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E60 525i N53 Cold Start Rough Idle - Fault Codes

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Hard to tell from picture but the lambda sensor cable suggests exhaust?

 

Or if that's a cable I guess we know where your 32amps went.

 

Edit to add if it's either exhaust or a cable I'd be very concerned indeed!

 

Edited by bmwmike

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No idea what that red thing is, looks like tape or something, very odd.

 

Since you have already replaced the injectors, it maybe worth checking if the CCV is functioning properly as these are know to cause fluctuating idle when they go bad.  A quick way to check this is to open the oil filler cap when idling there should not be much vacuum, if it's difficult to open the cap and there is a lots of suction then the CCV valve is knackered.

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These engines are not rock solid at idle in my experience. Not like m52tu/m54 anyway. With AC on and in D mine has a very slight flutter. Move it to P and AC off and it settles so that you'd almost not be able  to tell it's running. 

 

So I guess how bad is the uneven idle?  Rev needle should be rock solid and unfluctuating.

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On 16/02/2018 at 7:40 PM, Mita said:

Well I thought as well, but as it turned out WinKFP (in comfort mode) is strict to do the programming based on the ECU HW number. I was a bit surprised to realize I have MDS81 ECU (2008-08 E60 530XI LCI) and my ECU HW number has a couple of firmware only. Anyway I updated to the latest one and it seems to be fine. What was strange for me is the amperage consuption of the car during the programming. I used a max 32A charger and during the programming time the charge was maxed to 32A, I suppose the car used more than this. The programming took about 10 minutes with D-CAN USB cable.

 

The little idle shaking - trembling remained in cold and warm stage. Today the spark plugs have been changed after replacing the coils and the injectors. At the weekend I reset and perform the adaptations again, checking the lambdas, vanos and injector short term trimming. Let see how the idle is changing. 

 

ANd last a tricky question: can you identify the red area of the attached picture? Can you gess what  it is and how is it possible?

Resized_20180208_100618_152[1].jpg

Resized_20180208_100626_5173[1].jpg

 

So what was it? I need to know!

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My turn... :rolleyes:

 

INPA codes read:
0x2AEC Stickoxidsensor Eigendiagnose - translates to "Nitric oxide sensor self-diagnosis" (meaning that the Nitrogen Oxide Censor is Contaminated).

Had the fault repeat for quite a while with no other noticable negative symptoms.

Yet to determine for myself the availability of the Stratified fueling mode under certain engine load conditions.

 

BTW, bimmerprofs.com free diagnosis is great (though requires time to collect the 60+ INPA data screen shots).

 

Apparently it is not possible to clean the sensor. Thoughts and opinions please?

Otherwise it's 339 EUR for a "NOXEM 129 NOx emulator" and some fiddling time to install, setup and resolve. Which I'm not sure is economically justifiable at this stage, considering my current driving requirements (being rarely in Stratified compatible conditions anyway).

 

 

Edited by DarkHorse
details and updates

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Talking from my own experience, I had ignored various intermittent NOX fault codes for years, never caused any rough running or other noticeable  running issues or EML light.  It was only will I did further investigation that I realised Stratified mode was unavailable for the whole duration of the issue and as you're aware this means reduced fuel consumption due to the engine running in emergency homogeneous mode.  Since I rectified the issue by going the aftermarket route (NOXEM) I have noticed an improvement of around 4 mpg which is about right considering that stratified gives an improvement of up to 13% over the non-direct injected models.  I would say that if your mainly using your car for town work and your driving style doesn't justify it then you can hold off for now.  Since your fault code points to the NOX sensor itself I assume there is nothing wrong with the electronics part, so maybe worth a clean-up.

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Thanks, agreed. How do I clean the sensor safely and effectively? I'm lead to believe it is not possible.

 

Also interesting to note, whilst Stratified mode saves fuel I think it hammers the spark plugs, firing up to 5 times per cylinder cycle. Not got the link to the info to hand but can dig it out if required. Edit: But without it the Vehicle Tax band based on CO2 would have been a lot worse ;).

 

Edited by DarkHorse
typo's and details

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15 minutes ago, DarkHorse said:

Thanks, agreed. How do I clean the sensor safely and effectively? I'm lead to believe it is not possible.

 

Also interesting to note, whilst Stratified mode saves fuel I think it hammers the spark plugs, firing up to 5 times per cylinder cycle. Not got the link to the info to hand but can dig it out if required.

 

 

 

It also hammers the injectors.

 

 

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