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Found 125 results

  1. Hello and welcome to my E34 progress blog . It all started one day passing a used car sales centre,something catched my eye so on the 18/9/07 she was mine Well Its a orient blue e34 525se 1995(N) and 117k on the clock . production date 13/7/1995 registration date 8/8/95 from Bates BMW Essex Hungerford BMW oil service @ 9,641 - 27/11/95 Heathrow BMW inspection 2 @ 32,968- 25/9/96 Bates BMW inspection 1 @ 57,436- 12/12/97 Bates BMW oil service @ 67,395 - 24/9/98 and five sets of headlights till 24/9.98 Ordered options : - Leather seats - Sports steering wheel - 5 speed automatic - V Spoke style 54-7jx14-205/55 ( Brought car with metrics :S =/ ) - Shadow line - Floor mates - Air Con - LSD - Additional fuel for export of vehicles First vehicle Inspection under my ownership Well, i went for the full monty had a Inspection 2. This was the list of " Needing attention " - Front brake discs below minimum - Brake fluided due for change - Handbrake shoes cracked - Drive belt cracked - Air conditioning non cooling - Ns ball joint - Os drop link - Rear axle bushes gone - Pit man links - Rust on brake pipes and fuel pipes - Four metric tyres - Drivers side fog lamp Pics to follow... Progress blog index - 2010/2011 - Page One - Rear Blind Crash & New Wheels 2011/2012 - Page Two - Suspension Overhaul With Lows White Lights 540 Bumper Boot Spoiler 2012/2012 - Page Three - Sports Bumpers Brake Line Overhaul Photos & New Bumper Trims 2012/2012 - Page Four - Yellow Fog Lights Front Strut Brace & New Water Bottle 2012/2012 - Page Five - Back To Orange Lights New Engine Trim & Throwing Stars 2012/2012 - Page Six - Chit Chat & Drives Side Rust Repair & Painted 2012/2013 - Page Seven - Chit Chat Sports Bumpers Painted New RD Badges & Getting Ready For A Full Spray 2013/2013 - Page Eight - Chit Chat New Drivers Wing Repairing Of Doors And New Bottoms Door Trims 2013/2013 - Page Eight - Ordered Ultra Racing Lower Strut Brace And M5 Electric Half Leather Seats 2013/2014 Page Nine - M5 Seats Fitted Rear Seat Box Lid Repaired Stripping For Paint And Quarter Blinds 2014/2015 Page Ten - Bodyshop Photos Rear Parking Sensors New Staggered Wheels 2015/2015 Page Eleven - Reassembling Painted And Fitted Wheels 2015/2015 Page Twelve - New Mirrors Interior Change Five Years Of The Progress Blog
  2. Hey everyone, Decided to start a project thread for my E34 525i, as I've learned a lot from this and other forums before I actually bought the car and while working on it, so I thought sharing my ownership experience will help others to know what to expect from this car and make it easier to get the right parts, know what's involved in the jobs, etc. Having previously owned an E30 325i for over 3 years, one thing I learned about old BMWs is that if you get one with more or less rust-free bodywork, then all the rest of the car, i.e. engine/brakes/suspension can be pretty easily sorted, assuming you haven't bought a completely thrashed example. The reason why I sold my E30 was simply rust - it was everywhere you could imagine - sills, jacking points, front/rear arches, rear panel, front panel and even the roof (it was a sunroof model). To make it 100% right, it would have to be a complete restoration... As much as I love old BMWs, I didn't really want to go through the same things over again with an E34, so I spent literally 1 year looking for one...It had to be a manual, it had to be a 525i and most importantly it had to be in a reasonable condition bodywork-wise. Based on what I've seen and read, E34s rust very similar to other BMWs from the same era, so watch out for rusty jacking points and generally sills, especially on models that had side skirts fitted, then front and rear arches can be bad too (although the front wings can be replaced easily), then the boot lid is quite common to rust on E34s (around the number plate lights and around the edge that meets the rear panel), the bottoms of the doors, where you've got mouldings fitted, around the fuel flap area, and if you are looking at a sunroof model, then you have to be even more careful as the cassettes can be a bit rusty, although roof rust on E34s doesn't seem as common as on E30s. Clearly, the list of possible rust spots is quite extensive, so as I mentioned earlier, when you are looking for an E34, you are looking at bodywork first and all the rest of it second. Engine-wise, it had to be at least a 6 cylinder model for me, because anything less in my opinion, is a bit too slow...525i is a great choice for everything, including performance, economy and maintenance. I've seen a few 540i for sale, but