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Medved77

PDC Fault Diagnosis (Guide)

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After spending the best part of this year and many hundreds of pounds trying to fix my parking sensors I finally got them back on line a couple of weekends ago.  I thought I'd share this experience in case anyone is going through the same.

 

I have replaced:

 

  • PDC Control Module
  • PDC Front wiring loom
  • PDF Rear wiring loom
  • 4 rear sensors
  • 4 front sensors (twice)

 

I used Carly to read the fault codes.  When understanding the codes it's important to know that the 8 parking sensors form a continuous circuit, a short circuit in 1 sensor will knock any sensors downstream of it offline.

 

None of my sensors were making a clicking noise.  Originally the error code I received was 009E3B - Converter supply.  This can mean there's a short circuit due to a faulty loom or sensor or the module might just be fried.  If you look at the PDC Module under the spare wheel well you'll see 3 connectors plugged into it:

 

  • Top - Supply to Front Loom
  • Middle - Power from battery to Module
  • Bottom - Supply to Rear Loom

 

585420ea09ea9_PDCModule.png.c21ffb91bc64

 

To understand the root of 009E3B remove the top connector, re-read the codes, if you now get additional error codes with the fault text containing 'Inverter' you're issue is at the front of the car and your module is fine.  Repeat for the rear, if you get fault codes containing the fault text 'Inverter' your issue is at the rear.  If you don't get any codes with the fault text 'Inverter' then your module is either screwed or the sensor in position 1 of the circuit is.  I'm not sure how to determine this, at least not with Carly.

 

Turned out my module was fried.  Replaced that, re-read the codes then got the inverter errors.

 

Once you get to a position whereby you're picking up Inverter errors you can then tell which sensor is not working by referencing the following:

 

  1. 009E38  Inverter VR  (Front Passenger Side)
  2. 009E3A  Inverter VMR  (Front Passenger Middle)
  3. 009E39  Inverter VML  (Front Driver Middle)
  4. 009E39  Inverter VL  (Front Driver Side)
  5. 009E33  Inverter HL  (Rear Driver Side)
  6. 009E35  Inverter HML  (Rear Driver Middle)  
  7. 009E36  Inverter HMR  (Rear Passenger Middle)
  8. 009E34  Inverter HR  (Rear Passenger Side)

 

The sensor in the sequence immediately after the sensor reporting the fault is the broken sensor.  I was picking up fault codes for 009E38 so by changing the sensor on the Front Passenger Middle the rest of my sensors came back on line.  So the fault reported is the last working sensor in the circuit.

 

I had bought these sensors from ebay which apparently are the OEM SWF make:

 

Front:  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131856525465?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Rear:  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131855629663?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

The rear ones were fine however half of the front sensors arrived faulty which threw me when replacing all of the front sensors making me thing the issue was at the rear.  It was only after making an attempt to understand the codes, rather than by throwing money at the issue did I realise this.  I'd still recommend purchasing them for the price alone however get a few more than you actually need just in case they are faulty.

 

Some various pictures of the bumpers off before I changed the loom that may be useful for reference.  Note that Front side sensors can be accessed by removing the headlights, front middle sensors by removing the kidney grills and you'll need to take the rear bumper off to change any at the rear.

 

585421d89a72c_2016-09-1610.05.05.thumb.j

 

585421da04834_2016-09-1610.05.18.thumb.j

 

585421e05b16e_2016-09-1610.05.31.thumb.j

 

Hope this'll help someone quickly diagnose why their sensors aren't working.

 

 

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Nice one.

 

How did you find out the details of the codes etc and to know that the code means it's the next one that is faulty and not the one that the code relates to? Google?

 

Any clues as to what caused the module to fail? Water ingress?

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Nice one.

 

How did you find out the details of the codes etc and to know that the code means it's the next one that is faulty and not the one that the code relates to? Google?

 

Any clues as to what caused the module to fail? Water ingress?

Couldn't find anything useful on google. Just thought that if the sensor is broken it's not going to communicate so it makes sense that the only sensor picked up by the diagnostics is the one preceding the broken one on the circuit.

Not sure what caused the module to fail, definitely no signs of water there.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

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Many thanks for a very good explanation!

 

Carly shows mine E60 (2004) the following PDC fault code: 

 

Inverter HR

009E34

 

I have two questions to you and would appreciate your reply:

(1) which type of E60 sensor should I buy? I checked some videos about how to replace the PDC sensor and it appears the older E60 had a different form factor than you showed in the links. Does it matter which kind to use as long as it is for E60?

(2) You mention the front PDC sensors could be assessed by removing the front headlight. Have not done it before. Which way is easier, in your opinion, by removing front bumper or headlight?

 

Cheers,

Jiaxin

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Many thanks for a very good explanation!

 

Carly shows mine E60 (2004) the following PDC fault code: 

 

Inverter HR

009E34

 

I have two questions to you and would appreciate your reply:

(1) which type of E60 sensor should I buy? I checked some videos about how to replace the PDC sensor and it appears the older E60 had a different form factor than you showed in the links. Does it matter which kind to use as long as it is for E60?

