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Found 146 results

  1. I have recently upgraded my front/rear suspension to a full Bilstein B12 kit, so everything that was originally on the car is now for sale. I also made a mistake of buying wrong top mounts, which are suitable only for normal suspension, NOT sport, so they are also for sale, along with new front spring cups and spring pads, various new washers/nuts and brand-new front Sachs dust covers and bump stops. The full list of items for sale is as below with their part numbers: x2 Used front shock absorbers made by Boge: 834903003128 x2 Used front springs - not sure what make they are, most likely genuine BMW x2 New front top mounts made by Bilstein, including new nuts - 12-248605 (OEM part number: 31331139452) - these are suitable for the above shocks x1 New Sachs front dust cover kit, includes front shock absorber dust covers and bump stops - 900 004 x2 New BMW front shock absorber top nuts - 31321139422 x2 New BMW front washers for the top nuts - 07119905829 x2 New BMW front washers that go under the top mounts - 31331110196 x2 New BMW front washers that sit between the top mounts and the spring cups - 31336776760 x2 New BMW front spring cups - 31331128524 x2 New BMW front upper spring pads - 31331128523 x2 Used BMW front lower spring pads x2 New BMW front spacers, these are the first thing to go on the shocks - 31321129977 x2 Genuine used BMW rear shock absorbers (made by BOGE), complete with springs, top mounts and all the hardware - 33521135860 I don't have new top mounts for the rear shocks, as the ones that I bought matched my car, so we got them fitted with the new suspension. However, I would advise buying new top mounts for the rear before you fit the shocks. Also the bump stops on the rear have split, so ideally you'll also need new bump stops for the rear. Overall, the shocks and springs were in good condition before we removed them, but obviously keep in mind that they are probably 20+ years old, so don't expect Ferrari-like handling. However, if you need something soft and comfortable to waft you along, then these will do the job fine. They were removed from my 1992 E34 525i, so please make sure they fit your car before you commit to buy. The BMW bits along with the top mounts cost me £100+, so if I get £150 for the whole lot, then I'll be happy with that. Due to size and weight, this will have to be a collection-only from west London, but if you pay the asking price, then I could probably deliver them to you, assuming you are not too far away from London. PM me, if interested. Thanks for looking.
  2. Hello And Welcome I'm a firm beleaver that somethings are just meant to be and today that philosophy come bouncing into play much like it did with the Silver Unit ( Butler HQs Original Silver 540i ) Today innocently going to view an E34 with my Poppa ( Carl-E34 ).. 100 + miles from home as you do on arrival I became strongly attached to this diamond in the rough I couldn't help but think with a little Butler HQ love It could make a very special E34 and I truly thought that maybe Butler HQ was its last hope. Shes defiantly a project make no mistake about that but what else are you gonna do on a cold damp winter weekend ? before I could pull myself away as in the worlds of the late Marlon Brando the seller made me an offer I couldn't refuse... and a deal was done. I'll be embarking on this project with one person in mind. Tomorrow will be the full fat first update with all the great and gory details. Comments Welcome.
