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Blackman

1993 BMW E34 525i SE Manual Diamantschwarz Metallic Saloon

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Hey everyone, a quick update here.

 

I've taken some photos of the car with the Bilstein B12 kit fitted, so you can get an idea of how it looks on original 15's. As you can see, it's pretty much spot on with very little gap between the wheels and the wheel arches. The tyres fitted are factory fitment, i.e. 225/60/15 all around.

 

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Also I managed to find a nice, staggered set of E34 17" Throwing stars (Style 21) with covers in original condition, so very happy about that. And I even got a spare wheel too, but the centre cap is missing. They also have the correct size tyres fitted on them (235/45/17 on the front and 255/40/17 on the rear) with plenty of tread left as well. The fronts are Dunlop with about 5-6mm of tread and the rears are a budget-brand, Barum, but they are like new with 7mm of tread remaining, so I think I'll keep them for now and see how they perform.

 

Here's the spec of the wheels:

 

The front wheels are: 8x17 ET20 - BMW part number: 36112226706

The rear wheels are: 9x17 ET22 - BMW part number: 36112226707

 

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I balanced the wheels last week and they are all 100% straight, which is of course, good news. The paint is slightly bubbling on the covers in some places, but I'm not too bothered about that for now. However, I've ordered a set of 4 new BMW badges (they just stick-on), as the existing ones are in poor condition, and actually one of them came off by itself. They are quite reasonably priced - you can get a set of 4 from BMW for 20 quid.

 

The part number for the BMW badges for Throwing star covers is: 36136758569 (they are 70mm in size)

 

Those of you who know these wheels well, will notice that I've got 2 driver's side covers on both front wheels, which is obviously incorrect. Since these covers are directional, originally designed for cooling the brakes on the M5, you are supposed to have a separate set of covers for left and right side.

 

Fortunately, the spare wheel has a left side cover, which is what I need to make the fronts perfect, but what I noticed is that the bolts that hold these covers to the wheels are quite rusty, so let's hope it won't be an issue taking them off. I've ordered 30 new cover bolts anyway, as I'd like to replace them on all the wheels, so I won't have any problems with them in the future.

 

The BMW part number for the cover bolts is: 36112227124 (you'll need 5 of these per wheel)

 

I'm currently waiting to receive all the bits from BMW, so when it's all here, I'll take a few pics while swapping the covers and then will get some photos with the car on Throwing stars as well.

 

Really pleased with the wheels, so I've got a feeling that the handling/suspension setup will be spot on....Just one thing that gives away the age of the car dynamically, is the play in the steering, which to my liking, is a bit too excessive, so I'll need to look into that after the wheels are sorted and see what's the problem.

 

That's it for now, I'll be sure to update the thread soon enough.

 

Thanks for following.

Edited by Blackman

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Simon, I haven't fitted them yet. Still waiting for the cover bolts to come from Germany, so I can put the covers the correct way round with new original bolts, otherwise the existing ones are rusty and as above, I've got 2 offside covers for the wheels on the front.

 

£250 for a staggered set is a good price, but you would struggle to find the covers for them later on, if you needed them. However, another thing to keep an eye on, is the offset, as these wheels can be from the 8 series, E31. Not a huge difference, but makes sense to get an E34 set, if you can.

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A quick mini-update before the end of the year 2017.

 

While I was waiting to receive the bolts for the wheel covers, I decided to change the engine oil, eventhough I haven't driven much since the last oil change (4710 miles to be exact).

 

Last year we used Shell Helix HX7 10w40, so this time I decided to go for Mobil Super 2000 X1 - just for a difference really, as otherwise both are decent oils. Also bought Wynn's engine flush and the oil filter made by Mann. The M50B25 takes about 5.8L, so in the case of Mobil you'll need 5L + 1L. Shell does the same capacities, but for example Castrol does only 4L cans, so then you would need 4L + 2L.

 

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As for BMW parts, I ordered x4 centre cap badges + x30 cover bolts, as I described in my last post. However, also decided to get a new radiator top gasket, because my current one has taken the shape of the old radiator, which was swollen on the top, so it keeps coming off - not good. All the bits are now here.

