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Heavy rain, Water leak

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On 10/01/2016 at 9:36 PM, corripeter said:

Whilst not having water in the rear footwells, I have been progressively chasing a solution to water collecting on the rear door kick plates which annoyed me.

When I first got the car the, my offside was exhibiting the problem, and then after an ambient lighting retrofit which involved temporarily removing both rear door membranes, I ended up with puddlling on both sides....Doh...

So I tried the hot air gun approach...... but it did not completely fix the problem...just reduced it a bit.

So off with the door cards again......and i have now completely fixed both sides by renewing the black mastik material used.

The stuff I used is a butyl sealant strip, which I got from eBay for ~£7 for 8 metres:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Butyl-Tape-Strip-Bolt-On-Panel-Sealer-Bonding-Vans-Cars-Roof-Fish-Pond-Liner-/221224948406?hash=item338208d2b6:g:n2sAAOSwfcVUGYyj

 

For me the problem area is lowest point on the membrane bottom edge...there's a definite U section where the water is meant to collect and thenpass through a hole in the metalwork back into the door cavity.

The original BMW Butyl mastik in this area fails to adhere to the foam material over time and the water passing over the gap deposits silt/dust which means the "tackines" is totally lost.

So heres a quick how to...

1) remove Door card, described elsewhere

2) Using a new Stanley knofe blade, carefully peel back and cut through the existing mastik material leaving rouhly 50% on both the door and the membrane, take care to keep these freshly cut surfaces clean to retain their tackiness.

3) Use a plastic scraper to remove the failed/damaged section of mastik, I replaced the whole bottom edge run whilst I was at it.....

Brake cleaner helps to remove the old residues and help to also clean the backside of the foam plastic membrane....equally important to do this also...

4) Replace the removed Mastik section with fresh new Butyl strip from the one you get from Coralgraph (eBay shop)..it's  bit thicker than original but thats fine here.

5) carefully reassemble the membrane using the 2 location "bulged" features on it....I used a wallpaper seam roller to gently force it down all the way around again...obviously keeping everything clean and dry will help with good adhesion.

6) Replace the door card again..and then one more important job......

7) Inspect the inner rubber door seal, it is holllow and will have typically filled with water/mud etc. use your finger to squeeze out all remaing water from it...mine had loads in it.

I guess it fills up as a by-product of the lower membrane edge seal having failed....but the jury's still out on this one.

 

 

So 2 weeks on, and after many days of heavy rain I am still bone dry on my new M Sport Kick Plates..halelujiah...

So if you are experiencing the rear  footwells filling up...this is good place to start.

 

Peter.

 

As above, this time got photographic evidence of it.. door has not been opened at all in the last week..

 

shall be following this advice to fix mine soon.. will do the grommet too though.. may aswell if I’m tools in hand

 

 

1ACD6DDF-329C-4E5D-AB5D-24BF92E2B330.jpeg

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40 minutes ago, Greenninja said:

 

As above, this time got photographic evidence of it.. door has not been opened at all in the last week..

 

shall be following this advice to fix mine soon.. will do the grommet too though.. may aswell if I’m tools in hand

 

 

 

 

Hi Dave, I'd be interested in some more photos when you strip the door down to see how the water gets past the door seal. The door card flange can't be pressing against the seal uniformly which is allowing the water to get past.

 

Rear Door F11.JPG

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17 hours ago, KFMB said:

3 on mine. Have a look at the pic of my cover. I did take a fourth screw out but it was nothing to do with the cover. So put it back. 

 

As there is only one part number for this acoustic cover for all RHD F1x cars, I suggest one of the screws is missing from your car. The cover uses 2 screws on the face plane and 2 on the angled plane:

 

5a633582dce3d_F1xAcousticcoveredit.jpg.dd5b84b14c72e8cdaea93ed53ba11376.jpg

 

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1 hour ago, Matthew Ashton said:

 

Hi Dave, I'd be interested in some more photos when you strip the door down to see how the water gets past the door seal. The door card flange can't be pressing against the seal uniformly which is allowing the water to get past.

 

Rear Door F11.JPG

 

I’ll take plenty of photos to update the thread accordingly, up until this morning I had still been questioning where it was coming from.... looked over this morning and it was obvious to see.. I’ve since opened the door and found more evidence of it.. 

BEBF8319-89BB-465F-8531-A971D987C212.jpeg

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Hello, I have the some problem. Water goes out through yellow grommet. Dear experts do you think if I put Silicon on yellow grommet from inside of the car will that stop the leak?or water go find another way to get in? 

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1 hour ago, Luke37 said:

Hello, I have the some problem. Water goes out through yellow grommet. Dear experts do you think if I put Silicon on yellow grommet from inside of the car will that stop the leak?or water go find another way to get in? 

 

Just sealing the grommet from inside the car without clearing the leaf and crud build up behind the acoustic cover in the engine bay is a waste of time. As @nashdm2 says, follow the instructions in this thread and you'll be fine. 

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2 hours ago, Luke37 said:

Right, so tomorrow i will try clean yellow grommet from engine side. Do I need to put car on the ramp?or I can do it without the ramp?

 

All info and detailed help is right here in the thread. The cover is relatively easily accessible from the top in the engine bay. No need for ramps. 