(2) You mention the front PDC sensors could be assessed by removing the front headlight. Have not done it before. Which way is easier, in your opinion, by removing front bumper or headlight?

 

Cheers,

Jiaxin

I wasn't aware that there were different versions of sensor for the E60.

I know the E60 sensors are backwards compatible with the E39 so doubt it matters. The same sensors are also used on Land Rovers and I believe some Citroens too. SWF is the oem make.

To remove the front bumper you need to remove the headlights anyway, so if you're just attempting to repair the parking sensors and aren't planning to replace the loom there's no need to remove the bumper.

Your code suggests an error at the rear though so not sure why you're looking at the front?

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

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17 hours ago, Medved77 said:

 

 

I wasn't aware that there were different versions of sensor for the E60.

 

I know the E60 sensors are backwards compatible with the E39 so doubt it matters. The same sensors are also used on Land Rovers and I believe some Citroens too. SWF is the oem make.

 

To remove the front bumper you need to remove the headlights anyway, so if you're just attempting to repair the parking sensors and aren't planning to replace the loom there's no need to remove the bumper.

 

Your code suggests an error at the rear though so not sure why you're looking at the front?

 

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Many thanks for your prompt reply. 

I used Carly OBD II which detects only HR defective PDC sensor. I used also Bavarian Tecknic OBD and detected even the front left corner PDC sensor is defective. So your advice for removing only headlight may be much easier.

I have looked different "PDC sensors for BMW E60" and found at least more than three different forms. In the old type sensor, the three poles for electric contact are in a straight line but in the newer type the three contact poles are arranged in triangle position. So I guess my car contact could only fit one of them.

 

Regards,

Jiaxin

 

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Many thanks for your prompt reply. 

I used Carly OBD II which detects only HR defective PDC sensor. I used also Bavarian Tecknic OBD and detected even the front left corner PDC sensor is defective. So your advice for removing only headlight may be much easier.

I have looked different "PDC sensors for BMW E60" and found at least more than three different forms. In the old type sensor, the three poles for electric contact are in a straight line but in the newer type the three contact poles are arranged in triangle position. So I guess my car contact could only fit one of them.

 

Regards,

Jiaxin

 

OK, my car is 2005 and has the pins in a triangular formation if that helps.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

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For months now i've been surfing the net trying to fix my e60 PDC.

My friend diagnosed me that the front passenger pdc is faulty, so i ordered a new one. Turns out the sensor is not faulty, rather any sensor i put in that spot is not working (it doeant click, while all other sensors do).

Is it possible that the passanger middle sensor is faulty even if it is clicking?

So ive eliminated the sensor faultyines. Also the wires are in good shape and its unlikley a wire broke somwhere in the car. I've dismantled my headlight 3 times now.

Im do not own a diagnostic. How can i check is my module faulty before i buy a new one?

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If you have tried known working sensors in the faulty position then that tells me there is more than likely a fault in the wiring. Have you checked the wiring for breaks with a test meter?

 

Just because the wire looks ok on the outside doesn't mean it's ok on the inside.

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Hi, the first picture in this post is wrong.

 

The "TOP" connector goes to the front.

Connector X18362, 18-pin

Pin #1 GND for ultrasonic sensor, front right

Pin #2 GND for ultrasonic sensor, front left

Pin #3 ---

Pin #4 ---

Pin #5 Voltage supply for ultrasonic sensor, front middle right

Pin #6 Voltage supply for ultrasonic sensor, front middle left

Pin #7 Voltage supply for ultrasonic sensor, front right

Pin #8 Voltage supply for ultrasonic sensor, front left

Pin #9 ---

Pin #10 GND for ultrasonic sensor, front middle right

Pin #11 GND for ultrasonic sensor, front middle left

Pin #12 Signal from front centre right ultrasonic sensor

Pin #13 Signal from front centre left ultrasonic sensor

Pin #14 Signal from front right ultrasonic sensor

Pin #15 Signal from front left ultrasonic sensor

Pin #16 ---

Pin #17 ---

Pin #18 ---

 

The "MIDDLE" goes to the rear.

Connector X18013, 18-pin

Pin #1 GND for ultrasonic sensor, rear right

Pin #2 GND for ultrasonic sensor, rear left

Pin #3 ---

Pin #4 ---

Pin #5 Voltage supply for ultrasonic sensor, rear middle right

Pin #6 Voltage supply for ultrasonic sensor, rear middle left

Pin #7 Voltage supply for ultrasonic sensor, rear right

Pin #8 Voltage supply for ultrasonic sensor, rear left

Pin #9 ---

Pin #10 GND for ultrasonic sensor, rear middle right

Pin #11 GND for ultrasonic sensor, rear middle left

Pin #12 Signal from rear centre right ultrasonic sensor

Pin #13 Signal from rear centre left ultrasonic sensor

Pin #14 Signal from rear right ultrasonic sensor

Pin #15 Signal from rear left ultrasonic sensor

Pin #16 ---

Pin #17 ---

Pin #18 ---

 

 

"BOTTOM" is the power supply part of the module.

