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Found 15 results

  1. Does anybody have any experience of using these guys for after market coding?? They have a few offerings that would be very useful. https://www.bimmer-tech.net/bmw-idrive-coding/ Thx.
  2. Hi all, I wanted to share with you my experience of fitting LCI rear lights on to my Pre-LCI E60. Just to be clear, I had considered the following before successfully carrying this out: 1) I didn't want the expense of buying Bruce Miranda cables 2) I wanted to utilise the Ricky brake effect 3) I didn't want the hassle of running extra wires from the LM2 4) I wanted to utilise the official BMW retrofit cables 5) I didn't want to change my adaptive bi-xenons, I intended to keep the Pre-LCI ones 6) I wanted to the leave the factory wiring in the car untouched Firstly, I retrofitted the LM2 light module to my 56 plate E60. There are plenty of guides discussing this, so I will assume you already have the LM2 light module retrofitted or fitted as standard (from the later Pre-LCI models) as this is not possible with the LM1. I had to purchase the LM2 with adaptive functionality but this coding can be done with any LM2. I got the LM2 for £85 off eBay, the ones without AHL can picked up for a between £40 and £60. There is a little bit of pin swapping required on the harness bought from BMW. The part number for the Retrofit harness is 61120432110. I ordered it from BMW directly and it cost £25+VAT. I managed to pick up some LCI rear lights off eBay for £130 delivered also. OK let me discuss the coding first as this will make more sense when I discuss the pin swapping on the retrofit harness. This assumes you are familiar with NCSEXPERT also, again there are plenty of guides on this. In the LM2, you need to change: KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv WARMUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_H_L from aktiv to nicht_aktiv FEHLERMELDUNG_CC_BLK_H_R from aktiv to nicht_aktiv all of the above are in relation to the LED indicators and this tells the LM2 to not carry out cold or warm bulb checks and not report any check control messages in due course. Lastly, you need to change: PWM_ANSTEURUNG_BL from wert_05 to wert_02 and wert_04 This disables the brake light being used as a side light (I will explain this shortly). Essentially it changes the voltage output from 6.598v to 0v PWM_ANSTEUERUNG_RL_33 from wert_05 to wert_04 This increases the tail light voltage from the default 6.598v to 100% (around 13.8v) PWM_AN_NSL_SL from wert_02 and wert_03 to wert_01 This disables the fog light from being used as a side light by reducing the voltage from the default 4.699v to 0v We have to disable the fog light and brake light as side lights as we have increased the voltage on the side light to 100% therefore you wouldn't be able to tell when pressing the brake or putting the rear fogs on as the brightness wouldn't change. The bulb checks on the Pre-LCI as standard for the inner side lights are turned off by default so we don't need to edit the coding on these. The plan is to use the increased side light voltage to power the LED rods to match the OEM LCI lights brightness. The brake light will be utilised in the fog assembly and the fog light will be placed where the brake light was before (the outer light). The inner side light will no longer be powered as that is what we are using. This gives us the Ricky brake effect. In order to achieve this the following pins need to be swapped on the retrofit harness: Left hand side rear light Pin 1 = ground - OK Pin 2 = fog light - move to Pin 6 brake light Pin 3 = Reverse - OK Pin 4 = Side Light - OK (when you get the harness, this linked to Pin 7 on the LCI connector, this need to be moved on the LCI connector side to Pin 4 (LED rods) as we are no longer using the side bulbs Pin 5 = Indicator - OK Pin 6 = brake light - move to Pin 2 Right hand side rear light Exactly the same as above but Pin 4 needs to be moved from Pin 7 on the LCI connector to Pin 2 on the LCI connector side (LED rods) And that's it!! Plug your lights in with 0 errors and give yourself a pat on the back as you have saved yourself £200+ on buying Bruce Miranda cables and you have a working solution with no need for resisters or relays etc. It took me a few attempts to get the coding right but hopefully this will help a few people who are interested in this upgrade. If you have welcome lights coded as well these will light up the LED rods now as well instead of the halogen lights which look a lot smarter. Plus remember: When you sell the vehicle you can code it back to defaults and just plug the old lights back in too! I will upload some pictures at the weekend of my wiring etc. With a before and after. Thanks Jamie
  3. I've had a problem with my airbag light (diagnostics say a passenger airbag circuit short to earth fault) which having substituted a known good airbag and checked the wiring/plugs etc seems to me to be a likely ECU problem... and that's the final step on the diagnostic fault guidance too. Today it is at the local BMW dealers for the drivers airbag recall work and I've asked them to spend a max 1hr extra labour to double check my findings... then advise and quote. Unless they find something daft I've missed no doubt they will be quoting some massive price to change the ECU which I will decline and do myself. Reading around this and other forums it seems if you get the exact same airbag ECU then you can fit it, clear the fault codes and it will not need coding which I guess I might be able to do but would rather not. Image shows my ECU so could someone tell me which of the 7 number sequences I need to match up to get one that is operationally the same?
  4. Coding e39 Japanese import

    Hi! ive just taken ownership of a lovely e39 540i M Sport which i imported from japan. it's lovely! However, i'd like to code the ecu so the odometer reads in Miles. i have the cables and software, but can't seem to get into the correct module. does anyone have experience of coding imported bmw's here? cheers Fritzy
  5. So as per title, does anyone do coding around Surrey/Hampshire area? Alternatively does anyone have the time to teach me / explain to me how to code the vehicle? I work in the IT industry so it should not take me too long to get the hang of things. As far as I am aware I require NCS Expert, a D-Can cable and a laptop? Recently watched this video, specifically about updating the iDrive software and systems of the vehicle: Is that still possible using winkfp? Thanks
  6. Cables & Software