I wanted a manual, so knowing how rare they are in the UK, the prices were unrealistic for me and to be honest, the ones I've seen weren't in the best conditions either. Long story short, just when I was about to give up my search for a decent E34, as I also kept an eye for a more modern E90 330i (no rust, less hassle overall), one unbelievably clean 525i came up for sale and I knew I had to go for it, because otherwise I was simply going to buy an E90, since I was seriously tired of searching. It's a 1993 saloon, pre-facelift model in diamantschwarz metallic with a M50B25TU engine and a manual gearbox. Yes, it does have a sunroof, but after removing the door seals to check the roof, it looks all clean there, although the sunroof cassette does have a few chips on it, they don't bother me at all. The rear jacking points are clean, the fronts are slightly rusty, the rear arches are bubbling a bit on the lower edges, the boot lid is ok, some rust on the bottom of the driver's door and underneath it's pretty clean as well. Grey cloth interior, no A/C (thank god), a sagging headliner and worn wiper linkage - overall, it's still a museum example compared to the E30 that I had... The car did come with a lot of original paperwork, previous MOTs and service history, but I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance and doing things myself, because I like when my cars are 100% mechanically perfect. After scouring the BMW forums all over the Internet, I started making up the list of required parts... Starting with the basic things first, I bought Shell Helix HX7 10W40 engine oil with Mann oil filter, Mann air filter and Valvoline engine flush. Also bought a Gold Plug magnetic sump plug - not sure if they are worth it, but otherwise I would advise getting a new genuine BMW plug and washer. Then moving onto other things as below: Bosch fuel filter - part number: 0 450 905 030 Bosch spark plugs (x6) - part number: 0 242 235 668 (25k miles replacement interval) Bosch Super Plus wiper blades - I initially bought more modern aero wipers, but when it came to fitting them, I didn't realise that E34s had a "reverse hook" wiper on the driver's side. There are various modifications you can do to fit whatever wipers you like, but I decided to stick to OEM and just bought E34-specific regular wipers from ECP with correct fitment. Dayco fan belt (6PK x 1558) - didn't go for a BMW belt, because it was about 40 quid from a dealer, while Dayco was just a tenner from ECP, and Dayco is a quality OEM parts manufacturer anyway, so no problems here. Now an important thing to know about M50 engines is that some of them came with a mechanical tensioner and some with hydraulic one. Done a lot of reading on this and the common recommendation is to replace the mechanical tensioner with a hydraulic one. Luckily INA and other parts manufacturers sell ready kits for doing this, so what I've done is bought a hydraulic tensioner kit and also the free-spinning roller for the alternator. INA hydraulic tensioner kit - part number: 533 0097 10 INA roller - part number: 532 0418 10 Keep in mind, if you have A/C fitted, then you'll also need to buy the A/C belt as well as the tensioner kit for the A/C. Moving onto the cooling side of things - my radiator was swollen on the top for some reason, so I definitely needed a replacement radiator. BMW advised the radiator and the bottle were sold separately and they quoted around £300 for everything, while I was looking at 100 quid tops for a complete rad/bottle online from various reputable makes. Make sure you check properly which radiator you have, because A/C and non A/C models have different size rads (520mm) and automatic cars have different rads as well. After measuring mine, I started looking for the most basic 440mm radiator for manual cars - BMW part number: 17 11 1 712 982 There's a quite large choice of various makes for radiators, but I wanted to stay on the OEM side as much possible, however since the BMW rad was way too pricy, I decided that BEHR/Hella would be a great alternative, since they are a well-known OEM parts manufacturer. I ordered my radiator from http://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/ and it came from Germany, as it was not available anywhere in the UK. Here's the part number for my BEHR/Hella 440mm radiator: 8MK 376 717-461 It was a 100% perfect fit, the only issue we had with it, is that it didn't come with a hole for a coolant level sensor, however you can easily modify it, making a hole where the sensor goes, because otherwise it all fits excellent. I paid just under £100 for it, including delivery, so very happy with it. Then