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Collective-friction

New bloke with E12 M535i

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So with the exhaust off it's clear to see that the system is welded together instead of the usual clamps, my intention was always to remove the middle silencer at some point to release some noise but wanted it all plug and play so to speak. To achieve that I cut off the rear box, tidied up the joint, put some slots in the flange so I could clamp it in the traditional way. 

 

I chose some mikalor clamps after hearing good things from my fast Ford loving mates so ordered up a pair. 

 

These are stainless steel and are effectively a posh jubilee clamp which meant they could share space on the closely spaced pipes.

 

A quick coat of black VHT after some knot wheel action soon had the centre box looking better. I know it should be grey but I won't loose any sleep over that little detail just yet.

 

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The two remaining heat shields looked a bit worse for wear so I wanted to address these. The one above the propshaft was pretty manky, initially I was going to buy a new one but at nearly 200 quid I intend to clean it up and after an initial scrub it looks like it will. The rear one ( along the fuel tank) is steel and is scruffy. Once off you can see that it looks like it was galvanised when new so I knotwheeled all the grot off and dropped it into a local firm to galvanise it......only to be told it's too thin and will probably warp beyond use. 

 

Ive had experience with material warping when I've SHT'd stuff before and am confident it will be ok given the forming marks in it and the fact it's been done before. However I can't get a new one (12 quid when they were availiable!) so at this point I can't really take the risk with it. Next plan is to find a suitable finish for it keeping it as OEM as possible and not too blingy.....fussy? ....me?... maybe a bit :)

 

the two heat heat shields in question.

 

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Edited by Collective-friction

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A quick question....I have two new formed rigid fuel pipes from the dealer that I want to replace. I've had a very quick look and they pass very close between the floor and the rear beam. Anyone know if these can be changed using some jiggerypokery without dropping the beam ? 

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15 hours ago, Collective-friction said:

A quick question....I have two new formed rigid fuel pipes from the dealer that I want to replace. I've had a very quick look and they pass very close between the floor and the rear beam. Anyone know if these can be changed using some jiggerypokery without dropping the beam ? 

Yes you can, but you will need to drop the prop shaft and exhaust out of the way, we replaced both pipes on mine.

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5 hours ago, JAM172 said:

Yes you can, but you will need to drop the prop shaft and exhaust out of the way, we replaced both pipes on mine.

Brilliant, thanks for that. This means I can change both pipes without dropping the back end and letting my OCD get the better off me and the car not seeing daylight for a year! I really want to powdercoat the subframe and rear arms but I know it will never end there so that can wait a while. 

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16 hours ago, Collective-friction said:

Good shout although looking on Real OEM the E28 version appears to wrap around the leading edge of the tank so it looks to be a different shape sadly. 

 

Might still work if you use e28 fixings, brackets etc. Unless you're keeping it strictly oem. 

I don't remember it being expensive. 

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Is that an e28 centre section or a 3 box type as I've never seen one?

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21 hours ago, Sam535i said:

 

Might still work if you use e28 fixings, brackets etc. Unless you're keeping it strictly oem. 

I don't remember it being expensive. 

Thanks Sam, I've got hold of some fancy paint from the galvanising people so will try that, if that gives a satisfactory finish then I'll be happy but if not I will look into the E28 side of things. Another option is to see if Tony has a spare that I can get coated and see if it warps. 

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7 hours ago, Joss said:

Is that an e28 centre section or a 3 box type as I've never seen one?

It's the 3 box type mate. I looked into fitting the single front box that's avaliable from W&N but it's for LHD only by all accounts and won't fit the downpipes. 

 

In other news, the first of the extortionate parcels from the States arrived today...

 

NOS tailpipe trims including their natty little fitting guide ... 

 

 

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13 hours ago, Collective-friction said:

It's the 3 box type mate. I looked into fitting the single front box that's avaliable from W&N but it's for LHD only by all accounts and won't fit the downpipes. 

 

In other news, the first of the extortionate parcels from the States arrived today...

 

NOS tailpipe trims including their natty little fitting guide ... 

 

 

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Where did you get that from? I have been unable to find the centre box and I could really do with one.

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The centre box is still avaliable from the dealer, well it was when we checked last week and I can't imagine them flying out the door. 

 

The second parcel pitched up from the States today, luckily no apparent customs charges on this one for some reason. I got these from a Porsche independent garage, I think some of the earlier 70's 911's wore Mahles, they are the proper genuine 73mm caps that fit the Mahles I bought from Tony. Second hand of course and they display that lovely used patina that doesn't mark them out as copies. It took a lot of hunting to track these down so I'm pretty chuffed. 

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I am sure I obtained the old style motor sport roundels for mine on ebay, same as the steering wheel badge, have a look?

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Thanks Jamie, I found some of these? They are a bit small though at 42mm where as the recess in the centre cap is 49mm so I've emailed the company to see if they can make bigger versions. 

