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Found 3 results

  1. Big Will

    525iX won't start

    So I finally picked up my 1995 525iX touring about 3 weeks ago. The car is cosmetically in absolutely gorgeous shape with only 170K kms but had been off the road for the past 7 years as it was someone's project car in Germany. The dealer that was selling it had done some work (replacing fluids, spark plugs and exterior trim pieces, spraying on rust-proofing oil etc to keep it looking nice underneath). I had it inspected by Dekra in The Netherlands and they spent half a day with the car, driving it etc. and gave me their 9 page report. It needed new fuel lines, new rear brake pads and ideally the front shocks replaced because a little rust had formed on the pistons - from cracks in the strut boots), and a new AC compressor. The dealer and I came to a fair agreement where they did all the labor and I supplied the parts. I took the opportunity to upgrade the front suspension to the "sport" struts and springs and all new hardware. The fuel lines were replaced, new fuel filter and some brackets etc., new rear pads and rotors and parking brake hardware, new AC compressor and drier. After the work was done I went to pick up the car and began driving it back across Germany. What should have been a 5 or 6 hour trip turned into a 14 hour nightmare as the first time I stopped for a coffee the car wouldn't start! It cranked strongly but wouldn't get going. After a couple hours of trying on and off, it did until I had to stop for gas. I could hear the fuel pump priming and the battery seemed strong plus it had just driven over 200 kilometers so should have been charged up. When I finally got to my city, I got a warning message on the dash of a "brake light electric failure - see owner's manual" (in German) and apparently didn't have brake lights anymore. This would come and go over the next two days until I got stuck at a gas station, absolutely couldn't start the car and had to have the car towed to a repair shop. We tried starter fluid before towing it and that did not work. The car spent over 2 weeks at an A.T.U. repair shop. They initially diagnosed it as a fuel pressure regulator noting that they were getting much too high fuel pressure and replaced that with a BMW part. The car still didn't start. I then supplied them with a new BMW fuel pump relay and Motronic relay and a new Hella branded CPS which was what I thought the problem was. No luck. The repair shop said they were finally able to "access the computer" and that the problem is the car's immobilizer and only BMW can fix this. As an additional detail, I noticed that when the car first wouldn't start, when I tried unlocking the car, the alarm would go off. During the couple days I had the car where it would sometimes start, I replaced the batteries in the remotes but was unable to pair them to the car. The procedure did not work. Of course I could still unlock the car manually with the key. On Wednesday I had to have the car towed from this repair shop to the nearest BMW dealer. The dealer was given all the information as to what was done so far and spent yesterday trying to diagnose the problem. They claim to have their most experienced tech working on my car and so far he is stumped! Any ideas for this mystery? Sorry for posting another "e34 no start" thread, but I thought this might be interesting. After 3 weeks I can't even register my car because it can't go through the inspection like this to get normal license plates. UPDATE: BMW claims that the readings from the new Hella CPS are bad. They are going to replace it with a BMW sensor and see if it works. If not, they think it's the main computer...which I imagine is rather expensive. I come from the Volvo enthusiast side and that's really not normally a problem. Is that common with e34s?
  2. Hi, I have another post but it may be confusing so this may be a bit clearer (can mods please close the other thread please) I was driving home on the motorway from London and the car cut out on me - wouldn't start back up. Now the AA couldn't diagnose the codes on it's machine but a quick google - was relating to DPF/MAF/Crankshaft Sensor. Once car was towed - i hooked up my laptop with BMW ISTA/D and read the codes - Got the CAT/DPF taken off and sent away for cleaning (haven't connected it back up to the car yet) Changed the crankshaft sensor Car STILL wouldn't start. I was doing more checks with the software and ran some fuel tests - as soon as i ran that i got the error on iDrive - Fuel Pump Faulty! I've done some rail pressure checks / voltage checks but I can only make out some...RAIL Pressure looks very low compared to what is specified... I believe that voltage is going to the fuel pump but it's not supplying enough fuel to the rail pressure for the injectors to fire and start the engine. Where is the fuel pump relay location - i've looked in the boot / right hand side fuse box - can't see where i'm supposed to look I'm going to buy a fuel pump tonight so let's see! I've attached a few images - it's live data when i'm cranking the car. Would be great for some info.
  3. Hey all, So my eta 525e AUTO still refuses to start (from my previous threads). Changed almost all the ignition components, distributor cap, ECU, relays, sensors, etc etc. I still do not have any spark to the plugs hence a healthy turn over but no idle. So, i finally had a look into the bell housing where both the Speed sensor, and the Reference sensor are positioned. Because this was new to me when i first had the problem, i'm going to give as much detail as possible with the hope someone may stumble upon this thread in the future. The Speed and Reference sensors push into the bell housing of the gearbox between the torque converter and the flywheel/ring gear. They are both side by side on the nearside of the car, behind the airbox. They are both connected to the engine harness and these connectors can be accessed by removing the airbox and can be seen attached to the block side by side. Grey connector plugs into the sensor pushed into hole B and the black connector connectors to sensor pushed into hole D. Both sensors are the same part number (12141710668) and are interchangeable but you can not get the connectors confused as they must go to the correct sensor relative to the hole identified by B and D. This is what i can see when i look into the reference sensor hole and a i believe my trigger pin has snapped because everything else has been changed and i get quite funky results when the engine is turned over and a AC Volts are measured across the sensor. See Duncan's amazing guide on how to check this if you do not know already below. MASSIVE thanks to Duncan for this, has helped me and tonnes of other people. So the sensor that i discovered was faulty was the reference sensor, which goes into the hole closest to the road. The lowest hole. This sensor was absolutely shot, it had no resistance so was not detecting anything. I changed it for a working new one which i can confirm works as it was tested in a university lab using an oscilloscope. Correct resistance and AC sine wave replicated by a spinning neodymium magnet. This has not solved my issue so this is what i see when i look into the hole. I need help and peoples experienced opinion on this as its the first time i'm investigating it: Now analysing this photo, reveals to me.... this does not look right. Although it does not look aggressively snapped, it does not look long enough!? The only angle i could take the photo forces it to be taken bias to the front of the engine so you can even see the ring gear. If you look at it from the angle the sensor would read, you can barely see the pin! I've drawn out roughly what you would see if you looked at it head on.. So, does everyone agree that this does not look right? Has my pin snapped or is this normal? As the flywheel rotates, it will not swipe across the sensors face/tip. Also, an interesting observation i made of the old, faulty sensor backs up the theory that the pin has snapped. The old sensor has swollen out creating a dome to its face (interesting?...). There are also scrape marks on its face and a dent to suggest its been grinding against something. Wondering if anyone know about this, if they have changed a flywheel on these cars. As the engine rotates and you pass the trigger pin on the flywheel, you periodically come across large tabs of the flywheel that pass by the sensor which are NOT trigger pins. They are just large areas of the flywheel that match the length of the trigger pin. These have long scratches on them like the rust of the wheel has been removed. Long lines of exposed fresh metal as if the sensors swollen tip has made them. So, that is where i am at currently. What do people think? Is this enough to pull the transmission out and replace the flywheel? Has the trigger pin snapped off? Is this normal what i am showing and if so, where would my next area of investigation be? Is changing both sensors enough to move on and look elsewhere? ALL help and opinions are immensely appreciated, i really am stuck. I also hope some of this information will inspire someone else with the same problem and help them repair their own fault!! Kindest regards, Darren - From Brighton, UK
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