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Alexak

Rear shock replacement

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I have lost (well not me personally but the munchkins have nicked it) one of the protective boots for the rear shock.

Impressed it can be done all from the wheel arch, normally it is interior trim out to get to the top fittings

So that wil be a job for next weekend.

 

Also never heard of deci newton metres before although the meaning is pretty obvious.

http://www.lorenz-sensors.com/english/company/torque_unit_calculation.php

 

 

 

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No it just isn't there so something must have clobbered it to shatter it somehow

I can't imagine any numpty would have done work on the shock and left it off.

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I found the remnants of the boot at the bottom of the shock absorber.

It is made of thin rubber and was pretty well shredded, It had fallen off because the bump stop which is made from a kind of foam had all but disintegrated including the retain flange for the boot

 

The part was £17.50 and it took probably 30 minutes tops to do.

 

The video above is spot on

 

Now a teaser

Who knows why you must always lower the car so the suspension takes up the load before torquing up the bottom bolt?

 

 

Edited by Alexak

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On 13 March 2016 at 3:10 PM, Alexak said:

 

 

Now a teaser

Who knows why you must always lower the car so the suspension takes up the load before torquing up the bottom bolt?

 

Because once load is put on the suspension then the bushes will become twisted which will affect suspension compliance...

On 13 March 2016 at 3:10 PM, Alexak said:

 

 

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Absolutely correct, many moons ago on another forum far away, someone thought it was because it was to take up the slack in the eyelet! If there was that much free movement I would be a tad concerned that the wrong shocks were being used!

 

Hint if following the above video when undoing the top nut (18mm) the chrome spindle will also certainly rotate slightly so mark the body and spindle with masking tap and a pencil line.

 

When tightening up the nut try to get them perfectly realigned, the seals will have adapted to the surface irregularities of the spindle. By getting them misaligned there is a slight increase in risk that the seal may fail sooner than it otherwise might I underline the term slight here!

 

The other thing to keep in mind is you definitely do need a jack under the arm because on removal the shock contracts quite a bit.

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Looks fairly simple to do. Just noticed my rear bump stops need replacing. 

Is it necessary to replace the bolts when they are removed or is this just good practice? 

Want to make sure I’ve got all the bits before starting the job. 

F2A3B92E-277B-468B-898F-BB871A933F51.jpeg

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37 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

Bmw will tell you to replace nuts and bolts, but when you get your local BMW dealer to do this work under warranty they reuse the old nuts and bolts.

 

Spot on. I'd wager new nuts and bolts are being paid for by the warranty company. 

 

 

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When I got my rear Spring replaced under warranty I should have got a new lower strut to hub bolt and three new top mount nuts. Lower bolt did not look new.

 

I did not get a break down of the parts fitted under warranty like you would have if you were paying.

 

Similar every time a new a/c condenser is fitted, the strut brace needs to come out and sure enough you are meant to replace the nuts. Not that they looked new on mine after the condenser job.

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With the rear wheel off, I noticed the protective boot at the top of the shock was disintegrating - well the foam bit was. 

The video posted by Alexak makes it look easy to replace.

Any advice on which make to go for. SACHS, Monroe (which seem to have a different colour bump stop insert which may be a more robust material?) or does it not matter with a component like this?

 

Thanks!

 

 


 

20190112_121733.jpg

Edited by Caesar

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