    Morning Jimmy, I dropped you an email about this yesterday morning but thought I'd post here as well. I have previously purchased your K line cable for diagnostics of my E46 M3. Since I have replaced that with an E60 535d, so I now believe I need the D-Can cable as the car is a 57 plate? If so, will all of the software work ok on Windows 10, or do I have to build a Win XP machine for it? Also wanted to ask if there is any forum discount at all, as I don't believe I used one last time? Many thanks, Stoycho
  7. Simple guide please

    Hi all, Would really appreciate a little help. I now have the connector dongle to Ethernet for my car BMW F10 2012. I have an old Dell laptop, with Windows 7 32bit installed ready for the task. I would like to setup the software on my laptop, I have googled and tried various downloads and 'instructions' but none mirror what I see on my laptop. can someone please guide me to the correct downloads and some simple installation instructions. thanks in advance. rrm
  8. Well, I puckered up and plucked up the courage to try the Carly product and adaptor to change some of the codes on my F11. Having spent the £40+ on the OBD wireless adaptor and £40 or so on the IOS application I nervously tried the product. For coding I tried some of the simpler tasks activating folding mirrors 0 seconds after remote locking, enabled the easy entry/exit steering tilt and auto-activating the Active High Beam option when the headlights are active. I found the process simple and easy to-do. There were however a couple of disappointments. 1) The product does not, as yet, support NBT iDrive (mildly disappointing and my fault for not doing enough due diligence) 2) The diagnostics found 15 error codes that could not be cleared. Many I was not bothered about but the ODC sensors are showing a short circuit despite working and with the immobiliser system. On the whole an easy product to use but it does lack some options that appear on the F10 cheat sheet, e.g. HUD settings being one set of obvious odes. Hope this helps anyone who like me was intrigued by the idea of coding but was put off by the need for German and the MS Windows Like Registry structure when playing with their pride a joy C00lh4nd
  9. Coding in Kent/Medway

    Hi guys I would like some bits coding onto my car if it's possible. welcome lights would be nice I believe I have the right module as my car is a 2007 but pre lci so very late version. would also like audible tone when locking unlocking etc. can anyone help?
  10. Hi everyone, There is not many accurately detailed posts on this, I've had a look & I'm a bit unsure on what to do so any advice will help. I've been keeping up on this forum for years however this is my first topic so excuse me if I'm doing anything wrong.. I have a 535d M Sport Pre LCI with the ugly hazey Halogen headlights. I've managed to pickup a pair of BMW Pre LCI Dynamic Xenon headlights with the ballast (and I think headlight module) without the bulbs or bulb holder for £50! Which I think is bargain of the century. I wanted to know what my options were. The route I was thinking of going as a last resort was, HID with bulb holder, and some E53 X5 SMD LED Angel Rings which I bought as I know these are the same measurements for the angels on E60's. Is there any other way to do it so I can get the Dynamic Xenon also working with the whole steering wheel etc.. Will there be any coding required? Do I need any additional parts etc. Thanks, Nahid
  11. I've got 2 fault codes come up on my 2011 F11 520d M-sport I'm hoping that P2002 might just 'burn off' I wonder whether anyone could shed some light on P14A3, and whether I should just clear the fault and hope it doesn't come back any time soon. Appreciate any thoughts you might have
  12. Coding, Programming & Diagnostics

    A new forum to consolidate the accumulated forum knowledge... There used to be a time when if your car radio went faulty you just slapped in a new one or if you wanted to add a CD changer just wire it in and away you go... You can't do that with modern cars, BMW models E6x and E9x etc. onwards need to be coded for almost anything you want to do. May be now you want to add AUX input or a CD Changer, may be have your mirrors fold when you lock your car and a thousand other options...just ask So, what do you need to do Coding or Diagnostics? If you need a cable then first stop should probably be Cable Shack - www.cable-shack.co.uk Jimmy will sort you out... There is plenty of software out there a bit of Goggling will find you some. Start with INPA & NCS Expert, also BMW Scanner is very good but the later versions (1.4.0) need a special cable... But lets get started
  13. Hi folks , Last year introduced my 2009 bmw to cut upgrade and very impressive it was too ! In summer of 2014 , I went ahead and got the standard TCU replaced and coded for a COM box . My battery died recently and when the Indy garaged replaced and reset it the coding was lost , and now I have no blue-tooth phone functionality and I lost the handy wireless music streaming from my phone ! Can anyone recommend a local - Middlesex based trusted expert to recode the combox please ? Any help really appreciated as I cannot use the phone in the car at the moment and it is frustrating , thank you , Perm

    Ive just bought a 530d and im loving it but was wondering what i need to do about my pre lci climate control,ive bought a new style one off ebay,i hear you have to code them,where can this be done,how much can i expect to pay ,can i do it myself,thanks
  15. Hi all So I'm just about to remap my '04 535d, but first would like to update the EGS (gearbox) software to the latest version (with V48 files I believe). This will hopefully remove the 2->1 kickdown issue, change shift points, and smooth out the gears overall. I've only heard positive things about it. I've managed to get INPA up and running on my Win7 64-bit laptop and reset gearbox adaptations, but that's as far as I can go. DIS, WinKFP etc... it's all a bit over my head. I have a freshly installed Win7 32-bit laptop and a wifi connection that should reach my car, so I'm hoping there's somebody out there who is willing to help out with a little remote coding session to update my EGS. Anybody have any suggestions? Cheers! Chris.