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WickRatson

Rick's E28 V8 Build

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Don't faph around with a flap wheel if you are going to do it properly which I can see you a seriously doing, go and buy a stainless steel cone brush for your 4" angle grinder. If there is any chance that there is a hole anywhere behind any rust this tool will find it.

There is also the knotted type wire cone or wheel for the grinder but this tool is really brutal, absolutely no prisoners, once you have finished you are guaranteed to have only good metal left.

Just a tip I was nearly in tears the first time I used one because I had idea what the result would be, i thought I was dealing with something similar to yours. I Shit myself there was whole bits of car coming off, if it was not absolutely solid, if there was any sort of weakness this thing just ripped it out like tissue paper. Only then will you know what you are truly dealing with.

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+1 for the Twist Knot Wire Cup Brush.

Machine Mart carry a good range for a modest price.

In a previous life I used to have a 6 inch brush on a 9 inch angle grinder that would transform a 90 square feet ship's salt water corroded bare steel Magazine deck back to a mirror finish in a couple of hours, it was a beast!

These brushes are the "Mutts Nuts" but they come from the Lawrence of Arabia school of prisoner taking "No Prisoners"!

Regards,

Mick

post-52342-0-36448900-1429010668.jpg

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Folks, fantatasic advice. Can't are hate it enough! I've decided to strip all fuel lines tonight to make sure I get the hole area exposed so I know what I'm dealing with all over. And I actually think I have one of these twisted wire deals! More updates tonight folks...

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Sorry for the lack of update folks! Past few nights I've been fighting with a number of issues!

Due to work I'm having to take a 7 week sabatical. I'be got a course down in Norfolk..type.. area place. Nothing I can do about it I'm afraid! However when I'm down in England, I'm getting my hands on a lot of interior kit, and a LSD from Duncan. If I can afford it.. I'll be bringing up a done car with the 4.4 v8!!

When im back, I'm getting a friend of mine to show me how to weld, so this will be planned in when I get back. So the rear sub area can be painted up and built up already!

The handbrake cables are still stuck in the chassis. This will most likely be cut out, and weld in new handbrake "pipes". New cables are only 15 quid or so, so I don't mind replying them entirely.

a lot of the fuel lines are still in place. The wee screws are giving me jip. They'l be drilled out when I'm back up!

Just like to say to everyone, that's already for the advice you've all given me. Really appreciated.

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Bad news tonight guys...

 

Needs a fair amount of welding :(

 

20150413_192931.jpg

 

Can these bolts be taken out? I can find a part number of "33323628167" I cant see how looking at the to of these mounts. To be quite frank i cant weld, and i think this is a terrible weld to to start learning....

 

This one has the bush that's well and truly seized but doesnt seem to bad, i could put some rust preventative on this and im sure it would not be an issue, but im not 100% i would be happy about it.

 

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Also this little hole...

 

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The picture of the "good side". That is bad. It is double skinned and the rust ring you can see extends underneath the good metal.The metal around the mounting needs to be removed to repair or replace the metal layer underneath. If you do the good side first you will see how it is constructed. There are three layers, the top layer houses the captive bolt of the mounting.

The bolt may seem that it does not want to come out but it is one of the few times that you can use your big f*****g hammer on your car. The bolt head may be covered by a layer of the bitumen underseal. Driving the bolt upwards will push it through the underseal. The bolts are not expensive and I would suggest replacing them.

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Haha, when I described it as a good side, I mearly ment it's marginaly better than the other! Haha.

Interesting to hear it's three layers. I presumed it was two. Thanks for your help here its really appreciated. My plan is when I'm back from a course I'm on, (19th june) I'm going to get an experienced welder to carry out a full replacement of both of these mounting points. Hopefully to learn in the process to. I've taken a full week off to catch up with all the work to. So all rusty metal will be gone, both bolts will be replaced.

In my mind though, if taking out all three sheets of metal I might have to come up with a funky jig to make sure alignment is correct?

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You may not have to remove all three layers. Remove the first layer around the mounting and you will see how the second layer is and go from there. If you do have to remove a lot a jig would be straight forward. A length of box section with two holes drilled at the spacing of the two mounting bolts. Put your two mounting bolts through the box section. If you drill one hole about 14mm and the top around 16mm your bolt should be an interference fit just like in the car.  This can then be fitted inside with the bolts in the old holes and the box section fixed inside the car by tack welds or bolted. You can then cut away without affecting the location of the bolt. I made one from 40x40mm steel which can be used  below to support the car without a crossmember. The idea should be easily adaptable to inside the car.