I also bought the fan clutch made by Borg Warner/BEHR/BERU. BEHR fan clutch - part number: 8MV 376 732-231 Sachs fan clutch - part number: 2100 012 131 All are OEM makes, so go for whatever you can find. ECP shows BERU on their website, but the box came labelled Borg Warner, so I'm fine with that. The water pump was about £130 genuine from BMW, which I thought was a bit too much, since I managed to get a HEPU one from ECP for less than £50 and again, HEPU are a decent German brand. HEPU water pump (comes with a gasket) - part number: P472 For the thermostat, first I went with Circoli, but after reading some horror stories about them online, I decided to go genuine BMW and paid £50 for a thermostat and a gasket from BMW. You can either buy a 88 degrees thermostat or 92 one from BMW and all they advise is to check what you already have fitted before you order, which seems a bit silly to me, because these cars are over 20 years old and you don't know whether the stat fitted in the past was the correct spec or not? To be honest, I doubt there will be any catastrophic difference if you go for either of them. Anyway, I decided to go for the 92 degrees thermostat, so the BMW part number you'll need is: 11 53 7 511 083. The gasket comes separate (part no: 11 53 1 265 084) and also make sure to get the thermostat housing gasket - part number: 11 53 1 740 437. I wasn't too fussed about getting specific anti-freeze, so I just went with basic blue 2-year Triple QX anti-freeze that ECP sells and got 5 litres ready mixed for about 8 quid. Also bought some Wynn's white grease to lubricate the door, bonnet and boot lid hinges + locks. To break up the big pile of text above, here's a picture for you to show what it all looked like: And here's the difference between a genuine BMW thermostat and a Circoli one. What I didn't know is that the one made by BMW is actually a Wahler thermostat and you could get the exact same thermostat from eBay for about £30, but obviously it won't have no BMW logo or part number on it, although it will be the same part. Goes to show how dealers make their money on parts. I also bought a few parts from BMW directly, because I thought the price was sensible and also some things are better when they are genuine BMW. It looked like that my valve cover gasket was leaking a bit of oil, so we decided it would be a good idea to replace it, so here's what I got. BMW valve cover gasket kit - part number: 11 12 0 034 107 (keep in mind this is for vehicles fitted with VANOS, so if yours is the older engine, then the part number will be different) BMW valve cover rubber washer seals - part number: 11 12 1 437 395 (you'll need 15 of these) I also bought a genuine engine oil cap (says BMW recommends Castrol on it) - part number: 11 12 7 509 328 And a BMW cap for the radiator as well - part number: 17 11 7 639 022 A common issue with E34 bonnets is that they don't "shoot out" properly, when you pull the bonnet release handle. The usual cause of this are tired bonnet shocks, so I bought a pair from BMW, which cured this problem. BMW bonnet struts (not sided and you'll need 2) - part number: 51 23 1 944 119 They do come with the mounting clips for both ends, so there's no need to buy them separately, although I didn't know that and bought them as well. The shocks are about £30 each, so I guess not too bad, considering you change them once in 20 years. And the finishing touch was the BMW boot lid badge that I bought along with the grommets, as mine was fading away and I wanted to replace it. As far as I know, it applies to the bonnet as well. BMW boot lid badge - part number: 51 14 8 132 375 There are two types of grommets you can order and I'm not sure what's difference, however I had black rubber type fitted on mine: Black badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 807 495 White badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 852 899 And here's a pic of the BMW bits: And that's it. You can see it's quite a lot of parts that I bought and to be honest you don't necessarily HAVE to go this crazy when servicing your E34, but as I mentioned in the beginning of this thread - I like when everything is 100% perfect with my cars, so I prefer to do it once and do it right. This post is getting a bit too long, so I'll finish the story here and I'll update the thread a bit later with a few pictures of how we actually replaced all of the above and then my plans for the next service work on my E34. I want to make this car drive, handle and feel exactly the same as it left the factory, so let's see if I can manage to do it. Thanks for following and any tips/advice much appreciated.