 

I had had a go at painting the rear heat shield/tank protection plate with the paint the galvanising company recommended. I'm happy with the finish, it's quite a dull finish and doesn't look too blingy, coupled with a couple of new rubber stops on the bottom edge I think it will be fine on the car. If I can get a spare I will still have a go at galvanising at some point just to satisfy my curiosity !

 

Then finally before it got too cold in the shed I fitted the tailpipe trims. I popped them in the oven for five minutes then tapped them on. 

 

So so that's it for the exhaust, I'm waiting on some nuts and bolts from the dealer then it's on to the fuel pipes.

 

 

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Well now the exhaust is done ( temporarily fitted so I could move the car) it decided to thank me for me efforts and shat itself on the driveway. The culprit?... both fuel pipes going into the fuel pump bracket and the expansion unit itself which resembles something that's just been pulled out the Channel. So off to the dealer and back home with everything I need to do the fuel system from nose to tail. Not cheap but at least everything was available and I only want to do this once. I could have saved a few quid and bought things like the rubber pipelines and jubilee clips from elsewhere but the truth is I love the car and I'm a tart :)

 

 

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Ok, it became evident that if I kept the car at my garage whilst I changed the pipes there was a strong chance of me clouting my car parked next door. Since this has not long been painted at great expense I can't really take the risk. So, off to my Dad's garage with the car and put up on some new ramps to give me some room. 

 

First up, all the screws holding the fuel pipe clips came undone thankfully so the pipes are free and ready to come out. Next up after taking Jamie's advice I dropped the exhaust again followed by the sound deadening shield at the front to expose the prop. At this point I realised my error in putting the car on a pair of drive up ramps. In order to reach all the prop bolts I would need to turn the prop but of course can't since the car is on its wheels.

So I've  taken the driveshafts out so I can spin the prop at my leisure, this also gave me some better access to get at the fuel pump as I'm changing the bracket, filter, mountings and all the rubber hoses. 

 

Now for a question....I've ordered a Haynes manual but in the meantime....I noticed that the pipes go between the floor and the push rod for the rear beam....I've loosened the 2 x 13mm bolts at the fwd end and noticed that the bracket is slotted. My question is does this push rod offer some kind of adjustment to the rear beam?  The weight is on the wheels and I can't see the beam moving if I take the push rod off but any pointers appreciated before I pile in. No movement with the bolts backed off gently. 

 

Also, I intend to mark up the position of the prop centre bearing bracket before I drop it down so presumably given that the diff is staying put if I put everything back as it was then the preload of the prop should be unaffected? 

 

Any advice welcome come before my manual arrives.

 

Thats where I am at the moment but hope to have another go this weekend family commitments permitting.

 

some pics, car in its temporary home and some manky fuel pipes.

 

hopefully the next update will actually see some shiny bits on.

 

 

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So I finally managed to get an afternoon to myself today without the kids so thought it was about time I pressed on with the car. Having finally made the decision to pull the rear end out I was running out of excuses to actually throw some spanners at it. 

 

First things first were to get the car off my newly acquired ramps so that I could pull it apart properly. I borrowed a set of big axle stands from a mate and set about transferring the car over.

 

 

 

 

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The exhaust, driveshafts and prop were already off so I started with the diff. Using my fancy ramps with a bottle jack it made light work of dropping it out once I figuired out that the vent reservoir was catching on the rear beam. The ramps made a nice change from my ususal supporting method of winging it, a bit safer too! 

 

Diff looks good, not too much corrosion and no leaks. 

 

 

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There is quite a lot of surface corrosion on the trailing arms as can be seen above which prompted this in the first place, the rear beam has a similar amount too so in for a penny and all that.

 

Trailing arms next, I seperated the brake line at the trailing arm joint and reconnected once they were free so I could hang the calliper out of the way and minimise any air introduction. Nice to see someone has been here before and fitted some braided hoses.

 

 

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Both trailing arms out. Next was to take the diff mount off. I was debating whether to leave it in but once I gave it a wiggle it was clear is was knackered so off it came. Some light surface corrosion beneath it and thankfully nothing inside the box section. The surface rust will be knotwheeled then treated with hydrate 80 followed by a coat of POR -15, a combination I've used with success for years. 

 

 

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And that was that. Everything out which I'll send off for powdercoating. I've spent a small fortune at the dealer and still haven't got everything I need so that will be the next priority. Luckily I didn't find any horrors, there is some surface corrosion around the grommet for the fuel pump wiring, a bit under each fwd end of the rear beam push rods which will get the usual treatment as above. The fuel pump bracket, expansion tank etc are all manky so new ones will go in as well as new pipelines of course which is what started all this in the first place! 

 

 

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Quick question....has anyone changed the trailing arm bushes and know exactly which one goes where and in what orientation ? I can't really tell from the old ones which goes where, the offset is small even on the new ones. I bought them from the dealer and have one straight and one eccentric per beam. Presumably the offset bush is to add a bit of toe in ? I don't want to be doing this twice !

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