  3. Gaining access to car

    Just discovered that I cannot unlock my car after disconnecting the battery, is there a way around this or do I have to somehow get power to it? Thankyou in advance Alex
  4. Hubs and Axles

    Ok I have been onto my bmw dealer to ask this question but they don't really know, are the stub axles and hubs interchangeable from a 1990 model to a 1994, the only part number I have found to be different is the hub.Any information on this will be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Alex
  5. Hi, looking for a replacement front door as title. thanks mike
  6. What transmissions fit

    Just a quick question, my 94 525 has a 5hp18 5 speed auto in it which is slowly dieing, are the gearboxes model specific or will one from another model? All information appreciated. Thanks in advance Alex
  7. Start up

    Never had this problem before I had trouble starting the engine after I had moved it about 20 feet then turned the engine off, went to start it again and it was if the engine had flooded, is this a common problem? after I got it running and drove it for about 6kms turned it off and when I started it again it was like the problem was never there.Any ideas? Thanks in advance Alex
  8. Hey everyone, Decided to start a project thread for my E34 525i, as I've learned a lot from this and other forums before I actually bought the car and while working on it, so I thought sharing my ownership experience will help others to know what to expect from this car and make it easier to get the right parts, know what's involved in the jobs, etc. Having previously owned an E30 325i for over 3 years, one thing I learned about old BMWs is that if you get one with more or less rust-free bodywork, then all the rest of the car, i.e. engine/brakes/suspension can be pretty easily sorted, assuming you haven't bought a completely thrashed example. The reason why I sold my E30 was simply rust - it was everywhere you could imagine - sills, jacking points, front/rear arches, rear panel, front panel and even the roof (it was a sunroof model). To make it 100% right, it would have to be a complete restoration... As much as I love old BMWs, I didn't really want to go through the same things over again with an E34, so I spent literally 1 year looking for one...It had to be a manual, it had to be a 525i and most importantly it had to be in a reasonable condition bodywork-wise. Based on what I've seen and read, E34s rust very similar to other BMWs from the same era, so watch out for rusty jacking points and generally sills, especially on models that had side skirts fitted, then front and rear arches can be bad too (although the front wings can be replaced easily), then the boot lid is quite common to rust on E34s (around the number plate lights and around the edge that meets the rear panel), the bottoms of the doors, where you've got mouldings fitted, around the fuel flap area, and if you are looking at a sunroof model, then you have to be even more careful as the cassettes can be a bit rusty, although roof rust on E34s doesn't seem as common as on E30s. Clearly, the list of possible rust spots is quite extensive, so as I mentioned earlier, when you are looking for an E34, you are looking at bodywork first and all the rest of it second. Engine-wise, it had to be at least a 6 cylinder model for me, because anything less in my opinion, is a bit too slow...525i is a great choice for everything, including performance, economy and maintenance. I've seen a few 540i for sale, but I wanted a manual, so knowing how rare they are in the UK, the prices were unrealistic for me and to be honest, the ones I've seen weren't in the best conditions either. Long story short, just when I was about to give up my search for a decent E34, as I also kept an eye for a more modern E90 330i (no rust, less hassle overall), one unbelievably clean 525i came up for sale and I knew I had to go for it, because otherwise I was simply going to buy an E90, since I was seriously tired of searching. It's a 1993 saloon, pre-facelift model in diamantschwarz metallic with a M50B25TU engine and a manual gearbox. Yes, it does have a sunroof, but after removing the door seals to check the roof, it looks all clean there, although the sunroof cassette does have a few chips on it, they don't bother me at all. The rear jacking points are clean, the fronts are slightly rusty, the rear arches are bubbling a bit on the lower edges, the boot lid is ok, some rust on the bottom of the driver's door and underneath it's pretty clean as well. Grey cloth interior, no A/C (thank god), a sagging headliner and worn wiper linkage - overall, it's still a museum example compared to the E30 that I had... The car did come with a lot of original paperwork, previous MOTs and service history, but I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance and doing things myself, because I like when my cars are 100% mechanically perfect. After scouring the BMW forums all over the Internet, I started making up the list of required parts... Starting