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Found 156 results

  1. 1994 BMW E34 540I - GF22093

    Hello And Welcome I'm a firm believer that somethings are just meant to be and today that philosophy come bouncing into play much like it did with the Silver Unit ( Butler HQs Original Silver 540i ) Today innocently going to view an E34 with my Poppa ( Carl-E34 ).. 100 + miles from home as you do on arrival I became strongly attached to this diamond in the rough I couldn't help but think with a little Butler HQ love It could make a very special E34 and I truly thought that maybe Butler HQ was its last hope. Shes defiantly a project make no mistake about that but what else are you gonna do on a cold damp winter weekend ? before I could pull myself away as in the worlds of the late Marlon Brando the seller made me an offer I couldn't refuse... and a deal was done. I'll be embarking on this project with one person in mind. Tomorrow will be the full fat first update with all the great and gory details. Comments Welcome.
  2. Hey everyone, Decided to start a project thread for my E34 525i, as I've learned a lot from this and other forums before I actually bought the car and while working on it, so I thought sharing my ownership experience will help others to know what to expect from this car and make it easier to get the right parts, know what's involved in the jobs, etc. Having previously owned an E30 325i for over 3 years, one thing I learned about old BMWs is that if you get one with more or less rust-free bodywork, then all the rest of the car, i.e. engine/brakes/suspension can be pretty easily sorted, assuming you haven't bought a completely thrashed example. The reason why I sold my E30 was simply rust - it was everywhere you could imagine - sills, jacking points, front/rear arches, rear panel, front panel and even the roof (it was a sunroof model). To make it 100% right, it would have to be a complete restoration... As much as I love old BMWs, I didn't really want to go through the same things over again with an E34, so I spent literally 1 year looking for one...It had to be a manual, it had to be a 525i and most importantly it had to be in a reasonable condition bodywork-wise. Based on what I've seen and read, E34s rust very similar to other BMWs from the same era, so watch out for rusty jacking points and generally sills, especially on models that had side skirts fitted, then front and rear arches can be bad too (although the front wings can be replaced easily), then the boot lid is quite common to rust on E34s (around the number plate lights and around the edge that meets the rear panel), the bottoms of the doors, where you've got mouldings fitted, around the fuel flap area, and if you are looking at a sunroof model, then you have to be even more careful as the cassettes can be a bit rusty, although roof rust on E34s doesn't seem as common as on E30s. Clearly, the list of possible rust spots is quite extensive, so as I mentioned earlier, when you are looking for an E34, you are looking at bodywork first and all the rest of it second. Engine-wise, it had to be at least a 6 cylinder model for me, because anything less in my opinion, is a bit too slow...525i is a great choice for everything, including performance, economy and maintenance. I've seen a few 540i for sale, but I wanted a manual, so knowing how rare they are in the UK, the prices were unrealistic for me and to be honest, the ones I've seen weren't in the best conditions either. Long story short, just when I was about to give up my search for a decent E34, as I also kept an eye for a more modern E90 330i (no rust, less hassle overall), one unbelievably clean 525i came up for sale and I knew I had to go for it, because otherwise I was simply going to buy an E90, since I was seriously tired of searching. It's a 1993 saloon, pre-facelift model in diamantschwarz metallic with a M50B25TU engine and a manual gearbox. Yes, it does have a sunroof, but after removing the door seals to check the roof, it looks all clean there, although the sunroof cassette does have a few chips on it, they don't bother me at all. The rear jacking points are clean, the fronts are slightly rusty, the rear arches are bubbling a bit on the lower edges, the boot lid is ok, some rust on the bottom of the driver's door and underneath it's pretty clean as well. Grey cloth interior, no A/C (thank god), a sagging headliner and worn wiper linkage - overall, it's still a museum example compared to the E30 that I had... The car did come with a lot of original paperwork, previous MOTs and service history, but I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance and doing things myself, because I like when my cars are 100% mechanically perfect. After scouring the BMW forums all over the Internet, I started making up the list of required parts... Starting with the basic things first, I bought Shell Helix HX7 10W40 engine oil with Mann oil filter, Mann air filter and Valvoline engine flush. Also bought a Gold Plug magnetic sump plug - not sure if they are worth it, but otherwise I would advise getting a new genuine BMW plug and washer. Then moving onto other things as below: Bosch fuel filter - part number: 0 450 905 030 Bosch spark plugs (x6) - part number: 0 242 235 668 (25k miles replacement interval) Bosch Super Plus wiper blades - I initially bought more modern aero wipers, but when it came to fitting them, I didn't realise that E34s had a "reverse hook" wiper on the driver's side. There are various modifications you can do to fit whatever wipers you like, but I decided to stick to OEM and just bought E34-specific regular wipers from ECP with correct fitment. Dayco fan belt (6PK x 1558) - didn't go for a BMW belt, because it was about 40 quid from a dealer, while Dayco was just a tenner from ECP, and Dayco is a quality OEM parts manufacturer anyway, so no problems here. Now an important thing to know about M50 engines is that some of them came with a mechanical tensioner and some with hydraulic one. Done a lot of reading on this and the common recommendation is to replace the mechanical tensioner with a hydraulic one. Luckily INA and other parts manufacturers sell ready kits for doing this, so what I've done is bought a hydraulic tensioner kit and also the free-spinning roller for the alternator. INA hydraulic tensioner kit - part number: 533 0097 10 INA roller - part number: 532 0418 10 Keep in mind, if you have A/C fitted, then you'll also need to buy the A/C belt as well as the tensioner kit for the A/C. Moving onto the cooling side of things - my radiator was swollen on the top for some reason, so I definitely needed a