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Heavy rain, Water leak

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12 hours ago, 535i Andrew said:

Has it had a new windscreen which has been fitted by Stevie Wonder? 

 

He didn't sing when he fitted it + didn't have dreads :P but, yes, a new one about 6 months ago. 

 

Is there any way to tell if that's the cause? 

 

I imagine it will be almost impossible to get Autoglass to accept any responsibility.  

 

[ There's a useful windscreen replacement video here + pretty detailed that I just watched ]

 

Edited by cabby

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Just watched some of that video above. For me the whole replacement lives or dies around the edge of the new screen touching the glue 100% around, which, watching this vid it appears to be a lottery really, especially where he stops and then starts again applying the glue.

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It is all down to the PUR or glue to create a seal.

Ideally it should be done in one run around the whole screen (have a look at Paul from glasstec).

 

Furthermore using the cutting piece the way he was will damage the A pillar trims...idiot. what for seconds to remove the airbag cover trim, 1 bolt and a few clips.

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Took my car to my mates in Bury and mentioned the water getting into car problem, he suggested checking if we could do anything.

had no camera with me so could not take any pictures of job done, removed 4 bolts out of plate, removed plate and found aload of leaves and rubbish under yellow gromit,cleaned around gromit and used airline to blow up hole to inner wing, that blew more rubbish out.then removed a part of rubber seal from bottom of plate and used demel to deepen the drainage channel,reassembled all ok.

The one question i have is drying the carpets, have used towels and fan heater and i seem to get carpets quite dry, but the following day they seem to be wet again, i have not lifted carpets to can not check for water lying under carpets, have others found this a problem getting carpets completly dry. Tim  

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1 hour ago, oldtechnoman said:

Took my car to my mates in Bury and mentioned the water getting into car problem, he suggested checking if we could do anything.

had no camera with me so could not take any pictures of job done, removed 4 bolts out of plate, removed plate and found aload of leaves and rubbish under yellow gromit,cleaned around gromit and used airline to blow up hole to inner wing, that blew more rubbish out.then removed a part of rubber seal from bottom of plate and used demel to deepen the drainage channel,reassembled all ok.

The one question i have is drying the carpets, have used towels and fan heater and i seem to get carpets quite dry, but the following day they seem to be wet again, i have not lifted carpets to can not check for water lying under carpets, have others found this a problem getting carpets completly dry. Tim  

 

The carpets have a thick foam layer underneath so the pool

of water under that will keep soaking into the foam and carpet until it’s all dried up. 

Edited by Matthew Ashton

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25 minutes ago, Matthew Ashton said:

 

The carpets have a thick foam layer underneath so the pool

of water under that will keep soaking into the foam and carpet until it’s all dried up. 

just confirmed  what i thought, but with the  amount of rain we had last night i was a bit concerned, but when a checked the inner wing spaces they were all dry,had to keep going back to my mates PC to check pictures on this thread, he was quite impressed how informative it was.so after having car 3 years an having no problems at all in the space of just over a month i have had the rear air cushion and the yellow gromit problems,i wonder whats next.:smile: 

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I took passenger seat out and lifted the carpets, used a Vac to get the water out from the carpet/foam layer and the channels beneath the carpet and Ended up getting 4 - 5 litres out in total ! 

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Today I have been investigating the condition of the dreaded yellow grommet on my newly aquired F11, with thanks and appreciation to all those who've taken the time to post here with details of their own experiences. All your contributions have been invaluable. Reading through the thread it can seem confusing but once you get under the bonnet it's all really clear what needs to be done.

 

Pulling off the acoustic cover panel revealed there had been some build up of leaf matter and general sludge around the seal at the bottom.

 

20190210_145824.thumb.jpg.a7fdbc8cbd80c66b0a3ad6b5e1add616.jpg

 

Leading to an accumulation of water behind the grommet as shown by the tide mark.

 

20190210_145942.thumb.jpg.44934c0bb206a2f16075b64574cd9569.jpg

 

I'd been expecting a torrent of water from the bottom of the panel as I loosened it but there was nothing. There was dampness but no actual water sitting in there so presumably the drain had not got to the stage of being completely blocked. 

 

20190210_151839.thumb.jpg.53894ddb009b599abf931ad7772800bd.jpg

 

I cleaned the gunk from the inside of the panel and used a Stanley knife to cut a gap in the seal before filing down the two raised surrounds either side of the seal to give any water/crud etc a fighting chance of escape.

 

20190210_181554.thumb.jpg.2d7008732ca0593577f89f06f18fb7df.jpg

 

I didn't bother to seal the edge of the grommet this time, just gave the bottom of the chamber a wipe out with a damp cloth. I pulled a few bits out of the drain hole before pushing in my little finger as far as I could. I could feel some more bits in there but was running out of time and light to investigate any further.

 

20190210_160326.thumb.jpg.872a5bb5729f306cd035884cbb2e7ce7.jpg

 

When I next get the chance I'll remove the acoustic cover panel and inner inner wing and blow some compressed air through the drain from the wheel arch side. I'm going to need to find a suitable jack to lift the car first.

 

As others have said the most difficult part of this job is getting panel back into place so you can get the screws back in. It only took me about 10 mins in the end but at first felt impossible. I'm not sure what I did to get it in place now, it happened very quickly. I think I gave up trying to push it into place with an upward motion, instead I slid it in to the groove of the black grommet above  with a sideways motion and it just popped into place. I managed to get the three easy screws in but was having trouble getting the 'invisible' one tightened up. It turns ok at first but after a couple of turns I can feel a lot of resistance. The thread looked to be in good condition after I unscrewed it again so I don't think the thread is getting crossed. Perhaps the panel is not quite in the right position? It seems ok, the locating pin is engaged in the hole and the other three screws went in easily. Perhaps there is some residual threadlock leading to greater resistance in turning the screw...? Whatever the cause I ran out of light in the end so settled for getting three of the screws in and will keep the fourth for next time I look at this. 

