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What did you do to your E60/61 today?

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Checked coolant this morning (last checked on Sunday) and found it was nigh on a litre down. Saw tell tale signs that my EGR thermostat was leaking. Bought a new one today in case it had failed, only to find the seal had melted some how . . .  . so i replaced the seal and refitted the old thermostat. After it was checked and there was no leaks i did the bleed screw back up, only for the head to shear off. Which then meant i had to fit the new one anyway :evil: not a hard job, or expensive. But incredibly frustrating. 

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Whilst driving home I felt like I was driving in a horse and cart, I was bouncing around the cockpit and felt and heard every bump in the road then notice the suspension light had come on....NIGHTMARE!!!

So pulled over to see if I could do anything before calling the RAC, so started with the basics and pulled the fuse and bingo blown, but the only fuse available was a 30 and not the 40 that had blown but done the trick.

The ride was much smoother BUT the Suspension light remains on...WHY???? 

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Finally after months I have found the rattle when I go over small bumps or drive at low speed, I had stripped the back of the E61 out today and still couldn't find the bastard. Then pushed and pulled on the boot and noticed a click. Turns out the stoppers on each side are adjustable from inside, a full turn of each and finally silence!

 

20181024_143526.jpg

 

I also took the anti roll bar off during this quest and decided to flap wheel it back to bare metal removing all the rust, now to find a powder coater.

Edited by GoNz0

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30 minutes ago, GoNz0 said:

Finally after months I have found the rattle when I go over small bumps or drive at low speed, I had stripped the back of the E61 out today and still couldn't find the bastard. Then pushed and pulled on the boot and noticed a click. Turns out the stoppers on each side are adjustable from inside, a full turn of each and finally silence!

 

20181024_143526.jpg

 

I also took the anti roll bar off during this quest and decided to flap wheel it back to bare metal removing all the rust, now to find a powder coater.

 

Try hammerite paint.

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On 10/22/2018 at 10:48 PM, Chubby56 said:

Whilst driving home I felt like I was driving in a horse and cart, I was bouncing around the cockpit and felt and heard every bump in the road then notice the suspension light had come on....NIGHTMARE!!!

So pulled over to see if I could do anything before calling the RAC, so started with the basics and pulled the fuse and bingo blown, but the only fuse available was a 30 and not the 40 that had blown but done the trick.

The ride was much smoother BUT the Suspension light remains on...WHY???? 

Did the back of the car drop or pump all the way up..

I presume drop because of the fuse blowing, the compressor may have sucked in a load of crap and is on its way out.

Mine pumped itself as high as it can go and that was because the control box got a good salty soaking from water falling off about 200kg of ballast i picked up the day before, I had to get a new controller

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4 wheel alignmnet take 2!!! Took it in a few weeks ago and the guy noticed my rear toe in on the passenger side had the wrong type bolt holding it together, it had been bodged with a standard hex nut/bolt at some point in the past for one reason or another.  So got half an alignment done before he got to that part!!  Anyway back today and the correct bolts were fitted and full alignment done! Wasnt toi far out, but a fair bit of it was tweeked last time.

Also bit the bullet and put on my winter wheels, mostly because my rear summer tyres were looking a little bald!  Wont be buying Goodyear Eagle asymetric 3s again thats for sure, barely got 12000 miles over 7 months out of them on the rear.

20181026_180933.jpg

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Replaced the tailgate part of the lock as it was causing intermittent problems. 

The tailgate wiring had all been done by me previously so I knew it wasn't that

Symptoms were:

Not opening

Soft close motor not functioning correctly

Rear load area lights staying on. 

Rear load cover release not working on opening tailgate. 

 

The lock motor/sprung return/switch unit attached to the tailgate side of the lock was faulty. 

I removed and opened it up and think it was a combination of a lazy motor and dodgy microswitch. 

Cleaning and lubricating had it working for a day or so but the symptoms returned. 

Ebay and £15 later and all done and functioning perfectly. 

