Mazz

'94 540i Touring 6spd - The Money Pit!

150 posts in this topic

The stock manifolds are an utter disaster if you ask me.

Not only they are completely different design from side to side, but they are restrictive as hell!

890572c3e2dc1cc8845f904aa5d7c0c7.jpg

Mind you, there isn't a lot of space to play with, specially in the e34.

With that said they are a really nice piece, they look really strong and after I blasted them, they are literally as new.

OE engineers are not stupid, the engine is made to work with them, but I'd love to get some decent tubular ones.

If there were any.

boiliebasher likes this

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1 hour ago, boiliebasher said:

Wow! Great thread! Keep up the amazing work! Now subscribed!

 

Impressed with how clean everything is coming out with that aqua blaster! Most impressive results!

 

Just out of curiosity, whilst you have the zaust manifolds off, would you say they are "restrictive" as I read somewhere that BMW purposely made them "restrictive" so that they weren't able to get too close to the M5's..... I could be wrong though.......

 

I just figured that in manual guise, with a chip, induction and exhaust work, the M60b40's wouldn't be that far off from output statistics from say an S38b36....... Like I said though, could be totally wrong though.......

 

The E34 Alpina B10 4.0 made the same 315bhp power as the S38B36.

 

To do that they used lightweight Mahle pistons, increased the compression ratio, ported and polished the heads, re-profiled the inlet and exhaust camshafts, a re-programmed ECU and a complete exhaust system.... so quite a lot of work from the standard 540i engine.

 

When Alpina realised there was no more NA power to come from their own 4.0 engine they had their own 4.6 litre engine cast, did a similar amount of work plus more work on the induction system and made 340bhp, the same as the S38B38 but with almost 25% more torque.

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, sharkfan said:

 

The E34 Alpina B10 4.0 made the same 315bhp power as the S38B36.

 

To do that they used lightweight Mahle pistons, increased the compression ratio, ported and polished the heads, re-profiled the inlet and exhaust camshafts, a re-programmed ECU and a complete exhaust system.... so quite a lot of work from the standard 540i engine.

 

When Alpina realised there was no more NA power to come from their own 4.0 engine they had their own 4.6 litre engine cast, did a similar amount of work plus more work on the induction system and made 340bhp, the same as the S38B38 but with almost 25% more torque.

 

 

 

 

That's very interesting info right there thanks for that. I do agree it that's a fair amount of work done to upgrade it over the standard M60b40 lump..... Especially as the official stats show only an extra 29 hp that Alpina got out of it compared to "standard" format......

 

 

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6 hours ago, Mazz said:

The stock manifolds are an utter disaster if you ask me.

Not only they are completely different design from side to side, but they are restrictive as hell!

890572c3e2dc1cc8845f904aa5d7c0c7.jpg

Mind you, there isn't a lot of space to play with, specially in the e34.

With that said they are a really nice piece, they look really strong and after I blasted them, they are literally as new.

OE engineers are not stupid, the engine is made to work with them, but I'd love to get some decent tubular ones.

If there were any.

 

So they are restrictive then, just as I suspected...... Could it be as they are RHD versions? I wonder?........ Or were they all "restricted" due to poor design? At least there stainless though! Always a bonus! ;)

 

Tubular ones would be nice, but mega bucks as they would be custom built. And to be fair, your standard ones came out looking pretty good too!! Nice work! B)

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There is 'Mythbusters' type TV programme where they debunk immediate exhaust gas management by starting with a very pretty tubular steel manifold then batter, squeeze and squash the living daylights out of it to absolutely bugger all effect. Apparently anything from the downpipes onwards can 'back up' the system but the manifolds themselves, at normal sub 7,000-ish rpms, make very little difference due to explosive exhaust gas velocity and pressure.

 

I have owned an E34 540i/6 Touring, an E34 M5 Touring and now an E34 B10 4.6 Touring.

 

The 540i, in comparison to the other two, is breathless and lacking 'go' above 4,500rpm.

 

The M5, in comparison to the other two, feels lacking until 4,000rpm but then it really comes alive.

 

The 4.6 Alpina covers both the weak areas of both engines, as well as having the strength areas of both engines.

 

IMHO to make a 540i go quicker I would;

 

1. Change the exhaust from the downpipes onwards for a larger bore and free flow,

2. Change out the 2.93 diff for a 3.15 to increase acceleration,

3. Consider modifying the inlet system to increase a free'er flowing 'ram-air' effect at speed.

 

The last one is the trick to make an engine 'breath' more easily. Apparently at anything above about 15 metres per second (about 33mph) a smoother, larger and more direct air flow can have a significant improvement on air-flow through a filter and engine. Alpina changed the air filter, air filter housing, air filter inlet and MAF when it developed the 4.6 engine over the 4.0 obviously realising the limits of the standard system.