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2 hours ago, Luke37 said:

Right, so tomorrow i will try clean yellow grommet from engine side. Do I need to put car on the ramp?or I can do it without the ramp?

 

If it's a 6 pot engine, either petrol or Diesel there is enough room to go from top down from within the engine bay. The boys with the four cylinder Diesel engines have complained access is tight from the top. 

 

There is certainly plenty room to wield the spanners (Torx T30 bit, not a spanner) working from above in a 6 pot. Might be tricky if you are a jammy git with a V8.

 

This thread is a godsend, but I found this thread useful too.

 

 

I've not done mine yet but I have had a good look at it's certainly straight forward going from in from the top of the engine bay after reading both threads.

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1 hour ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

The boys with the four cylinder Diesel engines have complained access is tight from the top. 

 

 

 

The N47 4 cylinder is tighter to access the cover than the B47 (loads of space with that one as @nashdm2 will attest to) but both are no less accessible than the N57 6 cylinder.

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12 hours ago, nashdm2 said:

Yes, my B47 was really easy access for sure as Matthew has said.

 

Looked at my B47 and there is plenty of room. I must get round to do more than just looking...

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Just get in there Jon, i used a t30 on a mini rachet and it was off in less than 5 mins. Refit will be more of a hassle but ive left it off for a bit and i dont think theres any issue with that - I'm far happier that the windscreen drains are clear and working, and looks like i caught it before it leaked. 

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3 hours ago, SuperDave said:

 ive left it off for a bit and i dont think theres any issue with that - I'm far happier that the windscreen drains are clear and working, and looks like i caught it before it leaked. 

 

I wondered about leaving the panel off. Water will still run down over the grommet regardless if the cover is there. The underbody tray on mine anyway should take out most of any splash from the nearisde wheel. 

 

What are the collective thoughts about leaving it off? 

 

Cabin in a bit more noisy?

 

But no chance of it clogging up again though and it would dry out easy enough when it wasn't raining. The cover will maintain a damp environment which is never good.

 

Apologies if this has been discussed before.

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2 hours ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

I wondered about leaving the panel off. Water will still run down over the grommet regardless if the cover is there. The underbody tray on mine anyway should take out most of any splash from the nearisde wheel. 

 

What are the collective thoughts about leaving it off? 

 

Cabin in a bit more noisy?

 

But no chance of it clogging up again though and it would dry out easy enough when it wasn't raining. The cover will maintain a damp environment which is never good.

 

Apologies if this has been discussed before.

 

Be leaving it off you are exposing the grommet to potential direct water ingress. Water doesn't flow down over the grommet, it comes in from the side and out through the other and if no leaves blocking the way, no problem. By leaving the acoustic panel off there is nothing to protect the grommet and the passage of water into the cabin if the grommet isn't sealing properly which would otherwise be disguised as water would get nowhere near (With a clean plenum)

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3 minutes ago, Matthew Ashton said:

 

Be leaving it off you are exposing the grommet to potential direct water ingress. Water doesn't flow down over the grommet, it comes in from the side and out through the other and if no leaves blocking the way, no problem. By leaving the acoustic panel off there is nothing to protect the grommet and the passage of water into the cabin if the grommet isn't sealing properly which would otherwise be disguised as water would get nowhere near (With a clean plenum)

 

 

The way I see it is the panel traps the leaves, no panel, no trapped leaves, water flows away unhindered and takes the path of least resistance down into the engine bay rather than trying to seep passed the yellow grommet and into the cabin.

 

It's obviously needed for a reason, calling it "noise insulation" implies its a nice to have, so the cabin is quieter.

 

I'm just curious that's all.

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7 minutes ago, 535i Andrew said:

 

 

The way I see it is the panel traps the leaves, no panel, no trapped leaves, water flows away unhindered and takes the path of least resistance down into the engine bay rather than trying to seep passed the yellow grommet and into the cabin.

 

It's obviously needed for a reason, calling it "noise insulation" implies its a nice to have, so the cabin is quieter.

 

I'm just curious that's all.

 

Water comes in from the left and out through the right down from the channel beneath the windscreen. Just keep the area behind the cover clean and the cover in place. Yes, it is called an acoustic cover in Realoem but it also protects the bulkhead and the grommet. Mine is staying nicely in place as BMW intended.

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19 minutes ago, Matthew Ashton said:

 

Water comes in from the left and out through the right down from the channel beneath the windscreen. Just keep the area behind the cover clean and the cover in place. Yes, it is called an acoustic cover in Realoem but it also protects the bulkhead and the grommet. Mine is staying nicely in place as BMW intended.

 

Agree with you, mine will go back but what I'm trying to understand what's it actually protecting the grommet from?

 

Fire insulation, is most likely I would have thought. 

 

Like I said, I'm just curious, as far cleverer people than me in Bavaria have decided it's necessary.

 

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Tough one to answer.  If you look at the opposite side where the steering column goes through the bulkhead it has some sort of snorkel type thing. I'd be wondering if that attaches to the bulkhead better than the yellow grommet. Anyone know?  I'd say the plate is there to stop the grommet getting pushed through, perhaps?

 

Not looked at mine properly yet beyond cracking off the bottom bolt and prising the plate forward to drain water.

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