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I started getting a "Side View failure" and then "Rear view camera failure" message each time I put the car in reverse although the rear view camera is working fine and the top view cameras are working too. The last time I had an issue with the Side view camera, the error only presented itself when I pressed the side view button but now it is throwing up a fault message for the complete TRSVC module (Top, Rear, Side View Camera). The last time this happened I checked the fault with ISTA and went through the diagnostic process which led me to removing the camera from the bumper, removing the attached electrical connection socket and cleaning both thoroughly and putting it all back together. So this time I thought I'd get away with the same procedure... Not so lucky!

 

Here is the error for the Side View Camera

 

F11 Cam SV failure.jpg

 

See the left bumper camera is not functioning (I suppose this is like a good old Blue Screen of Death!)

F11 Cam SV view.jpg

 

And the Rear View Camera:

 

F11 Cam SV R failure.jpg

 

But the Rear View Camera actually works

F11 Cam SV Rear view.jpg

 

So the Side View Camera failure is causing a general fault condition within the TRSVC module.

 

I connected the laptop to the car and performed the diagnostics for the TRSVC module and Cameras:

 

All faults in memory:

F11 Cam SV Diagnostics 2.jpg

 

Specific details for the left Side View Camera:

F11 Cam SV Diagnostics 3.jpg

 

 

TRSVC Module diagnostics: (See the dead give away with the bumper camera, left? No power consumption at all!)

F11 Cam SV Diagnostics.jpg

 

 

 

So, I'm thinking this is the same as I had in September where a quick removal of the camera, clean the contacts and socket, put it all back in and away we go. Not so easily done!

 

Remove the 3 hex head screws located here:

 

F11 Cam SV location 2.jpg

 

This Irwin angled driver works wonders for tighter spaces:

F11 Cam Irwin angle driver.jpg

 

 

This is the camera exposed from behind the trim panel

F11 Cam SV location 3.jpg

 

Using a small T5 torx bit, remove the 2 screws that attach the camera to the bumper

 

This is the little camera, the marble effect is just the effect of heat over time I think.

F11 Cam SV 2.jpg

 

 

And this is the problem:

See the 3 gold coloured GOOD pins and then the red stub BAD pin? That is a corroded pin with the other half still stuck in the socket!

F11 Cam SV.jpg

 

So one of the contacts is no longer contacting as the pin has corroded and broken so I need a new camera. These things are about £300 each but I found one on eBay, new, for a lot less so I'm hoping it arrives in 2 days as promised.

 

The socket is so small that I couldn't remove the broken pin but with all my trying it vanished further inside the socket. I'm hoping that the cable and socket still have integrity and aren't corroded too badly and a replacement camera is all that's needed. If not, I will need to replace the cable too (approx £150) and that requires the removal of the passenger front seat to enable the cable to be fed all the way from the front bumper to the TRSVC module in the boot so I can see a possible wasted Saturday in my future.

 

This is the contact cleaner I used for the socket. It is infused with a lubricating oil that will hopefully keep further corrosion at bay.

F11 Cam Contact spray.jpg

 

 

I'll keep you posted once the camera arrives. Wish me luck,

 

 

 

 

Edited by Matthew Ashton

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Great write up. Good luck with the fix.

 

Jealous of the camera's, my wifes Kuga has a rear reversing camera which is terrific so side ones must be a real boon in tight parking spots. 

 

And seriously, what do you use to clean your alloys, they are spotless?

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10 minutes ago, 535iAR said:

Great write up. Good luck with the fix.

 

Jealous of the camera's, my wifes Kuga has a rear reversing camera which is terrific so side ones must be a real boon in tight parking spots. 

 

And seriously, what do you use to clean your alloys, they are spotless?

 

Thanks Andrew. I use Bilt Hamber Auto Wheel once or twice a year and then a regular wash using their Auto Wash on the body and wheels with help from a set of Wheel Woolies.

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1 hour ago, sshooie said:

Excellent write up and I need to remove the self same camera as I mentioned before to see if I'm able to re-focus.

 

I can't imagine how you would go about refocussing. These are fixed focus cameras methinks.

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Well...

 

I've just taken mine out and popped it apart, looks like a Sony ccd inside. 

20170207_120204.jpg

 

Unfortunately on dismantling there is no grub screw 

20170207_120308.jpg

 

 

Looking closer the lens will focus but the lens is bonded, it should come away with some solvent, but I'm @ work so will have a look when I have more time.

 

20170207_121003.jpg

 

I have put it back for now and took a picture of the issue for anyone else having this problem...

20170207_123618.jpg

 

 

 

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29 minutes ago, E39touring said:

Sshooie, that looks like the lens is fogged, condensation?

Was my first thought, I had the air gun on it when i first bought it, then some PlastX and today it's had a cotton but inside and it came out clean. I will have a go @ re-focussing it possibly @ the weekend and update. 

 

As above it's no biggy as i don't use those ones, I use the rear view and mirror ones every day but obviously would like them to work, even if it's for when i come to sell it.

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Just a quick update...

 

I bought a new camera from eBay to replace the one with the corroded pin. No joy! So the cable is corroded too and that now needs replacing so I'm not sure I'm going to bother as it is quite the mission. Front passenger seat has to come out to route the new cable from the front bumper all the way to the TRSVC module in the boot. (The new camera is definitely working as I replaced my known good right side bumper camera with the new one and it works just fine. I hardly ever use the side view cameras but I don't like having the car in a not-perfect state.

 

One thing to note, when replacing the camera the new camera needs to be learned by the TRSVC module using a procedure using ISTA.

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7 hours ago, sshooie said:

Can the cable not be cut back, soldered, waterproofed and shrink wrapped nearby?

