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Found 114 results

  1. Hi All, Looking for a BMW E60 530D M Sport ideally around West Midlands but don't mind travelling. Let me know what you've got!
  2. Hi guys im new to this forum I previously owned a 120D with the n47 177 engine and got rid of it after getting too many major problems. I have now got a E60 520d full service history owned it for 3 months not had a problem. A friend of mine who has the same car had noticed my car was very low on power i then noticed after i drove his exact same car exact same engine no remap no mods mine has 160k on the clock i now notice sometimes the car is close to stalling on junction i have to almost redline it to get off this is on and off one day it will drive super one day it will have low power , what could it be thanks. M47 pre lci
  3. Hi guys, So just had my front pads changed by a local garage, these were Mintex pads which he insisted are "Better than Brembo" so I went for them. Anyway the first day a got it back it was making a little humming noise as though the pads are touching the discs constantly. So took it back to him and told him, he said "They are just bedding in, if you only change the pads and not the disc it will take a few miles for it to adapt". So I kept driving it for a few days and the noise went away, however I still feel that one of the side is sticking, you can still hear a little bit of rubbing (being a 5 series 3L it's hard to notice when driving). Any you guys experienced this? What could be the fault? I called him again yesterday and told him that I need them checking over so will be going to him after work today but need to know what to look for as I have never changed the pads myself, could it be needing grease? Maybe something loose? Cheers
  4. Hey everyone, Decided to start a project thread for my E34 525i, as I've learned a lot from this and other forums before I actually bought the car and while working on it, so I thought sharing my ownership experience will help others to know what to expect from this car and make it easier to get the right parts, know what's involved in the jobs, etc. Having previously owned an E30 325i for over 3 years, one thing I learned about old BMWs is that if you get one with more or less rust-free bodywork, then all the rest of the car, i.e. engine/brakes/suspension can be pretty easily sorted, assuming you haven't bought a completely thrashed example. The reason why I sold my E30 was simply rust - it was everywhere you could imagine - sills, jacking points, front/rear arches, rear panel, front panel and even the roof (it was a sunroof model). To make it 100% right, it would have to be a complete restoration... As much as I love old BMWs, I didn't really want to go through the same things over again with an E34, so I spent literally 1 year looking for one...It had to be a manual, it had to be a 525i and most importantly it had to be in a reasonable condition bodywork-wise. Based on what I've seen and read, E34s rust very similar to other BMWs from the same era, so watch out for rusty jacking points and generally sills, especially on models that had side skirts fitted, then front and rear arches can be bad too (although the front wings can be replaced easily), then the boot lid is quite common to rust on E34s (around the number plate lights and around the edge that meets the rear panel), the bottoms of the doors, where you've got mouldings fitted, around the fuel flap area, and if you are looking at a sunroof model, then you have to be even more careful as the cassettes can be a bit rusty, although roof rust on E34s doesn't seem as common as on E30s. Clearly, the list of possible rust spots is quite extensive, so as I mentioned earlier, when you are looking for an E34, you are looking at bodywork first and all the rest of it second. Engine-wise, it had to be at least a 6 cylinder model for me, because anything less in my opinion, is a bit too slow...525i is a great choice for everything, including performance, economy and maintenance. I've seen a few 540i for sale, but I wanted a manual, so knowing how rare they are in the UK, the prices were unrealistic for me and to be honest, the ones I've seen weren't in the best conditions either. Long story short, just when I was about to give up my search for a decent E34, as I also kept an eye for a more modern E90 330i (no rust, less hassle overall), one unbelievably clean 525i came up for sale and