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What did you do to your E60/61 today?

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20 minutes ago, GoNz0 said:

1st dabble with coding today, I couldn't line the pockets of Carly as everything they offer seems to be for an additional fee so I read up on NCSexpert and now my mirrors fold with key fob locking/unlocking & the passenger mirror dips in reverse (randomly provided the switch it set to drivers side but close enough)

handy little feature the mirror fold coding, another one I found useful was coding out the voltage check for the reverse led's i fitted, they used the strobe like a police car on start on before which is a bit embarssing

 

 

Edited by mike.

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3 hours ago, mike. said:

 

handy little feature the mirror fold coding,

 

 

I'd just rather just fold them when I need to. For example no need to fold them when arriving at home parking up at the house for example. No need to put unnecessary wear and tear on the motor and mechanism, just wears them out faster.

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8 minutes ago, Tuvoc said:

 

I'd just rather just fold them when I need to. For example no need to fold them when arriving at home parking up at the house for example. No need to put unnecessary wear and tear on the motor and mechanism, just wears them out faster.

Simple enough, just tap the lock button and they don't fold as I left a 1 second delay before they fold. Beats going back inside the car to fold them when I forget and risk some tosser taking off a mirror with a £280 glass in it :(

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Went up to London last week in the car. I hadn't started it in over 3 weeks and the battery I know is a little weak. It did turn over a lot slower then it used to but it fired up OK with no warning lights or bongs which surprises me when I read threads on here about systems not working properly because the battery is slightly suspect..

 

The only thing on mine which is fugged is the Sat Nav which stops working when the interior is nice and warm, so I have to keep ejecting the disc and putting it back in (I did run a lens cleaning disc on it a few months ago which did help a little)

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1 hour ago, Blobby said:

The only thing on mine which is fugged is the Sat Nav which stops working when the interior is nice and warm, so I have to keep ejecting the disc and putting it back in (I did run a lens cleaning disc on it a few months ago which did help a little)

 

Probably condensation, you need to drive it regularly.

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Fitted a new clutch and flywheel to the M5. 

 

Never had a problem with it and I did it as I had the parts sat on the shelf for the last 18months and I decided at 57k to replace it. 

 

I must say it's a different car, highly impressed with the difference. 

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12 hours ago, jake13 said:

 

Probably condensation, you need to drive it regularly.

It was doing the same in the summer, I think the laser is getting a b it knackered 

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1 hour ago, NeveraSkate said:

Fitted a new s5 battery and had it coded. 

No more stupid bings and bongs and electrical gremlins :D

I was very happy after I changed the battery and my radio stopped freezing, it was very annoying!

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3 hours ago, RightHandGoose said:

Look good......what type did you use????

Are these LCI headlights? I've upgraded my low beams to LED with Philips h7 bulbs and very happy with the results. Looking to do same on high beam but not sure if it would be possible as fixture for high beam is different.

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Looks better than mine. Just got left and right, both sides dipped beam failure. Doesn't sounds good to me, both sides at the same time.
To be continued....

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12 hours ago, RightHandGoose said:

Look good......what type did you use????

 

H7 mate. 

 

8 hours ago, JHR-5 said:

Are these LCI headlights? I've upgraded my low beams to LED with Philips h7 bulbs and very happy with the results. Looking to do same on high beam but not sure if it would be possible as fixture for high beam is different.

 

Normal halogen pre lci headlights

 

7 hours ago, xeorex said:

Looks better than mine. Just got left and right, both sides dipped beam failure. Doesn't sounds good to me, both sides at the same time.
To be continued....

 

 

Guys, 

To be honest I’m not really happy. Aesthetically yes is looking much better but when I drove the car this evening I couldn’t say that the result was good especially in wet serfuce.

The other think that I notice is that they don’t have a beam pattern. So there is a risk to fail on the next mot.

Now i would like to ask a equation those that they have install led bulbs on their cars. How the led bulbs do they need to be inside the lens? Leds facing left/right as per picture 1 or leds facing up/down as per picture 2? I'm asking because there is a big difference in light output.

 

IMG_2113.JPG

IMG_2116.JPG

Edited by Paris 530d

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8 minutes ago, Mo_1986 said:

@Paris 530d Hi, why not look out for some lci halogens? 

They are a great upgrade for those of us running a pre lci car.

 

Heres a pic of mine:

 

 

 

Looks really nice. is a good idea actually. did you had to change the light module as well or just the headlights?

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2 minutes ago, Paris 530d said:

 

Looks really nice. is a good idea actually. did you had to change the light module as well or just the headlights?

Had to change to lm2 which is good as you get extra features like drl's and welcome lights.

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On 20/12/2017 at 8:38 AM, GoNz0 said:

1st dabble with coding today, I couldn't line the pockets of Carly as everything they offer seems to be for an additional fee so I read up on NCSexpert and now my mirrors fold with key fob locking/unlocking & the passenger mirror dips in reverse (randomly provided the switch it set to drivers side but close enough)

Fancy having a go at coding my cruise control in? :wink:

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Got my 2 dipped light bulbs changed by my indi car mechanic. £18 later and both working.
Took my battery off and will get it charged using one of these, ordered today and should arrive tomorrow:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00604UABY/

Edited by xeorex

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10 hours ago, DaveR said:

Fancy having a go at coding my cruise control in? :wink:

I think finding the right guide helps, it did my head in until I read this one then I got my head around it.

 

You must have someone closer to Gloucester than me, used to be a 90 mile trip to go to the office there for my bloody van service when I worked for a company in Tewkesbury  :|

NCS TUTORIAL.pdf

Edited by GoNz0

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2 hours ago, xeorex said:

Got my 2 dipped light bulbs changed by my indi car mechanic. £18 later and both working.
Took my battery off and will get it charged using one of these, ordered today and should arrive tomorrow:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00604UABY/

You don't need to take it off, the ctek is designed to work with the battery connected, in fact the 5ah version is used by BMW as the official charger. If you are taking it off you ideally should run the battery down then use the recon program.

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Fitted 20mm spacers to the rear, 15 mm to the front, and then took the 15mm front off again when I discovered the hub on the side where it's been crashed isn't the same size as the one on the other side - so the spacer doesn't come close to fitting. New hub required!

Edited by Mashed Potatoes

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15 hours ago, GoNz0 said:

You don't need to take it off, the ctek is designed to work with the battery connected, in fact the 5ah version is used by BMW as the official charger. If you are taking it off you ideally should run the battery down then use the recon program.


That would be ideal when you can have a power line going out from your house to the car but not so much when it has to cross the council's pedestrian path.
How would you suggest to run the battery down? Is it even necessary or is this a "myth"? I'd suppose "recon" program means the reconditioning program?
Seems like a lot of questions. Just asking to get that right.

https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/182730/do-i-need-to-fully-drain-lead-acid-battery-before-charging-them

Edited by xeorex

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