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NuckingFuts

E39 530d Touring Sport going up for sale soon

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Hi all, so as the title says, my work horse E39 will be up for sale in a month's time or so. 

 

I will pay the money to advertise on here in due course (having major surgery in next couple of weeks) 

 

What I wanted to ask, is that there are a couple of bits that need doing to the car, and would i be better off doing them and then selling, or should i leave them for the buyer to do. 

 

The temp sensor (engine temp is fine, but dash reading shows -40 degrees regardless of weather) 

 

PDC - (had a light front end miscommunication with a motorbike at standstill traffic and insurance replaced the front bumper, but PDC gives a long beep when in reverse but no repeated beeps when i get close to anything) 

 

Front wheels vibrate over 60mph (been told that the front wheels are either off an E38 or i have E60 hubs on. Balancing is fine, but there is no 'ridge' on the inside barrel of the wheel) - I have some spigot rings that i haven't had time to fit, no point buying new wheels if the car is being sold and the outlay wouldn't increase the sale price enough i don't think. 

 

Self Levelling suspension - this was removed by a previous owner and has shocks and springs on but the SLS light on the dash is present and not been cleared. Have a Full SLS kit from a breaker ready to be fitted should the new owner wish to do so. (F.O.C to new buyer)

 

New wipers and rear brake bulbs will be fitted this weekend, and will be having an inspection II at Birds before sale. 

 

Door Lock needs replacing as upon depressing the relevant buttons on the keyfob the drivers door is still unlocked. have a new lock and actuator ready to be fitted

 

Passenger Mirror lens broken - Have power mirrors ready to go on, just waiting for them to come back from a friend who is spraying them for me for a donation of beer tokens. 

 

It's an Automatic Titan Silver sport on a 53 plate with just shy of 208k on the clock (I've done 3k since October). Always been on Shell V-Power. Looking to list it at £2000 [what i paid], and don't really want any less than that, unless a purchaser has an E39 M5 to sell, in which case I've got some cash i've squirreled away and will be tempted to do a deal, but again for that my budget will only stretch to a pre-facelift. 

 

If you guys have any advice, that would be appreciated, given this is my first E39, and i'm in no shape to do much work to it that would require specialist tools, or jacking the car up, as i have no space (sloped drive) on which to do it, nor ability. 

 

Thanks!

Deepan

2016-10-12 07.22.20.jpg

Edited by NuckingFuts

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In my view you should always try and sell a car in as good a condition as possible. Considering the mileage and what you would like for yours I would consider doing the work, especially since you have many of the parts available. Will only put potential buyers off if they know there is work to be done. 

 

Of course not every one wants to or can get their hands dirty, so I understand that paying someone to fit the drivers door lock and power mirrors might seem stupid if your going to sell it, but if you don't do it be prepared to reduce your asking price. One thing you can do is the outside air temp sensor, they are £6 on ebay and are very easy to fit even on a sloping drive, will only take but one moment to fit, silly not to really.

 

If that sounds like to much hard work I would at the very least sort out the wheel vibration over 60mph, if the car drives spot on then a potential buyer might be happy to accept some faults. I have walked away from cars with this fault many times.  BTW vibration at over 60mph is classic sign of worn track rod ends, inner and/or outer. 

 

good luck with the sale

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1 minute ago, oberlointment said:

In my view you should always try and sell a car in as good a condition as possible. Considering the mileage and what you would like for yours I would consider doing the work, especially since you have many of the parts available. Will only put potential buyers off if they know there is work to be done. 

 

Of course not every one wants to or can get their hands dirty, so I understand that paying someone to fit the drivers door lock and power mirrors might seem stupid if your going to sell it, but if you don't do it be prepared to reduce your asking price. One thing you can do is the outside air temp sensor, they are £6 on ebay and are very easy to fit even on a sloping drive, will only take but one moment to fit, silly not to really.