  3. After a while being away from 5 series I bought back my old 530i. It now needs a master cylinder and I'm wondering if anyone knows for one or an alternative that will fiit. It's an early 1993 E34 530i v8 with an ATE cylinder. The pipe fittings are all the same size, 10mm, not 12 and 10mm like later versions. Do you know if the Girling version is a straight swap, or if a cylinder from a different model in the range will fit, or perhaps from a different series car, like an E28 or whatever?
  4. Following on from my introduction pot a week or so ago, finally got out to take a few pics today to show the good and not-so-good bits of Christine. First of all a couple of overall shots out in the sunshine: The problem bits are: O/S/F wing parking dent. The lights need to come out to sort it, but they need to some out for cleaning anyway so - weather permitting - that may be on the cards for next weekend: N/S/F door mirror and surrounding area, multiple chips. Not sure how they got there but they need to go! N/S/R wheel arch. This may well be more serious than it looks - I'm under no illusions about that, but the area is generally solid so should be able to catch it without really major surgery: O/S/F and R door corners. The front isn't bad yet - have had the door card off to do the window in the past week and it's not going to be a hole + the rest of the lower edge is good. have a couple of tins of Dinitrol on hand for the inside / seam once the cosmetic's done. The white dots are reflections of bird *** on the road btw N/S/R bumper corner from before we got her: There's also a scuff on the N/S/F bumper corner (vsible in the second pic) but that should be little more than a polish out. The O/S/R corner is unblemished
  5. Hi All, Looking to see if anyone has the following parts or knows of anyone that has; - Front and Rear E34 Sport Bumpers - Full Light Silver Grey Leather, Preferably Sport Seats, Door Cards, Dash Let me know if anyone has or knows of any. Thanks MM85
  6. Hello all I have been adjusting my steering box in order to try and address the common issues of steering play and 'vague' high speed steering but in so doing seem to have created another problem. The new problem is that when the engine is switched off I can now barely move the wheels at all. (Steering lock definitely NOT on!) Now I know that steering will be heavy without the power assistance - I have a 1967 Land Rover so I'm no stranger to unassisted - but this is something else! Feels like I'm going to break something if I persist. I'm sure it was 'normal' before I started any of this and also after my first couple of adjustments. However, having had another go at 'fine tuning' the steering on Sunday I set off on a 100+ mile trip and decided about half way that it wasn't any better so stopped to back it off a little. Continued on my way and everything was fine but when I arrived and switched off the engine I noticed that I could barely move the steering wheel. Any ideas whats happened? As I've said the car drives OK (still don't think I've quite nailed the adjustment) but I'm worried that should the power steering fail I've got an uncontrollable car on my hands.
  7. For sale is an automatic gearbox ECU removed from my 1990 e32 735i. Fully working order, removed at 82.000 miles, when I converted my 7 series to a manual. I'm not sure what other cars it would fit, but should be compatible with M30 engined cars and possibly others as well, but I'm not able to find any info on this. Price is £25 including P&P or collection in person from New Milton Hampshire at a discounted price. Please also check my other items for sale, as I'm having a garage clear out.
  8. For sale is a brand new and genuine BMW oil supply line / tube. Part number 11 42 1 747 782 old part number 11 42 1 747 171. Ordered as a mistake and never fitted to the car, it's been sitting in my garage ever since. Will fit M60 V8 engined 5 series e34 and 7 series e32 cars - 530i 540i 730i/L 740i/L Price is £30 including P&P or collection in person from New Milton Hampshire at a discounted price. Please check my other items as well, as I'm having a garage clear out.
  9. For sale is a used rubber boot that sits between air flow meter and intake manifold. Genuine BMW part number 13 54 1 722 847 - old part number 13541708878. Will fit M30 engined e34 5 series, e32 7 series and e24 6 series. It's in good used condition with just a small crack where the Idle Control Valve sits. Removed from my own 1990 e32 735i. Price is £15 including P&P or collection in person from New Milton Hampshire at a discounted price. Please check my other items for sale as I'm having a garage clear out.