with the basic things first, I bought Shell Helix HX7 10W40 engine oil with Mann oil filter, Mann air filter and Valvoline engine flush. Also bought a Gold Plug magnetic sump plug - not sure if they are worth it, but otherwise I would advise getting a new genuine BMW plug and washer. Then moving onto other things as below: Bosch fuel filter - part number: 0 450 905 030 Bosch spark plugs (x6) - part number: 0 242 235 668 (25k miles replacement interval) Bosch Super Plus wiper blades - I initially bought more modern aero wipers, but when it came to fitting them, I didn't realise that E34s had a "reverse hook" wiper on the driver's side. There are various modifications you can do to fit whatever wipers you like, but I decided to stick to OEM and just bought E34-specific regular wipers from ECP with correct fitment. Dayco fan belt (6PK x 1558) - didn't go for a BMW belt, because it was about 40 quid from a dealer, while Dayco was just a tenner from ECP, and Dayco is a quality OEM parts manufacturer anyway, so no problems here. Now an important thing to know about M50 engines is that some of them came with a mechanical tensioner and some with hydraulic one. Done a lot of reading on this and the common recommendation is to replace the mechanical tensioner with a hydraulic one. Luckily INA and other parts manufacturers sell ready kits for doing this, so what I've done is bought a hydraulic tensioner kit and also the free-spinning roller for the alternator. INA hydraulic tensioner kit - part number: 533 0097 10 INA roller - part number: 532 0418 10 Keep in mind, if you have A/C fitted, then you'll also need to buy the A/C belt as well as the tensioner kit for the A/C. Moving onto the cooling side of things - my radiator was swollen on the top for some reason, so I definitely needed a replacement radiator. BMW advised the radiator and the bottle were sold separately and they quoted around £300 for everything, while I was looking at 100 quid tops for a complete rad/bottle online from various reputable makes. Make sure you check properly which radiator you have, because A/C and non A/C models have different size rads (520mm) and automatic cars have different rads as well. After measuring mine, I started looking for the most basic 440mm radiator for manual cars - BMW part number: 17 11 1 712 982 There's a quite large choice of various makes for radiators, but I wanted to stay on the OEM side as much possible, however since the BMW rad was way too pricy, I decided that BEHR/Hella would be a great alternative, since they are a well-known OEM parts manufacturer. I ordered my radiator from http://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/ and it came from Germany, as it was not available anywhere in the UK. Here's the part number for my BEHR/Hella 440mm radiator: 8MK 376 717-461 It was a 100% perfect fit, the only issue we had with it, is that it didn't come with a hole for a coolant level sensor, however you can easily modify it, making a hole where the sensor goes, because otherwise it all fits excellent. I paid just under £100 for it, including delivery, so very happy with it. Then I also bought the fan clutch made by Borg Warner/BEHR/BERU. BEHR fan clutch - part number: 8MV 376 732-231 Sachs fan clutch - part number: 2100 012 131 All are OEM makes, so go for whatever you can find. ECP shows BERU on their website, but the box came labelled Borg Warner, so I'm fine with that. The water pump was about £130 genuine from BMW, which I thought was a bit too much, since I managed to get a HEPU one from ECP for less than £50 and again, HEPU are a decent German brand. HEPU water pump (comes with a gasket) - part number: P472 For the thermostat, first I went with Circoli, but after reading some horror stories about them online, I decided to go genuine BMW and paid £50 for a thermostat and a gasket from BMW. You can either buy a 88 degrees thermostat or 92 one from BMW and all they advise is to check what you already have fitted before you order, which seems a bit silly to me, because these cars are over 20 years old and you don't know whether the stat fitted in the past was the correct spec or not? To be honest, I doubt there will be any catastrophic difference if you go for either of them. Anyway, I decided to go for the 92 degrees thermostat, so the BMW part number you'll need is: 11 53 7 511 083. The gasket comes separate (part no: 11 53 1 265 084) and also make sure to get the thermostat housing gasket - part number: 11 53 1 740 437. I wasn't too fussed about getting specific anti-freeze, so I just went with basic blue 2-year Triple QX anti-freeze that ECP sells and got 5 litres ready mixed for about 8 quid. Also bought some Wynn's white grease to lubricate the door, bonnet and boot lid hinges + locks. To break up the big pile of text above, here's a picture for you to show what it all looked like: And here's the difference between a genuine BMW thermostat and a Circoli one. What I didn't know is that the one made by BMW is actually a Wahler thermostat and you could get the exact