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Found 18 results

  1. Carl-e34

    E39 M5

    This M5 is doing the rounds on ebay etc ... It's got rust issues and worn timing chain ... The seller wants over 10k.
  2. Dave Tunstall

    E39 U.S. lenses

    Hi. Ive just bought an e39 imported from Japan and want to replace the tired headlight lenses. Does anyone know who supplies the angel eye lenses with the Amber corners?
  3. Hi All! New here so couple words about my car history. Owned mostly BMWs with couple of exceptions. Had gone through E34s, E39s, E46, E36 M3, E53 4.6is, E60 and 61 and now back to E39s again. So daily is 525d auto and not so daily is 2002 M5 ESS supercharged. Pic of M5 on the dyno.
  4. DennisCooper

    E39M5-Lola2.jpg

    From the album: E39 Touring

  5. DennisCooper

    E39M5-Lola1.jpg

    From the album: E39 Touring

  6. longestdrive

    Hello from a newbie

    Hello bmw5 members, Greetings from Malaysia. Been a BMW fan over the years. Hope to gain advice, tips, knowledge from the masters, guru etc. in this forum. Hopefully with the help from you all I will spend less time in the workshop and more time driving. My current ride is a converted 2001 E39 M5 from an 1999 E39 523i. Cheers!
  7. Bennybear