 

Radiator top gasket = 17101728768

 

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As you can see, the bolts have spline heads, so let's hope the old ones won't be a pain to come off. The good news is that someone has already replaced these bolts on the rear wheels, but not with original ones. They have put normal hex bolts there with washers, which means they should be easy to take off, since they look quite fresh. You could probably leave them as they are, but it's not OEM, so if I'm doing the fronts, then I'll get the rears replaced as well.

 

This is all for next year though, so it's the first job for January 2018. 

 

2017 was a quite productive year since we got a lot of work done, starting with the brakes in January,  then the wiper linkage in March, front suspension in April, got the windscreen replaced in May, rear suspension bushes sorted in June and finally fitted a Bilstein B12 suspension kit in October/November, along with buying a set of staggered Throwing stars - a very busy year indeed.

 

Plans for 2018? First of all, get the Throwing stars fitted, then sort out the play in the steering, which should bring back the factory standards of handling or possibly make it even better. Then one of the big jobs for 2018 will probably be the clutch change, but I'm also planning to refresh the gear linkage as well as a few other things while I'm there, such as the propshaft guibo, the centre bearing, gearbox mounts and whatever else will be easy to access. Apart from that, I'll see what else needs doing, but the above will be the main focus. 

 

Have a great Christmas and a happy New Year. I'll see you in 2018.

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Great thread, love the E34 and wonderful to see this being brought back to life with all the work done.

 

I'm curious about the oil - is 10w-40 semi-synthetic the recommendation now with these engines getting older and higher mileage ?  I had a K reg M50 non-vanos E36 for 13 yrs, eventually scrapped it at 20 yrs old because of rust. But I always used a 5w-40 full synthetic in that (Fuchs mostly) right up to 190k+ miles when it was scrapped.

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2 hours ago, Tuvoc said:

Great thread, love the E34 and wonderful to see this being brought back to life with all the work done.

 

I'm curious about the oil - is 10w-40 semi-synthetic the recommendation now with these engines getting older and higher mileage ?  I had a K reg M50 non-vanos E36 for 13 yrs, eventually scrapped it at 20 yrs old because of rust. But I always used a 5w-40 full synthetic in that (Fuchs mostly) right up to 190k+ miles when it was scrapped.

 

For the past 7-8 years, I've always had quite old cars with high mileage (100k+) and got so used to using 10w40 that now I don't even think about it. Indeed, it's the preferable option for older engines, but even if you look up your reg with EuroCarParts or Opie Oils (very knowledgeable guys), the recommendation is still 10w40, so I just stick with it.

 

Besides, I believe the difference between 5w40 and 10w40 is not huge anyway, so I would say it's more important how often you change the oil/filter, rather than what grade of oil you're using. It's such a simple thing to do and pretty inexpensive as well, but you have people doing 15-20k without an oil change, so in that case the grade hardly matters, despite whatever the vehicle/oil manufacturer tells you. At the end of the day, if your engine packs up, it's only more business for them. Well, that's my opinion anyway.

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Very good. Yes if I look up my old E36 M50 on Opie oils I get 10w-40 semi synthetic recommendation. On an older engine I think it does make sense - less prone to leaks and a slightly quieter engine no doubt. Most important as you say is regular changes. If I still had that car it would be 230k+ miles now and I'd probably be doing the same.  Castrol's website says 5w-40 Edge fully synthetic for the M50 (with fully synthetic 5w-40 Magnatec as an alternative). I guess they just want to sell high-priced oil and are not taking into account the age of these cars now.

 

Anyway, love that E34, keep the updates coming !

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Finally, the first update of 2018.