 

If that sounds like to much hard work I would at the very least sort out the wheel vibration over 60mph, if the car drives spot on then a potential buyer might be happy to accept some faults. I have walked away from cars with this fault many times.  BTW vibration at over 60mph is classic sign of worn track rod ends, inner and/or outer. 

 

good luck with the sale

 

I hear what you're saying and i appreciate the feedback. 

 

The lock and mirrors, from what i can see on youtube, doesn't require much effort and can be done in a day so once they're done and i have them back, i'll get on that. 

 

If you/anyone can point me in the right direction of how to locate and swap over the temp sensor that would be awesome. 

 

with the wheels, over and above putting on the spigot rings, i might have to leave to the purchaser, as the track rod ends can be fiddly and i haven't got any Axle Stands to hand at the moment. If the purchaser is paying the full asking price, i'd be tempted to borrow the tools and get it done in a mates garage. 

 

Thanks! 

Deepan

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temp sensor is located on the underside of the front bumper just in front of the drivers wheel. Its ressesed into the front fender liner that goes from the wheel up to the front of the bumper. I note that you said you had a replacement bumper i wonder if that is missing?

 

to remove unplug it and pull down the sensor will come away with a little force. 

 

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I walk away from anything for sale where the advert reads "needs xxxx only £13 on ebay etc 

 

the seller is lazy and should have done these things ! 

In this case the seller is disabled and unable to do so, unless they're without transportation for an undetermined amount of time.

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no !!!!  not this seller , I mean on ebay adverts etc !

Relax! I'm yanking your chain. I am disabled, but that's exactly why the post was out up. To figure out what I need to do, what I'm physically capable of doing and what is acceptable for the new owner to do.

Cheers!

Deepan

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I like your honesty etc and that goes a long way to selling a car too but as said. Get the work done and advertise it as good to go. Always a lot easier to sell that way. Good luck 

Much appreciated. Hopefully, all going to plan, I may have much of it done this weekend.

Track rod ends is definitely out of scope as I physically can't do it, unless someone has an easy way of doing it that I'm unaware of.

Any help that can enable me to do much of the work myself is greatly appreciated

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Buddy no one is going to give you 2 grand to be given the pleasure of having a schedule of work to put it right, this is my honest feedback as someone who has been looking relentlessly for the last 3 weeks. Also the bit about the wheels and shaking and spigots, wrong size/wheel and stuff would send me running for the hills  because anyone who drives around with ill fitting wheels has got to be NuckingFuts!  

 

There are many 530d tourings that have high miles without any faults for less money and the odd one with FSH like the 52 plate in Wrexham this week 202k 1 previous doctor owner and every bill from new have a look,  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112308474102?euid=492cde2fa63d4276a19172c9b65ba3b6&bu=43127176770&cp=1&sojTags=bu=bu

 

he offered it for £1100 but I missed his mail because of work

 

I don't want to burst your bubble but either put it right and that includes the ad contents or reconsider your asking price because the competition is fierce.

 

Good Luck 

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On 2/25/2017 at 0:38 AM, Captain Beaky said:

Buddy no one is going to give you 2 grand to be given the pleasure of having a schedule of work to put it right, this is my honest feedback as someone who has been looking relentlessly for the last 3 weeks. Also the bit about the wheels and shaking and spigots, wrong size/wheel and stuff would send me running for the hills  because anyone who drives around with ill fitting wheels has got to be NuckingFuts!  

 

There are many 530d tourings that have high miles without any faults for less money and the odd one with FSH like the 52 plate in Wrexham this week 202k 1 previous doctor owner and every bill from new have a look,  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112308474102?euid=492cde2fa63d4276a19172c9b65ba3b6&bu=43127176770&cp=1&sojTags=bu=bu

 

he offered it for £1100 but I missed his mail because of work

 

I don't want to burst your bubble but either put it right and that includes the ad contents or reconsider your asking price because the competition is fierce.

 

Good Luck 

 

I understand where you're coming from, and this is why i'm asking for the opinions of fellow forum members. 