Connector X300, 12-pin

Pin #1 Voltage supply from terminal 15 (For vehicles built after 03/2004: Terminal 30g)

Pin #2 CAN-High on K-CAN

Pin #3 ---

Pin #4 ---

Pin #5 ---

Pin #6 Ground (Terminal 31)

Pin#7 ---

Pin #8 CAN-Low on K-CAN

Pin #9 ---

Pin #10 ---

Pin #11 ---

Pin #12 ---

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Since these cars were produced in both LHD and RHD versions it would be better todescribe the error codes like this:

  1. 009E38  Inverter VR  (Vorn Rechts - Front Right) X X X 0
  2. 009E3A  Inverter VMR  (Vorn Mitte Rechts - Front Middle Right) X X 0 X
  3. 009E39  Inverter VML  (Vorn Mitte Links - Front Middle Left) X 0 X X
  4. 009E39  Inverter VL  (Vorn Links - Front Left) 0 X X X
  5. 009E33  Inverter HL  (Hinten Links - Rear Left) 0 X X X
  6. 009E35  Inverter HML  (Hinten Mitte Links - Rear Middle Left) X 0 X X
  7. 009E36  Inverter HMR  (Hinten Mitte Rechts - Rear Middle Right) X X 0 X
  8. 009E34  Inverter HR  (Hinten Rechts - Rear Right) X X X 0

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Caladan, that is really useful information

 

The fault code I have is 009E37. I have tracked it down to the front left sensor which does not pulse (all others do - remaining 3 at front and all rear 4). I have changed the sensor and the controller in the boot floor, but the fault comes straight back when reset with Carly Pro. I found the junction of the front wiring loom and buzzed the cable to the sensor and all is good.

 

My question is, do you have any information about where the wiring loom goes to from the front bumper on its route to the boot floor well? I just wondered whether there could be another joint somewhere?

 

Or could this be something else as I noticed an earlier post  with the same symptoms

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Hi all. What do you mean by "buzzed the cable"  I've had no pdc for 3 years and now I'm determined to get it working I get no clicking from all sensors I did try my bro in laws module from 6 series which worked for about 5 sec and then went back to pdc failure. Worse bit is when I put it back in his car it no longer worked in that, so had to buy him a new module. What I'm wondering if you unplugged front and rear connectors from boot would it still throw a fault if module was good ie would the green light in dash still blink or be static. I don't want to keep buying modules if the car is going to keep blowing them. Car is 2004 e60 530d. I have a multimeter, don't know how to use it really if any ones got any ideas

 

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Indeed I've had intermittent PDC for about 3 years as well.  In very dry hot weather they tend to work some of the time, and very rarely in cold damp weather. And yes it is bone dry in the boot.

 

They were perfect for a while, and then what I would get when driving along the motorway in the rain sometimes was a bong to say PCD error, which would then re-set itself. Eventually a permanent PDC error except for above in summer

 

At the very least I should look at the module in the first pic in the post and make sure the connectors are tight and secure. A nuisance being without them, especially the rear, but I never had them before this car so can do without.

Edited by Tuvoc

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OK, so I finally got to the bottom of my issue. Mine was a wiring issue which came about over the 11 years and 160,000 miles the car has done.

 

All 4 front sensors are in a single wiring loom which runs from the front right to the front left dropping each sensor off as it goes. The front right headlight cluster was removed (this is a UK car so its the driver side - I presume they are all the same though). The PDC wiring loom runs down the wing to the front bumper to a point behind the fog light, where there is a connection joint. I pulled out the wiring loom to inspect it and there the problem was, the wiring loom had been rubbing against the bumper or the fog light and had rubbed through to expose some contacts.

 

The repair was a fairly simple cutback and piece out of the broken wires and then a good wrap in self-amalgamating tape. Job done, a well deserved pot of tea earned.

 

It is worth noting that my car is a 520D touring LCI 2007. I have also had to do the tailgate wiring, which was down to a similar issue of wires rubbing and wearing out.  

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Well done. Bet that was very satisfying finding the cable. Can I ask if you unplugged front and rear sensors from the module, so just the power was connected, (which is the bottom one) do you still get a flashing pdc light

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D4EWW -

I had the module disconnected altogether whilst I was faulting the wiring. I was using a multimeter with a long flying lead, testing continuity of each wire from the front of the car back to the PDC controller in the boot (I used the term 'buzzing out' before, to answer your earlier question).

The flashing green light seems to be a general fault indication which is given when it sees any issue. From what I remember, if you disconnect the module the car thinks it doesn't have the system and just stops reporting PDC issues.

In my case I only had one faulty sensor (which turned out to be the wire not the sensor). In this case the system didn't carry on using the rear sensors (which were never at fault) as it could have done, it just shut down the whole system front and rear. So I would think that your system will shut down and flash green wherever the fault is. I could try to replicate pulling the front and rear sensors to see what happens if you need me to.

Reading your earlier post, it appears you blew a module whilst localising the fault. My guess would be that you have a short circuit in the wiring, not a disconnect, this is only a guess though.

Also, I have a Carly tool, which I used to reset the computer. I can't remember whether I needed to, I think the system just started working again once I had cleared the fault, which would explain intermittent faults

Stuart

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