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GlukoN

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About GlukoN

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    Male
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    London

Garage

  • Garage
    BMW, 2009, E60 525D 3.0 L, M Sport, 6 Speed Manual, Carbon Black
  1. Dear Forum members, I've just ran through all the threads available under 3 series, but haven't noticed a topic discussing E90 320i common problems, so I thought I will start one. Anyone who had owned, or are currently owning a E90 with 2 litre 4 cylinder engine are welcome to share their experience owning this vehicle, it is much appreciated. I am looking to buy E90 specifically 320i. Why 320i you ask ? Well, my wife has recently passed her driving test and obviously myself would be much happier with 530i, but since she is also insisting on driving, we have to look for a compromise and 320i seems to be a nice choice for a couple of years until she gets some experience and insurance prices will not going to be so outrageous for anything more decent in terms of engine size. So I’ve been doing some research on 320i’s in particular the 4 door E90’s. But it seems like this 4 cylinder BMW engine were having a lot of issues. People supposedly reporting coil pack failures, fuel injectors failing, also some sort of issue with regards to ECU which supposedly was fixed by software updates, but people were still reporting problems even after the fix were applied on their vehicles. Long story short, I would love to hear from any experts or previous/current owners of E90 320i about their experience and preferably a condensed list of common problems and for what to look out when buying a used 320i. Is the engine really so bad and you would rather walk away from this particular model or all of those reported issues were merely a teething problems on early models and most of those issues were sorted out on latter models onwards ? The fact that I did not manage to find a post on "E90 320i problems" in this forum, fills me with hope that it cannot be that bad ? Or can it ? At any rate, your thoughts will be hugely appreciated. Many thanks, and a happy new year to everyone!
  2. @JasonH Thanks for the info, much appreciated. Regarding the DPF, lets say I'll tell the car the DPF was replaced. I assume, if it is really clogged up, I will get an error again regardless of whether I told it that it is replaced or not ? If not, what are the risks of running the car with clogged up DPF ? I've read somewhere that if the DPF is clogged up, some of the exhaust gasses are pushed back to the exhaust manifold and further up the engine causing premature valve seal degradation etc, is that true or just a load of BS ? At some point, I'm planing of taking the DPF out of my car and giving it a blast with power washer to wash out the soot, if the error persists. Don't see why that would not work in terms of restoring DPF. Whether this type of "repair" will last, we will see with time I guess.
  3. @BigMuthaTrUKa Thank you so much for the OBD cable link mate, that will help me a lot! I suppose I have to fetch software as well ? Can you recommend anything ?
  4. Hi Guys, An update regarding my issues. So I've changed the main thermostat and crankshaft breather, at last. Had to wait for a week for a crankshaft breather from Germany as at least EuroCarParts didn't even offer to buy one in their web page, so I've ended up ordering it from AutoDoc. After the repairs, the engine now heats up very fast. It takes around 10-15 minutes to reach 90 C while driving calmly. I've read in the forums that normal running temperature should be around 90 C, but my car usually idles at around 92-95 C while driving, I don't suppose that's unusual ? Also noticed while dissembling that, my EGR valve was in an open position (see attached image). I would assume it only closes once the car is started or should it be at a closed position by default ? I've read that EGR valve failure could cause all sorts of problems including helping DPF to clog up. Also, I've found some fresh engine oil in the EGR valve itself. There wasn't a lot of oil, but there was some. Anyone knows whether that's usual ? In terms of engine oil consumption, it seems to have stopped at half mark and does not consume any more, at least no noticeable amount anyway so far. I check oil twice a week, so far no further consumption. I'll top it off and see how it goes now. One interesting fact is that, iDrive reading showed that oil level have actually increased some time after I've replaced the crankcase breather. The dipstick is still at the half mark level. After some time iDrive again showed that the oil level is half full, so not quite sure what was that about, but one thing is clear, don't trust iDrive oil reading app. By the way, with regards to oil check with a dipstick after the engine had warmed up, I haven't noticed any noticeable difference in oil level when measured on a cold engine and warm engine. To me it seems the same. DPF error still comes up though. I know it's haven't been a long time since I did the repairs and engine heats up properly, so I will give it some time and hopefully regen will do its job, if it's not throwing that error because of the BMW software's 155k mandatory error. My next step now will be to buy the OBD cable and hook it up to a PC and check whats what. I'll post some updates as soon as I know anything new. Any comments/suggestions are more than welcome.