same thermostat from eBay for about £30, but obviously it won't have no BMW logo or part number on it, although it will be the same part. Goes to show how dealers make their money on parts. I also bought a few parts from BMW directly, because I thought the price was sensible and also some things are better when they are genuine BMW. It looked like that my valve cover gasket was leaking a bit of oil, so we decided it would be a good idea to replace it, so here's what I got. BMW valve cover gasket kit - part number: 11 12 0 034 107 (keep in mind this is for vehicles fitted with VANOS, so if yours is the older engine, then the part number will be different) BMW valve cover rubber washer seals - part number: 11 12 1 437 395 (you'll need 15 of these) I also bought a genuine engine oil cap (says BMW recommends Castrol on it) - part number: 11 12 7 509 328 And a BMW cap for the radiator as well - part number: 17 11 7 639 022 A common issue with E34 bonnets is that they don't "shoot out" properly, when you pull the bonnet release handle. The usual cause of this are tired bonnet shocks, so I bought a pair from BMW, which cured this problem. BMW bonnet struts (not sided and you'll need 2) - part number: 51 23 1 944 119 They do come with the mounting clips for both ends, so there's no need to buy them separately, although I didn't know that and bought them as well. The shocks are about £30 each, so I guess not too bad, considering you change them once in 20 years. And the finishing touch was the BMW boot lid badge that I bought along with the grommets, as mine was fading away and I wanted to replace it. As far as I know, it applies to the bonnet as well. BMW boot lid badge - part number: 51 14 8 132 375 There are two types of grommets you can order and I'm not sure what's difference, however I had black rubber type fitted on mine: Black badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 807 495 White badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 852 899 And here's a pic of the BMW bits: And that's it. You can see it's quite a lot of parts that I bought and to be honest you don't necessarily HAVE to go this crazy when servicing your E34, but as I mentioned in the beginning of this thread - I like when everything is 100% perfect with my cars, so I prefer to do it once and do it right. This post is getting a bit too long, so I'll finish the story here and I'll update the thread a bit later with a few pictures of how we actually replaced all of the above and then my plans for the next service work on my E34. I want to make this car drive, handle and feel exactly the same as it left the factory, so let's see if I can manage to do it. Thanks for following and any tips/advice much appreciated.
  9. Hi, looking for a replacement front door as title. thanks mike
  10. Suspension

    Reading through one of the links for spare parts I noticed that one of the strut mounts said only for cars without sports suspension, my question is, is there a difference in the strut mounts as I'm looking to swap out the suspension between my 2 E34's, 1 has sport suspension factory fitted and the other does not (my '94). Next, does anyone know if the difference between the 2 suspension systems subtle or or in your face noticeable? All information on this will be much appreciated, thanks in advance Alex
  11. Transmission question

    Any ideas on what a shuddering type of feeling in the car on take off could be telling me? The car is a '94 525i with a 5 speed auto. For most part it is only first gear and if I use the winter mode it takes off in 2nd nice and smooth, it also only happens in E mode. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Alex
  12. I have been doing alot of reading on doing an engine swap from the M20(1990 525i) to M60 engine (1994 era), my question is what is the extra wireing needed under the dash for and is it possible to make it work without it. I do realise that there will be harness changes under the bonnet and computer changes for the engine and trans ( staying auto but upgrading to 5 speed), but what I haven't been able to find out is what the extra under dash wireing is for. All help is appreciated. Thanks in advance Alex
  13. E34 Driver's Side Wiper Arm

    I've got a pre-facelift E34, so it has that stupid reverse-hook wiper arm on the driver's side, which stops me from fitting regular wipers or even aero wipers, because I can only only get basic Bosch wiper blades, which are a direct fit, specifically for an E34. Now as far as I know, the facelifted E34s had this problem fixed and both wiper arms have conventional hooks, so you can fit normal wiper blades, as long as they are the right size, and even easily upgrade to aero blades, if you wanted to. So what I'm after is a facelifted E34 driver's side wiper arm, assuming it's in good condition, straight and not rusty. Please PM me a few photos and your price posted. Thanks
  14. Swapping over parts

    Just wondering, what parts are interchangeable ( excluding engine and gearbox ) between a 1990 model and a 1994?