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Just got a new G30 530D M Sport as my hire car for the next couple of days!!  Have to say, very impressed, very nice to drive, and whilst I love my E60 this is something else!!  Probably my only complaint, the new Idrive is a nightmare to get around compared to the CCC!  Its like flying the bloody space shuttle with the ammount of knobs and buttons!!

If only I had a spare 45k lying around I would maybe treat myself!!

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20181030_084904.jpg

Edited by Modge

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Re-tightened the front calliper bolts. When I changed the front brakes, the bolts have corrosion on the threads, and squeaked as you did them up. 

 

I added a few drops of oil to the threads which is the opposite of what you want you do, but the chalky dust needed something.  

 

The calliper started knocking at crawl speeds when braking (parking etc) and the bolts needed tightening. 

Any suggestions for next time? 

Edited by Deviant

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Coolant was leaking from EGR stat so replaced the o ring (need to get the yellow HNBR). Also, replaced the coolant after five years. These drain plugs are made of cheese.

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7 hours ago, Deviant said:

Re-tightened the front calliper bolts. When I changed the front brakes, the bolts have corrosion on the threads, and squeaked as you did them up. 

 

I added a few drops of oil to the threads which is the opposite of what you want you do, but the chalky dust needed something.  

 

The calliper started knocking at crawl speeds when braking (parking etc) and the bolts needed tightening. 

Any suggestions for next time? 

 

 Maybe use a little thread lock ... I replaced the bolts on one of our 540's with new BMW items, those had thread lock on them.  

Edited by Carl-e34

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22 minutes ago, Carl-e34 said:

 

 Maybe use a little thread lock ... I replaced the bolts on one of our 540's with new BMW items, those had thread lock on them.  

 

Tempting, but I couldn't get the bolts undone as it were. 

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1 minute ago, Deviant said:

 

Tempting, but I couldn't get the bolts undone as it were. 

 

Could the brakes have been changed before in damp conditions which resulted in the bolts being corroded?

 I imagine thread lock would help protect the bolt thread from corrosion 

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17 minutes ago, Carl-e34 said:

 

Could the brakes have been changed before in damp conditions which resulted in the bolts being corroded?

 I imagine thread lock would help protect the bolt thread from corrosion 

 

Aluminium corrosion was my thought. They were tight enough without thread locker which is why I didn't go that route.  

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Cleared a really annoying restraint/airbag system fault that was doing my head in.  Big thanks to @Deviant for the reccomendation to try the Carista app with my OBD2 module, got it on a free 7 day trial too so never cost me anything!! If I remermber to cancel it before next week anyway! :)

Edited by Modge

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Fitted an 11 month old genuine BMW 90ah AGM battery for £75, it charges to 98% so very happy! (Old one works fine but 73% and as winter is coming it would be rude not to)

Installed 2019-1 map, no code needed as the lifetime FSC I generated last time worked.

Replaced the fuse covers after thinking the car had a line 15 problem that turned out to be caused by a modified DLL on my laptop to detect clamp states :oops:

Edited by GoNz0

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On 25/10/2018 at 09:16, Blobby said:

Did the back of the car drop or pump all the way up..

I presume drop because of the fuse blowing, the compressor may have sucked in a load of crap and is on its way out.

Mine pumped itself as high as it can go and that was because the control box got a good salty soaking from water falling off about 200kg of ballast i picked up the day before, I had to get a new controller

The suspension dropped again and the drive home was spine crushing agony! checked the fuse again but that was fine so had to rethink the problem and concluded the relay may be duff and my suspicion was correct...FRied electrics caused by the dreaded water problem.

IMG_0663.jpeg

IMG_0662.jpeg

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replaced my factory fitted 80Ah with this by BMW specialist and registered. Came home home and read CAS it was still showing 80AH changed it to 90ah age. what else do I need to do?

IMG_5763.HEIC

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If you change the type it will have reset it anyway, so long as you set AGM it will be fine. Same battery I picked up this month, 11 months old for £75, proper chuffed :)

Edited by GoNz0

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