  5. @BigMuthaTrUKa Indeed, don't want to insult anyone that does not want to do their own repairs but to me a true driver must know how to fix his car and diagnose whats wrong with it. Not to mention that does help you to save some money. Most of the mechanics are not trustworthy, they can tell you that something is wrong when it really isn't and charge you for the repair unnecessarily. Of course there are some that are good, but I just don't want to take that chance. I was thinking about buying the cable and diagnostics software as well, but diagnostics software does not have a sensor on each and every part, so not all problems can be identified by simply connecting it to the car, still its useful I agree. Like for example, @JasonH mentioned that DPF error is highlighted when car reaches 155k miles regardless of the actual DPF condition. So having the software and being able to tick the tick box that the DPF was replaced and getting rid of the annoying error would be lovely, not to mention other benefits. I'll search for this thread on the forum, thanks for the heads up mate!
  6. @Misterbish , @Mashed Potatoes , @JasonH Thanks guys for the reply. I'll do that. I have replacement thermostat and crankcase breather and let you know the results.
  7. People, check this out. Also, I can hear a metal rubbing noise ( should be able to hear it on video when I bring phone closer to cap ), sounds like something is not right/broken inside... diagnosis ? Check the video here
  8. @Deviant Cheers m8, thanks for the tip. That does make sense, to try to remove glow plugs from a hot engine, as metal would expand ever so slightly thus making it easier i guess. Today, I've noticed one more clue, there is smoke/steam coming out of the oil filler cap, when I unscrew it, while the engine is running. I've done this after a trip so the engine was not cold. To me seems a little bit too excessive amount of smoke when compared to videos on the internet. I've read on forums that this could mean either, cracked/melted valve seals, or cracked piston head/rings! That would explain excessive oil consumption I guess. Hopefully that is not the case... I'll try to post a video for you guys so that someone with more experience could tell me whether that is normal amount of smoke/steam or whether that is something abnormal.
  9. Cheer's mate, thanks for letting me know. I will hold back from doing compression test unless it is absolutely necessary. Right now it seems that, the best solution would be to replace main thermostat, engine air breather and see whether that has any positive effects. Luckily will get this done this weekend. Should be able to sort this out on my own as it is relatively easy to do. However, it will take some time in terms of engine oil consumption and fuel consumption to figure out whether that had any positive effects. I'll keep this post updated as and when I learn more. Anyone wanting to chip in please feel free to post any advise/opinions are welcome.
  10. Damn, seems risky. I think I will hold back from doing compression check then. First will replace the engine breather and main thermostat and then see whats what. Thanks for the advice, much appreciated! Out of curiosity, in the event of glow plugs snapping, what would be the solution to remove them ? They are screwed in the engine head I assume, where petrol spark plugs would be ? If so, does that mean an engine head removal would be necessary to extract snapped glow plug ?
  11. @DarkHorse Cheers for the posts links. I've read through them, unfortunately they don't have much relevance to me as my car has manual gearbox, therefore as I understand no extra thermostat is present, thankfully. But it was an interesting fact to find out that automatic gearboxes have their own thermostat and use engine coolant. It seems like automatic gearboxes are more convenient in traffic and offer bigger comfort, but in terms of maintenance and reliability does cause pain. I'm sad to see that the newer F10, with 3 litre engine, seems to be all Automatic and manual gearbox is only available in measly 2 litre engines... This fact alone does considerably put me of from buying F10.