  15. Radio code

    Does anybody know if it is possible to change the security code on the original BMW radio in an E34? Thanks in advance for any help. Alex
  16. My E34 525i

    It's a bit rough but gets me around
  17. RACING DYNAMICS K38 based on an E34 535i SE SOLD First Reg 19/06/1990, 95000 miles - GENUINE, MOT until 8th Feb 2018 I have owned this car for 7 ½ years now and done less than 10k miles in it. Over this time it has been slowly developed into a very quick track day car which still has it’s full interior installed. Many people are very surprised how quick it is around Bedford Autodrome, my preferred circuit, this is due to the suspension and brakes more than the power/torque. It will go even faster if it is lightened further by removing interior trim etc….. I don’t want to do this. I am only selling it as a very close friend has sold me his very well sorted and fully stripped out track day E46 M3… he is after a Caterham now. I have 3 other cars as well so can’t hang on to the E34, much as I would like to. Racing Dynamics are the only none German tuner of BMW motorcars. Based in Italy with an American Division in California, they are still tuning BMW’s today. Most famous for shoe horning a K55 V12 engine into an E36. This car has been featured in 3 different car magazines over the years the first being Top Car in 1992, Performance BMW in 1999 and Total BMW in 2009, I have copies for the new owner. This car was originally owned by the Racing Dynamics Agent, Formula One Accessories based near Brands hatch. I have not seen another Racing Dynamics E34 in the UK, and have posted on various forums to see if there are other ones about, but to no avail…. this car is super rare, possibly unique in the UK. The original Spec for this car was an M30 engine bored out to 3.8 with a 90mm crankshaft mated to lightweight con rods and forged pistons with low friction rings, RD Spec camshaft and RD’s own chip fitted to the Motronic ECU, Exhaust is RD’s 6 Branch Stainless Manifold which is real work of art, with a stainless system. Fitted with an LSD and an M5 Final drive this car very quick through the gears. Diff oil was changed in 2013 @ 90,762 miles Genuine Racing Dynamics Rocker Cover, Oil Filler Cap, Gear Knob, Mats, Strut brace, Sill plates and Steering Wheel are fitted. Along with the distinctive and beautiful Racing Dynamics Bodykit. Very Rare Factory Electric Glass Sunroof fitted. The car will also come with the original staggered 8.5J Front and 9.5J rear Racing Dynamics RGP Wheels with road tyres. A full set of 4 Racing Dynamics RGP 8.5J tyres fitted with BTCC Slicks that have some life left, and a set of BMW Contours with BTCC wets that also have some life left. During my ownership I have replaced/fitted the following, a lot of it in the last two years. Brakes:- Front – Brand NEW Ceika 6 Pot calipers with Stainless steel pistons and Anti Knock back springs, fully floating 330 x 32 vented discs, running EBC Yellow stuff pads, £1600.00 + Import tax. Spare set of AP Racing Pads included. Rear – Fitted vented rear discs and calipers from an M5/540i running EBC Yellow Stuff pads, Spare set of pads included. Braided Lines all round, Running Motul RBF660 Dot 4 fluid….. no boiling or loss of pedal even after 10+ laps of Bedford, changed early 2017 when the 6 pots were fitted. Suspension:- BC Racing fully adjustable Coilover Suspension front and rear with Adjustable Camber plates with spherical bearing top mounts. Extended Adjusters on rear shocks into rear cabin, Car has been set up on KDS and handles superbly. Over £600 in parts. Lowered steering arm mount to reduce bump steer Most of the suspension has been polybushed with Powerflex bushes. Genuine Racing Dynamics Adjustable Anti-Roll bars fitted front and rear, these are the thickest you can buy for an E34, The front bar is 27 mm with 3 adjustment points and shortened drop links. The rear bar is 19 mm with 2 adjustment points and adjustable heim joint drop links.. Cost around £650 with import taxes Safety:- New XL Bucket seats with runners have been fitted to VAC Motorsport Floor mounts, the drivers seat shown is not coming with the car as it was custom made for my size, XXXL and is going in the M3, I will fit another one before handing over to a new owner. This lot is over £1000 with import taxes. Sparco 3 Point Harness – passenger side currently needs the rear mount point sorting, may get this done before sale, The Std retracting fronts seatbelts are also still fitted and useable for normal journeys, Harness can be very quickly removed so rear passengers can be accommodated. Battery cut out fitted with anti-theft facility Anderson Jump start Plug fitted. Others bits replaced/fitted:- Cosmo Racing Short shift kit K&N Panel filter New Clutch Slave cylinder 2017 New in tank fuel pump 2017 New Propshaft Donut 2017 New Thermostat New Throttle cable Replacement battery Magnecor 7mm Leads with distributor cap, and rotor fitted at same time. Becker CD player with Ipod Connection, Upgraded Hertz Component speakers. Engine immobiliser. In my ownership always run on Mobil 1 motorsport oil and super unleaded Probably lots more that I have forgot. 