 

I don't think the market is that saturated, where i wouldn't get what i'm asking for. The current 'blue book' / Trade value for the car is £1100, so i would assume that the current private market value is close to the £2000 mark. That's what a lot of them are going for closer to london, and have been since about May/June last year. An individual SE tourer went for £2500 last august, and most 530d sports at the moment are going for £2000 with 160k+ miles on them according to autotrader(online and magazine)/pistonheads etc. eBay i find is hit and miss, and rarely use that as a guide to prices. 

 

anywhoo, 

 

I've swapped over the door locking mechanism and actuator but this hasn't alleviated the problem with the latch not moving up or down, so i'm a little stuck. i have a feeling it might be the brown connector plug that connects to the actuator or the bottom black connector that goes to the actual lock itself. I have no idea where the problem lies, as the rest of the loom in the door (window buttons, mirror adjustor, tweeters etc all work fine, so will have to try and book it in to a garage and ask them to trace the problem if they can. Maybe ask BMW to have a look while the car is in for the steering wheel airbag recall. 

 

I'm borrowing a friends driveway to give the spigot rings a go, and hopefully that should help, if not, i've got an idea up my sleeve that i need to research to see if it will work. 

 

On the point of the windscreen wipers, i bought an own-brand set from Halfords, but they don't fit in the clips of the ones i have on my car. Does the main clips have any writing on them for the BMW ones? as mine had Z4 stamped on them which seems odd. Also, where would people recommend buying a set of wipers for their cars? preferably OEM Bosch if possible. 

 

Going to order the ambient temp sensor kit today too, so i can try and do that next week, although i'll need to buy a soldering iron. Anyone got any recommendations to do this without a soldering iron would be appreciated. 

 

Cheers! 

Deepan

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Re wipers; Continental or Goodrain wipers via eBay - c£19 - they need to have the specific E39 fitting which is a clip in, not a hook fitment. TBH I never looked in Halfrauds for wipers, so not sure if they'll stock them

 

Re @Captain Beaky comments; TBH he's bang on!

 

This car isn't going to fetch £2k in this market. I've been watching these cars a lot lately as I'm looking to buy another, was ideally after a touring, but will settle for a decent saloon now for my everyday car and I've come across much better examples for around your asking price and less and none of them have a worksheet like yours needs!

 

From reading your issues with the wheels; it sounds like the alloys you have may have been machined to fit, but not done very well and spigot rings won't solve this! The E39s run a 74.1 centre bore; all other BMWs run 72.6 - so some folk will have alloys bored out to fit the larger E39 fitting rather than using the correct hubcentric spacers etc... It sounds like that the hubs may need to be swapped over; or you need to swap the alloys over for the correct fitting ones! Either way, doing it with spigot rings is a big no-no in my books and will put any prospective buyer off!

 

Your car is c208k miles, has issues and work that NEEDS to be done (appreciate that you can't sort it all)... It'll not fetch anywhere near £2k IMO and you either will need to drop its price, a lot, or see if you can get someone to help you break it for parts and that way, you'll probably see more £££ out of it... 

 

Either way; it's going to take a bit of work to get it shifted and that's money that I highly doubt you'll get back, unfortunately :( 

 

This is by no way a means of insulting you, I simply want to help you sell your car, but expectations need to be realistic... 

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I have to agree with the others above I'm afraid. With the faults you have listed it could take a lot of money to sort them all out and that's on top of the risk of taking on a 200k+ car. At the very least you'll need to sort out the vibration, if the car doesn't drive properly then you'll have a very tough job selling it at all. A friend of mine recently bought a great 530 sport touring with 160k miles with no faults at all for £1100. I can appreciate you're not able to do the work yourself at the moment but imo you've got no chance of selling it for £2k as it stands. Sorry. 