 

Started the year off by putting the covers on the Throwing stars the right way round, also got rid of the old securing bolts and put the new ones it. I previously mentioned that someone fitted incorrect bolts for the covers on the rear wheels and here's what they looked like:

 

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As you can see, they are hex bolts with washers, but originally you're supposed to have spline bolts in there, which fit flush with the wheels and don't stick out. The good thing about these "wrong bolts" was that they came off easily, since they were replaced quite recently. The covers are aluminium and here's what they look like once taken off:

 

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The plastic cap in the centre is separate and you can see the correct spline bolts, which is what BMW uses to secure the covers to the wheels. I cleaned the threads on the covers with some WD40 and also put a bit of copper grease on the new bolts before fitting them. Here's the first wheel finished:

 

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The front 2 wheels and the spare one had very tired-looking bolts on the covers, so I wouldn't be surprised if no one touched them for the last 10 years or possibly even from new. Had to be careful not to round the head on the splines, as otherwise I would end up drilling them, which obviously I wanted to avoid. Here's one wheel with the old bolts:

 

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Surprisingly, all the bolts came out in one piece and there was no drama after all. Here's the collection:

 

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With the covers sorted, I moved to the badges, which was a lot easier to deal with. They are just stuck-on, so all you need is a thin scraper to pry them off and then carefully remove, paying attention not to damage the surface of the cap. Then clean off the remaining glue with a degreaser and you are ready to put on the new badges. My old ones kind of felt apart, as I took them off. They weren't genuine either, as the letters on the genuine BMW badges are engraved, so you can feel a slight groove as you move your finger across them. That's for BMW pedants out there...

 

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Having previously driven on 18" M Parallels, I can definitely say that 17's are a better choice for an E34, both in terms of looks and ride/handling. Of course, looks are subjective, but I think 18's are just a bit too big and the ride was a bit too harsh for my liking as well. That's not to say that 17's are not hard, because compared to original 15" style 5's with 60-profile tyres, they are without a doubt harder, but it's something I can live with, considering the E34 is my daily driver. The car feels much more stable and planted on the road, especially giving more confidence at high speeds, since it doesn't bounce around, like it did on 15's. As for looks, it currently looks just perfect to me - Bilstein B12 kit + Throwing stars is an ideal combo, in my opinion. Here are a few photos:

 

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The next job on the list is probably sort out the exhaust. To be honest, there's nothing specifically wrong with the exhaust itself, but the catalytic converter has fallen into pieces and I'm thinking of getting an OE Klarius, type-approved replacement, so I might as well get a decent exhaust too - however, nothing too loud, as I'm quite happy with the original BMW exhaust anyway. I'm thinking possibly a Jetex cat-back system or maybe get something custom-made by Powerflow? Will need to look into this further and do a bit more research before I decide what I'm going to go for.

 

Still need to see what's wrong with my rear window regulators and my driver's seat is torn on base, so again, a few things that need to be sorted, but obviously have to prioritise things and get more important stuff done first. Talking about important stuff, planning to replace the clutch this year, along with the gear linkage and other bits, like the clutch slave cylinder, etc. Let me sort out the exhaust first and then I'll probably start looking into getting the parts for the clutch change.

 

Thanks for the following.

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On 25/02/2018 at 8:50 PM, boiliebasher said:

Wow! That's looking great sat on those throwing stars! Looks gorgeous, definitely a car to be proud of, congrats!!

 

Thanks, I had 18" M Parallels before getting the Throwing stars and can definitely say that 17's are the way to go for an E34, whatever style you like.

 

On 09/03/2018 at 7:35 PM, cornershop said:

What an excellent read - I’d love to get an e34 and get the same work accomplished. 

 

A really nice selection of parts there, must feel factory fresh to drive?

 

The most noticeable improvement was from the Bilstein B12 kit, as it made the car a lot more stable at speed and sharper on handling. The bigger wheels with low profile tyres have contributed as well, but I think the steering is holding the car back quite a lot.....We've removed the play by adjusting the steering box, but it's still not as responsive as I would like it to be.

 

Possibly, I'm too used to driving modern cars with instant-response steering racks or maybe I'm just being a bit too picky and it actually handles well for a 1992 car.