  10. Hi all recently bought an e34 m5. It's a nice car fbmwsh and every mot from new. Recent restoration although still needs a few bits doing. I would like to get it serviced and have a good checking through. Am I best to use BMW main dealer (bowker) or a BMW specialist or other? I'm in Preston so ideally something around here / in Lancashire. many thanks wayne
  11. Hello All Thought I show say hello as I've recently become the owner of a 1995 E34 525tds Touring. It's an Auto with what I think they say is 'SE spec', paint is burgundy/red metallic and interior blue cloth. It came with a lot of history that suggests it was well looked after up until around 2015 when it was on 140k miles but since then I think it's suffered a bit from a lack of attention and insufficient use. I bought it in January at just over 146k and in the last few weeks have done the following: 1. Replaced glow plugs - not long after buying it the weather turned really cold and it just would not start. Prime suspect was the glow plugs and sure enough 5 of the 6 were gone. Replaced the lot and now starting first time, all of the time. 2. Replaced rear shocks - it looked a bit low at the back and wasn't at all happy over speed bumps. Inspection revealed a deformed collar on the OSR shock so I set about replacing both sides. Removing all that interior to get at the top mounts was a pain but nothing in comparison to trying to remove the shock from the bottom mounting! First one I tackled simply wouldn't budge and I eventually had to admit defeat and get a friendly mechanic to change them for me. 3. Full service - finally a job I could do myself in its entirety! New oil, air and fuel filters and of course an oil change. Also replaced the cabin air filter thanks to an excellent post on this forum showing how. 4. Replaced OS headlight - initially thought I'd get a second hand cluster but prices seemed to start at around £40 which seemed a lot when all I had was a cracked lense so then thought about just replacing the glass which you can get for around £14 all be it from Latvia! In the end though I found the exact headlight unit on GSF and on a "50% off weekend" that came in at £13. Result! Next up is an overhaul of the brakes, they're OK and I thought I might get away with this for a while longer but warning light has just come on the dash so going to need to do it before the MOT in May. Have done abut 1500 miles since I bought it and am pretty happy. Still very much learning about it though so I'll end my "hello" with a couple of questions: 1. Temperature gauge - I'd describe the behavior of this gauge is "curious". It fluctuates quite a lot. On the plus side it never gets above half way and only gets to that level when in traffic or when having accelerated up a long incline etc. Rest of the time is usually around a quarter but occasionally dips, even in the middle of a long journey when engine must be at normal operating temperature. Is this normal or a recognized issue that I need to address? 2. Handling - basically at high speed it doesn't feel quite as "planted" on the road as I'd like. I can't put my finger on anything particular, it doesn't seem to wander or pull but I'd say something isn't 100%. History shows PO replaced the front shocks and anti-roll bar drop links and an inspection with my untrained eye hasn't found anything untoward but if anyone has any thoughts I'd be interested. Thanks for reading!
  12. Hi All, As some of you are already aware I recently took delivery of a 535i Sport Auto in Diamond Schwartz with some nice options Unfortunately at some point in the past the electric leather was swapped out for manual but no matter, Steven still has the Liquidken grey Memory leather which will be recoloured and reconditioned to suit. So some pictures of the last decade of grime and vegetation. Which was tackled in the usual manner... Leaving this... Placed a battery on and the engine cranks over just fine, decanted the interior and boot, had a cursory scrub/hoover and took stock of what’s missing and in need of attention. So the jobs list I can see so far: Purchase: Source B35 Air flow meter Source steering column surround Source 95aH Battery Source front sill section repair panel drivers side and jacking reinforcement Source Manual conversion kit – Tims to the rescue! Order Front bumper tow eye cover – Ordered Replace front Screen Replace headlining Replace Door body seals Replace dash – Slightly warped... Servicing: Inspect Engine valve clearances Inspect Engine compression values Inspect oil spray bar and clean Change oil, flush and replace Add coolant to system and bleed Free off sunroof track cables and lubricate – remove headlining and heat gun the tubes??? Inspect Aircon system- this was converted to R134a in the past but no doubt at least some of the seals are now shot after a decade of inactivity... Function test Fuel pump and supply, replace or flush through fuel system All input welcome
  13. Wanted, brake master cylinder for early 1993 E34 530i v8. It's the ATE version and the pipe fittings are all the same size, 10mm, not 12 and 10mm like later versions.
