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M635uk

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About M635uk

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    E34 535ise

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  1. M635uk

    E28 m5 timing chain

    Did this a number of years ago on my M635. it’s 2.5k if you do the chain sprockets and head refresh and get someone to do it. Parts for the chain only (that’s all parts - tensioner, crack sprocket guides etc) were about 850-900. You can do it without taking the head off if you are careful. Biggest problem is getting the crank nut off. It’s practically welded on it’s that tight. Big breaker bar and scaffold extension was needed. I did did mine at 152k miles. The chain was stretched and absolutely knackered. 2 rollers had actually fallen off. they do wear so at 139k miles it’s time to de-risk your engine.
  2. M635uk

    M30b35 engine block needed

    Pm sent thanks
  3. Tim did have one but on further inspection it was cracked at the same place as mine, in between cylinders 3 and 4 , water jacket hole to head bolt thread. So still on the search for a good b35 block.
  4. M635uk

    M30b35 engine block needed

    Due to cracking around 1 head bolt thread I need a secondhand block. Needs to be a m30b35 due to engine mount bolt holes, , preferably not requiring a rebore. Cash waiting, pm me. Thanks. Ian
  5. Thinking about it I will need a b35 block because of the engine mount holes. It’s going in an e34.
  6. Thanks, I have sent him a pm.
  7. And here is a close up of the cracks
  8. Hi having finished my e34 535 alpina engine upgrade all was going fine until I noticed slight oil in water in the coolant tank. Took the head off and found what you see in the photo. 3 cracks one at 12 0'clock one at 3 0'clock and one at 8 o'clock. Looks like oil is going to the bolt hole and then onto the water jacket. So a need a new (secondhand) m30 block preferably of standard size as I have m535 pistons into which are stand size. Anyone help here or know where I can get an m30 block. Can be m30b34 or m30b35 as the blocks are identical I believe. Thanks Ian
  9. M635uk

    Need Help...Broken M5

    Feel for you, terrible bad luck.
  10. M635uk

    Need Help...Broken M5

    I would do a search as Frank Farhey Motorsport in the US did an upgraded damper which illuminated this issue. Re the crank been knackered - that depends if there is any damage to the nose. Yep the sump comes off, if the damper bolt is sheared then the damper should come off no problem! then you will be left with extracting the bolt shank, which should come out as the torque has gone from the damper failure. To get the crank sprocket off you need a really really good puller. The sprocket is heat shrinked on to the crank nose so it will be tight on there. I would replace the crank sprocket as a matter of course. Hopefully the crank isn't actually damaged. I did a full chain, guide and sprocket change out on my M635 with the engine in the car. So maybe the engine doesn't have to come out. Depends how far you have to dig and what damage you find. Getting the sump off to inspect things is straight forward. Realoem.com quote the damper at $660 but best to ring BM for the actual £ cost. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=HD92-EUR-03-1990-E34-BMW-M5_36&diagId=11_0332 You can get a guide on prices for the other bits from their too.
  11. M635uk

    Bmw e34 540i clutch help

    When I changed my dual mass flywheel to a single mass flywheel on my m30 I had to use a different release bearing that was longer than the DMF one to make up the difference between the two flywheels. Could this be your issue?
  12. M635uk

    Need Help...Broken M5

    Crank hub failure then. Nut and/or woodruff key? Link below shows photo's of what may have happened. I would not recommend his solution though - JB welding the woodruff key in place! But hope it helps you progress the diagnosis. http://www.firstfives.org/faq/keyway/Crank_Keyway_Repair.html
  13. M635uk

    Need Help...Broken M5

    Ps - once corrected do a compression test to see if valves have been bent...
  14. M635uk

    Need Help...Broken M5

    Had an m635 which jumped 2 teeth on the crank (similar engine to you) - so both inlet and exhaust cam were 2 teeth out. Didn't cause any cam or piston damage, but they were 264 cams which will be different to yours. Cam chain was absolutely knackered with 2 rollers actually missing (found them in the sump). I got my cam sprockets slotted and fitted schrick 272's and timed them precisely myself. Hope your cam isn't too damaged. I would inspect the chain very carefully and fit a new tensioner as a minimum. Then get the cam sprockets slotted and time precisely. £90 to slot my sprockets with 6 deg adjustment either way.
  15. Major step forward now. Refurbed the original afm with a new contact board (from china but seems to work) and she fired up and idled ok. Ran her down the road for the first time since the engine upgrade and she runs. Will need some fine fettling no doubt as off idle is a bit stumbly, but i have a smile on my face. So two air leaks and two duff afm later i am back in business. The cam and chip supplier has also been very helpful and is sending an improved chip free of charge following some recent developments that they have had. Cheers for now and thanks to all that chipped in with advice, much appreciated. ian
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