 

On 09/03/2018 at 8:43 PM, GStarrr said:

It look brilliant with those wheels on it. Top work :D

 

Thanks, in my opinion Throwing stars are probably one of the best wheels for an E34. My other choice would probably be Style 16, but they would have to be 17's and staggered.

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Such a good project this :)

 

Love the wheels too and had no idea that's how they were designed ;) 

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Okay, so I've made some progress and it only took me 2 months to get the rear electric windows sorted...One thing led to another, but it's finally done.

 

My front windows have always worked fine, but the previous owner told me that he had some problems with the rear windows, so I've never touched them since I bought the car and just kept them closed. There were more important things to worry about, but having done the brakes, suspension, steering, wheels and a few other things, I thought it would be a good time to finally look into this. I had no idea about the work required to get the rear windows back to life, so initially I just wanted to take the door cards off and see what was going on there.

 

I've done a bit of shopping before doing the job, making sure I had the basic stuff ready. I bought the WD40 specialist high-performance silicone spray for lubricating the window channels, Comma multi-purpose spray grease for lubricating the window mechanism and bonnet/boot/door hinges (I thought I would do them, while I'm there) and some door card clips (BMW part number: 51411973500), as they usually break, when you take the cards off. Also used WD40 to clean off any previous gunk from the hinges before spraying fresh grease.

 

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On a nice, sunny Saturday afternoon, we started taking the rear door cards off and things didn't exactly go to plan. One thing, which I didn't expect, is that they will start falling apart and I would need to re-glue them. I have read that door cards aren't the strongest point in E34s, but then considering that they are over 20 years old, it's not really surprising.

 

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Unfortunately, the top half of the rear door cards split when we were taking them off, but it wasn't the end of it. While the driver's side rear door card was structurally in-tact, but the passenger one was wet and damp on the bottom section of it. Seems like water has leaked into the door card over the years and the accumulation of it caused the bottom 2 mountings to come away from the card.

 

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By this point, it was slowly becoming clear that it wouldn't be a 1-day job, as we would have to properly dry the door card, clean off the dirt, re-attach the mountings and only then it would be ready to go back on the car. Anyway, with the door cards off, we started playing around with the regulators to see what was going on.

 

So basically a common problem with BMWs from this era is that you have white plastic regulator guides, which hold the regulator arms in place and help them slide smoothly through the channels. Over time, these guides become hard and brittle, simply due to age, and when they break, you end with pretty much non-functional windows. Since the arms are no longer held firmly in place, the windows sometimes get stuck when operating or struggle to go up/down, because the regulator can't travel properly through its channels. This was exactly my problem.

 

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The square-rish piece on the left with a clip that goes in the middle of it is a regulator guide that can be bought separately from BMW (part number: 51321938884). You will need x2 of them per one window regulator. The part is the same for both front and rear. However, my problem was that I also needed the round roller guides on the right, which are actually part of the regulator itself, so you can't buy them alone and you would need to purchase a complete regulator.

 

I thought it would be a bit silly to buy a complete regulator just because of one broken guide, so I knew that there had to be a better way. In the meantime, since there was nothing else we could do at that point, we took off the front door cards to lubricate the regulator channels and check if the cards were ok.

 

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The overall condition of the front cards was fine. We broke a few clips, which wasn't a big deal, but we noticed that the upholstery was peeling away around the edges and since we had some Evo-Stik handy, I thought we should make use of it.

 

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Evo-stik is just perfect for doing this kind of work and it's pretty much an instant bond. You just apply it with a brush to the area that needs to be bonded, leave it for 5-10 minutes to dry and then firmly press on the upholstery to the door card. Magic!

 

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That was it for the day, as there wasn't much else to do, because I had to sort out the guides for the regulators and repair the passenger rear door card. About a week or two later, we repaired the door card and I've done more shopping.

 

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I bought 4 square window guides from BMW, which were only a few quid each, but I also ended up buying a complete rear window regulator, because despite me doing tons of research into all kinds of window guides and clips, trying to find what else could be done instead of replacing the whole regulator, I couldn't really find a solution. The reason why I bought only 1 regulator, is because I was hoping to re-use one of my original roller guides, as apart from a tiny split on the outer edge of it, the rest was fine.

