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Garage

Found 8 results

  1. For some reason the passenger door is not unlocking with the key fob or the button on the dash, it still works fine from the inside using the handle. All other doors and the boot are functioning fine. Going to get into the door and have a look at the weekend but does anyone have any thoughts or advice on what ot could be before I go rooting around?
  2. Hi all, Hoping you can help. Central locking won't work from the drivers door lock (the lock has also gone difficult to turn with the key). It also won't work when trying to operate from the inside. It does seem to work from the boot etc. Any ideas???
  3. Jonezee08

    CAS locked out??

    Hi I have a bmw e60 53 plate. It's pre lci 525i manual. I recently had the keys fixed but they did not work on the sync procedure. Apparently there isn't actually one and it's automatic. I don't know how but the cas system has been locked out so I can't connect any keys. Does anyone know how to unlock this? Sorry that I may be in the wrong section and the staff may have to move it.
  4. OK so my tale of woe has lasted all summer. In May the car - 2008 E61 525d (2993cc) with 170k was running rough, codes said glow plugs 1 and 2 were duff. Went into limp mode whilst I was waiting for the plugs, then a plug snapped in situ, waited weeks with the underbonnet in pieces for a helicoil man to come and fix that, then it still wouldn't regen, it all pointed to a blocked DPF. Went on holiday and have been using another car over summer, finally took the DPF out and got it cleaned (thanks dpfcleanteam).cleaned the soot off the sensors with petrol, re-assembled (except rear sensor) and back into the car - not a one-man job, it needs someone under the car pushing it up and someone reaching down past the engine to get it back in. Taking the DPF out meant disconnecting all four sensors, removing the exhaust, and also disconnecting the steering column which slides up the column splines to get it safely out of the way. Anyway, with all that done I hoped it would now be a runner. It started fine, stereo came on and I set off on dipped beams (it was about 6.45pm, just getting dark). Got about a mile down the road and the dash went fairly crazy with all sorts of warning lights, then went completely black, stereo went off and main beam came on by itself. Car was still driving OK, engine running fine and steering/brakes OK. No indicators though, so turned around ASAP and headed home. I have reset all the codes, reading the new set of codes is like war and peace - lots of ECU instrument complaints and multiple CAN bus messages. Symptoms are: rear tailgate stays locked shut no matter what i do rear doors don't lock when you lock the doors - only front locks and unlocks from the central locking. no indicators, it's as though the stalk is dead. no instruments at all, but dash lights come on no interior lights when you open the door no main beam, except for when you don't ask for it lights turn on main beam by themselves at random, with lights on or off. lights do turn on and off, and indicator lamps flash when lockiing/unlocking the car. no water coming into the car, LCM is dry, shows no signs of problems Error codes are: 42x2 Glow plug activation cyl 1-6 ; I reckon that's the module gone south 4C03 Message Cruse control 4458 Message Steering wheel angle D359 Powertrain CAN Message D35C Powertrain CAN Message D35E Powertrain CAN Message D360 Powertrain CAN Message D36E F-CAN Message D36D F-CAN Message E516 no message (steering column switch signal 0x1EE) receiver LM, transmitter SZL E514 no message (Steering wheel angle) recever LM, transmitter DSC 9CC5 No message, Line (RLS) 4993 Message Error (Instrument panel) Engine ECU receiver Instrument panel transmitter I reckon it's either a short on the CAN bus somewhere, or that the DPF sensors are causing a short on the CAN bus, or that the battery (unit-for-life according to BMW, last changed 2012 for over £300) hasn't liked sitting for so long with the car in pieces and I've not been able to drive it far enough to get a decent charge back into it. Does anyone have any ideas on what this could be, usually I can find someone who has had the same set of symptoms but I've struck out.
  5. ikr3512

    Can Anyone HELP!