I knew I had to go for it, because otherwise I was simply going to buy an E90, since I was seriously tired of searching. It's a 1993 saloon, pre-facelift model in diamantschwarz metallic with a M50B25TU engine and a manual gearbox. Yes, it does have a sunroof, but after removing the door seals to check the roof, it looks all clean there, although the sunroof cassette does have a few chips on it, they don't bother me at all. The rear jacking points are clean, the fronts are slightly rusty, the rear arches are bubbling a bit on the lower edges, the boot lid is ok, some rust on the bottom of the driver's door and underneath it's pretty clean as well. Grey cloth interior, no A/C (thank god), a sagging headliner and worn wiper linkage - overall, it's still a museum example compared to the E30 that I had... The car did come with a lot of original paperwork, previous MOTs and service history, but I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance and doing things myself, because I like when my cars are 100% mechanically perfect. After scouring the BMW forums all over the Internet, I started making up the list of required parts... Starting with the basic things first, I bought Shell Helix HX7 10W40 engine oil with Mann oil filter, Mann air filter and Valvoline engine flush. Also bought a Gold Plug magnetic sump plug - not sure if they are worth it, but otherwise I would advise getting a new genuine BMW plug and washer. Then moving onto other things as below: Bosch fuel filter - part number: 0 450 905 030 Bosch spark plugs (x6) - part number: 0 242 235 668 (25k miles replacement interval) Bosch Super Plus wiper blades - I initially bought more modern aero wipers, but when it came to fitting them, I didn't realise that E34s had a "reverse hook" wiper on the driver's side. There are various modifications you can do to fit whatever wipers you like, but I decided to stick to OEM and just bought E34-specific regular wipers from ECP with correct fitment. Dayco fan belt (6PK x 1558) - didn't go for a BMW belt, because it was about 40 quid from a dealer, while Dayco was just a tenner from ECP, and Dayco is a quality OEM parts manufacturer anyway, so no problems here. Now an important thing to know about M50 engines is that some of them came with a mechanical tensioner and some with hydraulic one. Done a lot of reading on this and the common recommendation is to replace the mechanical tensioner with a hydraulic one. Luckily INA and other parts manufacturers sell ready kits for doing this, so what I've done is bought a hydraulic tensioner kit and also the free-spinning roller for the alternator. INA hydraulic tensioner kit - part number: 533 0097 10 INA roller - part number: 532 0418 10 Keep in mind, if you have A/C fitted, then you'll also need to buy the A/C belt as well as the tensioner kit for the A/C. Moving onto the cooling side of things - my radiator was swollen on the top for some reason, so I definitely needed a replacement radiator. BMW advised the radiator and the bottle were sold separately and they quoted around £300 for everything, while I was looking at 100 quid tops for a complete rad/bottle online from various reputable makes. Make sure you check properly which radiator you have, because A/C and non A/C models have different size rads (520mm) and automatic cars have different rads as well. After measuring mine, I started looking for the most basic 440mm radiator for manual cars - BMW part number: 17 11 1 712 982 There's a quite large choice of various makes for radiators, but I wanted to stay on the OEM side as much possible, however since the BMW rad was way too pricy, I decided that BEHR/Hella would be a great alternative, since they are a well-known OEM parts manufacturer. I ordered my radiator from http://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/ and it came from Germany, as it was not available anywhere in the UK. Here's the part number for my BEHR/Hella 440mm radiator: 8MK 376 717-461 It was a 100% perfect fit, the only issue we had with it, is that it didn't come with a hole for a coolant level sensor, however you can easily modify it, making a hole where the sensor goes, because otherwise it all fits excellent. I paid just under £100 for it, including delivery, so very happy with it. Then I also bought the fan clutch made by Borg Warner/BEHR/BERU. BEHR fan clutch - part number: 8MV 376 732-231 Sachs fan clutch - part number: 2100 012 131 All are OEM makes, so go for whatever