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Found 6 results

  1. High Pressure Fuel Pump

    Hi. My high pressure fuel pump went on my 535D E60 2009, just want to let you all know it's expensive to fix, I'd change it if you have high mileage. When it goes it puts small particles in fuel lines, tank and injectors. The fix was about £4k. You can get a recon second hand engine for less than that, about £3k, but the same could happen to that. So replace your pump!
  2. N53 Fuel Pump

    Just lately I've been getting an engine warning lamp on the dash of the E61... fault but no change in performance..... but then it's become the 'halved' engine icon with reduced power caption and distinct lack of power when accelerating. The only sensible code Carly came up with gave 'Fuel Pressure Plausibility' which, after some digging seems to indicate problems with a fuel pump. Apparently the N53 engine is known for failures of the high pressure fuel pump. However, the latest event happened as I left work tonight... Engine fault, reduced power, etc.... having put Carly on my phone I cleared all faults and the rough idle became a nice smooth purr. As I then went and fuelled up (from under 1/4 tank to full) on restart the idle was again smooth. The drive to and from Tesco was smooth and full power was available. My thinking here is... assuming there is a fuel pump problem, am I thinking high pressure pump (under manifold on engine) or given it was fine after refuelling, low pressure pump (in the tank with the filter unit) ? Thoughts ?
  3. Hi, I have another post but it may be confusing so this may be a bit clearer (can mods please close the other thread please) I was driving home on the motorway from London and the car cut out on me - wouldn't start back up. Now the AA couldn't diagnose the codes on it's machine but a quick google - was relating to DPF/MAF/Crankshaft Sensor. Once car was towed - i hooked up my laptop with BMW ISTA/D and read the codes - Got the CAT/DPF taken off and sent away for cleaning (haven't connected it back up to the car yet) Changed the crankshaft sensor Car STILL wouldn't start. I was doing more checks with the software and ran some fuel tests - as soon as i ran that i got the error on iDrive - Fuel Pump Faulty! I've done some rail pressure checks / voltage checks but I can only make out some...RAIL Pressure looks very low compared to what is specified... I believe that voltage is going to the fuel pump but it's not supplying enough fuel to the rail pressure for the injectors to fire and start the engine. Where is the fuel pump relay location - i've looked in the boot / right hand side fuse box - can't see where i'm supposed to look I'm going to buy a fuel pump tonight so let's see! I've attached a few images - it's live data when i'm cranking the car. Would be great for some info.
  4. Hi Guys, had a couple of months trouble free driving for a change and a week ago I went to start the car and it was completely dead! Think my daughter left the stereo on, so charged the battery now the car won't start, just turns over and over. The idrive now shows fuel pump fault, this is a new fault for me! I have stripped the back seat out and checked the in tank pump has power and its trying to do something. I need to check that fuel is getting to the rail but has anyone had this fault and fixed it? Found a few threads but no conclusions. Hope someone can help as I've nearly had enough of this car!!!
  5. Engine lost power, would not respond to accelerator, and came to an idle. Stalled, and would not restart. AA diagnosed head gasket with no oil in water, no water in the oil, no overheating. Mechanic diagnosed the diesel injection fuel pump, cos he knows I've been using a veg oil / diesel / petrol mix for the last 25,000 miles. The pump seals are not leaking. Fitted second-hand fuel pump, Boscg 0 406 460 995, identical to remoived pump: same problem, car won't start. White smoke at exhaust so we're getting unburnt fuel. Took off injectores, had them pressure tested. They're good. Refitted the injectors. After an hour of turning it over the car will reluctantly fire for two seconds, tapping accelerator will raise revs to 2300, then immediately engine stalls. Will not restart. Diagnostics reveal two Engine codes: Water coolant level sensor inoperative Air temperature sensor inoperative Baffled... any ideas?
  6. Hi everyone, I’ve just been out taking advantage of the loose traction from the recent snow fall here in Germany. On my way back I decided to full throttle on a snow-free piece of road only to discover no power This was 2nd gear and it would rev to 3000rpm max. So, I decided to stop. Switch it off and then on again. (Yeah this works with most computers and the e39 is a giant computer anyway) NO LUCK. The car was turning over, but no start. Not even a whiff. The girlfriend walked home (rather proudly wearing an AMG coat to get her car, 2 miles away. I stayed in the car searching on the internet for a possible resolution, and I’ve got to say, due to the brilliant people discussing problems and helping others out I learned that there are 3 fuel pumps on a 530d. As there was quite a lot of ice/snow build up under the car behind the wheels I decided to scrape this away and bang around with my hand where the fuel pump is under the passenger seat, After praying to the Bavarian gods and smacking the underneath of the car, it started!!!! It seems my pump is on its way out, so i will be looking at replacing this myself very soon. I will be checking on here for how-to-guides on how to replace this, but if anyone has any tips that would be much appreciated.
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