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Found 21 results

  1. Hi It's sadly time to sell my 2002 540i sport touring in azure blue. The car runs and drives very well for the age and miliage and has been a joy to own. I have spent a small fortune over the two years I've owned it in maintenance a lot of major work has been carried out over the last 5000 miles including an entirely new coolant system, new cam chains and guides, new alternator and battery. New rear suspension airbags and carrier bushes, gear box service and upgraded bm54 amp. Mechanically the car should be good for a long time to come. Bodywork wise the panels are all straight, no dents or scratches, the front bumper is a genuine BMW e39 sport bumper and was replaced last year, it has fog lights fitted but no surrounds. There is however some rust around the front arches and the skirts at the rear wheels. Having this sorted was next on my list but unfortunately the I've run out of time and funds to get it sorted. Interior is in very good condition for its age and mileage. Black electric leather sport seats with driver side memory settings. Electric steering adjustment, widescreen mk4 nav with 2016 maps and speed cameras, 6 disc cd changer, parking sensors front and rear, cruise control. Automatic headlights and windscreen wipers. And dual zone aircon. The aircon Is currently not working due to a split in one of the pipes, easily repaired. There are also the standard dead pixels on the dash but they never bothered me enough to have fixed I would be looking around £3000, I'm not overly sure what the car is worth as there aren't many around so would obviously be open to any suggestions and offers. I think I've covered most of the details and have tried to be as honest as possible, any questions just ask on here or call me on 07535807721 car is located in Banbury Oxfordshire. Many thanks, Dan.
  2. Hi guys I appreciate this is a reasonably discussed topic across the various forums, but the information is a bit dispersed and some of it slightly old. I was hoping to perhaps collate the different options and people's experiences together on this subject. Essentially I'm looking at an LSD conversion project for my '97 540iT. Reasoning for which, is in part, to prepare car for a SC install. Just to add that I'm currently unable to carry out any of the work myself so I'd be relying on either my indy or diff specialist garage. There are, from my research so far, three obvious options available. I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts/experiences on having carried out any of them, or indeed any other options: 1. Swap internals of OEM open diff for those from an E36 M3 EVO LSD. 2. Swap diff for E39 M5 LSD. This requires a little more work, including modifying the driveshaft, which will need rebalancing. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1767892-E39-M5-limited-slip-differential-swap-into-an-E39-540i 3. Purchase a third party torsen type LSD suitable for the E39. For example: Quaife - UK based company, with a good reputation, from what I've anecdotally heard. Takes less than a day to have the unit swapped. https://shop.quaife.co.uk/quaife-bmw-limited-slip-differential-kit-for-5-series-e39-540i-manual Wavetrac - Based in the USA, so hassle, buying, customs, etc. OS Giken - Japanese based. As such, much more expensive. Bit overkill perhaps, unless you're die hard track enthusiast; I may do the odd hill climb in my touring, but it's not going to get a roll cage and go on the track every week. I guess option 4 is to do both, swapping the final drive for an Msport E36/E39 AND replace the diff for a third party torsen type LSD. Pros of swapping in an E36 or M5 diff: You're swapping the entire final drive unit, so beefier parts, which may well be useful putting the extra horses to the wheels, and you're getting the Msport ratios. Cons of swapping in an E36 or M5 diff: Old LSDs will have an uncertain history, and will often have been taken out of their original cars for a reason. Granted it can be reconditioned, but old ZF design LSDs with only half a dozen clutch plates aren't a great design, compared to more modern variants, and will require a reasonable amount of work to fit into existing subframe and shafts. Even newer BMW LSDs (E46 and upwards), which use the M-variable diffs, which have many more clutch plates, have known issues with weak spur gears. Pros of putting in a new third-party LSD: You know your final drive is working and probably have a history of its use and maintenance. Still able to replace output bearings if damaged (although unlikely). Torsen type LSD, uses gearing rather than clutch plates to provide power. ASC/DSC guaranteed to still work (albeit less likely to kick in as the LSD will be doing a lot of the work). Cons of putting in a new third-party LSD: Retain original crown wheel and pinion and therefore original non Msport ratios (although I imagine this isn't too noticeable - would appreciate any experience of this). I guess I think I've already made up my mind, but I would be interested to get people's thoughts on the forum. Thanks in advance.