you can find. ECP shows BERU on their website, but the box came labelled Borg Warner, so I'm fine with that. The water pump was about £130 genuine from BMW, which I thought was a bit too much, since I managed to get a HEPU one from ECP for less than £50 and again, HEPU are a decent German brand. HEPU water pump (comes with a gasket) - part number: P472 For the thermostat, first I went with Circoli, but after reading some horror stories about them online, I decided to go genuine BMW and paid £50 for a thermostat and a gasket from BMW. You can either buy a 88 degrees thermostat or 92 one from BMW and all they advise is to check what you already have fitted before you order, which seems a bit silly to me, because these cars are over 20 years old and you don't know whether the stat fitted in the past was the correct spec or not? To be honest, I doubt there will be any catastrophic difference if you go for either of them. Anyway, I decided to go for the 92 degrees thermostat, so the BMW part number you'll need is: 11 53 7 511 083. The gasket comes separate (part no: 11 53 1 265 084) and also make sure to get the thermostat housing gasket - part number: 11 53 1 740 437. I wasn't too fussed about getting specific anti-freeze, so I just went with basic blue 2-year Triple QX anti-freeze that ECP sells and got 5 litres ready mixed for about 8 quid. Also bought some Wynn's white grease to lubricate the door, bonnet and boot lid hinges + locks. To break up the big pile of text above, here's a picture for you to show what it all looked like: And here's the difference between a genuine BMW thermostat and a Circoli one. What I didn't know is that the one made by BMW is actually a Wahler thermostat and you could get the exact same thermostat from eBay for about £30, but obviously it won't have no BMW logo or part number on it, although it will be the same part. Goes to show how dealers make their money on parts. I also bought a few parts from BMW directly, because I thought the price was sensible and also some things are better when they are genuine BMW. It looked like that my valve cover gasket was leaking a bit of oil, so we decided it would be a good idea to replace it, so here's what I got. BMW valve cover gasket kit - part number: 11 12 0 034 107 (keep in mind this is for vehicles fitted with VANOS, so if yours is the older engine, then the part number will be different) BMW valve cover rubber washer seals - part number: 11 12 1 437 395 (you'll need 15 of these) I also bought a genuine engine oil cap (says BMW recommends Castrol on it) - part number: 11 12 7 509 328 And a BMW cap for the radiator as well - part number: 17 11 7 639 022 A common issue with E34 bonnets is that they don't "shoot out" properly, when you pull the bonnet release handle. The usual cause of this are tired bonnet shocks, so I bought a pair from BMW, which cured this problem. BMW bonnet struts (not sided and you'll need 2) - part number: 51 23 1 944 119 They do come with the mounting clips for both ends, so there's no need to buy them separately, although I didn't know that and bought them as well. The shocks are about £30 each, so I guess not too bad, considering you change them once in 20 years. And the finishing touch was the BMW boot lid badge that I bought along with the grommets, as mine was fading away and I wanted to replace it. As far as I know, it applies to the bonnet as well. BMW boot lid badge - part number: 51 14 8 132 375 There are two types of grommets you can order and I'm not sure what's difference, however I had black rubber type fitted on mine: Black badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 807 495 White badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 852 899 And here's a pic of the BMW bits: And that's it. You can see it's quite a lot of parts that I bought and to be honest you don't necessarily HAVE to go this crazy when servicing your E34, but as I mentioned in the beginning of this thread - I like when everything is 100% perfect with my cars, so I prefer to do it once and do it right. This post is getting a bit too long, so I'll finish the story here and I'll update the thread a bit later with a few pictures of how we actually replaced all of the above and then my plans for the next service work on my E34. I want to make this car drive, handle and feel exactly the same as it left the factory, so let's see if I can manage to do it. Thanks for following and any tips/advice much appreciated.