    My e39 M5 Running Report

    Thought I'd start a build thread for the new (well new to me) M5 Rarely gone backwards in terms of age of car but stepping out of an 08 335i, and back into a 14yr old e39 it's really surprised me how the e39 still feels great. Took it for it's first proper drive today after giving it a bit of TLC this morning, got some bits and pieces planned so thought I might as well start the thread with how the car looks after a good clean. Went over it with my Megs basic detailer kit, wash, clay, polish, paste wax (twice) then went round and cleaned and lubed all the rubber on the car, polished the headlights, replaced the filler cap with a new item with an intact tether. Immediate plans, well as soon as I buy an e39 touring as a second car are as follows Give interior a proper going over Replace weather strip on both sides Replace window surrounds on passenger side Replace front kidneys Look into potential sound upgrade (Bavsound maybe?) Fix windscreen washers Replace number plate surrounds Apply personal plate Get windows tinted Potentially look at changing over interior from wood to piano black Fix missing pixels in instrument cluster Maybe look at exhaust modification Front end stone chips Full paint correction Change rear view mirror to oval Anyway, here she is after spending this morning on the paint and plastics
  8. I’ve just swapped my awful timber effect gear knob for an F10 M5 item and thought I’d share a guide for those who fancy doing the same. The part number is 25112284205, it cost me £120 including a 10% discount from my local BMW dealer. It’s a fiddly process but the result is well worth it, I managed to break some clips on the new knob and was very worried I might just have thrown £120 away. Thankfully the way the knob locates onto the gear lever gives a lot of support so I got away with it. Overall I’d have to say the process has a difficulty level of 7. The reason for swapping the leather gators is two-fold – the old gator will match the car better but more importantly the new one is too tight and will cause the gator frame to pop out of the centre console when changing gear. My car is a 2001 facelift so the cable connections for illumination are plug and play with the F10 M5 knob – I believe that earlier cars have a different plug so you may need to do some chopping and changing of plugs if this is the case. Here's the F10 knob as it comes from BMW.... Here’s what you’ll need ; Small flat bladed screwdriver Stanley knife or craft knife Impact or contact adhesive – I used Evostik Impact adhesive Glue gun and glue sticks Anyway, here’s the guide. 1. Remove knob from car. The clips that held mine onto the gear lever were broken so mine was loose anyway – care should be taken normally as they can be pretty tight and come loose suddenly. 2. Peel the leather gator away from the original knob. You want to end up with as much leather intact as possible so the gear lever has free movement. 3. Cut the leather from the top of the gator, cut away as little as possible to result in a nice straight edge. 4. Peel the leather gator from the white plastic collar on the new knob. 5. Cut the silicon sleeve on the cables of the new knob to allow the knob some freedom of movement. 6. Remove as much glue as possible from the two locating pins as shown, this will allow the collar to be separated from the gear knob more easily. The white collar was attached to the knob in the factory by locating the pins into the knob base and then gluing them in place. 7. Use a small flat bladed screw driver to ease the clip apart to allow the white collar to be separated from the metal knob base - BE CAREFUL HERE! The clip looks metal but is actually metal plated plastic and will break easily. 8. Prise the white plastic collar away from the metal knob base. This will mean a combination of unclipping the clip and prising the two locating pins - BE VERY CAREFUL HERE!! The two locating pins and the clip will snap off if you aren’t careful. I was a bit ham-fisted and broke the clip and a locating pin. 9. Now fully remove the leather gator from the white collar and cut the leather to free the white collar and cables from it. The new gator is no use to you anymore. 10. When the new white collar is glued into your old gator the seam will sit too proud so it’s advisable to cut slots in the collar. The F10 boot has two seams but it's sod's law that they aren't where you need them so you'll need to cut two more on the side where the wires pass through. I’ve seen a few comments on the number of seams on the E39 M5 gator – mine has two and I think this is normal. If you have more you’ll need to cut more slots. I used a blow torch to heat up an old hacksaw blade – if you do this be careful of burns (obviously!) and not to damage the cables. 11. Now it’s simply a case of feeding the cable and white collar through the neck of the original gator. You’ll need to work the leather to allow the new white collar as far up the neck as possible – you don’t want the gator to be too tight in the centre console frame and have it pop out when selecting reverse or 1st. You might need to trim a little more leather from the top of the gator at this stage. 12. Turn the gator inside out and apply the impact adhesive to both the collar and the gator leather. Let it go off for a minute or two and place the two surfaces together, this should result in a nice secure fix. 13. Push the knob onto the white plastic collar and use a glue gun to secure the pins and clip in place. The leather around the neck of the gator is now sandwiched between the visible metal part of the knob and the white collar inside the gator. 14. Now go and introduce your new knob to your M5. Plug the cable in and give the knob a firm push down to secure it to the gear lever. Clip the gator frame into the centre console and you’re done.
  9. I'm looking for some views on my current dilemma. I'm currently looking at an e39 M5, carbon black, heritage leather, mk4 nav, facelift 51 plate model, 3 owners, 82k, full service plus loads of bits and pieces, all tools etc. it's a really nice example, no rust on the filler, all 4 arches immaculate, interior is mint. Few pixels missing, little bubble of rust on the rear window trim but otherwise in great shape. The car is up for 13k, but with a deal on my car I'll end up paying more like 12k My question is..... Over 3yrs will I lose money? Taking out the running costs, as I know they will be high. (I've run an e39 M5 before) I'm willing to fix the pixels, sort the window and generally keep it in top condition. It would be used as a second car, insured for the summer and garaged over winter. So I'd be very surprised if I put more than 8-9k miles on it in 3yrs. I know there is a fair bit of chatter about these going up in value, I know it's not going to make me rich, but to be honest having a car worth the same in 3yrs would be amazing. I know a lot depends on the car, obviously. But let's take for granted I buy a decent one. Having owned an £8,000 M5 I can clearly see the difference between an £8k car and a £12k car. Prices seem to have gone up for decent motors and stayed low for the poverty spec leggier models. What's the general consensus here? Go up? Go down? Stay the same? Thanks for reading, and thank you in advance for any comments. I know there is a fair bit on the forums on this subject but nothing recently, and most comments seem to be based purely on gut feeling from people who don't own, haven't owned and don't plan to own M5s. Cheers Ben
  10. Bennybear

    M5 on its way on Saturday

    Well the deal is done, so its good bye to the 2008 335i M Sport and hello to the 14yr old M5 Any regrets? Absolutely not. Here are the original build pics & options, courtesy of 530iman thank you again!
  11. Kieronsykes

    Rusty Back End

    With the M5 laid up for the winter months after the tax ran out in September I have a number of jobs to do to keep her tip top. One of the things that has been bugging me for a while is rust bubbling just above the rear bumper as shown here:- Rear Rust Upon removing the rear bumper I was presented with this:- 20141102_210818179_iOS After removing the rubber grommets and having a quick touch with the wire brush has left me with this:- 20141102_211809250_iOS Has anyone else come across this? Not sure what the rubber bungs are there for and is it a case of cutting out the rust and welding in a solid piece of metal underneath. My main concern is how the vertical piece beneath the tailgate is pitted and I suspect really should be cut out and replaced. Any advice would be gratefully received. Its got the normal rust developing around the electric switch in the rear boot lid so it's got to go and have a few bits sorted. Having removed the rear arch liners, everything else underneath looks good and solid, shame its gone where it has.
  12. So the M5 sailed through the MOT but its time to tackle a few jobs that I have been putting off. First up the diff has started leaking again so I am having that resealed and secondly the big one. One of the rocker covers has been leaking for a while so I am getting both replaced. I thought about doing this myself but ultimately have gave the job to my garage to do. Its not a cheap job but coupled with the new alloys I have ordered, its one that had to be done. Then its a bit of paint work than Bobs your uncle
  13. Slooby

    Braaaaaaaake!