replacement radiator. BMW advised the radiator and the bottle were sold separately and they quoted around £300 for everything, while I was looking at 100 quid tops for a complete rad/bottle online from various reputable makes. Make sure you check properly which radiator you have, because A/C and non A/C models have different size rads (520mm) and automatic cars have different rads as well. After measuring mine, I started looking for the most basic 440mm radiator for manual cars - BMW part number: 17 11 1 712 982 There's a quite large choice of various makes for radiators, but I wanted to stay on the OEM side as much possible, however since the BMW rad was way too pricy, I decided that BEHR/Hella would be a great alternative, since they are a well-known OEM parts manufacturer. I ordered my radiator from http://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/ and it came from Germany, as it was not available anywhere in the UK. Here's the part number for my BEHR/Hella 440mm radiator: 8MK 376 717-461 It was a 100% perfect fit, the only issue we had with it, is that it didn't come with a hole for a coolant level sensor, however you can easily modify it, making a hole where the sensor goes, because otherwise it all fits excellent. I paid just under £100 for it, including delivery, so very happy with it. Then I also bought the fan clutch made by Borg Warner/BEHR/BERU. BEHR fan clutch - part number: 8MV 376 732-231 Sachs fan clutch - part number: 2100 012 131 All are OEM makes, so go for whatever you can find. ECP shows BERU on their website, but the box came labelled Borg Warner, so I'm fine with that. The water pump was about £130 genuine from BMW, which I thought was a bit too much, since I managed to get a HEPU one from ECP for less than £50 and again, HEPU are a decent German brand. HEPU water pump (comes with a gasket) - part number: P472 For the thermostat, first I went with Circoli, but after reading some horror stories about them online, I decided to go genuine BMW and paid £50 for a thermostat and a gasket from BMW. You can either buy a 88 degrees thermostat or 92 one from BMW and all they advise is to check what you already have fitted before you order, which seems a bit silly to me, because these cars are over 20 years old and you don't know whether the stat fitted in the past was the correct spec or not? To be honest, I doubt there will be any catastrophic difference if you go for either of them. Anyway, I decided to go for the 92 degrees thermostat, so the BMW part number you'll need is: 11 53 7 511 083. The gasket comes separate (part no: 11 53 1 265 084) and also make sure to get the thermostat housing gasket - part number: 11 53 1 740 437. I wasn't too fussed about getting specific anti-freeze, so I just went with basic blue 2-year Triple QX anti-freeze that ECP sells and got 5 litres ready mixed for about 8 quid. Also bought some Wynn's white grease to lubricate the door, bonnet and boot lid hinges + locks. To break up the big pile of text above, here's a picture for you to show what it all looked like: And here's the difference between a genuine BMW thermostat and a Circoli one. What I didn't know is that the one made by BMW is actually a Wahler thermostat and you could get the exact same thermostat from eBay for about £30, but obviously it won't have no BMW logo or part number on it, although it will be the same part. Goes to show how dealers make their money on parts. I also bought a few parts from BMW directly, because I thought the price was sensible and also some things are better when they are genuine BMW. It looked like that my valve cover gasket was leaking a bit of oil, so we decided it would be a good idea to replace it, so here's what I got. BMW valve cover gasket kit - part number: 11 12 0 034 107 (keep in mind this is for vehicles fitted with VANOS, so if yours is the older engine, then the part number will be different) BMW valve cover rubber washer seals - part number: 11 12 1 437 395 (you'll need 15 of these) I also bought a genuine engine oil cap (says BMW recommends Castrol on it) - part number: 11 12 7 509 328 And a BMW cap for the radiator as well - part number: 17 11 7 639 022 A common issue with E34 bonnets is that they don't "shoot out" properly, when you pull the bonnet release handle. The usual cause of this are tired bonnet shocks, so I bought a pair from BMW, which cured this problem. BMW bonnet struts (not sided and you'll need 2) - part number: 51 23 1 944 119 They do come with the mounting clips for both ends, so there's no need to buy them separately, although I didn't know that and bought them as well. The shocks are about £30 each, so I guess not too bad, considering you change them once in 20 years. And the finishing touch was the BMW boot lid badge that I bought along with the grommets, as mine was fading away and I wanted to replace it. As far as I know, it applies to the bonnet as well. BMW boot lid badge - part number: 51 14 8 132 375 There are two types of grommets you can order and I'm not sure what's difference, however I had black rubber type fitted on mine: Black badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 807 495 White badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 852 899 And here's a pic of the BMW bits: And that's it. You can see it's quite a lot of parts that I bought and to be honest you don't necessarily HAVE to go this crazy when servicing your E34, but as I mentioned in the beginning of this thread - I like when everything is 100% perfect with my cars, so I prefer to do it once and do it right. This post is getting a bit too long, so I'll finish the story here and I'll update the thread a bit later with a few pictures of how we actually replaced all of the above and then my plans for the next service work on my E34. I want to make this car drive, handle and feel exactly the same as it left the factory, so let's see if I can manage to do it. Thanks for following and any tips/advice much appreciated.
  3. I recently upgraded to Throwing stars, so my original 15x7 (ET20, 72.5mm centre bore) BBS alloys are for sale, including the spare wheel. Part number for all the wheels is: 36111179774 The tyres are all 225/60/15 - the fronts are about 5-6mm (Marshal Matrac) in excellent condition and the rears are around 3-4mm (Continental ContiPremiumContact 2), which are still ok to use. The spare has an old Pirelli P600, but in good condition (5-6mm) and holds air. I have 4 centre caps and the wheels are 100% straight, balanced and tested - ready to bolt on. Would be looking around £250 ONO and collection from west London. If interested, please PM me. Thanks
  4. E34 525i Exhaust Options