 

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However, I would be lying if I didn't mention these green Saab window roller guides (Saab part number: 4493433). This was the closest thing I could find that could potentially replace the round roller guides of the regulators. Eventhough, I bought a second-hand regulator just for the sake of one guide and was planning to re-use the other one that was originally on the car, I wasn't 100% sure that we would be able to put them back on.

 

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So I bought 2 of these just in case and it turned out to be a good decision. When the time came to do the job, we managed to remove the roller guide in one piece from the regulator that I purchased, so it was a good start, because I thought putting it on would be simple....And I was wrong.

 

Doing it by hand is impossible, so you have to use some kind of a tool, like pliers, to clip it onto the regulator arm, but as soon as we applied a bit of pressure on it, it broke into pieces. And the exact same thing happened to the other guide that I wanted to re-use. It seems like when these regulators were made, the plastic guides were slotted into the channels and the regulator arms attached to the guides at the factory. As we have found out, they are not a serviceable item, if they break....Well, there's no official procedure for that, apart from like I said earlier, just replacing the complete regulator.

 

Instead what we've done is modified the above Saab guides to fit them onto the regulators. They are NOT a direct fit, because they are too big, too wide and too thick, so you will ideally need a belt sander to get them to the right shape and size, because otherwise they won't fit. Also another thing you will need to do is slightly adjust the position of the channel, where this guide travels through. The reason why this is needed, is because no matter how much we tried to modify the guide, it was still popping out from the regulator arm, when the window reached the fully closed position.

 

Therefore, you need to adjust the channel position, so that the regulator still fully closes the window, but the guide doesn't travel all the way to the end of the channel, so it can't pop out. It might sound complicated, but someone with a bit of knowledge of how window regulators work, will know how to do this. So in short, thanks to these Saab window guides and a bit of adjusting, we managed to get the rear windows working perfectly fine, going up and down smoothly with no problems - just like from factory!

 

Before putting the rear door cards back on, we replaced these clips (BMW part number: 51411944663) that go in the middle of them. They basically hold the door card onto the window regulator, which is attached to the door, so that's how everything stays in place.

 

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And finally, the last thing to sort out was the minor water leak that caused the dampness of the passenger rear door card. Assuming a door is fitted and lined up correctly, there's really just one point where water can get into the door and that's the window moulding. Whether you have chrome or shadow-line window mouldings on your E34, they are actually re-usable and you can replace the seals inside them separately. I decided to do it once and do it right, so I bought both driver (BMW part number: 51221944348) and passenger side (BMW part number: 51221944347) rear outer window seals.

 

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Taking off these mouldings is pretty easy, as they just slide up from the door - just be careful to pry them off evenly, because otherwise you will bend them. The inner rubber seals also slide in/out from the mouldings, but are a bit of a pain to replace.

 

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Mine were badly corroded and the rubbers were hard as well as cracking, so no wonder they let water in, but for some reason only the NSR door card was damp. Seems like BMW are trying to make the most money out of these parts, because these rubber seals were about £70 per side - not too bad, considering it's a bit of rubber stuck to a piece of metal.

 

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All this hassle for such a trivial thing, like REAR electric windows, but since I started messing around with them, it had to be done. For some reason the catalytic converter has gone quite on my exhaust, so it no longer makes any funny noises, hence the reason why I decided to postpone replacing the cat/exhaust and focus on the clutch replacement instead.

 

What I want to do is to have a proper look underneath the car and see what else should be done while we are there, so I thought while the car is on the ramp for an inspection, it would be wise to change the gearbox, differential and power steering oil, as who knows when it was last done. I will need to look into the correct oils that should be used and will update the thread once I've purchased everything. After changing the oils and making a list of parts required for the clutch work, some more shopping will need to be done, so as always, I'll keep you updated. Thanks for following.

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Nice update

When i had my 190e, which suffers with lifting material on the rear door cards through absorbing moisture, the recommended action if you had a good set, was to coat the card itself in boat varnish.

