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Found 60 results

  1. d_a_n1979

    2006 730D maps update

    Thought I'd post this in here in case anyone knows I'd like to see if there's a 'latest' version of maps that I can update my system to; it has the Navi DVD unit in the boot and on the iDrive screen etc. As far as I can tell; it's the OEM original version Wondered if the iDrive unit and Navi system in mine is the same as the E60/E61s; so hoping from answers from that crowd
  2. Hi all, long time no post... Anyway, short story version. I went to look at an E61 530i Touring 6 Speed Manual 2007 LCI (269bhp) 110k miles 2 owners (mostly London commuting), plus a few extras from factory etc. Test driving and noticed a funny low end noise, I thought it was bottom end but later (after shooting the video) I realised that the knocking went away when the clutch was pressed in. That led me to Dual Mass flywheel issues but I don't know or what specific mechanisms are envolved or how they are malfunctioning (spring weights etc.). Most noticable heavy knocking on tickover and just after a little rev. Put the clutch in and it goes away. I thought the top end was a bit tappy, more than I would expect and I could detect the engine slightly rocking around. Is this normal for these tuned 530i LCI 2007 onward setups? Can any of you guys have a listen a see what you think, enlighten me? It goes well but this is the first 530i I've test driven. Booted it in 2nd n 3rd and noticed the performance below 3k RPM quite average, though I've never been that impressed with low end torque from BMW 6 cyl petrol engines. Up through 4k RPM and the magic starts to really happen, building nicely until I bail out at 6k RPM. Edit: Since found this useful informative video: Buying a used BMW 5 series E60, E61 - 2003-2010, Buying advice with Common Issues
  3. Hi everyone. Newbie here. I have a 530d e61 msport with partial electric heated seat pack. I am finding them uncomfortable on my lower back. Does anyone know if it's possible to retro fit lumbar support or change the seats for ones already fitted? If so is it an easy plug and play job?. Cheers
  4. Raptor101

    05 E61 Tailgate Woes!

    Folks, some of your collective advice please? I have an 05 E61 530D with 160k on the clock. A couple of years ago, having left the boot open for a day and running it down, the car failed to start. Battery recharged but was never the same running flat at inopportune moments so had it replaced by a local garage. Since then I've had a variety of issues that are related and some just coincidence some of which have been fixed and some still with me and despite doing a shedload of research I can't seem to pinpoint what may be the issue here. Problems I've had since then: No Bluetooth (greyed out box on iDrive screen). Poor FM reception. Battery drain message. Battery running flat. Random opening of tailgate glass. Failed rear wiper motor. No remote locking key reception - never slowly failed just stopped working one day. Alarm sounds on 50% of opening driver's door with key. Annoying. The rectifications I've completed in the intervening period are: New YUASA batt - correctly coded.The 2nd since I replaced the original 2 years back. IBS disconnected to check the batt drain message - no effect. New rear tailgate glass switch. Stopped the random opening of the glass lid. Both rear hinge wiring looms repaired professionally. O/S done with an aftermarket eBay loom from Germany. Several broken wires found but the fix didn't resolve any of the niggling issues. Removal of Diversity antenna - looks fine without any moisture/corrosion so was put back into position. Rear wiper motor replaced (I think that was just seizure due to position). FM antenna re-positioned under boot spoiler - FM reception now 80% of pre-failure standard. So I still no longer have any Bluetooth or remote central locking. After all my research the finger would be pointed at the Diversity antennna but that looks fine without anything obviously wrong with it. I cleaned it with electrical flux cleaning solution and refitted the cover. At 250 quid I'm loath just to buy another off ebay and hope for the fix. Can they be tested at all? Anyone know of any companies that provide this service? I would appreciate your collective advice as I'm getting rather tired of tghe endless electrical snags this car seems to throw up continually. Really takes the edge off owning a motor like this. Cheers
  5. Does any have the original owners manuals and pamphlets that would have come in a 2006 E61 Touring? Thanks
  6. So about 6 months ago I had a gearbox oil leak and sent it to a local Indy for repair and a gearbox service. Recently I’ve noticed when slowing down that sometimes it CLUNKS when going into first gear. It doesn’t seem to do it all the time, but when it does you can really feel it. From research online it seems that the solution is a gearbox service! Any other ideas? car has done around 100k miles thanks!
  7. Hi there, my E61 has just developed what what sounds like the common problem of broken/frayed wires in the loom to the tailgate. I've looked this up and thanks to some fairly comprehensive 'how to' guides (hats off to all who do these - you truly are heroes!) I'm comfortable with giving the repair a go myself but won't be able to find time/a warm garage for a week or so. In the meantime I have the annoying problem of the interior lights staying on after I've locked the car. I understand that this is because the car thinks the glass hatch is open and that the lights should eventually go off after 15 minutes but with regular use that sounds like a flat battery won't be far away. To avoid this I've removed the boot lights and am manually switching off the interior lights after I've opened the door but that's a bit of a pain and I was wondering if there is any easily accessible way of creating a circuit that allows the car to think all is well?
  8. Hi all, I need to replace my thermostat on my E61 2.0d M Sport, it has the N47 engine (177bhp) Anybody know of links to guides pics/videos on doing this job? It only has the main Stat and not the EGR one on this engine.
  9. Hi Everyone, So I know this is a common problem, but I'm really in a bit of a bind at the moment as I need my locking wheel not which is down by the spare wheel. The boot won't open with the handle or with the key. It opens slightly then retracts back. Boot Window opening button does nothing I can't find any way to manually open the boot from inside. I have climbed in the back and looked for buttons or holes or cords and there's just nothing related to the opening of the boot. It seems like these features were added to later versions of the e61. I'm assuming it's an electrical problem, but any idea how I can get this boot open to even start repairing it? Thanks!
  10. Nice E61 touring, quite local to me actually, I think I've probably seen it driving around in fact https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-525d-3-0-M-Sport-Touring-6-Speed-MANUAL/182917925168?hash=item2a96c20930:g:GWgAAOSwCQlZ8kUn Presumably quite rare being a sport with a manual gearbox?
  11. Hi Does anyone have a list of the suspension bushes for a 2008 e61 front and rear with their part numbers? Thanks
  12. Jp mcgonigle