    Seems like the mesh inside my catalytic converter has fallen into pieces and now it makes a funny noise at certain revs, when I move off or accelerate in lower gears. I was thinking of replacing the cat with a new Klarius unit and then getting a cat-back stainless steel exhaust system from Jetex? Does this sound like a good combo or Jetex may be a bit too boy-racer? It's decently priced at £450 for a complete kit, excluding the cat obviously. There doesn't seem to be many options when it comes to E34 exhausts, unless you want to pay over £1200 for a Superprint system or £550 just for a Eisenmann backbox? As far as I know, Klarius is a quite good brand, so it should be a good choice for a catalytic converter and it should last at least 4-5 years? So I just need your help re choosing the best cat and then knowing my options for the exhaust system? Thanks
  5. 25 years of greatness

    Hi people My 5er is 25 years today (blue) Still driving as smooth as a decade ago 08/02/93
  6. New e34 525iX owner

    Hi there. I've posted a few times already and appreciate what a great resource this forum is. I come from the Volvo enthusiast world (specifically 850/70 series cars) but am excited to learn more about the e34s. I recently found an e34 525iX touring with an 09/94 production date. It has fairly low miles for its age and is in great shape cosmetically. The car was off the road for some years and needed a few items replaced to be in good form but everything is in order now and at a good "stage 0" in terms of maintenance. As it needed new front shocks, I took the opportunity to install the "sport" suspension and corresponding springs. I think the stance is actually well-matched to the normal height iX SLS rear suspension. Unfortunately on my drive home, the car began to have a starting problem as the DME was failing. That was an adventure!
  7. Probably asked before but