 

This helps stop/reduce moisture ruining the card and also makes them more rigid to prevent further damage.

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12 hours ago, cornershop said:

Nice update

When i had my 190e, which suffers with lifting material on the rear door cards through absorbing moisture, the recommended action if you had a good set, was to coat the card itself in boat varnish.

 

This helps stop/reduce moisture ruining the card and also makes them more rigid to prevent further damage.

 

What I realised is that the weatherstrips (rubber seals) are NOT 100% watertight, so a minimal amount of water still goes into the door, but that's what the sound insulation foam is there for - apart from dampening the noise, it's also there to absorb a bit of water, because it's quite thick and spongy. Possibly mine wasn't stuck onto the door properly or has come off over time and that allowed the water to start dripping into the door card, causing the bottom damage.

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As planned, I changed my differential, gearbox and power steering fluids yesterday, so here's a quick update of how it went.

 

First of all, I had to do a bit of shopping and purchase all the required fluids, but it wasn't all so straightforward.

 

The easiest part was the fluid for the differential, which should be 75W-90 (for open differentials), and I decided to go with Castrol Syntrax Long Life, because it's BMW approved, so can't go wrong with that. In my case, I needed 1.7L, so had to buy x2 1L bottles and had a bit left after we filled the diff.

 

Now the gearbox fluid was the tricky part. According to RealOEM, the gearbox fitted on my car is S5D310Z, meaning S = manual transmission, 5 is the number of gears, D = direct gear, 310 is the max input torque in Nm and Z means made by ZF.

 

To find out what's the correct oil that should be used in this gearbox, I decided to look it up in the ZF's list of lubricants in their catalogue here > https://aftermarket.zf.com/remotemedia/lol-lubricants/lol-en/lol-te-ml-11-en.pdf

 

It's listed as "S5-31" and there are 2 recommended oils for this gearbox: BMW's oil (part number 23007533513) and Castrol Syntrans B 75W.

 

Now it would be all well and good, if it wasn't for the red ATF label on the side of my gearbox and also the owner's manual recommending to use ATF for this gearbox. I was a bit confused by the fact that the gearbox manufacturer (ZF) and the vehicle manufacturer (BMW) were recommending different oils for the same gearbox?

 

After spending a few hours digging around BMW forums, it turns out that initially as per ZF's catalogue, BMW used thicker gear oil (75W-80 or MTF-LT-2) for these gearboxes, but over time a lot of customers complained about hard gear shifts, especially in colder climates, since gear oil needs time to warm up before it can provide smoother shifting.

 

As a result, BMW later switched to ATF, because it still provides required protection and lubrication for the gearbox, while the gear shifts are easy and smooth, regardless of whether the oil is hot or cold, because ATF oil is thinner compared to gear oil, so it works well in colder temperatures as well.

 

Long story short, you can use either what ZF says in their catalogue or ATF as per BMW's recommendation, because both will do the job fine. There was an interesting discussion on Bimmer Forums a few years back on this topic, which you can read here > https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?958283-atf-or-mtf

 

Myself, I made the choice to go with what the gearbox manufacturer recommends to use, so I went with Castrol Syntrans B 75W, despite the ATF label on my box. In my case, I needed 1.25L, so again had to buy x2 1L bottles. To be honest, I hardly noticed any difference myself after changing to Castrol B 75W, but it's summer now, so the temperatures are quite high - it might be a bit different during winter.

 

And as for steering, you need to check what it says on your reservoir cap, so for me it was ATF. Essentially, you can go for any Dexron III ATF, but I wanted to find one, which was specifically equivalent to BMW's Dexron III, so the only one that listed BMW's actual part numbers was Fuchs TITAN ATF 5005, so I went with that. Various oil selector catalogues list that you need 1.2L for steering, so I bought x2 1L bottles, but strangely enough just one bottle was enough to fill the system - keep that in mind.