  5. Hi all recently bought an e34 m5. It's a nice car fbmwsh and every mot from new. Recent restoration although still needs a few bits doing. I would like to get it serviced and have a good checking through. Am I best to use BMW main dealer (bowker) or a BMW specialist or other? I'm in Preston so ideally something around here / in Lancashire. many thanks wayne
  6. Hi guys, just a quick one on machines used for coding? I've got an old samsung laptop that needs a few bits doing to it (hdd and busted keyboard - no sticky stuff ) 3gb RAM and decent enough on board graphics. No RS232 but i've got an RS232 - USB2.0 adapter. Bought a cable for the OBD2 anyway recently. what machines are you guys using and did you buy one specific for it, or repurposed an old one? favourite specs? Cheers! Deepan
  7. Hey lads, looking for a bit of help here with my PDC. It was never working when I bought the car due to some bad sensors and the front speaker being unplugged. Recently I finally decided to go at it, sorted the speaker and replaced the 4 Sensors up front and two in the rear, the middle two rear were replaced last year as part of bodywork. Now the weird issue. When the engine is on the sensors seem to go mad, the front ones mainly, always seem to cut in on the rears for some reason. Yet with the just the ignition on and the gearbox in R they work perfectly? You can go around to each sensor with your hand and it detects the space perfectly, start the car and then they go mad again! So any ideas? PDC module at fault and needing replacement? Overvoltage maybe? I'm getting no faults on Carly for BMW.
  8. BMW E34 540I/6 BK35093 I'm starting this project blog with the news that BK35093 is on her way to the Butler HQ, BK35093 is coming from Ireland she was owned by fellow forum member and trader SSkoda at Wills Wheels BK35093 is a genuine six speed manual model one of only 3,203 world wide and one of only 249 (HE52) In right hand drive. Only 157 540i6s come to the United Kingdom, Being Cosmosschwarz metallic makes her 1/45. Production date for BK35093 was the 30/11/1994 Warranty started on the 3/1/1995 Sales Dealer - 05167 Registration Number. M668CGF Factory Specification. Dealer Insight. What we have been told by our friendly local BMW service adviser Katie That BK35093 received during its warranty time. Five radiator caps between (1995-2001) Rear drivers side trailing arm (1998) Two new alloy wheels (1998) Both front shocks during (1999) Replacement Block @ 88K (2001) We have also found adverts concerning BK35093 BK35093 Appeared for sale in mid to late 2009 During the following period BK35093 has undergone some changes, BK35093 is now sporting extended sports champaign leather BK35093 has also had a trick upgraded differential swapping the 2,93 to a more spirited 3,64 coupled with a quick shift arrangement. In between this time BK35093 has had a number plate changed to TUL1540 BK35093 again appeared for sale in mid 2014 The Do List Clean wheel arches and fit seventeen inch style sixteen's Remove sills clean and protect. Upgrade shocks to Bilstein B8 coupled with Eibach springs Replace air conditioning ... And Enjoy Most of the Hit list would not need doing but I have the parts .. Why not.. Photos from the advert.. More on arrival.. The common fuel cap rust problem will be sorted , So I Hope you will join us for the progress and we can all sleep easier knowing another 540i/6 has been saved from the Drift brigade. -
  9. Hi, I recently purchased a bmw 525i M Sport LCI 57 plate(Automatic transmission). Im wondering if ianyone can help me out. So in short my car is making a noise from the engine maybe a motor/pump? Something that rotates? (see attached video). The noise is not present on cold But Gets louder when the car warms up. When i give a little gas the noise goes faster (noise disappears above 1500RPM+). I have changed the spark plugs, filters ect.. no difference. Doing an oil change soon. Now one mechanic said it maybe the timing chain, VANOS or hydrolic lifters? Which i doubt because (using a stethoscope) the noise is different to the timing chain noise. Now i have narrowed the noise down to a specific part it is loudest just behind the pulley's after some research i found out it is the vacuum pump related to the breaking system. Could this pump cause such a loud noise like this? I don't want to risk buying a new pump for around 350GBP and it does not sort the problem out. Any recommendations? Any ideas what it could be? If video doesn't work here is the youtube link: IMG_8021.MOV