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16 hours ago, Too late said:

As an example .I am spending nearly £700 on getting the rear jack point and sill etc done for rust etc .They will also include the rear panel as there is a small bit of rust .car is a 2003 525d manual estate . 

 

some might say why ? well. firstly i look after my cars , They carry me and my family. secondly it needs doing to get the MOT . thirdly when i sell it .A buyer will be happy i have looked after it . Cars cost us money . I dont mind looking after them. I would never ever want to sell a car that "needed work"  Most buyers want the best they can get and will pay a little more for a very well looked after car . And i think Manual cars will hold their value more !

 

Totally agree there have been countless times I have spent money to maintain a car when others have asked me why am I doing it, and the answer is it needs to be right for me 

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100% agree with making sure the car is fit for purpose and of paramount safety for those inside, but as i've rarely ever sold a car, it's a new arena, buying and selling are directly related, but different in terms of it's all well and good saying what would you expect to be done before you buy a car, but I have to take into consideration, physical limitations, amount of work needed versus realistic expectation of return on investment. yes i could break the car and make more by selling the parts, it being a sport, but with no space and no unit in which to keep things and/or dismantle, that would prove to be a futile endeavour. 

 

I have spent close to £1000 on all the rust work bar one area that's only recently developed and missed my eye when going over the car before. 

 

I'm looking to book the car in for the airbag recall and inspection 2 once i've had my operation, so close to the end of march, when it's likely to be safe for me to drive again after my operation next week. I can then try and trace the problem with the lock, after replacing the lock and actuator, the visible pin on the door neither goes up nor down, which is the same as before. the rest of the loom works fine, mirrors, windows, tweeter etc. the mystery continues. 

 

The door cards were a pain to get off, but it still amazes me that the whole thing is held on by stud pins and one torx screw. The swap of the mirrors was surprisingly simple, and three torx off, mirror out, new one plumbed in, and away you go. although i need to take the passenger door card off again, and swap the box inside the door that the mirror loom connects to as the passenger one doesn't want to fold in and it's very easily folded in/out without any kind of resistance, making me think that maybe the motor or toothed cog on the inside of the motor may be loose or skipping teeth. 

 

Won't take it apart just yet, the main priority is to swap the hubs over for the wheels. Would Number 5 on RealOEM be the unit i'm looking for? does this require any specialist tools? aside from spanners/sockets and axle stands and a jack. 

 

Has anyone swapped them with one of these shiny ones? or would it be better going for the 'proper' ones? Neither come with the Pinch bolts, so would i be able to use the existing ones? 

 

I appreciate everyone's advice and honest feedback, it's a learning curve for me, and hopefully sell a better and safer can than i bought originally. 

 

Thanks

Deepan

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Gents, 

 

Amazon have a few sets of the wheel hub pairs for the front, and as above they are Number 5 on the RealOEM page, and i was hoping someone might be able to (1) tell me if changing that might help to solve the problem, and (2) if the amazon ones are of a good quality or just look for the FAG ones only. 


FAG: Amazon linky link £180 for the pair

Non-FAG: Link  £108

Preferred eBay Pair: Link £63

 

Cheers!

Deepan

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you can get FAG ones off EuroCarParts for around £150 with the 30% discount they have on the website, i would only go for OEM, ive been there in the past buying cheap wheel bearings and replacing them after 10k miles

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9 minutes ago, IINexusII said:

you can get FAG ones off EuroCarParts for around £150 with the 30% discount they have on the website, i would only go for OEM, ive been there in the past buying cheap wheel bearings and replacing them after 10k miles

 

Tried ECP but they don't list the parts on their website. 

 

Found these... when i called them, they said they have them in stock but take 2-4 business days to come, so by the end of next week. 

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Don't buy anything for your wheels untill you've done the simple task of going to get them balanced, they may have thrown a wheel weight, this is cheaper than new hubs.

When they have wheels off, ask them to wire brush the faces of the discs and hub, and also clean up your centre bore on wheels with brush, could be corrosion.

 

 

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