    e61 part required

    HI there, Looking for a price for part number 51479130667 and also 34212339291and 34216763827 last 7 of vin are cr25677
  13. So far: I'm using the high outputs of the floor subs to feed an Amp in the boot, to then drive 2 medium sized cabs, each with 8 inch sub drivers (from my previous E39). The stock basic (head unit powered audio) system has a somewhat querky setup. As noted elsewhere, the other speakers are hi bass pass filtered and do not contain full range sub frequencies, hence using the floor subs as a feed (instructions here and info here and this post explains why). The head unit also does strange mixing left/right when pushing the balance fully left or right, so leaving the left/right balance centered. Edit: Took the Amp remote from boot cigaret lighter socket where again brown is earth/neg (wondered why it wasn't working...). This will only trigger the Amp remote when then engine ignition is on (when the engine is running). I've added some front door tweeters in the quarters, also as previously noted on this forum, the over EQ'd brightness of the head unit requires dialing back the treble to the middle. Referenced the BMW E60 E61 FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL video, but I left all connections and airbag attached, using a large cardboard box (15cm above the bottom of the door) and a chair to hold the door card whilst tapping in the tweeter (with inline supplied crossover box) onto the front door speaker feed. Remember, any audio wire with a brown stripe is the negative (German). Fitted a pair of Hertz DT 24.3 80w Tweeter 24mm (~£30 for a pair including crossovers, not plug n play but a workable fit, full specs here). Caution: the black tweeter quarter grill (door triangle) is very soft and can be easily damaged/bent/creased. Whilst an improvement I still have to balance the full strength of the boot subs relative to the floor subs with respect to a bass setting about +3 (where 0 = centred). Not sure this kind of upgrade is going to be as successful as with other cars and might find a less muddy solution by disconecting the floor subs (that requires removing the front seat bolts again!). Noticed some CPU like electronic interfearance being dragged in from somewhere, maybe the hi output feeds running too close to kit in the bottom of the boot or along side wiring looms without using twisted pair wiring. Luckily when the boot Amp is switched into sub frequency mode the interfearance is not a problem and is largely filtered out. Tomorrow I will try putting the sub drivers closer together centered instead of at extremes. I'm looking for the best orientation for phase compatibility with the stock floor subs? After trying this n that and swapping polarity, I'm currently settling on the boot subs facing upward and situated up against the rear seats (eventually settled rear facing). Not too bad but I feel there could be a better sub location setup, any opinions? Edit: Found some good detailed E60 upgrade options and background info here. and here! And another related thread here and more legacy budget options info here Identify your stock audio system: https://musicarnw.com/start-here-your-car/ https://musicarnw.com/bmw-sound-systems-by-us-model-year/
  14. nottmbantam