  3. Hi there I need some help please with my car. My car is a BMW e39 540i - R reg - Auto. The issue is that when i start the car sometimes there is a cloud of smoke from the exhaust - a greyish white colour. This dosnt last long...... and then dies away. Sometimes i can get the smoke whilst driving too. The engine feels eratic..... its not smooth. I have changed the spark plugs and they were ok. I also checked the water and oil to see any signs of a blown head gasket. The oil was fine and so was the water. All the levels were acceptable. There are no error messages on the dash or using a computer etc.. Someone told me that there is something on the back of the engine that needs to be changed as this tends to go sometimes..... Can anyone give me ideas as to what else i need to be looking for to fix this issue ?? Thank you
  4. For sale is a brand new and genuine BMW oil supply line / tube. Part number 11 42 1 747 782 old part number 11 42 1 747 171. Ordered as a mistake and never fitted to the car, it's been sitting in my garage ever since. Will fit M60 V8 engined 5 series e34 and 7 series e32 cars - 530i 540i 730i/L 740i/L Price is £30 including P&P or collection in person from New Milton Hampshire at a discounted price. Please check my other items as well, as I'm having a garage clear out.
  5. Hi, I am having some issues with my bmw 540I, e39, 1997 reg. Last week the car was fine. I was driving it ok then a few days ago I parked it on my drive. Today I tried starting it. It just wouldnt start. When I turn the ignition key the starter motor turns the engine but dosnt stop the starter motor when I let go of the key. To stop the starter motor I need to turn the key back myself. Check list... The spark plugs have been cleaned and are ok. Fuses are ok Engine turns Can smell petrol etc Fuel is fresh etc and not contaminated. There is no sign of anything unusual in the engine bay. The water is fine and so is the oil. Would this issue have anything to do with a faulty ignition switch? Any help much appreciated. Thanks
  6. Whilst changing the hoses that go from the back of the engine to the aux heater I broke the bracket that supports them. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DE62-EUR-04-1998-E39-BMW-540i&diagId=11_4228. Have searched realoem with no luck. No support for these hoses + pot holes means that there is a possibility that the hose(s) would / could come loose....and the consequences Would appreciate if you can take a look at the attached pic of the bracket and let me know what the part number is...any other suggestions on how to secure these hoses are welcome. Thanks
  7. Hello all, I noticed that when I shift to P or N the RPM goes upto 2K and stays there for a few seconds - however if I gently tap the accelerator pedal it goes back to idle rpm. This issue only started today. I would appreciate your opinion on what could be causing this sort of strange behavior. Many Thanks
  8. I would like to have the Autobox on my 04/98 540i serviced (i.e oil & filter change) and perhaps a software update by an independent Automatic transmission specialist. The car has 74k miles on the clock. Are there any who do a complete oil change ( i.e including the torque converter ) ? I have looked up on Fedauto website - but would appreciate members suggestions / recommendations. Thanks
  9. Hi everyone... Just wanted to see if anyone has an alloy wheel for slae like the one in the picture ? either one or a set will be considered... Thank you
  10. Can anyone please tell me if the 740d thermostat is a direct replacement for a non-vanos M62 ? Thanks
  11. Can anyone please advise me on an Independent Garage and / or mechanic around Peterborough who is familiar with BMW V8 engines I am looking to have complete cooling system refurb on my E39 540i as preventative maintenance.