2 sets of keys, large A4 folder of bills, lots of old MOTs to support the mileage along with lots of old tax discs, the 3 feature magazines and a Racing Dynamics period brochure. Bad points, please remember this car is 27 years old and has been used as a track car, it is not a garage/show queen:- Headlights have some chips/cracks from debris being flung up on track days – I have a second hand set to replace them with and was only going to replace them once actual glass fell out of the ones on the car, still passes MOT though with this. Rust on both offside door trailing corners – I have 2 complete replacement doors to fix this Front bumper has blisters in the paint where moisture has got in and has caused it to bubble and peel. Front nearside fog light out of line due to badger strike on the infamous Berkshire Pistonheads “Badger Run” Hoon. Nearside slide locating bracket to bumper also broken due to this, I have the replacement parts to fix it, bumper just needs removing to do it, you wouldn’t know it was damaged to look at it though. Paint and some interior parts are starting to show signs of sun/heat damage as it is parked outside when not in use. The price reflects its rarity and the investment made in the handling, brakes and safety, you only have to look at track M3 prices to realise they go for a lot more money than a std one. It could easily be put back to a std interior and with some fettling and paint would make a really nice interesting e34. Rare E34’s that have been for sale recently have been offered for much more money, the white Hartge H5s got to over 9k and did not sell I believe, I had spoken to the owner last year and he was talking about £15k plus, a number of Alpina B10 3.5’s have been 10K+. I am open to sensible offers, but don’t expect to knock off £1000’s. Test drives will be with me driving, I am happy to go to track day with a prospective purchaser at Bedford so they can see how well it goes. To arrange a viewing or chat call Robin on 07450 803804 Mobile, or email robmarrs@aol.com, I am not on the forum that often so don’t message me through this please.
  18. Hi guy's just wondering if the e34 m5 throwing star rims would fit on a E60 2007 or am i whistling in the wind??
  19. New e34 owner

    Hey all been lurking around for several years on these forums finally have a reason to sign up! i purchased my e34 520i last week. It's had a recent full respray in technoviolet and has no rust whatsoever (one of my main reasons buying it - I had a prefactlift E30 325i once upon a time which was a rust magnet). I had an e34 535i sport in techno violet and cream leather interior. Needless to say this bought back memories! I will be sticking with the black for now (after front sport seats! I think the rear are same?) It has had a reconditioned auto gearbox fitted and the m50b20 sounds sweet albeit savagely thirsty. It has he electric black leather interior which is more comfortable than my Mk7 GTD heated leather! the car came with a few minor issues needing attention: *power steering pipe leak (low pressure hose) *A/C pump seized *one piece door trim missing (already ordered) *intermittent/crazy central locking! * dash pixels almost dead/ineligible driverside electric recline mechanism link broken (motor working). *sagging headliner im sort of putting off fixing the mechanical niggles as I have a m62b44 and gearbox, ews ecu loom etc. on its way from an e38 740i. I have my daily driver keeping me on the roads for now and my insurance quotations on the e34 are ridiculous (Over £2k..). Just a a few things I need some advice or help with. My car appears to be a facelift right? Wider grille etc? I can't differentiate between the facelift front and pre facelift :s Also, what other e38 bits can I salvage? I have kept the steering wheel and gearknob for now. Brakes? I was inclined to go for the e34 540/m5 upgraded set up as it would be a straightforward fit. Right? If anyone could point me to some e34 specialists who wouldn't mind taking on some work that would be greatly appreciated. I'd like to get my headliner sorted first and foremost. Any trimmers recommended forwards north west London? Slowly but but surely I will get there!! I will try post as and when I start spending time on her. anyway here are some pics of the car. I still need to spend some time giving her a good clean, following some real quality pics (am a photographer by trade!) hope to to meet some cool e34 owners on here!!
