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WickRatson

Rick's E28 V8 Build

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Hello all, i thought i would start a project thread. I'd like to use this thread to maximize some exposure on parts needed, and hopefully in the next two years make it quite a good read. I'm open to any advice absolutely anyone would like to give on doing a E28 project. I absolutely don't mind criticism! Just bear in mind, this is my first build! so be gentle. :-P

I do also have an idea of how the final product will look. My aim, is to recreate a M5 of the era, how i would of made it. A dream M5 of the day so to speak. I would love to make it as "stock" looking as possible. I'm not going to go mental on styling, just a roody big bee under the bonnet! Here goes...

Parts needed.

  • Doner car (m62b44)
  • stand alone ECU for M62
  • Manual gearbox to fit v8 (530?)
  • Black Interior. (Retrim to be done at the end)
  • Instrument cluster (a working one)
  • LSD(Parts and advice needed)
  • Coilovers/Decent road suspension setup
  • Mtec bodykit. Maybe.

The car - BMW E28 528i

The car is a 1987 528i. It was a one owner from new when i bought it, with 127K on the clock. With a pacific blue interior. I believe the man owned a engineering firm of sorts in Sheffield, and used it as a company car. i bought it from a trader of sorts selling it on behalf of the daughter as the gentleman passed away.

 

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In the Bay..

 

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All plastics are looking very tired. All panels very straight though.

 

Honking metric wheels, I have BBS RS090's to replace them with. Currently getting refurbed.

Something else to note, i took a magnet to me to the sale. I cant find any filler in the prone areas.

 

One thing to note, the rear end was shunted very slightly. Its damage looks quite minimal. Im hoping that one of these bumpers aint BIG money... I'd like to get a second hand and re-chrome. It also has a slight dent in the back wall. behind the numberplate. The lights were also smashed in the process. They have been replaced however.

 

Dented skirt, and the holey exhaust is hanging low due to the bump.

 

All looking fairly clean...

 

Not much rust down in the depths.

 

Edited by WickRatson

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So it begins!

 

My first thoughts are to hunt for rust. I'm not doing this rebuild in a way i would like, due to not quite having a stable long term base to carry out the rebuild. I do not own my own house, so a garage project is imposable!  I'm part of a motor club, and earning the right for a long term bay is proving harder than i first thought! Not an issue though, just need to get to the point of a rolling shell...

 

I thought it would be a good idea due to this fact, is getting the carpet up and look for rust in the floor pan. stripping the interior wasn't to much of a hassle. I'm finding a layer of what i think is rust prevention layer, and all the metal in the corners are looking very painted. No rust to be seen from the inside...yet!

 

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Half way through..

 

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Glad thats out!

 

My phone died at this point. More pics to follow tomorrow!

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Looks a nice solid base car Ricky

 

Looking at your pictures what I would say to you is at this point any old car should be treated like you are doing up an old house, make them water tight first before tarting them up.

 

Get everything out, kick panels, door cards, strip the boot etc and absolutely soak it, drown the bugger and check for water transgression.

 

Most importantly get the head lining lose and look at the sunroof cassette by far one of the biggest weak points, check the drain outlets and the pipework because when they leak the water gets to the sill ends front and rear, boot well and front foot wells and they rot out.

 

If you want to go balls and all paint or treat the underside of the roof because BMW never done it and once you get a leak on the cassette you get condensation on the underside and they rot inside to out as you see on many E30's 

 

A nice touch is to change the headlining to black

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should of used a lesser car for build and kept that as was, 

thats my 2p!

Must admit, I did wonder that myself. Be interesting to see where the values are for an original 1 previous owner 528i as mint as this in 5 years time. You might regret messing with it, but it's your car so of course, do what you want with it.

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Must admit, I did wonder that myself. Be interesting to see where the values are for an original 1 previous owner 528i as mint as this in 5 years time. You might regret messing with it, but it's your car so of course, do what you want with it.

 

I agree with you and jimmy, it is a bit of a shame. Its not all bullet proof, i have already found rot in the foot wells. But all in all, i am slightly mad! But i have this vision, and I'm going for it. This is the only car i found, under 2K, with some MOT left that wouldn't fall to bits on the drive home to inverness.

 

Looks good. Currently have most of the parts your after too ;)

 

Lets talk! what parts in particular?

 

Looks a nice solid base car Ricky

 

Looking at your pictures what I would say to you is at this point any old car should be treated like you are doing up an old house, make them water tight first before tarting them up.

 

Get everything out, kick panels, door cards, strip the boot etc and absolutely soak it, drown the bugger and check for water transgression.

 

This is my idea, interior came out, tonight ive had the thing on axle stands, gonna pop out tomorrow and get some underseal removal stuff. Wire wheels maybe.

 

 

Most importantly get the head lining lose and look at the sunroof cassette by far one of the biggest weak points, check the drain outlets and the pipework because when they leak the water gets to the sill ends front and rear, boot well and front foot wells and they rot out.

 

I didn't think of this. I knew i might have a problem with the drainage, as it does have a sunroof unfortunately.

 

If you want to go balls and all paint or treat the underside of the roof because BMW never done it and once you get a leak on the cassette you get condensation on the underside and they rot inside to out as you see on many E30's 

 

A nice touch is to change the headlining to black

 

Both great idea's. Defiantly getting done.

