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E60 525i N53 Cold Start Rough Idle - Fault Codes

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No, couldn't say that any were wet. Cylinder one plug elements had a bit of a shine or glaze to it which seemed a bit unusual. Others, general carbon deposits so nothing out of norm. Plug 2 - shot. Small oil deposit on plug 3 - took ages to get it out before removal. 

 

Wear and tear signs on cylinder 4 plug were significantly lower than of any others. In general, bank 1 was worse than bank 2.

 

Injector,  well you can see from the picture.  

DSC_0573.JPG

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Ervin your problem is with the Map water pump

 

I had this problem on my 530i lci with similar errors and problems

Dealer recommended change NOX sensor, Lambda sensors and coil packs

 

went to a recommended Indi who read codes and said change water pump and I cant remember if low or high fuel pressure sensor and problems resolved

 

Jay

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Well I've just been out, checked and torqued up the plugs in mine...

 

NGK ZKBR7A-HTU... M14 x 1.25.    30nm +-3

 

Was nice and smooth on start-up afterwards but the rest will be early o'clock tomorrow.

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1 hour ago, HandyAndy_UK said:

Well I've just been out, checked and torqued up the plugs in mine...

 

NGK ZKBR7A-HTU... M14 x 1.25.    30nm +-3

 

Was nice and smooth on start-up afterwards but the rest will be early o'clock tomorrow.

 

Hopefully this will fix your problems as I recall your issue only started after replacing your plugs, which if anything should have had a positive impact. 

 

Look forward to hearing the outcome

Edited by Mr_530i

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Happy Days HandyAndy! 

 

Jay, I've reset adaptations and cleared all faults yesterday.  Started the car today, let is struggle to see whether MIL will come up - it didn't.  Went for a drive and then ran diagnostics on return.  Two fault codes came up:

 

2EF7 - DME: Map thermostat, activation, open circuit

30E9 - DME: Nitrogen-oxide catalytic converter ageing, low storage capacity

 

I guess it's possible that the WP is gone.  Having spent just shy of £400 this weekend w/out a successful outcome I think I am going to throw in a towel and take the car to a garage. Thanks for your insight. 

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The faulty water pump is setting the wrong fuel trimmings and probably  causing nox sensor errors

 

I would get the water pump changed first and then see if nox sensor error returns

 

I know how frustrating it is

 

Good luck

 

Jay

Edited by j525i
correction

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Summary of adaptations:

 

"Most BMW engine control modules are adaptive. These modules store information that keeps the vehicle running smoothly based on the regular operating conditions the vehicle is used in. The adaptation values take into account many operating parameters of the vehicle. When a fault condition occurs the control module takes this in to account and adapts to continue operating with the fault condition."

 

Some say to leave them alone, some – to reset them once in a while as it makes the car feel “like new”. Effectively, resetting adaptations restores ECU to blank canvas.  Over the years, the “brain” can get confused with all different adaptations to fuel, inputs et cetera. So, whilst I generally never do that, on this occasion, I have reset them purposely to see what fault codes the car will register without “preconceived ideas”, thus hoping to get "the truth" out of it.

 

Over a few hundred miles thereafter the ECU will re-learn various functions and driving behaviours so no biggie.  I have to say though, when I went for a drive, it felt as though I’ve gained 50BHP!  Obviously, some of it may have been down to new plugs, coils and an injector, but the responsiveness particularly above 2500-3000 RPM mark was simply outstanding.

 

I use INPA and DIS57 to read fault codes and code new parts, such as the injector yesterday.   By no means do I profess to be a pro... I would say my knowledge of software is at beginner’s level – bought only a good few months back to keep my E39 M5 in tip to shape.  

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Mr_530i - from memory, Main Menu: E60 - Engine - MSD80 N43/N53/N54 - Adaptations (my was F8 I think).  Then you've got "menu 1" and "menu 2", think its called "analog 1 and 2", or something similar.  Go to "2" - reset all.   ***Then - do not start engine*** Restart software and check/clear any and all fault codes.** Do not start the car** Shut software down and remove the key.


Put the key back in and turn ignition on, hold gas pedal for circa 30 seconds, release and wait 15 seconds, then press clutch in and start the car (this process performs throttle valve reset). If you have "auto", then instead of clutch it would be the brake pedal. Give it a few revs, shut the car off.    Restart, and go for a bit of a drive.  On return, run diagnostics, check codes, reset if any and you are good to go. 

 

I have to say though that resetting all adaptations at once carries a certain degree of risk so your choice if you decide to do what I did. 

 

 

 

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bmwmike - yes, you're right on the thermostat observation.  I guess I am not dismissing anything after this weekend :huh:.  So based on what you fine gents have told me from your experiences it could be WP, more than one injector, CVV, O2, Nox and maybe lamda sensors. Go figure! 

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Its not the waterpump it is the Thermostat. Google that code and you'll see. Personally i'd leave it for a week or two and make sure your misfire is sorted. Often end up having all the injectors replaced.

 

There are no faults relating to O2 and the NOX is bog standard expected to be honest.

 

As i say, leave it run and see if the one injector sorted the misfire.

 

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Sounds good. I'll run the car all week and see what happens. Can't get it to the garage before Friday anyway.  Update to follow..

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As the n53 is direct injected there could be significant amount of carbon build up in the intake. 

 

I have read lots about people with n54 engines having this problem and having the intake ports walnut blasted. I am tempted to have this done myself to restore some more horse. Can't seem to find anyone round the West/South Yorkshire region. 

 

Thanks for the adaptation reset  procedure. I would be more confident if in INPA all the instructions where in English and not German. 

 

After resetting the adaptation am I correct in understanding to not clear any codes but then to disconnect the cable and shut off  ignition pull the key out and reinsert and then follow the reset of your  procedure? 

 

Also you could use the hidden menu on the speedo to see if you car is reaching temp before replacing any temp sensors. 

Edited by Mr_530i

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Bmwmike is right thats the error relating to thermostat I had this and indi changed stat but advised me to do waterpump while at it

 

If I was you and the open circuit comes up again change the stat first

 

Jay

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Mr_530i - clear all codes before and after adaptations reset. To be 100% sure all possible faults are captured, after adaptions reset, switch ignition off, restart INPA, ignition back on, clear codes (if any) and then perform throttle valve reset.  Start the car. 


German version shouldn't be an issue. The process is the same   Main Menu:

1. E60

2. Engine

3. MSD80 N43/N53/N54

4. Adaptationswerte selektiv loschen

5. Alle adaptionen             

                                                                                         

You may want to read about it on forums before you go ahead with it though. Again, not trying to put you off, just highlighting the importance of going into it with our eyes open.   

 

Right, car booked in for Friday morning just in case the idle doesn't settle down over course of the week.  My indie that I trust no longer installs parts presented by customers (someone caused them a lot of grief recently) so if he charges me £250 for a new WP I'll do that as preventative maintenance. Anything more than that - I'll live w/out it and just change the Tstat. 

 

 

 

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Well as a follow up to yesterday's torquing up of spark plugs, I am happy to report that this morning in 8c at 0530 my N53 started without a splutter, straight to a smooth idle.

The following drive while cold was also smooth by sound and feel. Result!

 

N53B30 - NGK ZKBR7A-HTU... M14 x 1.25.    30nm +-3

 

Edited by HandyAndy_UK

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Incidentally, I changed the stat myself a couple of months back. Apparently it's a map controlled on on our N53. 

I got a Mehle unit from Germany via the bay. About an hour to change. New coolant and since takes about 5 mins to get to about 100c.

If you're getting a code relating, you may want to consider replacing yours.

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