 

With 1 and 2 you might see a 5-9bhp difference and a chip might help you to double that bringing you close to 300bhp, and the change in diff would upset the playing field in favour of the V8 over a 3.6 M5 but don't think you'll catch a healthy 3.8 M5; 340bhp is a lot, lot more than 286 and even 315bhp and the rev-hungry aggressive nature of the 3.8 is a beautiful thing to behold at full-chat. 

 

Alternatively buy an early non-vanos E39 B10 V8 engine and drop it into an E34 making your own B10 4.6 and see off a 540i and both M5's.

 

 

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I'm no engineer mate so I have no idea on how they flow. Sure they don't look like they are any good for performance but I can imagine the struggle of engineering an exhaust system for a mass produced saloon car with a big ass engine in a smallish bay.

Again, they look damn well made, that's for sure.

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There is 'Mythbusters' type TV programme where they debunk immediate exhaust gas management by starting with a very pretty tubular steel manifold then batter, squeeze and squash the living daylights out of it to absolutely bugger all effect. Apparently anything from the downpipes onwards can 'back up' the system but the manifolds themselves, at normal sub 7,000-ish rpms, make very little difference due to explosive exhaust gas velocity and pressure.

 

I have owned an E34 540i/6 Touring, an E34 M5 Touring and now an E34 B10 4.6 Touring.

 

The 540i, in comparison to the other two, is breathless and lacking 'go' above 4,500rpm.

 

The M5, in comparison to the other two, feels lacking until 4,000rpm but then it really comes alive.

 

The 4.6 Alpina covers both the weak areas of both engines, as well as having the strength areas of both engines.

 

IMHO to make a 540i go quicker I would;

 

1. Change the exhaust from the downpipes onwards for a larger bore and free flow,

2. Change out the 2.93 diff for a 3.15 to increase acceleration,

3. Consider modifying the inlet system to increase a free'er flowing 'ram-air' effect at speed.

 

The last one is the trick to make an engine 'breath' more easily. Apparently at anything above about 15 metres per second (about 33mph) a smoother, larger and more direct air flow can have a significant improvement on air-flow through a filter and engine. Alpina changed the air filter, air filter housing, air filter inlet and MAF when it developed the 4.6 engine over the 4.0 obviously realising the limits of the standard system.

 

With 1 and 2 you might see a 5-9bhp difference and a chip might help you to double that bringing you close to 300bhp, and the change in diff would upset the playing field in favour of the V8 over a 3.6 M5 but don't think you'll catch a healthy 3.8 M5; 340bhp is a lot, lot more than 286 and even 315bhp and the rev-hungry aggressive nature of the 3.8 is a beautiful thing to behold at full-chat. 

 

Alternatively buy an early non-vanos E39 B10 V8 engine and drop it into an E34 making your own B10 4.6 and see off a 540i and both M5's.

 

 

My rusty pile already has a 3.15 diff, also 2inch straight trough pipes and Remus back box.

The inlet manifold hasn't got velocity stacks, which surprised me.

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Most of the way there then; there is a restrictor inside the standard 540i air filter box that needs removing as well.

Edited by sharkfan

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I'll look into that thanks !

And then think about getting a manifold with velocity stacks or not..

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Also have a look at underneath (as in, take it off) the offside front black bumper trim; I think there is a way to get a ram-air flow direct to the air-filter box from there. I had considered it for my 540i just before it was written off but to do it on my Alpina would mean modifying the rare-as-rocking-horse-poop Alpina air-box and that's beyond the pale.

 

IIRC I had considered making a rectangular hole through the trim then using ducting directly into the air-filter box. Pop a bit of wire mesh in the way to stop any errant birds, leaves or jumping frogs from munching through the filter and you should have a significantly increased air-flow.

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If all goes to plan, this weekend may be a big step forward. I've got a friend coming all the way from Italy to help me fire up my car again, a good dose of motivation (aka beer), and lots of hope.

Let's not speak too soon though.

In the meantime I decided to get the valley pan off after the debacle with the broken bolt; the whole point of what I'm doing is to do stuff right, and leaving a broken bolt deep inside the engine is not the way to go.

The disassemble gave me the joy of three more snapped bolts, one almost flush with the gasket surface, a real pain.

