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Robbo

A Guide to beam mount bush fitting

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Right, that's it. No more procrastinating! I have been watching this thread for two years and the time has finally come. High lift trolley jack, axle stands and hub puller/s at the ready, 9 and 10 June it is. Two days booked off work while Mrs is away should do it.

Wish me luck :?

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Managed to get them out today. They new ones are now in the freezer until tomorrow. Biggest difficulty was getting the splined studs out on my own. Had to jack the car up on the stud then take the seats out to get enough space to hammer down on the housing to release it. I couldn't fabricate the precise pullers as shown in the earleir posts so I used some threaded rod and part of a harmonic palance puller to do the job. I just had to do it in three stages.

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A top write up here so thanks.

One question:

When doing the drivers side, I'm a bit concerned about using a blowtorch given the close proximity to the fuel lines and tank. Am I being overly paranoid?

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I would not say paranoid hippie, just sensible, i personally think that encouraging the "burning of the bush" in any context, especially in situ, attached to an e28, is a catastrophe waiting to happen.

I like many people, have read countless tales relating to the replacement of the subframe/beam bushes, from the £400 special puller kit, which does not always work well, to the various home made pullers, and the hammer chisel and conflagration method, all in my view either expensive and unsatisfactory or a lot more messing about than necessary, plus with the introduction of the blow torch at any stage, an unecessary element of danger is introduced into the equation.

I have done countless dozens over the years, and i favour dropping the beam out in its entirety, leaving all the suspension, brakes, diff etc attached to the car, the old bushes are then accessible with ease, and away from the vehicle could be burnt out if desired, i favour running a hacksaw through the outer sleeve of the bush, then they drive out with relative ease.

New bushes are very easy to fit, it certainly is not necessary to put them in the fridge for any duration prior to fitting, in fact with good access (beam out) and a little lubricant ( Fairy liquid) they will almost push home by hand, i have a custom made puller just to ensure they go home and flush, job jobbed, no damage, no risk, no struggle.

If you would like to partake of my facilities hippie, ie. drive over, do job, drive home, you are welcome, you would be the one doing the donkey work not me, i would assist in a technical manner,etc, showing you the way to support the rear end of an e28, in a manner not as yet mentioned in this thread, pm me if you fancy working in the dry one weekend.

Edited by baveria30si

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Great write up.

I'll be tackling the dreaded rear bushes early next year. Did have them done at a local garage last year but they're on their way out already. Wish I'ld found the write up earlier.

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Ok, so here was my experience:

 

With the car rear raised a couple of feet off of the ground using jack-stands, first remove the rear wheels, then the bush-chassis locators- 22mm and 13mm.

With a floor jack, support the differential. with another floor jack, support the exhaust center muffler. remove the exhaust hanger bolts from the carrier and rear muffler. Remove the rear shock lower mounting bolts, and the sway bar end links from the carrier. 

In tandem, slowly lower both of the jacks about 3 inches. At this point you can maneuver the bushes off of the pins by pulling down on the carrier ends, one side at a time. The diff-carrier-trailing arm assembly will be supported by the jack, and the brake lines and parking brake cables will keep it centered. If you're worried that you will stress the brake lines too much, you can disconnect them. Mine were taught, but I wasn't worried that they would be compromised.

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With the busing away from the pin (That pin is a bear to remove. I'd do anything to avoid that dreadful job), the tool is assembled onto the carrier bushing.

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Start wrenching. It doesn't take a lot of force, thankfully. Also no need for heating/burning of rubber.

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You can see the bush being pulled down into the receiver.

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Since no heat was used, no molten/melted rubber to remove from the carrier.

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Putting the bush and tool in place, aligning the slots in the bushing with the dimples in the carrier. I just used a little silicone spray on the bush. 

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All the way home.

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I know that it's not a common tool, and it's expensive to buy. All I did was do a search on the tool part number on the interwebs, and I came across a post of someone who had the tool and was renting it to people who needed it. Maybe a good Joe somewhere in the UK has one that he would lend? Seriously, you could make some extra dough, and you'd help a lot of people out...