 

Be sure to buy 2 replacement washers for the diff plugs (07119963355), as your existing ones will most likely fall apart, like mine did, and also get 2 new washers for the power steering hose (32411093597), which you'll have to remove to drain the PAS fluid. I actually bought 4 washers, as I thought we'd have to remove the top smaller hose on the pump as well (it has smaller washers - 32411093596), but undoing the larger bottom hose was enough to drain all the fluid out.

 

Also bought a new BMW badge with the grommets for the bonnet, as mine was an aftermarket one with no edge to the letters.

 

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I didn't want to waste my time going to BMW for the sake of a few washers and a bonnet badge, so I thought I would treat myself and upgrade my tatty gear knob to a proper "M" one. Now the thing is that regular E34's never had a 5 speed "M" gear knob, because the only "M" gear knobs were for the M5's, but those were illuminated and I wanted just a basic one.

 

Anyway, the non-illuminated 5 speed "M" gear knobs became a common thing starting from E46 and E39 models, although the very first time they were used on E36 318IS models. The correct part number that you need is: 25117503231. Some may say it's a bit pricy, but I got it for just over 50 quid from BMW.

 

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It has some weight to it and it definitely feels heavier compared to my old one. Wouldn't say it makes a world of difference, but it's a nice touch and it's easy to fit. You simply pull the knob up when in neutral, but be careful not to hit the rear view mirror or anything else for that matter, as they fit quite snug, so can be a bit stubborn to come off. Line up the new knob and just press it down until it clicks into place.

 

Replacing the bonnet badge was also pretty straightforward, just use a plastic spreader to pop off the old badge, swap over the grommets and before putting the new badge on, apply a bit of grease on the 2 pins to help it fit smoothly. I've read that for the past 10 years, genuine BMW badges have always had black plastic backsides, but mine was chrome-silver, so either it was very old or just a eBay-special, although with a BMW part number on it. Pics below, old one out and the new badge fitted.

 

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Changing the diff fluid was a bit tricky, because the access to the filler/drain plugs is a bit of a pain. We had to remove the small crossmember from the front of the diff, so we could get more access to the filler plug and move the diff slightly to the left to have enough space for the socket/ratchet to fit on the drain plug.

 

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Make sure to change the washers on the plugs and possibly apply some PTFE tape to prevent leaks from the plugs in the future.

 

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Moving to the gearbox, it was all straightforward with loads of space for access, so no issues here. Notice the red ATF label on the side of the gearbox, which matches the gearbox oil recommendation in the owner's handbook that came with the car. As I explained earlier above, you'll be fine with either what ZF says (Castrol Syntrans B 75W) or ATF Dexron III. The drain plug on the gearbox had some sealing tape on it, so we also applied PTFE tape around it before putting it back in. It's so unusual for me to see a dry gearbox, because I remember the box on my E30 325i was pissing oil from everywhere...

 

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And finally the power steering oil. We undid the big banjo bolt on the bottom hose of the PAS pump and let the oil drain out. Then without running the engine, turned the steering wheel left/right a few times to make sure it all came out.

 

Put the bolt back in, filled up with new generic ATF to flush the system, run the engine turning the wheel left/right, then drained it all out again. Replaced the washers on the banjo bolt, filled up the system with Fuchs TITAN ATF 5005 and repeated the bleeding for the steering, making sure the oil level was correct. Like I said earlier, for some reason just 1L was enough with the level being at maximum.

 

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After all the fluids were replaced, we checked underneath the car to make a list of parts that will be need for the clutch replacement, so apart from the obvious clutch kit, I will also be replacing the clutch fork + spring clip and pressure plate bolts, clutch slave cylinder + hose, the gear linkage with all the bushes, 4 gearbox mounts, propshaft guibo, centre propshaft bearing and the exhaust to gearbox bracket was a bit rusty, so going to change that as well. Will also renew the brake fluid for the clutch hydraulics.

 

That should be it for now. This will probably be the last major service work required on the car, because I can't really think of anything else that we haven't done, so it will finally all come together. I'll get all the shopping done, making sure to check part numbers, etc, then will update this thread before doing any work.

 

Any suggestions are more than welcome. Thanks for following.

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