    Newbie Here - E39 or E61?

    Hello All, New member here, but not new to BMW 5ers. Previously had an E39 520 saloon, E39 528 Touring and also an E38 728. Im about to move back to the UK after several years away and am looking at another touring. I'd first thought about another E39 (maybe 530d) but then got to thinking about the E61 ( probably the 520d) . If it's the E61, would go for a later model , 2008-2010. Something ideally with sub 100k on the clock. Would be looking to spend under £10k. So, looking for some advice and re-assurance I suppose, that the E61 would serve me well. I'd be looking to keep it for about 5 years. I'd love one with a DAB system but understand this will only come on the current generation of 5ers. Any advice / tips what to look for and which diesel model is best out the E61s? Thanks in advance. Edited to add: As I'm relatively familiar with the E39, the E61 is totally new territory for me so know nothing about them. I suppose the real question is- how do they compare? Cheers.
  15. On my way to pick up my e61 from what I believe to be a garage with a decent reputation. The gearbox was dripping spots of oil onto my driveway so I called them up and they explained that it's likely that the sump has cracked and they would change the sump, the oil, the gasket and the mechatronic sleeve for £400 inc vat. Bit pricey I thought but ok. When I was there I asked them to do the glowplugs and the controller and blank the swirl flaps. About £500 extra they said. Bit pricey I thought but ok. Just got the call to collect the car and they said all in its £1200! Said they had to change a pressure valve and he waffled on a bit about some extra labour. Additionally they said there was nothing wrong with the sump it was just the gasket that was leaking, so they put the sump back on. £1200 for a gasket, gearbox oil, glowplugs and swirl flap blanks!?? Im sure I'll just end up paying as I hate arguing but this seems ridiculous What would you do?
  16. Hi everyone, Got a low coolant level warning in my '04 525d estate today. It has 95k miles on the clock, I checked the level after the engine cooled down and it was slightly below the minimum marker. I could still see some green fluid in there. Havent noticed any puddles and the car drives fine otherwise. I did get the thermostats and the exhaust manifold changed about 4 months ago which involved replacing the coolant. Worth investigating further or shall I just top it off and see how it goes?
  17. jake13

    Rear Toe

    How do you adjust the toe on the rear axle, #2 traction strut?
  18. E61 530d. I used to change my engine oil with a suction pump on my e34 and e39 and it used to pull all the oil out. However I just tried on my E61 and only got 5 or 6 litres. Is the sump a funny shape that the dipstick tube is not above the lowest point? I guess I'll have to drain it the old fashioned way. Any thoughts?
  19. E61 530d. I used to change my engine oil with a suction pump on my e34 and e39 and it used to pull all the oil out. However I just tried on my E61 and only got 5 or 6 litres. Is the sump a funny shape that the dipstick tube is not above the lowest point? I guess I'll have to drain it the old fashioned way. Any thoughts?
  20. Hi, I bought myself 2004 E61 to replace my 2001 e39 that I didn't bother doing the swirl flaps on. It bit me. Anyway my android phone, Xperia Z5 pairs and transfers numbers but I'm lucky to get one call before the sound reverts back to the phone with nothing through the speakers. Is this fixable? Or is the bt unit just too old. I guess this is a common problem. Any solution? Cheers.
  21. Marcus GTE