  10. Hi everyone, New to the forum, new to E34's, but not to BMWs...Had an E30 325i for about 3 years and the main reason why I sold it, was because I lost the battle with the rust. The only proper way to do it would be to fully strip the car and rectify the rust all over the place, as it was pretty much everywhere you can imagine, i.e. sills, arches, front, rear and even the roof. Have recently bought a 1993 E34 525i and did a lot of research before buying, so I knew that they rust very similarly to E30s. This example looks very clean to me, there's some work required on the jacking points, but overall they are in very good nic considering the age of the car. My main concern is the roof, because the headliner is sagging a bit on the rear and this is a sunroof model, so I don't want to take the headliner off and find a rotten roof. On my E30 (also sunroof model) it was quite obvious that roof was rusty, because you could simply press with your fingers around the B/C pillars and you could hear the rust crunching - that's how bad it was. On this E34, I've pressed all around the pillars and around the sunroof and all seems solid to me, nothing obvious to indicate that there's any rust there, but then I don't know how common is roof rust on E34s with sunroofs? This is a question of whether I'll be keeping the car or not, because repairing sills and arches is one thing, but tackling the roof is a whole another story... Another thing I noticed, when peeling away the cloth material from the headliner around the driver's roof handle, I can see it's all brown in there, but to me it looks like the material from the headliner cardboard, rather than rust...Again, not too sure, so possibly I'll take a few pictures to show you what I mean... Overall, I love the car and having previously owned an E30, I know what to expect from old BMWs lol...BMW stands for "bring my wallet" and all that... There are little things here and there that need sorting, but I just want to make sure I haven't bought a rust bucket before I get too carried away with buying parts, repairing things, etc... Thanks for your help. Stephan
  11. so decided to change my front shock obs as they were looking worn off , and while i was at it decided to change the track control arm , control arm & the stabilizer link . having a problem finding rear shocks as non available here in the market . any good websites that sell good rear shock for my model ? any advice ?? other things that i might need to consider
  12. Hello and welcome to my E34 progress blog . It all started one day passing a used car sales centre,something catched my eye so on the 18/9/07 she was mine Well Its a orient blue e34 525se 1995(N) and 117k on the clock . production date 13/7/1995 registration date 8/8/95 from Bates BMW Essex Hungerford BMW oil service @ 9,641 - 27/11/95 Heathrow BMW inspection 2 @ 32,968- 25/9/96 Bates BMW inspection 1 @ 57,436- 12/12/97 Bates BMW oil service @ 67,395 - 24/9/98 and five sets of headlights till 24/9.98 Ordered options : - Leather seats - Sports steering wheel - 5 speed automatic - V Spoke style 54-7jx14-205/55 ( Brought car with metrics :S =/ ) - Shadow line - Floor mates - Air Con - LSD - Additional fuel for export of vehicles First vehicle Inspection under my ownership Well, i went for the full monty had a Inspection 2. This was the list of " Needing attention " - Front brake discs below minimum - Brake fluided due for change - Handbrake shoes cracked - Drive belt cracked - Air conditioning non cooling - Ns ball joint - Os drop link - Rear axle bushes gone - Pit man links - Rust on brake pipes and fuel pipes - Four metric tyres - Drivers side fog lamp Pics to follow... Progress blog index - 2010/2011 - Page One - Rear Blind Crash & New Wheels 2011/2012 - Page Two - Suspension Overhaul With Lows White Lights 540 Bumper Boot Spoiler 2012/2012 - Page Three - Sports Bumpers Brake Line Overhaul Photos & New Bumper Trims 2012/2012 - Page Four - Yellow Fog Lights Front Strut Brace & New Water Bottle 2012/2012 - Page Five - Back To Orange Lights New Engine Trim & Throwing Stars 2012/2012 - Page Six - Chit Chat & Drives Side Rust Repair & Painted 2012/2013 - Page Seven - Chit Chat Sports Bumpers Painted New RD Badges & Getting Ready For A Full Spray 2013/2013 - Page Eight - Chit Chat New Drivers Wing Repairing Of Doors And New Bottoms Door Trims 2013/2013 - Page Eight - Ordered Ultra Racing Lower Strut Brace And M5 Electric Half Leather Seats 2013/2014 Page Nine - M5 Seats Fitted Rear Seat Box Lid Repaired Stripping For Paint And Quarter Blinds 2014/2015 Page Ten - Bodyshop Photos Rear Parking Sensors New Staggered Wheels 2015/2015 Page Eleven - Reassembling Painted And Fitted Wheels 2015/2015 Page Twelve - New Mirrors Interior Change Five Years Of The Progress Blog
  13. Unfortunately I had a small parking ding with my 2010 F07. Bloody typical, I've had absolutely rotten cars for years and when you buy a good one something happens to it! Didn't look to bad but after a couple of days spider web mark and a crease appeared so I'd like to change the bumper skin. I phoned BMW and was given a ridiculous number £500-700, so bad Ive completely dismissed it. A quick look on ebay I found only one for £272.67 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400813421897?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Should I be looking anywhere else? I want the car to look and feel right