 

I thought about that but I have to buy the full cable from BMW at around £150 as they look like proprietary connections so I'd rather not risk trying to splice the cable with its fragile conductors.

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Fair do's.

 

I had mine out again this afternoon, like you I rarely use it but I'm selling soon so want it working for the new owner. 

 

Anyway removed it and had a go at re-focussing the lens to no avail, they are stuck rigid so popped it back in and I've just sent a best offer on fleabay for one.

 

Have a nice drive up to Glasgow tomorrow so hopefully I can sort it when I get back later in the week.

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1 hour ago, bmwmike said:

Monthly warranty if under 60k miles might be worth it ?

 

 

 

Thanks, I took a look and from what I can see once the car gets to the age of mine (7 years in September) not much of the electrical system is covered. If you have a suggestion, please let me know and I'll take a look.

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Take it out on the monthly subscription, wait for the qual period (30 day's iirc) get it fixed and cancel?

 

Only thing I would be weary of if they claim it's been damaged with it being off the vehicle before, unless it's not too evident?

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5 minutes ago, Matthew Ashton said:

 

Thanks, I took a look and from what I can see once the car gets to the age of mine (7 years in September) not much of the electrical system is covered. If you have a suggestion, please let me know and I'll take a look.

 

Fully comprehensive covers everything as far as I know and regardless of age. It gets dearer post 60k though.. a lot dearer.

 

Its the mondial warranty I'm referring to btw.

Edited by bmwmike

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I read the policy document and I see it is bumper to bumper as you say but as this mine is a pre-existing fault it is excluded automatically. All BMW would need to do is read the ECU fault codes to see when the issue first started.

 

Thanks for the info though but at £1090 per year or £100 a month I'll continue taking my chances and get this camera issue fixed.

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I took the plunge and bought the BMW repair cable from Cotswold BMW through this forum and undertook the installation. What a job and this one nearly beat me but there is always a way... Remember, this is for my Left Hand Side View Camera repair?

 

 

IMG_5384.JPGIMG_5385.JPG

 

I first tested the cable and new camera outside the car plugged in to the TRSVC module and saw it working - Image is upside down on the left but easily fixed using ISTA.

 

 

 

IMG_5388.JPG

 

 

According to ISTA you remove the passenger seat, remove the shielding covers in the engine bay, remove the front wheel and the wheel arch liner and remove the door entry sill covers. Route the new cable from the camera location up and into the engine bay following the existing wiring harness. Where this harness enters the cabin through the bulkhead, you make a hole in the rubber grommet and feed the cable into the car and then route it underneath the carpet attaching it to the wiring harness at intervals before feeding it up behind the rear seat and into the boot to the TRSVC module. Simple! Not so fast...

 

So I started by removing the passenger seat. I didn't follow the instructions exactly as those call for the headrest to be removed which I left in place and maneuvered the seat out of the car.

 

IMG_5390.JPG

 

 

 

Next I removed the covers on the left side of the engine bay:

 

IMG_5391.JPG

 

 

And that was when things went wrong. According to ISTA it was a simple case of running the cable through the grommet into the cabin except for me there was a great lump in the way... This next photo is once I started disassembling the blower motor and housing. And then it dawned on me. The instructions in ISTA are generally for left hand drive cars and of course a number of components in the engine bay are switched around for Right Hand Drive cars. So I then read the instructions for the Right Hand Camera Repair Cable installation. And these tell you that you have to remove the blower motor.

 

IMG_5393.JPG

 

 

 

So at this point I considered admitting defeat and walking away. But I had gone so far and I've never let a lump of metal (a nice lump) defeat me. That blower motor had to come out. According to the instructions you remove the cover and then 4 screws holding the fan and slide it out. Not so fast. I had to remove the bonnet pressure strut and the brace for the pedestrian protection device. But still the blower wouldn't come out. There is a blue bellows at the rear that attaches it to the Microfilter housing in the car but there is nothing in the instructions as to how to detach these 2 components from one another. Remember this is all in a tiny space so getting hands in there is very difficult. 3 hours it took me of faffing about before I found a picture of the part on the internet showing what looks like a groove that the bellows slides into. So with much force and the use of thumbs I managed to detach the bellows and get the blower out. What a relief!

 

I drilled a hole in the grommet next to the main wiring harness as it enters the blower housing and managed to feed the new cable into the car.

 

Once the cable was routed I sealed around the cable as it passed through the grommet to make sure no water leaks into the car in the future and went about feeding the cable through the car interior.

 

When I got to the rear seat I removed the backrest side bolster and used my electrical cable fishing rods to feed the new cable through to the rear left boot space where the Amplifier, Combox and TRSVC modules are. The cable was plugged in to the appropriate receptacle and then I went through reinstalling all of the bits I'd removed from the car - there were loads of bits.

 

Of course I couldn't test the installation until all of the parts were installed for fear of error codes been thrown due to the missing seat and blower unit. But thankfully the job was a success. Started at 10:00 a.m. and completed at 21:30 p.m. So a day I'll never get back and all for a piddly thin cable. But I'm happy that my car is fully functional again and all for £225 - who knows what BMW would have charged for this.

Edited by Matthew Ashton

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Great write up. I bought a new lhs camera from fleabay for £60 and swapped it a couple of weeks ago. Much easier task than yours, I'd probably have soldered and shrink wrapped once inside the cabin... 

 

Although it looked fine before now my new camera makes my rhs look a bit blurred. Also throws up a fault now and needs to be coded in but I'll probably do both at the same time. 

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Wow that's some length of job.  Well done for doing it.  Good write up too.

 

Why did you need to take the seat out?  You are going from the front nearside wheel up into the cabin, ultimately to the boot, so can't you feed it along the door sill trim?  I routed cables for the towbar install on my dads F10 via the trim albeit on the drivers side foot well and into the boot that way.

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