away.

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11 hours ago, 535iAR said:

I would be concerned if top strut nuts were able to work loose.  They are only tightened to 30Nm IIRC but they still shouldn't be able to work loose.

Common fault..mine was threaded and i helicoiled.

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Was that a helicoil over the stud on the top mount and then put a new nut over the now larger stud?

 

Just interested in the fix as it certainly beats stripping the strut to fit a new top mount.

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No i drilled out and re threaded then helicoiled used same bolt. Didnt have to take brace off neither..dad held it back while idone the biz. Took 20 mins.

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So after more research on the internet I've decided to replace the top mount. After listening to the noise over the last few months it doesn't seem to be coming from down low as I first thought. 

 

I've seen on other threads people had the a similar noise to me and replaced the top mount and it cured the problem. With the part being £25 from Euros I thought I'd give it a go. I've watched a video on YouTube on how to do it and it looks fairly straight forward. 

 

I've checked and tightened the bolts on the strut brace which didn't make any difference to the noise. 

 

Will hopefully report back with some good news this weekend 

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You will need a spring compressor. 

 

You might need to take the caliper off to give you enough room to pivot the strut out from under the wheel arch to get to the top mount.

 

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So the weather stopped any work commencing today so instead I took a video of the noise. You'll have to listen quite carefully to hear it. 

Let me know what you think it is making the noise 

 

 

 

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Not sure sorry.

On another car I had similar noises under hard braking, it was a badly worn lower ball joint, heavily creaking as it almost exited it's holder (metal on metal under load). I have noticed that tube/cylinder type joints (when fail to metal on metal) tend to produce more of a squeek, like a very noisy old bed spring. Though I have limited knowlwdge in such matters. I would be cautious incase it is a critical suspension component close to failure.

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Sounds like a bush but you really need to get under it and prod at every ball joint and every bush to be sure which one is at fault.

 

If it clonks or makes a noise it's usually because it is worn and will move with a prod with a pry bar so will be easy to tell. But you need to get under it to find it, but will be obvious if it is worn.

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46 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

Sounds like a bush but you really need to get under it and prod at every ball joint and every bush to be sure which one is at fault.

 

If it clonks or makes a noise it's usually because it is worn and will move with a prod with a pry bar so will be easy to tell. But you need to get under it to find it, but will be obvious if it is worn.

 

The pry bar test doesn't always work - my front lower track arms bushes were shot on my old E39, but you couldn't tell by using the pry bar - it was only when we removed them you could see the problem :(

 

The lower arms are a notorious service item on our cars anyways, and best just to replace them IMHO.

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15 minutes ago, Dotcom1970 said:

The lower arms are a notorious service item on our cars anyways, and best just to replace them IMHO.

 

Agree, mine were changed at 74k one side then about 81k on t'other side.

 

First side BMW identified but no noise when driving. On jacking it up I could move the whole hub assembly by hand!

Second side, I heard a clonk, jacked it up and again could move the whole hub assembly by hand.

Both occasions it was an outer ball joint rather than the bush.

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2 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

Agree, mine were changed at 74k one side then about 81k on t'other side.

 

 

Yeah, 60K onwards sounds about right.  First thing I did when I got my E61 was to replace all the front arms and links etc. with genuine lemforder.

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Turned out to be a shock absorber on my E60 back in the day but my knocking noise was happening when driving along and going over bumps etc.

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