  20. Chasing redline information

    I'm curious to know what the redline is supposed to be for my 1994 525i. At the moment I know that in economy mode in drive it changes up @ 6500rpm when floored and in sport mode in drive it shifts up @ 7100rpm is this a standard range for up shift? I am only asking as I am toying with the idea of putting a chip in the ecu. Thanks in advance for any insight. Alex
  21. I bought myself a set of E39 18" M Parallels, as I wanted to improve the handling/stability of my E34, since on original 15's and big tyres it's a bit too bouncy for me. However, I've run into a few problems... First of all, the specs of the wheels that I bought are as below: 8Jx18 ET:20 bore:74mm 36-11-2-229-635 9Jx18 ET:24 bore:74mm 36-11-2-229-640 I know that the M Parallels originally fitted to an E34 M5 had a slightly different offset on the rear, being ET22, but I'm pretty sure that's negligible and won't make any difference re fitment. The front wheels on the E34 M5 are exactly as above. I've done my research before buying the wheels, so I knew that the centre bore of the E39 is slightly larger than on the E34, that's why I bought hub rings to make sure the wheels will sit properly on the hub. The strange thing is that when I actually fitted them, the wheels sat perfectly centered on the hub and I didn't even had to use the rings? So I was a bit confused? I know that if you fit wheels with the centre bore not sitting properly on the hub and the wheel just hanging on the bolts, then you normally get vibrations on high speeds, but the above wheels sat perfectly fine on the hub without any rings needed? I haven't driven the car at high speeds yet, so I guess I'll find out if I need to fit the rings or not.....Anyone with similar experience? Another thing I wanted to ask is the tyre fitment.... The factory spec of E39 M Parallels is 235/40/18 on the front and 265/35/18 on the rear. I wanted to keep the tyre specs as per E34 M5, so I bought 4 tyres sized 245/40/18 since according to BMW M Registry, all the latest E34 M5's had this setup. The rear seems to be fine to me, but when I fitted the fronts I noticed that the gap between the strut and the tyre is almost non-existent. So that got me a bit worried and when driving home I could hear very slight hissing/rubbing noise, which obviously wasn't there before I changed the wheels. I got home and upon checking the tyres, the rears look ok to me, but the fronts have this very slight wear on the inner edge, which I think is exactly where it rubs on the strut? See images below: The noise/rubbing is very minimal and sometimes you don't even hear anything at all, so that probably explains why the marks are so minor, because I drove the car about 5-6 miles after fitting the wheels. As far as I understand, the inner wear that you see on the photos is where it's rubbing, correct? That can't be normal? Now the question is, why are the 245/40/18 tyres rubbing on the front, when the wheel/tyre spec is exactly the same as on the E34 M5? The suspension is all stock, by the way. Should I go with E39 tyre specs (235/40/18), as above? The gap between the front strut and the tyre is so tiny that I'm even thinking to run 225/40/18 on the front? Does that sound ok? Or 225/45/18, not sure what would be the correct setup? Please advise. So yeah, overall I'm happy the way the car looks and the ride seems fine, but couldn't figure out how the wheels fitted nicely with no hub rings and why the front tyres are rubbing, when specs seems to be correct for the E34? Appreciate your help. Thanks
  22. E34 M5 Discs and Pads

    I just bought a set of E34 M5 ATE front and rear calipers with carriers to put on to my E28 M535i. Does anyone recommend a good place to buy E34 M5 discs and pads so I can source these ahead of the calipers arriving. F: 315 x 28mm fronts34112226873/87434112226385 R: 300 x 20mm rears3421115965934211160 399/400 Thanks!