  14. Pixel defects ok. Must be from e34 518i. Auto or manual.
  15. Hi everyone, New to the forum, new to E34's, but not to BMWs...Had an E30 325i for about 3 years and the main reason why I sold it, was because I lost the battle with the rust. The only proper way to do it would be to fully strip the car and rectify the rust all over the place, as it was pretty much everywhere you can imagine, i.e. sills, arches, front, rear and even the roof. Have recently bought a 1993 E34 525i and did a lot of research before buying, so I knew that they rust very similarly to E30s. This example looks very clean to me, there's some work required on the jacking points, but overall they are in very good nic considering the age of the car. My main concern is the roof, because the headliner is sagging a bit on the rear and this is a sunroof model, so I don't want to take the headliner off and find a rotten roof. On my E30 (also sunroof model) it was quite obvious that roof was rusty, because you could simply press with your fingers around the B/C pillars and you could hear the rust crunching - that's how bad it was. On this E34, I've pressed all around the pillars and around the sunroof and all seems solid to me, nothing obvious to indicate that there's any rust there, but then I don't know how common is roof rust on E34s with sunroofs? This is a question of whether I'll be keeping the car or not, because repairing sills and arches is one thing, but tackling the roof is a whole another story... Another thing I noticed, when peeling away the cloth material from the headliner around the driver's roof handle, I can see it's all brown in there, but to me it looks like the material from the headliner cardboard, rather than rust...Again, not too sure, so possibly I'll take a few pictures to show you what I mean... Overall, I love the car and having previously owned an E30, I know what to expect from old BMWs lol...BMW stands for "bring my wallet" and all that... There are little things here and there that need sorting, but I just want to make sure I haven't bought a rust bucket before I get too carried away with buying parts, repairing things, etc... Thanks for your help. Stephan
  16. Hello fellow forum members, here I would like to present my BMW 525i AUTO as when I bought it in December 2014. Not a massive fan of the grey interior. And here is the dream. To drive it around Europe. A considerable amount of time has elapsed already, and much more will pass; its a journey. It is also journey in gaining knowledge and experience of mechanics, because at the time of purchasing this car I didn’t have a clue. I was to learn so much within the first few months of working on this car. 2015 jobs completed: Headlight replacement Water pump and belt Driver side door lock actuator and door handle Thermostat and housing Shocks and springs (lowered) 2016 jobs completed: Exhaust brackets and hangers New alloys (temporary) To be done: Head gasket Reverse lights Dent removal Respray Refurb leather and probably many more I originally bought my merky, grey beast as a donor car for a 518i that I wanted to restore and modify. This is the 518i. As you can see, the 525i was a far better car! The 525i was purchased December 2014. On the way home it overheated. The radiator had been recently replaced and we found the overheating problem was caused by an improperly bled coolant system from whoever fitted the new radiator. The car drove badly, the shocks were knackered, headlight was smashed and we were loosing water. Job no.1 - find that leak. Jan 2015 - Firstly we found the water pump was leaking severely so we replaced that. The spindle was wobbling about all over the place and water was pouring out of it. Fun job! During this time I also replaced the smashed headlight with the good one from the 518. Yes, the 518 wasn’t a complete waste. In fact, one of it’s wing mirror plastic covers was resprayed and replaced a very butchered one on the 525i, and various bits of trim and clips were salvaged. I also ripped all the door cards off to oil the window mechanisms and to replace the driver side door lock actuator and handle. Replacing the water pump didn’t seem to fix the entire leak. It was better but wasn’t completely eradicated. With the help of one of my more mechanically minded work colleagues, I discovered the thermostat housing was leaking. There was dry coolant residue around the fixing points, so the housing and the thermostat it itself was replaced. There was still a coolant leak! Much smaller as you could imagine but still enough to be a concern. I kept the car on the road to monitor the leak, to do this I thought it would be a good idea to make it more safer to drive so my next job was to replace the shocks and springs. The 518i was sold on to a car breaker around this time. I got my money back on it via the spares I removed. I also looked at my reversing lights as they weren’t working. The cabling loom that runs into the boot lid had wires with cracked insulation and some had snapped. I cut the bad cabling out and soldered in some fresh cable but it still didn’t fix the problem. The fuse and bulbs were fine which mean’t it had to be the switch on the gearbox, unfortunately located on the top as they are with the autos. Bummer. July 2015 - For the 525i suspension, I purchased Bilstein shocks and Vogtland lowering springs. 