 

I still need to fully investigate the drains under the bonnet hinges. I poured water down the grills at the bottom of the windscreen. The offside one seemed to drain prettt well. The nearside was a lot slower with a lot of water pooling in the bottom of the space under the bonnet hinge but after a while this had reduced. IIRC it's necessary to remove the inner wheel arches to get to the exit of the drains. In the absence of a suitable jack thats going to have to wait but I feel ok to leave things as they are for now knowing at least the yellow grommet will not be getting overwhelmed and allowing water into the car.

 

Edited by Cadwell Parker
Removed unnecessary photo

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So you buy a new car @Cadwell Parker and these are the first pics of it that you show us? Lol:P

 

That invisible screw you mention is the one I struggled with on my dad's F10. That's a good tip about lining up the groove of the rubber (heater pipe) grommet above. I think I dislodged that slightly on my dad's and that's what gave me bother.

 

For doing further investigation work, have a read at this very informative thread.

 

 

 

Edited by 535i Andrew
adding link

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5 hours ago, 535i Andrew said:

So you buy a new car @Cadwell Parker and these are the first pics of it that you show us? Lol:P

 

Heh heh. Not quite what you might've been hoping for I know but I've been busy. Just posted a few more descriptive photos in the picture gallery.

 

5 hours ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

For doing further investigation work, have a read at this very informative thread.

 

Yes I referred to Mathews thread for further assistance. It was very helpful. I'm still not quite sure how the inner wheel arch liner comes out but will get a look into that soon. At least I've got the most important thing out of the way. 

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58 minutes ago, Cadwell Parker said:

I'm still not quite sure how the inner wheel arch liner comes out but will get a look into that soon. At least I've got the most important thing out of the way. 

 

Try this

 

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-535i-lim_201301/repair-manuals/51-body-equipment/51-71-gaskets-loose-body-components/CMV9MZOU

 

 

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That TIS site it really helpful.  Far better than any Haynes manual.

 

Bookmark it.

 

I spent a bit of time looking thru that link I posted to see if I could find the cover in question over the yellow grommet but no joy.

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On 27/01/2019 at 14:41, nashdm2 said:

I thought we proved that even if the door seals were leaking that the exit path down and out of the door was still outside of sil/door seal area and hence it would drain away rather than drain into the car?

The vapour seals, if breached, will let water into the car. If after raining you open your rear doors and water pours out from the sill your vapour seals are leaking. I removed the seals on both of my rear doors, removed ( carefully) all the old butyl tape and replaced it. I doubled the lines of butyl on the bottom of both seals and ran butyl round the circular fixing points too. Since then I have had no water at all on the sills after heavy rain and the bottom of both door cards stay dry. Easy job and cheap too.

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On 2/11/2019 at 9:32 PM, 535i Andrew said:

 

I spent a bit of time looking thru that link I posted to see if I could find the cover in question over the yellow grommet but no joy.

 

It looks #5 on this Realoem page...

 

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=5K12-EUR-06-2014-F11N-BMW-530d&diagId=51_7865

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2 hours ago, 535i Andrew said:

^Yeah but not found it on TIS to see if they make mention about lining things up etc to make replacement easier.

 

Andrew

 

Door sound insulation removal and replacement:

 

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-520d-lim/repair-manuals/51-body-equipment/51-37-side-window-body-electrically-operated/Bz3vhh8p

 

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25 minutes ago, Matthew Ashton said:

 

Thanks but I was looking for the bulkhead cover over the yellow peril in TIS rather than the door parts. 

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1 minute ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

Thanks but I was looking for the bulkhead cover over the yellow peril in TIS rather than the door parts. 

 

Oops. got the conversations muddled.

 

I doubt the cover is listed in ISTA/NewTIS as there is no serviceable part behind it.

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On 03/02/2019 at 07:59, cabby said:

 

He didn't sing when he fitted it + didn't have dreads :P but, yes, a new one about 6 months ago. 

 

Is there any way to tell if that's the cause? 

 

I imagine it will be almost impossible to get Autoglass to accept any responsibility.  

 

[ There's a useful windscreen replacement video here + pretty detailed that I just watched ]

 

 

Autoglass technician has just finished taking out screen and confirmed it had been leaking.  Too much glue/sealant in the bottom corner nearest the dashboard meant it hadn't been making proper contact. 

 

Screen being refitted now + will be an interesting call next week to discuss remedial action.  The technician mentioned the car being valeted + dehumidifiers etc.    Also worried about longer term damage to electrics that may not show for a few months as a result of water passing through the instrument binnacle . . . . .  

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mmm, interesting. Just as I said in my post above, this screen fitting mullarky is a lottery down to if the screen is sealed 100% around the edge. Surely somebody has developed a method to analyse this? It can't be too hard. Looking at the vid, they have come a long way since the old days, especially how they take care of the car etc (might be down to the fact that he is being videoed of course)

 

Having said that, I  am no windscreen expert, but surely having too much goo would not be a reason to fail, yes, too little and that part of the glass will not touch the goo.

 

Anyway, as I said I am no windscreen expert........... 

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Maybe they could build a device that attaches itself to the outside of the windscreen frame and the tries to suck air in (Like a large air tent thingy). If it can suck air in, then its not sealed? Something like that.....perhaps I should go on Dragons Den with that idea?

 

I am sure I have seen something like it on Grand Designs when they do an air sealed house and see if it can suck air in to see how air tight the house is?

Edited by nashdm2

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