    Does a piston from the S50 engine fit the M50?
  8. 525iX won't start

    So I finally picked up my 1995 525iX touring about 3 weeks ago. The car is cosmetically in absolutely gorgeous shape with only 170K kms but had been off the road for the past 7 years as it was someone's project car in Germany. The dealer that was selling it had done some work (replacing fluids, spark plugs and exterior trim pieces, spraying on rust-proofing oil etc to keep it looking nice underneath). I had it inspected by Dekra in The Netherlands and they spent half a day with the car, driving it etc. and gave me their 9 page report. It needed new fuel lines, new rear brake pads and ideally the front shocks replaced because a little rust had formed on the pistons - from cracks in the strut boots), and a new AC compressor. The dealer and I came to a fair agreement where they did all the labor and I supplied the parts. I took the opportunity to upgrade the front suspension to the "sport" struts and springs and all new hardware. The fuel lines were replaced, new fuel filter and some brackets etc., new rear pads and rotors and parking brake hardware, new AC compressor and drier. After the work was done I went to pick up the car and began driving it back across Germany. What should have been a 5 or 6 hour trip turned into a 14 hour nightmare as the first time I stopped for a coffee the car wouldn't start! It cranked strongly but wouldn't get going. After a couple hours of trying on and off, it did until I had to stop for gas. I could hear the fuel pump priming and the battery seemed strong plus it had just driven over 200 kilometers so should have been charged up. When I finally got to my city, I got a warning message on the dash of a "brake light electric failure - see owner's manual" (in German) and apparently didn't have brake lights anymore. This would come and go over the next two days until I got stuck at a gas station, absolutely couldn't start the car and had to have the car towed to a repair shop. We tried starter fluid before towing it and that did not work. The car spent over 2 weeks at an A.T.U. repair shop. They initially diagnosed it as a fuel pressure regulator noting that they were getting much too high fuel pressure and replaced that with a BMW part. The car still didn't start. I then supplied them with a new BMW fuel pump relay and Motronic relay and a new Hella branded CPS which was what I thought the problem was. No luck. The repair shop said they were finally able to "access the computer" and that the problem is the car's immobilizer and only BMW can fix this. As an additional detail, I noticed that when the car first wouldn't start, when I tried unlocking the car, the alarm would go off. During the couple days I had the car where it would sometimes start, I replaced the batteries in the remotes but was unable to pair them to the car. The procedure did not work. Of course I could still unlock the car manually with the key. On Wednesday I had to have the car towed from this repair shop to the nearest BMW dealer. The dealer was given all the information as to what was done so far and spent yesterday trying to diagnose the problem. They claim to have their most experienced tech working on my car and so far he is stumped! Any ideas for this mystery? Sorry for posting another "e34 no start" thread, but I thought this might be interesting. After 3 weeks I can't even register my car because it can't go through the inspection like this to get normal license plates. UPDATE: BMW claims that the readings from the new Hella CPS are bad. They are going to replace it with a BMW sensor and see if it works. If not, they think it's the main computer...which I imagine is rather expensive. I come from the Volvo enthusiast side and that's really not normally a problem. Is that common with e34s?
  9. Hello!

    Hello! New to this forum and have started a project out of a 92 e34. Also have a 95 I'm using for parts and eventually swapping in the vanos m50 into it with a turbo Probably will be asking alot of questions, hope you all don't mind!
  10. Prospective buyer

    Hi everyone, I'm not yet and owner, but I am considering an E34 525i as a project car. A friend at work is selling a rolling shell (no engine or gearbox) for £200. I've seen photos of the car, it's red, with pretty poor paint condition (rear quarter and spoiler are heavily faded), however I'm told the rest is in good condition, and drove well before the engine was pulled out due to excessive smoke. It has a cream cloth interior by the looks of it. Anything I should look out for when I see the car? I just wanted a bit of advice as to whether this would be a good project car? I have a small garage and minimal tools atm, but I plan on spending a couple of years fiddling and gathering tools I need. With the ultimate goal of sticking something like a manual coupled with a straight six out of an E46 328i, or an M62, and possibly going supercharged. Am I likely to bite off more than I can chew here, or is this something that is doable over a few years with a meagre budget? Cheers!
  11. New to a classic BMW

    Hello everyone! Although I'm not a new forum member, I will soon be a new owner of an E34 M5 3.8, Fjord Grey saloon (picking up next Saturday). I've already introduced myself on the E34 specific section. Pictures as soon as I'm able to after collection.
  12. E34 door sills