    Hi I have read loads about the syncing the remote key and have checked all my fuses on my 525D Touring but the remote locking dose not work the car locks on the key and button in the car all doors open and close as they should including the fuel flap. I have 1 key brand new from bmw and the original I fitted a new battery in and both open doors start car but will not sync the remote locking, I have looked at all fuses and all look ok if I am looking at the right ones? The remote locking was working when I had the car and did start to play up so I obviously thought it was the battery at the time but now I am looking for other options that could cause failure I am unsure where the unit that receives and sends the signal is located but when I try and sync Should the car beep at me before I turn the ignition off whilst I hold the button on the key and do the 3x push button thing on the locking button. I know there is the control unit behind the glove box but dose that also deal with the remote signal incoming from the keys? many thanks
  6. Car is locked and doors won't open. Boot will unlock on key but can't access passenger compartment. Tried the emergency unlock procedure on both front doors (insert key, turn while lifting door handle) to no avail. BMW garage has tried to lift driver's door lock button by inserting rod via gap between door and body to no avail. BMW garage now saying they don't know what to do apart from unscrewing front grille to access battery under bonnet in the hope that disconnecting and reconnecting will work. Rear door lock actuator was replaced and the others were checked recently and all working fine though the car has had lock bounce for many years (lock, unlock, relock) with no problem. Any ideas gratefully received!
  7. Hi, I've got what I now realise is a common problem with my 2007 E61, but despite all the ideas and assistance already posted on the internet, I'm really struggling and can't seem to sort it. Symptoms are that 12 months ago the heated rear window stopped working, followed a few months later by the central high level brake light. Then 4 weeks ago the central locking refused to work. A quick search of these forums made it clear this is a common feature of BMW estate related to either wiring looms that run through the hinges or the diversity antenna. I dismantled the rear spoiler and checked the diversity antenna. It was bone dry, no sign of water ingress or anything wrong with it. I reluctantly stripped out the wiring on the right hand hinge - left side and the problem was immediately apparent. Three of the wires were already broken and the remainder of the wires were creased and damaged. I bought a new wiring loom but just cut off the section I needed to replace the damaged section and get a new reconnection onto the main wiring loom through the rear right hand speaker. Everything appeared to go smoothly and I thought I had completed a good job - the rear windscreen heater was working and the central high level brake light worked - however the central locking would not work!! To make it worse the central locking developed a mind of its own and now started randomly locking and unlocking the window that forms part of the tailgate, and the tailgate would occasionally lock. As I drove along you could occasionally hear the locks at the rear clicking on and off. No matter how much I changed the wiring around, i.e. the brown wires, the situation remained the same. When I went to drive the car yesterday it would not start and various random error messages began to flash up. Tonight the alarm system started going off every 15 minutes. I could not turn it off or even get the key to go into the ignition. Also various error messages flashed on and off, none of which seemed to make any sense. I'm guessing this last problem could be due to the battery going flat??? Eventually I had to disconnect the battery to stop the alarm. Am I right in assuming that the wiring for the central locking going into the diversity antenna is via the wide flat clip that has 4 wires, red/white, blue/white, purple/white and brown? The new loom that I bought actually had 5 wires going into that clip, but I have assumed this was a redundant wire that could be use for other options on different models and blanked it off with a bit of masking tape Any ideas greatly accepted as I am now really struggling and my local BMW service manager has indicated it will be minimum £1,000 upwards for them to repair it - assuming I ever get it to go again and can even get it to a garage!! 1. Is it possible a flat battery is responsible for it not starting and all the other random flashings and eventually the key not going into the ignition??? 2. Could it be that I had 2 problems at the same time - very dodgy wiring and a defective diversity antenna??? HELP!!!
  8. Have only had my lovely 2006 E61 fo a week or so and I can no longer lock the car with one of the key fobs. Alll other functions and other key fob work fine and this is the keyless ignition type. I think it stopped working after it was in use, just after I had set the locks to engage automatically on driving off. Logic would dictate that either there is a fault on the fob, just on the locking button or the system is out of sync. I have read the exhaustive instructions on how to re sync the turning kind of ignition, but I could find nothing on the push in type. Can someone please help.
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