    Learnt something today about the M5...the brakes are dreadful! I knew they were likely to be poor if I ventured out on track, but they can't even cope with a moderate stop on the road at sensible pace So, thinking I couldn't be modifying the car has gone out the window, I have to do something about the brakes. Anyone know a reputable and low cost supplier for Ferodo DS2500 or Pagid RS14 Greys? My pads of choice after years of abuse on the Subaru with a small 304mm disc/4 pot monoblock Brembo brake kit on a 500hp car. I am not a fan of EBC, having had issues with their quality in the past, and really don't want pads with too much in the way of metal particles in to knock seven bells out of my wheels. I'm also a touch brasic right now, having just bought the car! Most places want 160 odd for the Ferodo's and 220 odd for the Pagids which seems a bit steep. I'll also be looking at the cooling set up, seeing as that's all blocked off, unlike my old 530d...
  14. My beast is coming up to 14 years old with 66k on the clock. For its Birthday I'm going to overhaul the entire suspension setup as things are starting to feel a little tired. I'm going to do the overhaul in 2 stages, springs, shocks, top mounts, plates and dust covers etc. first, then when I've got the cash I'll do control arms, arb links, tie rods and bushes etc as they seem ok at the moment. Now to do springs, shocks and others bits like dust covers and spring plates etc the OE parts alone come to about £1800 front and rear (I'll post the part numbers and cost breakdown when I get near a computer later). I can get this down to about £1400 if I don't replace the springs. Do you think it's over kill to replace the springs as I've read somewhere springs should outlast 2-3 sets of shocks? Also, would it be best to do the front and rear shocks at the same time or could I get away with doing the front first then the rear few months later (200-400 miles)?
  15. Wonka

    New to the forum

    Hi All been lurking around the M5 forums for quite some time but finally decided to start saying hello! I've had my current e39 for just over a year and as any other owner will typically say "Loving it". I've had large v8s most of my driving life and after a short break from my last v8 (VXR8) I found this car as an AUC. Seemed too good to be true, struck a deal and never looked back. Last week the car was taken into the local dealers for some warranty work (nice to have parking sensors again!) and they washed it, or basically dragged sand paper and put lovely swirls and cobwebs into it... thankfully they agreed to rectify (as I'd asked not to have it washed for that reason). Picked the car up but of course they have buffed it nicely (still need to double check but its hard in this weather!) and as the weather was good enough today, decided I best reapply some wax as they buffed the old stuff off. Use FK1000p, love using it, brilliant to apply to your alloys to help keeping them clean!
  16. Bazzer79

    Breakers Yard for E39 M5 Parts

    Hi, I'm looking for some used E39 M5 parts. I've tried Quarry Motors but no joy. Any other ideas for breakers that sell M Car parts and have a good reputation? Thanks!
  17. I've been thinking about getting both my vanos units overhauled, the car runs fine and pulls well but from hot or cold starts make the usual grumbling / ticking noises which isn't the sound a high performance car should make. I think also the chain tensioners might not be 100% either as sometimes you get a bit of what sounds like chain clatter, nothing too serious sounding but just noisy for about half a second after ignition? This doesn't always happen, in fact if you leave the car overnight it fires up without the noise at all, but fire it up after a short journey then the clatter is apparent - failed vanos accumulator perhaps? I've tried calling / emailing CPC performance engineering, spoke to his receptionist twice to get a quote for works but never get a call back or response to my emails, anyone else have this problem? I've also tried Mr Vanos but again he's notoriously hard to get hold of also. Anyone have any suggestions?
  18. Bricko!

    Angel Eyes

    From the album: My E39 M5

    Replaced pre-facelift Xenons with a pair of Angel eyes.
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