After days of struggling with a blow torch I managed to borrow the oxy acetylene bottles and jet from work and did the job, right!

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Only the last of the 4 snapped bolts remained in the block, we are going to drill it out no problem.

All the parts are gathering for this weekend rush to get this car running again.

I shall not forget anything!

But, I will, if I know me ..

Wish me luck !

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Hi folks,

I'm not going to get into the details of today, will do that when all the work is done.

I have a question though:

I found this number while replacing the valley pan gasket (yes, success..)

053629f990ffbba0aada5eaf58f2dde9.jpg

With the engine assembled it would be right underneath the throttle body and the water pump, completely invisible.

I know from the casting number that mine should be a nikasil block, but how do I decode this other number I found?

Any help would be much appreciated,

Thanks !

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40 is 4 litre, 8 the no of cylinders   1 will be the compression ratio at a guess 

 

the top number at a guess is the engine number for the car 

 

If it still runs fine and doesn't use alot of oil i'd not worry, i've had a few nikasil 6 pot e36's and they've been beauts!

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Agreed ^^ ^_^

The whole nikasil issue is old hat now and as far as I'm aware hasn't been an issue for a long time. I've had nikasil engines too, like bumbaclut and they've all run sweet as a nut!! I personally would have said that in this day and age dirty fuel injectors or perishable items like vac lines, intake boots and dodgy sensors etc will probably cause you more running issues than the whole "nikasil" scaremongering  than was common place a few years ago ;)

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The Nikasil thing doesn't bother me, I'm just curious is this car has had a replacement block or not, just to add to the history I have. By the looks of it no, but the long engine number may reveal something.

Anyway, here's a little summary on how the weekend went down.

As I said I had the precious help of a friend that flew from home, and that is also very handy with cars and greasy stuff, with his help everything seemed doable, still not Toyota easy, but doable.

We started Saturday at 8 am, with the exhaust manifolds

22329596fa7e46830d579ea41bdcd2a3.jpg

I blasted them, tested them for leaks with the smoke machine, and then a lick of silver vht paint.

All to go on with new gaskets, new copper nuts and copper paste on the studs

5506a4d54288545efd12fefa3c0f5084.jpg

Looking good

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First use for the torque wrench, 22nm on this one.

Next->

The hero that helped me with the broken bolts made a comeback to finish the job, one last stud to drill out for good

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33f4ee8c60f4bd4515405c4cdaf48b3a.jpg

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Stud extractor didn't work, time to drill and tap

476923ff9dc95eceed7db9c77dfe2b13.jpg

Cleaned all the metal shavings and used the die grinder with a scotch brite disc to clean the gasket surface

41cc4e3fbb8f112156b91e419d6643ac.jpg

Same for the water pump, while I had the tool

bab423e3b9244638568341623dca3845.jpg

New gasket, genuine

da69800c51e6ba291a73f2ea6cfe2eee.jpg

And new bolts

ada30e52f60ee64c1e278036d62abfe4.jpg

15nm and onto the next bit

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a4aebcf28ab3151a6d31e689a6325d51.jpg

Let's tAke a brake from the engine and focus on getting cool, which in this time of the year doesn't sound fun but in the middle of august I'll be hopefully driving this thing, I want the a/c to work!

New condenser with new nuts and grommets, old fan still going strong

ce5786fc435c6f98d17c70b34abf8dc8.jpg

In place

67bb820688f7734e983dac8b9906dda8.jpg

Last minute addition, new r134a receiver dryer

da5bc64bce6bf5d869b1f2e08a47f7d6.jpg

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I reused all the orings, they didn't leak and the new parts didn't come with any. They're easy to change, not to worry.

Back to the v8, the refurbed starter in place

29ec83438c130716af2fd90c06668343.jpg

And the alternator with the cooling duct

d393bc3f4571a6787896a8aff8fdc658.jpg

Speaking of cooling, the new water pump is next

Cross pipe first, looks new but it isn't, new gaskets and bolts, 10nm

febd703128a0172fe7c46e5658ff07f2.jpg

Then the cooling lines with new orings (ripped one during fitting, I realized once all the engine was back together, and had to redo all the intake, fun)

998b0c55efa2c7e7e2ae725641443f3d.jpg

In the picture you can se the new knock sensors (£150, ouch)

Forgot to take a picture of the new pump in place, sorry.