40mm lower at the front, and 20mm at the back. This was a massive job for me, having little experience at this point with cars this was fantastic. I thoroughly enjoyed spending many hours ripping the interior and the under carriage of this car apart, drinking beer in the sunshine upon the sloped brick patio at the entrance to the garage, listening to ACDC. Life was good. Anyway, with the Bimmer lowered she looked the part. Those wheels started to grow on me. It was a fix/modification that subtly changed the aesthetics, but massively changed the handling. Phooaar she drove nice. That leak was still there though. Looking for this leak, I found no signs at all and from reading some forums online it had to be the headgasket. I enjoyed the car for the summer as the leak got worse and worse and in the end I parked it up for the winter. March/April 2016 - A few of weeks ago I put it on the road with the intention of getting the leak looked at by a pro to confirm that it was definitely the head gasket. The exhaust fell off on the way. Dam. Two brackets had rotted out and the rubber hangers had perished. All fixed and my friend (the mechanic) found no signs of leaks other than dried coolant residue sitting between the head and the block. Hmmm. It had to be the head gasket and to confirm this, I put in some K seal. No more leaks! Which is great so I can drive it round for the summer but bad news as it is definitely the head gasket. Before I start the daunting task of a head gasket replacement, I refurbished some alloys sold to me by a colleague. They look pretty good even though they’re not the wheels I really want, but its a step in the right direction. The car needs some serious bodywork which will come in good time. So this is the point I am at. Much more work to be done. I cannot wait to get on with the head gasket. Some other photos: I shall update on my progress.
  17. Hi Guys, Been wanting to buy an E34 to have a collectable/occasional use car. Seen one on sale which is a 1990 525i SE 4 speed auto. It's done 96k backed up with history and it also has a very clean MOT history (so mainly straight passes). Has all the usual SE spec such as AC/Sunroof etc and even heated front seats, its in a glacier blue colour with matching blue interior! Anyway my question is, what sort of common issues do I look out for? I don't have too much mechanical knowledge so I want to know for things I can spot fairly easily. The advert also says its a more reliable version than the later VANOS model, so I need more info about VANOS models and why this is more reliable etc. Also, what sort of price would you pay for an E34 like this? (I'm in the UK) Any help is appreciated! Many thanks Ash
  18. Morning guys, I need a quick bit of help / advice please. My E38 750 has a 700CCA battery in it and its supposed to have 850 - 900CCA. I can buy a battery from Halfords that will fit it no problem but my question...... Can I fit the 700CCA battery in my 525 E34? the voltage is the same and she should only take the Amps needed???? Any help would be appreciated
  19. Just thought I'd start a thread that lists the groups / users that relate to the e34 (the ones below are Facebook ones as I don't do the other types of social media) bmw5 forum (of course but not a lot of e34 content) Strictly e34 - UK Strictly e34 - UK | buy & sell E34 Zone (mainly uk with quite a few members) E34 Club UK BMW e34 bmw 540i 6 speed registry BMW e34 5 series - tips & tricks (international) BMW 5 series e34 collectors & owners (international) BMW parts only sales BMW parts for sale/swap In my opinion there is lots of duplication between groups and there are a lot of posts that could be answered with a very quick Google search (or search through this forum). I still look at this forum (love the project section and the general area is like going to the pub) It is nice to have some car bits amongst my feed of family being tired, attention seekers, 'selfies', holiday pics, Brexit/ remain etc
  20. Guys, I need a little help if possible please, I stored my car on my drive out of the way over the winter under a breathable car cover, the car is pretty dry ish under the cover, but with the heavy rain over the last few months it has got damp in places under cover. Namely the end of the bonnet and boot, the inside is a little damp but mainly dry. Please I cant stress this enough, its not at all wet in there or under the bonnet. Now due to tracker and alarm being active the battery discharged, caught it just in time and charged it back up, tested it and all is OK. Then came the fun part, I replaced it (battery) in the car and the alarm went bonkers, ignored it and locked the doors etc thinking I may need to reset the alarm, but no! the alarm just kept going! Turned the alarm siren off with the key and then back on ....... still no go....... again..... nope........ again .......... nope....... ok sod it its now off! Any ideas?, I did have this before a few years ago when the car was standing in a small pool of water for a week. I think the damp has got into the alarm siren but it sorted itself out. I'm tempted to just run her and see if that dries her out as she has been sitting since the end of October. Any help appreciated.