  14. Hello fellow forum members, here I would like to present my BMW 525i AUTO as when I bought it in December 2014. Not a massive fan of the grey interior. And here is the dream. To drive it around Europe. A considerable amount of time has elapsed already, and much more will pass; its a journey. It is also journey in gaining knowledge and experience of mechanics, because at the time of purchasing this car I didn’t have a clue. I was to learn so much within the first few months of working on this car. 2015 jobs completed: Headlight replacement Water pump and belt Driver side door lock actuator and door handle Thermostat and housing Shocks and springs (lowered) 2016 jobs completed: Exhaust brackets and hangers New alloys (temporary) To be done: Head gasket Reverse lights Dent removal Respray Refurb leather and probably many more I originally bought my merky, grey beast as a donor car for a 518i that I wanted to restore and modify. This is the 518i. As you can see, the 525i was a far better car! The 525i was purchased December 2014. On the way home it overheated. The radiator had been recently replaced and we found the overheating problem was caused by an improperly bled coolant system from whoever fitted the new radiator. The car drove badly, the shocks were knackered, headlight was smashed and we were loosing water. Job no.1 - find that leak. Jan 2015 - Firstly we found the water pump was leaking severely so we replaced that. The spindle was wobbling about all over the place and water was pouring out of it. Fun job! During this time I also replaced the smashed headlight with the good one from the 518. Yes, the 518 wasn’t a complete waste. In fact, one of it’s wing mirror plastic covers was resprayed and replaced a very butchered one on the 525i, and various bits of trim and clips were salvaged. I also ripped all the door cards off to oil the window mechanisms and to replace the driver side door lock actuator and handle. Replacing the water pump didn’t seem to fix the entire leak. It was better but wasn’t completely eradicated. With the help of one of my more mechanically minded work colleagues, I discovered the thermostat housing was leaking. There was dry coolant residue around the fixing points, so the housing and the thermostat it itself was replaced. There was still a coolant leak! Much smaller as you could imagine but still enough to be a concern. I kept the car on the road to monitor the leak, to do this I thought it would be a good idea to make it more safer to drive so my next job was to replace the shocks and springs. The 518i was sold on to a car breaker around this time. I got my money back on it via the spares I removed. I also looked at my reversing lights as they weren’t working. The cabling loom that runs into the boot lid had wires with cracked insulation and some had snapped. I cut the bad cabling out and soldered in some fresh cable but it still didn’t fix the problem. The fuse and bulbs were fine which mean’t it had to be the switch on the gearbox, unfortunately located on the top as they are with the autos. Bummer. July 2015 - For the 525i suspension, I purchased Bilstein shocks and Vogtland lowering springs. 40mm lower at the front, and 20mm at the back. This was a massive job for me, having little experience at this point with cars this was fantastic. I thoroughly enjoyed spending many hours ripping the interior and the under carriage of this car apart, drinking beer in the sunshine upon the sloped brick patio at the entrance to the garage, listening to ACDC. Life was good. Anyway, with the Bimmer lowered she looked the part. Those wheels started to grow on me. It was a fix/modification that subtly changed the aesthetics, but massively changed the handling. Phooaar she drove nice. That leak was still there though. Looking for this leak, I found no signs at all and from reading some forums online it had to be the headgasket. I enjoyed the car for the summer as the leak got worse and worse and in the end I parked it up for the winter. March/April 2016 - A few of weeks ago I put it on the road with the intention of getting the leak looked at by a pro to confirm that it was definitely the head gasket. The exhaust fell off on the way. Dam. Two brackets had rotted out and the rubber hangers had perished. All fixed and my friend (the mechanic) found no signs of leaks other than dried coolant residue sitting between the head and the block. Hmmm. It had to be the head gasket and to confirm this, I put in some K seal. No more leaks! Which is great so I can drive it round for the summer but bad news as it is definitely the head gasket. Before I start the daunting task of a head gasket replacement, I refurbished some alloys sold to me by a colleague. They look pretty good even though they’re not the wheels I really want, but its a step in the right direction. The car needs some serious bodywork which will come in good time. So this is the point I am at. Much more work to be done. I cannot wait to get on with the head gasket. Some other photos: I shall update on my progress.