And then a whole lot of greasy stuff like refitting the intake with the almost new pcv valve, new bolts all round, new gaskets and orings as well as new hose clamps. Radiator and fan back on, the repaired exhaust on with new gaskets and new stainless bolts, I had to rush because it was getting dark.

Plugged all the harness back in, hope its right..

Here's a shot of the engine back together

f9942df29447f502e36822312908a80f.jpg

It's all done ! No more parts laying around, it's all it and plugged in.

But is it running ?

no

I wired something upside down or forgot a ground somewhere, will look into it, it was late on Sunday night when we finished.

Lots of lessons learned, and quite excited to hear the sound of a clean running engine.

Coming soon !

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That was pretty intense! Must've been good to see things as they are in the last shot.

Sent from my Vodafone Smart ultra 6 using Tapatalk

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i've been there a step back normally gets the memory going. Hows the MAF original? A new one might help the ponies/torque general running 

 

Thats full motorsport on the A/C O rings! some pag oil would help and they are only pence the seals but you maybe fine and gas tight so i'll stop

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Never changed the Maf, will look into one but I have to get the car running first. It cranks really slow, I thought it just was a bad battery bud does the same with a brand new one, it's probably the wiring on alternator or starter.

You're right on the orings but I just didn't check my parts, I thought all the new bits had prima with them and I later found out they didn't

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The car finally runs folks. The new starter solenoid turned out to be the wrong one, it was given as a direct replacement from woodauto, but it clearly wasn't.

Swapped that over, cleaned the spark plugs, charged the battery and after a whole lot of cranking the beast finally came back to life !

5ad7e71375a4ec7639eb41b274e4d14d.jpg

a88855c07ac500c9152ddf14f6a43c1a.jpg

I'm in love with it again!

There's still something to tweak, the idle is still not so smooth, the exhaust blows slightly at the backbox, I still need to rebuild the handbrake and sunroof and the sills have to be sorted.

Once that's done I'll look into some staggered style 5s and she'll be done !

ACS Type 2 up for swaps people!

urquattro likes this

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Great news ! Nearly there !

 

 Did you change  the throttle

Sensor ? 

Edited by Carl-e34

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I haven't actually, do you think it could have anything to do with the unstable idle ?

At first I thought it was the MAF sensor playing up, but disconnecting it upsets the idle even more, that means that it is working.

Carl-e34 likes this

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14 minutes ago, Mazz said:

I haven't actually, do you think it could have anything to do with the unstable idle ?

At first I thought it was the MAF sensor playing up, but disconnecting it upsets the idle even more, that means that it is working.

 

It's an issue that a faulty sensor can

cause I'm looking into changing mine

 during the year TBL has done over 200k

So most of the sensors on mine are past their best.

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I'll write down a simple list of things that I've done to the car so far, maybe I'll put it in first page so I can update it as I go.

 

Engine:

 

-Oil pump job (all the bolts back in, torqued down to spec)

-valley pan gasket, genuine BMW

-coolant crosspipe gaskets (acquablasted crosspipe)

-water pump, new orings

-BMW thermostat housing

-Bosch knock sensors x4

-exhaust manifold gaskets x4 (blasted manifolds, painted silver vht)

-new exhaust donut gaskets x4

-intake manifold gaskets x4

-cleaned intake manifold, hex bolts all round

-cleaned throttle body and ASC tb

-genuine PCV valve, new orings for the transfer pipe

-cleaned ICV

-alternator voltage regulator, new brushes

-rebuilt starter motor

-replaced engine mounts

-new ancillaries belts

-timing chain tensioner

-new a/c condenser

-new a/c receiver dryer

 

 

Routine maintenance:

 

-NGK BKR6EK spark plugs

-Shell Helix HX7 engine oil

-BMW oil filter

-BMW air filter

-BMW fuel filters

 

Brakes:

 

-WezMoto steel braided lines all round, new copper lines on trailing arms

-Shell super dot4 fluid

 

Exterior:

 

-installed genuine headlights

-Thule aeroprofil roof bars

 

when purchased the car had some work done to it, some of the stuff remains on the car today

 

-AC Schnitzer Type 2 wheels, 17x8.5, made by Ronal, set of five.

-AC Schnitzer 3 spoke leather steering wheel

-Straight through exhaust center section with 2.5in decat pipes

-Remus Ac Schnitzer backbox

-AC Schnitzer shock absorbers all round

-deleted SLS rear suspension

-Unknown lowering springs

-3.15 210mm LSD

-Alko tow hitch, helps when strangers rearend you without notice.

-banging stereo, one of the best bits !

 

i think that's it !

 

 

 

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