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Found 6 results

  1. e60

    Hi can anyone help me with the BMW E60, 530D, 2003-2010 Ignition wiring diagrams. I am trying to install a start push button. I was able to locate start position 2 and 12v power supply. I am not able to find the wires for the starter and the key in position 1
  2. Hey all, So my eta 525e AUTO still refuses to start (from my previous threads). Changed almost all the ignition components, distributor cap, ECU, relays, sensors, etc etc. I still do not have any spark to the plugs hence a healthy turn over but no idle. So, i finally had a look into the bell housing where both the Speed sensor, and the Reference sensor are positioned. Because this was new to me when i first had the problem, i'm going to give as much detail as possible with the hope someone may stumble upon this thread in the future. The Speed and Reference sensors push into the bell housing of the gearbox between the torque converter and the flywheel/ring gear. They are both side by side on the nearside of the car, behind the airbox. They are both connected to the engine harness and these connectors can be accessed by removing the airbox and can be seen attached to the block side by side. Grey connector plugs into the sensor pushed into hole B and the black connector connectors to sensor pushed into hole D. Both sensors are the same part number (12141710668) and are interchangeable but you can not get the connectors confused as they must go to the correct sensor relative to the hole identified by B and D. This is what i can see when i look into the reference sensor hole and a i believe my trigger pin has snapped because everything else has been changed and i get quite funky results when the engine is turned over and a AC Volts are measured across the sensor. See Duncan's amazing guide on how to check this if you do not know already below. MASSIVE thanks to Duncan for this, has helped me and tonnes of other people. So the sensor that i discovered was faulty was the reference sensor, which goes into the hole closest to the road. The lowest hole. This sensor was absolutely shot, it had no resistance so was not detecting anything. I changed it for a working new one which i can confirm works as it was tested in a university lab using an oscilloscope. Correct resistance and AC sine wave replicated by a spinning neodymium magnet. This has not solved my issue so this is what i see when i look into the hole. I need help and peoples experienced opinion on this as its the first time i'm investigating it: Now analysing this photo, reveals to me.... this does not look right. Although it does not look aggressively snapped, it does not look long enough!? The only angle i could take the photo forces it to be taken bias to the front of the engine so you can even see the ring gear. If you look at it from the angle the sensor would read, you can barely see the pin! I've drawn out roughly what you would see if you looked at it head on.. So, does everyone agree that this does not look right? Has my pin snapped or is this normal? As the flywheel rotates, it will not swipe across the sensors face/tip. Also, an interesting observation i made of the old, faulty sensor backs up the theory that the pin has snapped. The old sensor has swollen out creating a dome to its face (interesting?...). There are also scrape marks on its face and a dent to suggest its been grinding against something. Wondering if anyone know about this, if they have changed a flywheel on these cars. As the engine rotates and you pass the trigger pin on the flywheel, you periodically come across large tabs of the flywheel that pass by the sensor which are NOT trigger pins. They are just large areas of the flywheel that match the length of the trigger pin. These have long scratches on them like the rust of the wheel has been removed. Long lines of exposed fresh metal as if the sensors swollen tip has made them. So, that is where i am at currently. What do people think? Is this enough to pull the transmission out and replace the flywheel? Has the trigger pin snapped off? Is this normal what i am showing and if so, where would my next area of investigation be? Is changing both sensors enough to move on and look elsewhere? ALL help and opinions are immensely appreciated, i really am stuck. I also hope some of this information will inspire someone else with the same problem and help them repair their own fault!! Kindest regards, Darren - From Brighton, UK
  3. Hey guys Any one recently bought ignition coils from eurocarparts? I love their prices but some of the things I buy from them dont last sometimes.
  4. If you guys can help with this one I'd appreciate it. I've got an E60 2004 530D with 102k on the clock that has this intermittent fault. The strange thing is that the car will start as normal most of the time, but when there are temperature extremes, such as when the car has been parked in direct sunlight, or when really cold the main key ( or spare ) will not operate. Once the key is in the ignition & turned no lights come on.....just blank everything. The fob still operates the remote locking, so didn't think it was a battery issue. I have the diamond shaped key and it is non comfort access, so battery cannot be replaced without a DIY job on it. As it is intermittent, the car will start most of the time, but the message can appear whilst driving. I can use the valet key to operate the car as normal, but want to remedy the problem before something else happens and I get stranded. The other odd thing is that the "Remote Control" message comes on when I turn right, like round a roundabout. If anyone has had a similar problem or can suggest what the solution would be it would be a great help. Cheers Jon
  5. Hi all Noticed for about a month now, that when starting from cold in damp, or frosty conditions, she is very lumpy and rough as old boots for about 10 - 15 secs before settling into a reasonable idle. Once it even cut out moments after firing in a very un-German manner!!! She's fully serviced and runs and starts smooth all other times.......Is it just damp getting in, or is a known sinister issue?
  6. Hi everyone, have come to start my tds yesterday to no avail. as usual, i let the glow plug light go out and the car just sat turning the engine over but not firing. this only started yesterday. i thought it may be something to do with the immobiliser, but now am not too sure. i thought this because the battery in the fob was running low and would intermittently lock the car using the buttons but would unlock the car and the boot everytime. i have changed the battery in the fob and it now functions properly everytime, which ever button you press. problem is the car still will not start. i have plugged the diagnostic scanner in and it had 2 errors on the immobiliser which i have cleared and are no longer showing. if i press the throttle peddle down while turning the engine, it eventually fires but a minute later it cuts off again. at a loose end without the car so any help is appreciated. i thought it may be the fuel pump in the tank but i can see fuel running through the clear pipe on the fuel filter?? could it still be the fuel pump or could it be the ignition switch. this has only happened since the fob wouldnt lock the car yesterday. i locked it with the key and then when i came to use it it unlocked with the fob???