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Lets talk! what parts in particular?

More what I haven't got, sadly I'm breaking my m535i so interior, most of body kit, diff etc etc is all available. Pm me a list if you like.

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Anyway, got a little done over the weekend. Noticed a bad bit of rust...

 

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Screwdriver'd about a bit...

 

 

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I noticed the jacking point to be a bit rusty to! I shall be getting the underseal back up and rust cleaned off tomorrow, Seems to be a bugger to do this? Ive got a heat gun and scraper, and a wire wheel attachment on a drill seems to be working so far.. I should have more horrid pics tomorrow.

 

I decided to see if there is any rust towards the back, i decided to start stripping the back off entirely just leaving a rolling shell, i got the car jacked up, axle stands under, and removed the exhaust. Then CV arms, and then the Diff.. .

 

 

The driveshaft!

 

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You can see how rusty the drain plug is? yeah!

 

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The only 3/8 or 10mm hex bit i had at the time was a 1/4 drive. Didnt go down well...

 

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ended up having to go buy a new 10mm hex set from laser. So far i do like laser tools. ended up having to use a big breaker bar to shift it.

 

Cv's out! Easy, wasnt so corroded

 

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Will i be able to reuse this in the final car? Even if im wanting to put a v8 300 ish bhp moter in it? I cant see why not for now, but i somehow think the these may be rated to a torsional stiffness? But then the M5 was 289 and im guessing its the same part.

 

At this point i had to help a mate out with a sticky caliper on a crappy pug. So i never managed to get the diff out, or exspose the rust!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Sorry for no reply for the past few days. Been busy on the car itself! I've had some real issues!

 

I cant get the ABS sensor out.. I've ran out of penetrating spray.

 

The handbrake beat me. So i need entirely new parts for a handbrake system.

 

Half of one of the subframe bushes is seized into place, I have a pic to explain this...

 

 

So i decided that with a friend i can get the diff and sub frame assembly off. First started with the ARB. Need new ones. Any recommendations? The ST set looks good to me.

 

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All the brake unions! (after bleeding of course...)

 

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Calipers off, seem in good nick, i was confused that was no handbrake cable going to it. I later realized when i took the disc off that its on the inside! This gave me a bit of an issue. How do i remove the handbrake cable? I decided that that you can not bring the leaver on the end of the cable through the hub as its just to big, and i cant work out how to remove the pin that holds the cable to the leaver. I decided that the entire system is ridiculous and got rather grumpy with it. Its not in two pieces... The cable shield going into the chassis is rather rusty, and wont come out, i cant work out whether it screws out or pulls out.. Either way i shall be buying a new cable, and fabricating a new shield, as i really do think its crap and i might be able to make better.

 

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Looking tidy enough thought!

 

The ABS sensor just will not come out! :(:mad:

 

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shocks out! No rust here...

 

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Interestingly in that photo, part of the chassis is read.. i wonder if it was a different color! Probs just a primer..

 

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and its out! i do have a massive issue now though.

 

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A fair amount of rust on one side...

 

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Uhh ohhh...

 

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Tomorrow i shall remove all the bushes from trailing arms, and subframe. Gonna be a hell of a job thought :( then start stripping back the underseal and rust to see what i'm left with!

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Duuuude yes! btw what's the dealo with how much torque those things can handle? It will be able to handle a m62b44 right? I'm sure I've read it can... but the thought popped into my mind today!

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Bad news tonight guys...

 

Needs a fair amount of welding :(

 

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Can these bolts be taken out? I can find a part number of "33323628167" I cant see how looking at the to of these mounts. To be quite frank i cant weld, and i think this is a terrible weld to to start learning....

 

This one has the bush that's well and truly seized but doesnt seem to bad, i could put some rust preventative on this and im sure it would not be an issue, but im not 100% i would be happy about it.

 

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Also this little hole...

 

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Hi WickRatson,

 

You will need to take the rear seat base out to access these bolts heads, if you haven't already done so.

 

If I remember correctly these two bolts have a "serrated teeth" pattern on the underside of the head that locks into a corresponding "Serrated teeth" pattern on the inside of the body fitting.  This body fitting also has an up stand around the bolt head that prevents you putting a spanner on the bolt head.

 

They need to be pushed upwards, in order to disconnect the "serrated teeth", rather than being rotated like a conventional nut and bolt.  Try putting the nut back on the end of the bolt, to protect the thread, and using a wooden block with a BFO hammer to start the bolt upwards.

 

If space prevents you from being able to swing the hammer effectively then a trolley jack with a wooden block can be used to drive the bolt upwards.  You may have to give the head of the bolt a good "Jolt with a hammer and drift from above, with some upward force on the jack, in order to start the bolt.  Be careful if you use this method and the car is on jacks / axle stands as it is a balancing act and you are upsetting the balance.  If you inadvertently lift the car off of the jacks / stands with the bolt jack then when the bolt lets go and jumps upwards the car will go back down onto the jacks / stands, which could have moved and the car keeps on going down to the floor.  Bottom line is if you are unsure about the nature and safety of this practise then don't do it.

 

Good luck with your tear down, it is good to see people getting up close and personnel with their car.  Your thread may well help inform others and give them the confidence to attempt this for themselves and is a good way for sharing the collective knowledge that the Forum possesses.

 

Regards,

 

Mick

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