  12. Would like to treat the Autobox in my E39 540i to a Hot Oil Flush, Fresh Oil and a new filter :). Any recommendations please ? I am based in Lincoln. Thanks
  13. Hiya I've got an M62 engine and its done about 150,000 miles. Its getting a little rattle on start up ,not all the time but more often now and Im looking to sort it out. A few weeks ago I changed the cam cover gaskets as there was a slight leak and knowing they hadn't been changed thought it would cure the misfiring issue. I was right and the misfiring stopped ( little oil down spark plug ) Now if you haven seen the inside of a 150k cam cover which (not owner from new) hasn't had the best service, you can imagine the crud that's collected. The oil breather pipe was also well blocked with crud. The worst thing I could have done was to scrape out the crap from the cover as I would not have had everything to hand to get all the bit outs and could have caused a bigger issue with floating debris. so planned to do this at a later date. I've been advised that on start up, the bottom end rattle could be a lazy oil pump. the crud at the top will almost certainly be at the bottom, clogging everything up so I wouldn't be surprised if the pump is a bit clogged Taking the covers off isn't a big job and while the covers are being cleaning I was looking at taking the sump off and also having this cleaned. at this point I though, well Vanos, im sure this could do with sorting out and not fussed about working on this engine thought id tackle it (going to change water pump and bleed power steering as well) So Vanos. I've seen a few places that sell the kits...but... do you have any recommendations, links or experience in doing this. Im after a kit list, everything to over hall the vanos including seals and press tools (if required) any alignment tools for the cams also. I know its not a 5 minute job but best to tackle everything in one go. Any advise? Cheers...John
  14. Last summer I bought a really rough E39 535i for the princely sum of £450. It had MOT for 9 months, so I've been running it for as long as possible, spending as little as possible on it. It really is not worth fixing, too much wrong with it, but I love the drive so have put a deposit down on a 540i Touring. Here are the ebay pics. Picking it up on Wednesday and can't wait.
  15. I'm having a maddening problem with my E34 540i Auto. When it's cold (temp needle in the blue), the revs surge and fall quite dramatically, almost as though you were manually opening the throttle. This happens whatever gear it's in. It happens most prominently when you drive away and pull up at the lights: then, with my foot on the brake and the car in Drive, it surges from its usual revs all the way up to 800 or 1000rpm. If you try and pull away while it's doing this, it cuts out immediately, and then it takes forever to restart and you can tell that it's flooding itself. The problem goes away as soon as the car is warm (needle at halfway mark), but if you park it up once it's warmed and leave it for an hour or so, it will again battle to start, swinging away lustily but not catching. I can get it to start by swinging at it with the throttle half-depressed. Doing this while cranking for a minute or so will see it starting. This problem began in earnest after the CPS was changed, after the previous one failed. Other things that have been checked are the injectors (fine), fuel lines (fine) and fuel pump (also fine), and the various vacuum bits and gaskets have all been done. Any ideas, before I drive her into the cold Cape sea?
  16. Hi guys, I need some help please. I'm replacing the water pump on my B10 V8 and managed to loosen it all off and remove all the bolts but it's stuck behind this silver pipe that I can find no reference to The water pump needs to come out somehow but this pipe is stopping it. I can find no reference to the pipe in the TIS, and guides or any youtube vids. It goes across the front of the engine stopping at a vacuum regulator device thing in front of the offside cylinder head and it disappears underneath the cylinder head overhangs just above the exhaust manifolds. What is it and how do I loosen it off to get the pump out please? All help and suggestions gratefully received. The pipe..... The regulator thing.... Disappearing under the nearside head above the alternator....