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If the bolts are well stuck heat up the surrounding area, you want plenty of heat soak, then slide a shroud over the bolt and open up a can of whoop arse freeze spray into the shroud to freeze the bolt and whack it with a big arse copper mallet. 

 

Do not put the nut back on the bolt and hit it, tempting but NO!

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Folks, your advice is fantastic. I'm really down at the moment as I cant get hand on with the car. Being on a course 500 miles away is bugging me!

But honestly, thanks for the advice folks. Both of you, really appreciated. As soon as I'm back all I need to do is strip a bit more underseal, remove fuel lines all the way to the front, and then crack on with this welding!!

Edited by WickRatson

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Update as of 16/06/15.

Sorry for the 7 week break! I'm back on it. I've not been lazy the past 7 weeks though. I've been buying many many new toys! And have made a little progress on the car itself.

First of I've aquired a fair amount of parts from duncan-uk. I've always wanted to have a black interior with leather seats. Colour to be kept a secret as of now. I've managed to aquire all the black interior trim I need from duncan-uk. Good to meet a fellow e28 er btw. Ages back I managed to source mtech seats from Tim. They are god awful but will be great after a retrim.

Next job is welding. I can't weld. I want to weld though. I'm currently trying to line up a decent welder. Hopefully in the next week or so I shall have progress on this. I've sourced the rear subframe bolts from cotswolds. £6 each! £1.30 for the nuts... I'm going down the powerflex route (I know, controversial) so we shall see how that goes.

That reminds me. I've got to powdercoat the subframe and rear trailing arms. Anyone got tips on removing hubs/bearings?

I also picked up a LSD from Duncan to! Painted up, fresh oil. Can't go wrong.

Time to get stuck in!

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17/06/15

 

Okay so i really need to get round to doing the rust. As far as i know, i have both rear mounts need replacing. I have one minor bit to replace in the  P/S Rear wheel arch. And two floor plans. They dont look tooooo bad.

 

So while i wait to line somebody to teach me how to weld, whilst welding, I decided to crack on taking panels off on the front, as you all probably know you need to take bumpers off ect to get to the fenders. I thought it would be easyer to assess the floor pans.

 

I know you all like pictures so here goes.

 

These look okay, I'm going to dismantle them, polish them up and powder coat the frame.

20150616_134510.jpg

 

You can see a small chip in the glass, i baught a set of second hand ones from tim with the glass in okay nick, I'll be swapping it over soon.

 

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These grills are a bugger! Those plastic screws i hate. I need to replace the kidney grills as i got a little frustrated. The grills them selves are actually in good nick, i might just clean them and put them back on. Or paint them matt black? Unsure..

 

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Finally got all me tools in one place!

 

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Great nick, but i cant help but think i want to get them re chromed. Has anyone done this? I dont just wanna buy new. There getting scarse ive heard.

 

 

 

Okay so, taking the fenders off are a right PITA. i had a mate helping me out today so it wasnt so bad. Heating the sealant up and praying i dont buckle the dam thing. Passanger side is okay, its opened up to some rust, but i do think its just surface rust.

 

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Looks okay ATM

 

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I Really do need to relplace this.

 

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So i moved onto the other side. *sigh* This is the front section of the sill. On the drivers side.

 

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The fender itself is OK but the bottom i had to abuse to remove. Quite easy to weld new metal in it though.

 

20150617_123918.jpg

 

And thats it for today folks. Gotta go to work tonight. :???:

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M62B44 sourced from 535I-MAN! Should have it by next week...

Asking for a bit of advice folks. Are there any technical manuals how to rebuild a M62 engine? A friend who rebuilt his Toyota had a fantastic genuinely rebuild book. I'm after the same. Is it on TIS?

And captain beaKy. The 528 has your name on it for Mear penny's as you asked! Should have it out by the end of august.

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Cheers young man, wait to hear from you.

 

Do i spy a broken M5 Chin Spoiler on your front valance?

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No problems bud.

To be quite honest, it might be salvageable. I didn't have a good look at it. I fancy the same as what you have on a previous thread on here! Can't remember what you called it. But I really want it to look stock ish. And I'm not sure about the mtech route.

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That's Bentley as in the author, not Bentley the car brand.

Yea I know, cheers! I have one for the e28.

And dunc if that's the case I'm all over it! Thanks for that.

Edited by WickRatson

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