  15. Hi Guys, Been wanting to buy an E34 to have a collectable/occasional use car. Seen one on sale which is a 1990 525i SE 4 speed auto. It's done 96k backed up with history and it also has a very clean MOT history (so mainly straight passes). Has all the usual SE spec such as AC/Sunroof etc and even heated front seats, its in a glacier blue colour with matching blue interior! Anyway my question is, what sort of common issues do I look out for? I don't have too much mechanical knowledge so I want to know for things I can spot fairly easily. The advert also says its a more reliable version than the later VANOS model, so I need more info about VANOS models and why this is more reliable etc. Also, what sort of price would you pay for an E34 like this? (I'm in the UK) Any help is appreciated! Many thanks Ash
  16. Hi All, I am in need of some help/adice on an issue that has developed over the last few weeks... The car is a 2007 520D with the M47N2 engine. When the car is started from cold, there are fumes that are coming from the the back fothe engine on the air filter side as shown in the following vid: I had the glow plugs rep[laced some time ago as 1 of them was failing. Thereafter I had the car serviced and I am seeing faults come up for all 4 glow plugs, which Ive asked about separately on this forum and people here have suggested that it is a faulty low plug relay. I need to get that replaced. After the car warms up the fumes are no longer present and there is no loss of power or any difference in performance. The only other thing that has been happening for some time now ifs that when cold started, the engine idles but judders slightly here and there like a misfire, if I rev it it goes away for a while then returns, but once the car is warmed there is no more judder, its only present when cold starting. Any ideas? could it be the glow plugs or the relay causing this? I ask this because I think the plugs (possibly relay too) is the only thing that heats up on a cold start, is that right? If so, this could be the only hing that could be getting really hot enough for fumes to develop? Thanks in advance for your replies.
  17. Ok for the last 2 or 3 weeks my battery light has been constantly on . Iv had no ill effects although the battery isn't very old . The car starts runs and drives fine. Is there any reasons why the light would be constantly on?
  18. Hello all, I've been reading into upgrading the brakes on my E34. I noticed that a lot of people will go the E31 Brembo 4-pots for the front, and 540i brakes in the rear. There are many threads here, and I've read through most of them. Anyway, I decided that instead of going this route, I would instead go for the lighter (well same weight as single pots for E34/E32) 4-pot Brembo's from the E38. I managed to source a nice CHEAP, fully functional set from my local breaker. I've got a drawing to have some adapters made up, as the E38 brakes are not direct bolt on. This was obviously discussed at length in this thread. I'm now at the point where I'm ready to install the calipers up front, but I need to find out which brake hoses to use. Are the E38 and E34 brake hoses the same internal diameter, will they work with the brembos, or do I need E38 brake hoses? This is one piece of information I've been unable to find whilst researching quite a lot. I know there are a few people here who have done this upgrade, maybe they can shed some light? I believe the hoses will be the same size, however, I don't have extra hose to hand to test this out. Thanks for anyone who can help!