    Hi all! - this is my first post so hope all is correct, I have been searching for some e34 door sills/kick plates and cannot seem to find any! Does anyone know where I could find some. I would like either oem or ac schnitzer, just nothing with the m5 written on, or anything too tacky looking. Thank you.
  13. I have recently upgraded my front/rear suspension to a full Bilstein B12 kit, so everything that was originally on the car is now for sale. I also made a mistake of buying wrong top mounts, which are suitable only for normal suspension, NOT sport, so they are also for sale, along with new front spring cups and spring pads, various new washers/nuts and brand-new front Sachs dust covers and bump stops. The full list of items for sale is as below with their part numbers: x2 Used front shock absorbers made by Boge: 834903003128 x2 Used front springs - not sure what make they are, most likely genuine BMW x2 New front top mounts made by Bilstein, including new nuts - 12-248605 (OEM part number: 31331139452) - these are suitable for the above shocks x1 New Sachs front dust cover kit, includes front shock absorber dust covers and bump stops - 900 004 x2 New BMW front shock absorber top nuts - 31321139422 x2 New BMW front washers for the top nuts - 07119905829 x2 New BMW front washers that go under the top mounts - 31331110196 x2 New BMW front washers that sit between the top mounts and the spring cups - 31336776760 x2 New BMW front spring cups - 31331128524 x2 New BMW front upper spring pads - 31331128523 x2 Used BMW front lower spring pads x2 New BMW front spacers, these are the first thing to go on the shocks - 31321129977 x2 Genuine used BMW rear shock absorbers (made by BOGE), complete with springs, top mounts and all the hardware - 33521135860 I don't have new top mounts for the rear shocks, as the ones that I bought matched my car, so we got them fitted with the new suspension. However, I would advise buying new top mounts for the rear before you fit the shocks. Also the bump stops on the rear have split, so ideally you'll also need new bump stops for the rear. Overall, the shocks and springs were in good condition before we removed them, but obviously keep in mind that they are probably 20+ years old, so don't expect Ferrari-like handling. However, if you need something soft and comfortable to waft you along, then these will do the job fine. They were removed from my 1992 E34 525i, so please make sure they fit your car before you commit to buy. The BMW bits along with the top mounts cost me £100+, so if I get £150 for the whole lot, then I'll be happy with that. Due to size and weight, this will have to be a collection-only from west London, but if you pay the asking price, then I could probably deliver them to you, assuming you are not too far away from London. PM me, if interested. Thanks for looking.
  14. Gaining access to car

    Just discovered that I cannot unlock my car after disconnecting the battery, is there a way around this or do I have to somehow get power to it? Thankyou in advance Alex
  15. Hubs and Axles

    Ok I have been onto my bmw dealer to ask this question but they don't really know, are the stub axles and hubs interchangeable from a 1990 model to a 1994, the only part number I have found to be different is the hub.Any information on this will be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Alex
  16. Hi, looking for a replacement front door as title. thanks mike
  17. What transmissions fit

    Just a quick question, my 94 525 has a 5hp18 5 speed auto in it which is slowly dieing, are the gearboxes model specific or will one from another model? All information appreciated. Thanks in advance Alex
  18. Start up

    Never had this problem before I had trouble starting the engine after I had moved it about 20 feet then turned the engine off, went to start it again and it was if the engine had flooded, is this a common problem? after I got it running and drove it for about 6kms turned it off and when I started it again it was like the problem was never there.Any ideas? Thanks in advance Alex
  19. Hi, looking for a replacement front door as title. thanks mike
  20. Suspension

    Reading through one of the links for spare parts I noticed that one of the strut mounts said only for cars without sports suspension, my question is, is there a difference in the strut mounts as I'm looking to swap out the suspension between my 2 E34's, 1 has sport suspension factory fitted and the other does not (my '94). Next, does anyone know if the difference between the 2 suspension systems subtle or or in your face noticeable? All information on this will be much appreciated, thanks in advance Alex
  21. Transmission question

    Any ideas on what a shuddering type of feeling in the car on take off could be telling me? The car is a '94 525i with a 5 speed auto. For most part it is only first gear and if I use the winter mode it takes off in 2nd nice and smooth, it also only happens in E mode. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Alex
  22. I have been doing alot of reading on doing an engine swap from the M20(1990 525i) to M60 engine (1994 era), my question is what is the extra wireing needed under the dash for and is it possible to make it work without it. I do realise that there will be harness changes under the bonnet and computer changes for the engine and trans ( staying auto but upgrading to 5 speed), but what I haven't been able to find out is what the extra under dash wireing is for. All help is appreciated. Thanks in advance Alex
  23. E34 Driver's Side Wiper Arm

    I've got a pre-facelift E34, so it has that stupid reverse-hook wiper arm on the driver's side, which stops me from fitting regular wipers or even aero wipers, because I can only only get basic Bosch wiper blades, which are a direct fit, specifically for an E34. Now as far as I know, the facelifted E34s had this problem fixed and both wiper arms have conventional hooks, so you can fit normal wiper blades, as long as they are the right size, and even easily upgrade to aero blades, if you wanted to. So what I'm after is a facelifted E34 driver's side wiper arm, assuming it's in good condition, straight and not rusty. Please PM me a few photos and your price posted. Thanks
  24. Swapping over parts

    Just wondering, what parts are interchangeable ( excluding engine and gearbox ) between a 1990 model and a 1994?
  25. Radio code

    Does anybody know if it is possible to change the security code on the original BMW radio in an E34? Thanks in advance for any help. Alex