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About M635uk

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    E34 535ise

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  1. M635uk

    Need Help...Broken M5

    Feel for you, terrible bad luck.
  2. M635uk

    Need Help...Broken M5

    I would do a search as Frank Farhey Motorsport in the US did an upgraded damper which illuminated this issue. Re the crank been knackered - that depends if there is any damage to the nose. Yep the sump comes off, if the damper bolt is sheared then the damper should come off no problem! then you will be left with extracting the bolt shank, which should come out as the torque has gone from the damper failure. To get the crank sprocket off you need a really really good puller. The sprocket is heat shrinked on to the crank nose so it will be tight on there. I would replace the crank sprocket as a matter of course. Hopefully the crank isn't actually damaged. I did a full chain, guide and sprocket change out on my M635 with the engine in the car. So maybe the engine doesn't have to come out. Depends how far you have to dig and what damage you find. Getting the sump off to inspect things is straight forward. Realoem.com quote the damper at $660 but best to ring BM for the actual £ cost. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=HD92-EUR-03-1990-E34-BMW-M5_36&diagId=11_0332 You can get a guide on prices for the other bits from their too.
  3. M635uk

    Bmw e34 540i clutch help

    When I changed my dual mass flywheel to a single mass flywheel on my m30 I had to use a different release bearing that was longer than the DMF one to make up the difference between the two flywheels. Could this be your issue?
  4. M635uk

    Need Help...Broken M5

    Crank hub failure then. Nut and/or woodruff key? Link below shows photo's of what may have happened. I would not recommend his solution though - JB welding the woodruff key in place! But hope it helps you progress the diagnosis. http://www.firstfives.org/faq/keyway/Crank_Keyway_Repair.html
  5. M635uk

    Need Help...Broken M5

    Ps - once corrected do a compression test to see if valves have been bent...
  6. M635uk

    Need Help...Broken M5

    Had an m635 which jumped 2 teeth on the crank (similar engine to you) - so both inlet and exhaust cam were 2 teeth out. Didn't cause any cam or piston damage, but they were 264 cams which will be different to yours. Cam chain was absolutely knackered with 2 rollers actually missing (found them in the sump). I got my cam sprockets slotted and fitted schrick 272's and timed them precisely myself. Hope your cam isn't too damaged. I would inspect the chain very carefully and fit a new tensioner as a minimum. Then get the cam sprockets slotted and time precisely. £90 to slot my sprockets with 6 deg adjustment either way.
  7. Major step forward now. Refurbed the original afm with a new contact board (from china but seems to work) and she fired up and idled ok. Ran her down the road for the first time since the engine upgrade and she runs. Will need some fine fettling no doubt as off idle is a bit stumbly, but i have a smile on my face. So two air leaks and two duff afm later i am back in business. The cam and chip supplier has also been very helpful and is sending an improved chip free of charge following some recent developments that they have had. Cheers for now and thanks to all that chipped in with advice, much appreciated. ian
  8. Ok will do thanks, ian
  9. Duncan, i think this is a sensible way to go. Trying to find a good used afm is unlikely given there age now and that Bosch discontinued them a few years ago. You seem to be able to get them old stock from the US tuners but it will cost about £600 to get one. i have searched a bit on the web re unichip and it would be ideal to get rid of the afm and simply use a variable tps. Do you know where these can be purchased in the uk? Most sites sem to want to offer tuning as well. i would fit it myself, previously fitted a megajolt system to a redtop converted dolly sprint which has been fine for years so not phased by doing it myself. Then run it 2 miles to a rolling road tuner i have used before in Congleton. thanks ian
  10. Hi, Will check continuity from afm to ecu. May bin the afm all together and go for a maf conversion.
  11. Big step forward today. Removed all the intake gubbins and started again. I noticed no3 intake had some debris behind it when i removed the manifold. Also one of the injectors wasn't seating good enough. So with these issues sorted the car will start, run and idle fine. But only with the afm disconnected. Connect the afm and is instantly dies.... I have tested it with a 9v battery connected and it does give a variable voltage output with flap opening,. So it actually tests ok? at least it idles good now!
  12. Hi, yes B35 in an E34 with motronic 1.3. (179 ecu). So only one speed sensor on the crankshaft damper, plus the no6 cylinder ignition wire pulse (that I am told doesn't actually do much and the car will run fine without it) Discussing things with the supplier, and as ever they are being very helpful. I now have valve clearances to adjust to 14 thou and not 10 as currently set, plus need to increase fuelling by relaxing the spring tension on afm. Could do with a portable emissions tester. Ian
  13. Yes, going to methodically take everything off and rebuild again, the bung that five-oh mentiond is intact, but to be sure i am going to take the manifold off. Looking at the injectors they dont seem that secure in the manifold with no 6 being particularly dodgy. Will report back once i have done everything. Ian
  14. Hi, thanks for the input. I will revisit the timing, need to think deeper here. I set the cam with no1 valves closed, no6 on overlap. Rotor arm is fixed by the peg that fits in the end of the camshaft. So i am struggling to see how this can be out by 180 degrees? If i was to disconnect the camshaft sprocket, rotate cam so no6 was closed and no1 on overlap and reset, then rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees i would end up with no1 valves closed and no6 on overlap i.e. Where i am now? Or am i missing something? I rev of crank gives 1/2 rev of camshaft. Fuel pressure tested this morning and its fixed at around 3 bar on the rail, so not over pressurising. i agree it might be something i have missed on the rebuild, so i may take it apart and rebuild again. Cheers for now ian
  15. Just rechecked everything on the inlet side and cant find any vacuum leaks at all, run it up and removed the oil filler cap and it does change the engine tone as you would expect. I dont think its a vacuum leak.