  23. Hello and welcome to my E34 progress blog . It all started one day passing a used car sales centre,something catched my eye so on the 18/9/07 she was mine Well Its a orient blue e34 525se 1995(N) and 117k on the clock . production date 13/7/1995 registration date 8/8/95 from Bates BMW Essex Hungerford BMW oil service @ 9,641 - 27/11/95 Heathrow BMW inspection 2 @ 32,968- 25/9/96 Bates BMW inspection 1 @ 57,436- 12/12/97 Bates BMW oil service @ 67,395 - 24/9/98 and five sets of headlights till 24/9.98 Ordered options : - Leather seats - Sports steering wheel - 5 speed automatic - V Spoke style 54-7jx14-205/55 ( Brought car with metrics :S =/ ) - Shadow line - Floor mates - Air Con - LSD - Additional fuel for export of vehicles First vehicle Inspection under my ownership Well, i went for the full monty had a Inspection 2. This was the list of " Needing attention " - Front brake discs below minimum - Brake fluided due for change - Handbrake shoes cracked - Drive belt cracked - Air conditioning non cooling - Ns ball joint - Os drop link - Rear axle bushes gone - Pit man links - Rust on brake pipes and fuel pipes - Four metric tyres - Drivers side fog lamp Pics to follow... Progress blog index - 2010/2011 - Page One - Rear Blind Crash & New Wheels 2011/2012 - Page Two - Suspension Overhaul With Lows White Lights 540 Bumper Boot Spoiler 2012/2012 - Page Three - Sports Bumpers Brake Line Overhaul Photos & New Bumper Trims 2012/2012 - Page Four - Yellow Fog Lights Front Strut Brace & New Water Bottle 2012/2012 - Page Five - Back To Orange Lights New Engine Trim & Throwing Stars 2012/2012 - Page Six - Chit Chat & Drives Side Rust Repair & Painted 2012/2013 - Page Seven - Chit Chat Sports Bumpers Painted New RD Badges & Getting Ready For A Full Spray 2013/2013 - Page Eight - Chit Chat New Drivers Wing Repairing Of Doors And New Bottoms Door Trims 2013/2013 - Page Eight - Ordered Ultra Racing Lower Strut Brace And M5 Electric Half Leather Seats 2013/2014 Page Nine - M5 Seats Fitted Rear Seat Box Lid Repaired Stripping For Paint And Quarter Blinds 2014/2015 Page Ten - Bodyshop Photos Rear Parking Sensors New Staggered Wheels 2015/2015 Page Eleven - Reassembling Painted And Fitted Wheels 2015/2015 Page Twelve - New Mirrors Interior Change Five Years Of The Progress Blog
  24. After a while being away from 5 series I bought back my old 530i. It now needs a master cylinder and I'm wondering if anyone knows for one or an alternative that will fiit. It's an early 1993 E34 530i v8 with an ATE cylinder. The pipe fittings are all the same size, 10mm, not 12 and 10mm like later versions. Do you know if the Girling version is a straight swap, or if a cylinder from a different model in the range will fit, or perhaps from a different series car, like an E28 or whatever?
  25. Following on from my introduction pot a week or so ago, finally got out to take a few pics today to show the good and not-so-good bits of Christine. First of all a couple of overall shots out in the sunshine: The problem bits are: O/S/F wing parking dent. The lights need to come out to sort it, but they need to some out for cleaning anyway so - weather permitting - that may be on the cards for next weekend: N/S/F door mirror and surrounding area, multiple chips. Not sure how they got there but they need to go! N/S/R wheel arch. This may well be more serious than it looks - I'm under no illusions about that, but the area is generally solid so should be able to catch it without really major surgery: O/S/F and R door corners. The front isn't bad yet - have had the door card off to do the window in the past week and it's not going to be a hole + the rest of the lower edge is good. have a couple of tins of Dinitrol on hand for the inside / seam once the cosmetic's done. The white dots are reflections of bird *** on the road btw N/S/R bumper corner from before we got her: There's also a scuff on the N/S/F bumper corner (vsible in the second pic) but that should be little more than a polish out. The O/S/R corner is unblemished
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