  21. HI, The car was standing for many years without any movement , but when I went to buy it (the engine was running smooth and nice ). When I get car back home , - dead ( almost) It starts but after a 5 sec. is dying , like not enough fuel or something else. when I was trying to start it many times, I was sniffing a petrol. ( pipe just next to the fuel filter was parished ) - ok, repair done : ) next thing... car still the same , start only for max 5 sec. and dead again every time, and to start it i need push pedal to the floor. today I check the fuses and relays and according to the bentleys manual , I cant see the main relay !!! ?? is that right , there should be only two relays ? please for help
  22. Hello all, I've been reading into upgrading the brakes on my E34. I noticed that a lot of people will go the E31 Brembo 4-pots for the front, and 540i brakes in the rear. There are many threads here, and I've read through most of them. Anyway, I decided that instead of going this route, I would instead go for the lighter (well same weight as single pots for E34/E32) 4-pot Brembo's from the E38. I managed to source a nice CHEAP, fully functional set from my local breaker. I've got a drawing to have some adapters made up, as the E38 brakes are not direct bolt on. This was obviously discussed at length in this thread. I'm now at the point where I'm ready to install the calipers up front, but I need to find out which brake hoses to use. Are the E38 and E34 brake hoses the same internal diameter, will they work with the brembos, or do I need E38 brake hoses? This is one piece of information I've been unable to find whilst researching quite a lot. I know there are a few people here who have done this upgrade, maybe they can shed some light? I believe the hoses will be the same size, however, I don't have extra hose to hand to test this out. Thanks for anyone who can help!
  23. Very nice E34 520i Touring with Throwing Stars. Met in the Gulf petrol station a month or so ago whilst I was washing down the E38 and the Z3. Turned out to be quite a collection as there was you and an E31 too. Anyway looked good going southbound this morning on Holloway Road whilst I was going North
  24. as title please posted to Ip2 0LH please cruise control stalk for a 525 TDs se m reg with air bag steering wheel
  25. Hi all, 123 miles into my 150 mile journey last night the car decided it wouldn't run under load, it seemed to be not running on all cylinders. No difference up or down the rev range. Light throttle seemed to mitigate this to some extent but it remained for the rest of the journey, upon arrival it wouldn't idle smoothly between 500-800 hunting. Unplugging the maf improves the rough running at idle however the running under load is still a problem and has no power. In the past few weeks its been hesitating around 3100-3200rpm and 5100-5200rpm but not massively. I believe a coil pack died last week as the exhaust was running rich and it wasn't running on all 6 cylinders (not smooth and missing every little bit). I replaced all coil packs with 6 new ones and new spark plugs at the same time (believing a coil had died) the issue seemed to disappear. However the hesitations at the above rpm remained (albeit reduced). The current issue under load has led me to ponder: It implies to me I may have: An air intake leak? Injector/fuel rail issue (unlikely?) Coil pack/ignition sensor issue? I've tried to rule out:. Not a throttle position sensor as it will return to idle quickly. Not a fuel line issue as no obvious leaks, new fuel filter <9000 miles ago. Not Vanos as seals were replaced <1000 miles ago and was operating quietly. Can anyone suggest any other causes that may have experienced in the past (cam sensor? vanos solenoid?). It's going into a garage in the next few weeks for some warranty work so I'll get the codes read then. But if I can sort it myself that would make me happy. Thanks