  12. @JasonH Thanks for your reply. I wasn't aware that the fault code is flagged regardless of the actual DPF condition. I would assume the BMW dealerships would not clear the fault without insisting to replace the DPF ? If that is the case, where would it be possible to clear the DPF fault without having to go to the BMW dealership? Is it possible to do it without connecting it to the diagnostics software ? With regards to oil consumption, don't mean to be bashing BMW, but to me it seems that, they would be inclined to say that its normal, to encourage people not to worry about it until something serious fails and it needs repairing. They all want and need to make money somehow, so i think that would be in their interest, especially in nowadays consumer society, things that last are not useful. Furthermore, I think its more than a 1L of oil per 1000 miles, so that's why I'm worried. I've also read that, putting your foot down on accelerator, while the engine is cold, might cause oil consumption, which I must admit I have done, not excessively, but it did happen. Therefore, now I'm trying to drive calmly until engine warms at least up until 60 degrees, before putting my foot down, to see whether that makes any change to the oil consumption. I will definitely do the oil check after a run, just to see whether there is any difference in oil level when measured from cold and after a run. Though logically I don't see why there would be a difference, does oil volume expands as it gets warmer ? If so, I would suspect that volume expansion would not be as dramatic as an extra litre of oil in volume. But I will do the test. With regards to the compression check, snapping of the glow plug would be most unfortunate. Are they prone to snapping ? I would still want to take a risk of doing this just to make sure the compression is fine and I would probably leave that up to mechanic to do, since I have never done it myself yet. Also, that would give me a chance to inspect glow plugs as well. Though if they are prone to snapping and it is a common occurrence, I might hold back from doing this. With regards to exhaust smell, there is no smell in the cabin or under the bonnet so far. I've meant that I can sort of feel oil smell when I lean over to the tailpipe and smell the exhaust fumes. However, no white or blue smoke visible, the smoke is colourless. Thanks for the info JasonA, much appreciated! I will make sure to change the main thermostat ASAP
  13. @pidgeonpost Many thanks for the reply! I came to an understanding that if the DPF is clogged up good, the regeneration will not help to clean it, the only way to do it is to remove the DPF and blast it with power washer. But I will give it a go, having in mind that mine one might not be clogged up much. I will try to avoid driving anywhere before I do any repairs to the car so not to clog it up even more. With regards to oil check, I agree that the Idrive check is not to be trusted, the dipstick is the way to go. However, as my engine never reaches the normal running temperature which is 95 degrees i believe ? I will not be able to check the oil as suggested in the handbook. Also did not thought that, it takes only 5 minutes after the engine stopped running for the oil to completely run down and gather at the oil pan, though I might be wrong. I will give it a go. Would like to mention that I do realize that for a most accurate test with the dipstick the car should be parked at a level ground otherwise the dipstick reading will not be accurate. With regards to smoke as evidence for oil running into the engine, I am surprised too, that there is no evidence as smoke. I suppose most of that smoke might get blocked by the DPF ? Although I must admit that the exhaust when the car is running does smell a bit like an oil. Although not quite sure how a normal exhaust fumes should smell, and somehow going to other cars leaning down and smelling their exhaust fumes in order to figure it out how it should smell does seem to be a bit excessive to me All in all, I think my further plan is to replace the main thermostat, and do a compression check to make sure piston rings and valve seals are OK. Will post the results as soon as I get it done.
  14. @DarkHorse Thanks so much for your response. I will definitely read it. Want to get as much info as I can get my hands on before I actually go ahead and try to repair things. Do not want to waste money needlessly, although replacing parts will not do any harm, my budget is not so huge that I could allow myself to throw money away left and right. Especially when I am planing to rent a garage with lift and do the repairs on my own, which is not exactly cheap, but I recon will save me some money than having to go to dealership or specialist for such easy repairs as thermostat change. I do not mean to do a commercial or anything, want to leave this here in case any other people reading this post find it useful, but if anyone lives in London, I found a neat garage rent at http://www.pitstartgarage.com/ where one could rent a space with a lift for 20 pounds an hour, or if you need assistance you can also hire a mechanic for 50 pounds an hour and work together to repair your vehicle which seams ideal to me. This way I get complete transparency and am absolutely sure I repair replace parts that are absolutely necesary to be replaced. I will keep this post updated with what I managed to find out as and when I find out more about the issues and what caused them, as I've noticed some of the posts sometimes, does forget to mention whether they have resolved the problem and what was the culprit for it.