  17. Hello chaps Over the coming months I will be making some subtle upgrades to my 540i Sport, I like to document these things and here seemed like a good place to start. Bit of history, I have had four BMWs, an E36 318is, an E39 535i Sport Individual in Velvet blue (should never have sold that one), an E36 325i Sport Coupe, and now my latest the E39 540i Sport. I have had the car for just over a year and was on the edge of selling it, however after finding nothing that will replace it in a satisfactory fashion within budget it is staying, that and I knew I would pine for it once it was gone! Now it will be given a number of updates to make the car more enjoyable to drive and easier to use. Normally I would leave my daily car stock, but things are a little difficult at home as my daughter is very ill, so my long term project has had to be put on indefinite hold. To keep me busy at the weekends the 540 will step in, a few little mods and updates should keep my hand in This is the other project, currently a bare shell waiting for some fab work and paint - Time for some pictures, this is just after I picked it up, in pretty good condition and around 88k miles. It had a stupid cone filter and four different brands of tyre, but overall condition was not bad at all. Paint needed a damn good clay and wax and the interior was filthy, all of this was seen to over the subsequent weeks. In the past year it has had new Meyle HD thrust arms, TCA's, arb bushes, track rod ends, pitman arm and bearing, custom geometry set up, along with all the normal servicing etc. New boots were purchased and most of the tramlining and odd handling disappeared - A set of winter wheels and tyres were purchased and fitted - The car hand since done a lot of miles with us, trips all over the country. Yorkshire - On the way to Loch Lomond - Today was a wash wax and tidy up before some of the bits arrive Plan is over the coming months to do the following - Rear tca's and lower bearings. Auto gearbox fluid change. Gearbox and engine mounts Paddle shift conversion using the AMG paddles, I have ordered the heated steering wheel slip ring off of an E46 m3, just need the paddles and a bit of time. Some exhaust work, removing both the rear boxes and fitting a nice stainless straight through box. An android double din satnav head unit and replacing the stock speakers with some infinity or jbl units. Build the current 10" bass speaker into a built in enclosure to get the boot space back and make it neater. A possible seat change to something even better than the electric sport items I have atm. I will try and keep this thread up to date with pictures of the work Thanks for reading. J
  18. Hi guys I am in the process of replacing the steering box on my 540i. I found a lot guides before I started how to do it. Unfortunately all of them seems to be for R6 engine. As you know on the V8 there much less space to work with. Where I am know: All the heatshields off hoses off box fixing bolts off pitman arm disconnected. I have everything undone with the box loose I am just not sure which way to remove it. I started to undo tie rod arm to try to move it towards back of the car and down but I am not sure is this the right way. I went through plenty of threads but everybody mainly focus on adjusting the box. Replacement instruction on e34.net is not very accurate. Have anyone done this before on the v8 and can recall how to the the box off the car ? Any advice welcome. Cheers.
  19. Hey, been asking for help with a couple of things in the e39 specific forum but thought I would officially come and say hello! Well here it is, got her last week, its a 2000 540i sport auto in Biarritz Blue with sand/cream (lol?) interior. It's sitting on a set of 18" Alpinas with brand new Falken 453's all round. Just getting it through the MOT, so it's had a few things sorted after a weekend of spannering! It's got 75k on the clock and a fair few stamps in the book and considering its 13 years old I'm quite impressed with the condition of it, only spot of rust is a small bubbling around the boot lock. Still a few things I want to do, like replace that white undertray on the front drivers side, external temp sesnor doesnt work (assume where the white undertray is, would be where the temp sensor is/was?), find some standard springs to replace the Apex kit that is on there lowering it at the moment, sort the rust bubbles around the lock and perhaps a wheel refurb to rid of the kerb marks, not sure how much that would cost though? Cheers! Mike
  20. Hi gang, For those of you that tow a decent sized trailer regularly, have you had to make any other modifications to your e39 to make sure it's reliable? Specifically, adding an aux cooler for the trans, or do anything to the OEM cooling system? I recently purchased a towbar from a member here to mount on our 2000 540it. For whatever reason BMW didn't offer them for long in the States, probably to pus the X5 instead. So finding anybody Stateside that tows with an e39 is rare. We'd like to tow a 1000-1500 kg travel trailer around for a few weeks this summer, and I'm worried about overheating her, or blowing the trans. Our touring is a 540it with the self levelling rear suspention, and the towbar is a witter fixed ball model rated to 2000 kg. I'm mostly worried about heat killing the engine or trans. Any other suggestions / tips/ tricks welcome too! Thanks! Ian - Portlandia, Oregon USA
  21. Hi all I am writing again regarding issue in my 540i v8. As last month i had coolant missing without leak now i have since few days coolant smell. It smells only when engine is warm. When i drive it and stop somewhere after few minutes when i start engine coolant smell goes through air ducts. Its stronger when car idle less strong while driving. It happens all time only after car was driven from cold and engine gets it temperature. Also when engine is warm i can smell coolant outside the car especially on the front without opened bonniet. There no leaks,valley pan clear. Cooling system was checked 3 times with pump under 2 bars pressure. No leaks but i belive that there must be leak otherwise it wouldn't smell. Thank u and please help