 

Antony

Edited by BuzzBomb

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The E34 is pretty much identical, and i was lucky enough that Area52 in bristol is shared with a guy Tom, who tinkers with bmw's and had the sealey master kit for these subframe bushes.

4 post ramp, an acro-prop and the usual sockets, plus the puller/installer made it a very easy task, the two large bolts on mine pinged straight out after a single thump with a copper hammer, i didnt need to disconnect anything but the exhaust from its hangers.

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..the two large bolts on mine pinged straight out after a single thump with a copper hammer, i didnt need to disconnect anything but the exhaust from its hangers.

I soaked my carrier bolt heads in penetrant starting the day before, and with a 4# sledge, neither would move. I guess since it was only a few feet off of the ground, I couldn't get enough swing. Absolutely, if you are able to get the pins out, it will be a bit easier. Still, it didn't take long for me, either. It sounds like a lot of steps, but it goes pretty quickly.

Edited by BuzzBomb

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Had mine done few days ago. On a jack, in a driveway:) Took me 3 days ;) But the cost of all needed tools I bought is equal or less then garage would charge me, so huge satisfaction:)

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On 4/18/2010 at 7:28 PM, iokarus said:

Im having trouble getting the bolt out of the chassis. Ive soaked it in wd40 from the inside but no amount of hitting it seems to do anything. Is there a special trick?

 

I have had a go at this with a relative degree of success. Mine were stuck fast. Hammering, jacking, nothing was shifting them. I wanted to remove them to improve access for grinding and welding the entire region. 

 

I have devised a method of drilling and tapping the top of the bolt and making a very simple puller. Half an hour for both sides, no special tools required apart from drills/taps. 

 

Two new bolts and two new nuts come to £13.55 from cotswold and the part numbers are 33323628167 and 07129922745 respectively. I would personally have no qualms re-using my originals following this procedure (you could even weld the hole up if you wished) but new items are so cheap - hence I ordered them "just in case". 

 

You will need:

BAttery drill

~5mm drill, 10.5mm drill, hammer and centre punch, M12 tap(s), cutting oil

40-50mm M12 bolt, M12 Hex nut, spacers and washers of some description. I used an oversize nut.

Vacuum cleaner to clear swarf

spanners/allen keys for all the above. 

 

First of all, assuming youve removed both sections of the rear seat, unbolt the seatbelt and gaff-tape the wiring out of the way. You dont want drilling swarf to interact with either. Vacuum it away as you go. 

 

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Now centre punch the top of the bolt, and start drilling the pilot hole. 10-15mm deep will suffice. It doesnt have to be arrow-straight for the purposes of this exercise, but make it so as much as you can. 

 

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Then take the hole out to the tapping size, in this case, 10.5mm for an M12 thread. I expect an M8 or an M10 would probably do, if desired. Slow speed, plenty of pressure, plenty of oil. be careful the drill doesn't snatch. 

 

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Now Tap. Getting the tap to start straight is the difficult bit, it doesnt help that you cant get a t-bar tap wrench on the thing. I used the drill very very carefully to start it before using a one-armed wrench as pictured. Again, lots of oil, tapping technique here is quarter of a turn then back off to break the swarf.

The bolt appears to be made from tough steel, and you do NOT want to break the tap as you'll never get it out. Its worth spending the money on a good quality item. Just three or four threads will suffice. 

 

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NOw pull. Here is a picture of my makeshift puller. The rusty nut is oversize and acts as a spacer. 

 

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Wind the bolt (puller) fully home into the thread you have just cut, incorporating the spacer and washers.

 

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Now tighten down the nut. This required some serious leverage....

 

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And we've won!!!!!

 

Please contact me through the usual channels if you would like to borrow the "puller".

 

To the pub!!!

Edited by hippie dave
I invented a thing.

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