  15. Dear BMW forum members, I've joined the BMW fan club recently ( a year ago ) by buying my first hard earned BMW car. It's a 2009 BMW E60 525D M Sport 5 series. I've been reading about the common fault and issues that this particular BMW model suffers from, in your forum as well as many others. I came to an understanding that if well maintained, this vehicle is quite reliable, but as I've rushed to buy one I must say I've probably haven't bought the best example there is. My BMW has 154k miles on the clock and according to service history book was well maintained and regularly serviced. I am the second owner from new and the first owner had it up until I bought it from the used car dealership. Overall the car seems to be in a pretty good shape, pulls well, haven't been in any major accident ( as far as I know ). However, recently I've got an dreadful DPF warning light and an Idrive suggestion to get it checked. I am not worried about DPF being clogged up, as I've researched that it is quite easy to simply clean the DPF filter, by removing it and giving a thorough blast through with a pressure washer to clean the access soot that has accumulated. However, what I am worried about is what has actually caused the DPF to clog up. I've managed to identify that, my engine does not heat up to normal running temperature by inspecting the reading of coolant temperature through hidden dashboard menu. No matter for how long I drive the engine usually idles at around 69 to 70 degrees. I've replaced the EGR thermostat as I've read ( again in your forum ) that this might be the culprit for low engine coolant temperature. The EGR thermostat was indeed open. I've tested it by simply blowing air into it when I've removed it and it was indeed shut open. Unfortunately replacing EGR thermostat did little to no effect, as right now the engine does heat up a bit more, when driving at low speed i do reach 75 and above, but in motorway the temperature is generally around 69 to 72 degrees, below the DPF regen cycle. I will be replacing the main thermostat as well, as I do believe it is as well shut open which is causing the temperature to be abnormally low. With that said, I've also noticed quite recently a few months ago, on Idrive that my engine oil is lower than it was half a year ago. There is no visible oil leaks on the engine, as far as I can tell with limited visibility, neither there are any oil on the driveway where I park my car. I've topped it up, and surprisingly only by pouring 1L of oil the Idrive oil reading changed from half to full which doesn't make sense to me.. So I've started to think that its the oil sensor that is acting up and started measuring oil levels with the dipstick. Since I've topped it up, I've drove around 400 miles, and the engine oil reading is back to half on Idrive as well as trustworthy dipstick. So I suspect I have oil leaking into the engine, furthermore not long after oil consumption began I've got DPF warning light. I assume the DPF got clogged up because of combination of low coolant temperatures not turning on the DPF regen cycle and oil leaking into the engine producing extra soot. I can't feel any noticeable loss of power, the car still pulls quite well, although has been quite sluggish below 2k rpm, but I suppose that is quite normal as the turbo is not kicking in below 2k rpm. There is no abnormal amount of smoke coming out of the exhaust, as well as no white or blue smoke. Although I must say, it seems that recently the car started to consume not only oil, but twice as much diesel as well, which could be a part of the DPF clogging up problem. So right now, I am looking at a 100% main thermostat replacement. With regards to engine oil consumption, I've read that it could be either, engine breather seals, turbo oil seals, valve seals, piston rings that might be causing this issue. Also, I am not sure what might be causing the excessive fuel consumption that began to trouble me lately, but I suspect it might be a crack in the air intake plumbing that is decreasing the air flow thus making the engine run richer, again possibly helping DPF to clog up. So before I do any cleaning attempt to my DPF I would like to fix the issue that made it clog up in the first place. And this is the point where I need your advise esteemed members of the BMW forum. The thermostat, engine breather, turbo oil seal, valve seals and probably air plumbing replacement is something that I am willing to put up with and invest time and money. However, if it turns out to be piston rings, I am not sure whether it is worth to bother repairing as I would imagine that would be quite costly to do. Would you recon a simple compression check of the engine would be adequate ( in case it is OK ) to eliminate the possibility of valve seals and piston rings failure ? Furthermore, will the replacement of main thermostat and engine breather guarantee that the oil consumption and DPF clogging up problems would stay at bay for some time ? Also what is your take on increased fuel consumption issue and possible cause for it ? Please let me know your opinion or suggestions would be highly appreciated. Is it worth fixing these issues or should I just go and buy a newer F10 ? I apologize for my long post, hope I didn't bore you to death if you actually decided to read it. Just wanted to make things as clear as possible.
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