    New E61 owner

    Hello! Im Marcus, and I'm the proud owner of this E61 535d m sport LCI hope to find the forum a good source of info on any issues that may pop up in the future. She goes into BMW tomorrow for a once over, so I'll know what needs doing. It has an oil leak, and I've read that this can be the red charge air hose that can perish. Hoping it's just that, as it is dirty; but I'll wait to see what the experts say. Expecting to spend some money on it to get it ship shape. In general though its in great shape for 109,000 miles. The sunroof (heard they are problematic) has been coded just to vent, so I'll ask about that when I'm in too. Cheers
  22. HandyAndy_UK

    D-Can cable on 07 E61 N53

    Ordered a D-Can cable for my 2007 E61 525i N53B30 the other day... arrived silly fast - many thanks. Installing the dvd onto a W10 laptop I worked my way down the list, but first problem was the cable driver install failed straight away with an error stating the installation syntax was invalid. Installed everything else without issue. Trying it out today, The cable-car connection worked fine, so it seems being unable to install the driver package doesn't cause a problem. However, while in INPA using various 'live data' displays, I repeatedly got errors to do with 'API error #134' and another up until the live updating of data stopped. Any guesses what I've done wrong ?
  23. HandyAndy_UK

    E61 Steering fluid leak

    Well hopefully this will be a shortlived thread, but knowing my luck I doubt it. However, as a resource it may help someone, so why not? Few weeks back my 2007 E61 N53B30 experienced a failure of the coolant 'vent tube' that run from the expansion tank to a pathetic plastic tube under the radiator top cover plate to the radiator on the upper n/s. After investigation I replaced the crumbled tube with copper hydraulic pipe and all is well. Allied to the engine bay being sprayed with coolant, the aux belt managed to slip off (not fun as you approach a 5way roundabout) and thus I lost power steering. With the coolant pipe done and belt refitted a few days later I noted a whine from the engine bay which increased with engine revs and also with steering input. Investigation found very low steering fluid, but no blatant leak traces. Now I've had a better chance to look, I found sticky residue on the pipes under the reservoir and green fluid dripmarks inboard of the n/s front wheel. Plan - remove and inspect/replace reservoir, identify damaged hose(s), loose union(s) as found. Actions - Remove air filter box for access, remove (now empty) steering fluid reservoir, clean residue from hoses and reservoir - inspect as much as possible for damage, replace reservoir with new Mehle unit. Once cleaned, there was no signs of splits in the hoses and the remaining fluid levels visible in the hoses stayed the same over the 4 hours of the job (I had to wait for a pair of jubilees to replace the one use clips under the reservoir), the power steering pump was clean and dry with no signs of anything loose, so for the moment I've reassembled the system with the new reservoir as a precaution, refilled and after a slight top-up this morning (hoses dry) and a test run, all seems well once more. However, I shall be monitoring. Having had a chance to clean the old reservoir and vented lid with copious amounts of very hot water, I cannot find any flaw or failure in it so on the shelf for the moment as a spare. The pics below show the general area with the airbox removed, power steering reservoir and carrier removed. The remaining fluid can be seen in the two disconnected hoses and for reference the 'vacuum changeover switch' recently replaced (controls the cooling air duct flaps) can be seen top and slightly right of the red +ve point. The flat/wide plug in the 1st pic is for the MAF, the large duct behind/below it attaches to the airbox 'out'. The item resting on the intake manifold is the new reservoir, prior to fitting. The power steering pump can be seen in pic 1 to the right of the two blue topped torx bolts and the alternator +ve connection is the red item nearby (as someone pointed out in another thread, that exposed nut is slightly worrying). (Bonus to the job - I recovered a 1/4" 6mm socket someone had lost between the chassis member and wheelarch liner). This is the N53B30 petrol engine.
  24. Hi I've recently purchased 2004/54 Bmw 525d manual bought this car off a friend to tow my Trailor the car is really slow and has no power fault code that come up on reader p14a7 any ideas wot this could be
  25. I have an '04 E61 with goosed stats (temperature never rising about 70) I've watched some tutorials and feel really confident that I can DIY the stats, by have some questions about coolant which doesn't seem to be covered in the guides I've watched/read. - When changing the thermostats should I drain the coolant? - If not, can I just allow some to leak while changing the main thermostat and then top up? Should I remove the underside tray? - Do I need to bleed the system of air? How? Thanks a lot for your help, I really appreciate it!