  19. After driving a BMW 1 Series E87, which i very much enjoyed the nippiness of it. for roughly 2 years of owning the car i thought to my self i need a bigger car, and before i knew it, an opportunity came for buying a BMW E60 LCI in Dark Blue after driving it for many months i really liked the feel of how it handles its massive space. and for some reason i got bored with its looks and it felt that I'm driving an older man's car, which people would think its my fathers car or something, i found my self looking at M5 bumpers, since it had more of an aggressive look compared to the LCI SE bumpers. also i kind of didn't like the original colour of the car since it was not blue and not black so the dark blue had to go. so with the help of friends i wrapped my car in Matte Royal Blue slowly this have been turning from a simple E60 SE to some thing that puts a smile every time i look at it, (thinking how it will look ) Next M5 bumper installation !! After waiting for my bumper to arrive and my car looking half wrapped and half original just looked odd. And it arrived in a bumper box that I have never seen before , well packed. So so installation process began After many attempts to align the bumper and get the spacing correct it was on had to transfer all the parking sensors brackets and cabling to the new bumper even had to drill the holes for the sensors since it doesn't come with hols due to the different parking sensors in the LCI not a problem an pilot hole is marked to correct positioning. The chrome had to go and give it that meaner look. Getting somewhere wrap about 80% complete at this stage A nice mean shot of the front in dark. Number plate on and picture of it in the day light boot was open since I was fitting the rear number plate. Many of you lot won't notice but my headlights inners have been removed. This is because something dark and deep is happening to them. Will post more about this in couple of days. Just to keep you on your toes !!! time to heat them up and open them New rings RGB with the ability to change the colour on your phone ! sorry old rings you got to go where you belong in the bin. quick picture of the demon eyes when its on already liking the outcome. all boring silver sprayed in a nice deep blue with extra clear coat for that deep gloss look. that's enough for now. What do you lot think ?
  20. Hello, I thought it was time to start a log of my car and it's progress. I brought this car on 24th May 2016. I looked at cars as far north as Middlesborough and as far south as London and ended up buying a car 10 minutes away from me in Leicester! I'm the third owner of the car, with the mileage currently on 161,600! It runs sweet, has full BMW service history and has had no faults that I'm aware of! It already had tinted windows and the shadowline/black grills. The previous owner also installed Ice white halo's. My plans are: - Full detail incl. Gtechniq C1 sealant - Low profile roof rack and roof box (May include wrapping the roof for protection) - Fix stone chipped bumper - Upgrade sat-nav - Done - Maybe a detachable towbar - Remap after 6 months (want to gauge condition of everything) - iDrive interface with reverse camera? - Dash camera Here are some pictures
  21. Maybe you kind peeps can shed some light on this (sorry had to do it - couldn't help myself). After driving the E34 back and forth yesterday including in the dark, I have come to the conclusion that the uprated head light bulbs are just not really up to the job. My E38 has HID and they are so much better than the standard Charles Dickens candle like bulbs. So anyway onto the question, if i were to retrofit / upgrade to HID lights would I need to install the headlight washer system for MOT time?
  22. Just had some new genuine BMW brake pads put on the front. (Independent garage) Brakes are pretty squeaky even after being lubed. Been worn in as well Any advice
  23. Hi guys I would like some bits coding onto my car if it's possible. welcome lights would be nice I believe I have the right module as my car is a 2007 but pre lci so very late version. would also like audible tone when locking unlocking etc. can anyone help?
  24. E39

    From the album BMW E39 Project

    Temporary on 15 inch wheels in the rear, but the pic came out very well :)
  25. Hi Rummaging through the crap in my house and I came across an iPod box and BMW cable. If anyone wants them, please drop me a message with your address and I'll post it out free of charge. I don't have a 5 anymore, and I don't think they'll fit in the Golf Cheers Matt