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AndyM

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About AndyM

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  • Location
    The North

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  • Garage
    F11 530d

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  1. Made it sing for its supper this weekend, ripped a load of tiles off the bathroom walls and loaded up 200kg of broken tiles and rubble in some multi storage buckets. Still got two more loads to go.
  2. Any CAN bus would do. The wires in the IHKA module loom are very easily accessible though.
  3. It's not difficult, just looks a bit destructive!
  4. Here are the instructions from an F30; https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1230655&d=1434827579 It looks like the difference in the loom (retrofit at least) is that the CAN cables are at the back end of the car rather than the dash. Interestingly, that document mentions the requirement to do a calibration once fitted, the F10 document doesn't...
  5. I should also mention that the Emtronika loom only just fits - like to the mm. I didn't string across corners bow & arrow style but I didn't leave any slack either. It might be better in a saloon.
  6. Power is described in the BMW document as coming from the fusebox in the boot, so I presume that the original fit camera module would get its power from the same place - that would naturally be the best place to run the power wire to. However if you use the Emtronika loom you need to strip the power cable all the way back out of this and retape, or find a suitable supply in the front fuse box. The CAN was simple - it taps into High/Low on a connector for the IHKA control panel, the Emtronika kit comes with two mini wire splices which is the same as the BMW retrofit cable and the document. I stripped the Emtronika H/L cables a bit further out of the loom to allow for them to be run with the rest of the cables on that IHKA connector and not cause problems if I need to remove the NBT unit again. I have no idea what the calibration is, the ISTA description shows pictures of the screen with target marks and values but I didn't get any of that, it just started working after I ran the service procedure. The description also says that the camera learns the calibration as the vehicle drives, I don't know what it actually does but all I know is once I ran it the error message and errors reported on the TRSV module went away.
  7. I got back to work this morning and fitted the loom into the head unit and found a power source from the fuse box behind the glovebox (more below), connected the vehicle battery back and tested. Initially I was getting a picture & dynamic guidelines, visual PDC etc but a 'Rear View Camera Failure' error when activating, but at least I knew it was all functioning & would just be programming to tweak, so started to put the car back together. The job isn't really for the faint-hearted and you definitely need gap openers and patience, it can't be rushed. A few pics; Midway through, all required trim off and head unit out etc \ I installed the module here; To continue on from yesterday, all I really had left to do was connect it all up, test then put the car back together. Inserting the pins into the head unit was easy - finding power was not. The Emtronika loom that I bought had the ground (brown wire) at the module end and the +12V cable at the head unit. I'm not sure why, because the BMW instructions state that the power comes from the fuse box in the boot so the cable ends up at the wrong end of the car. If I was to do the job again, I'd split the single power cable out of the loom and run it across to the other side of the boot where the fuse box is. While there is a fuse box behind the glovebox, it's not easy to get to and you certainly can't get to the back of it to add the power cable. I ended up using a fuse tap for an ignition-switched feed (fuse 24). Putting the trim back together is easy, as long as the holes are all lined up with the panel clips and you use gap openers to run the weather strip over. Programming requires E-SYS to modify the VO to add 3AG, then coding (in my case) the NBT and PDC module. Some other instructions I saw on other forums say that you need to code the TRSVC module as well, but I didn't have that option available to me. The 'Rear View Camera Failure' error I was getting when activating the camera is due to the module needing calibrating using ISTA - thanks to Matthew for pointing that out to me, I wasn't aware of that part of it. Anyway, the end result is a fully-functional OEM rear view camera, just like it should have been specified when new and the parts cost me less than the £300 option...
  8. I started installing this afternoon, but had to stop before it was all connected up as it started to rain and I was going out anyway, but so far have spent 4 hours on physical work which includes at least an hour of trying to fathom the BMW retrofit instructions which (while full of info) are unnecessarily confusing. The essentials; I spent far longer than expected getting to the boot release handle, mainly actually getting the trim away from inside the tailgate. I've watched videos of the retrofit on saloons and it seems easier to get the trim off than a touring, which involves four screws and six clips but is held in place by another piece of trim around the glass which I can only presume the whole car is built around as it does not come away. Actually getting the handle out is also a pain in the arse as it's held in with clips on both sides as well as top & bottom made worse by the fact that you cannot get directly to the back of it, even when the tailgate trim is off. I ended up sacrificing some of the clips on the old boot release using a gap opener from outside in order to get some leverage, but the whole thing gets replaced anyway so no big deal. Cabling from the camera is relatively simple, across the tailgate to the passenger side and down through the hinge cover, there are no grommets to try and squeeze the cable or connector through, but you need to make sure that where the cable turns back and goes down the rear pillar it has enough slack to allow for the tailgate to close without snapping. From there it runs down the C pillar with some other cables, using the conveniently positioned ground and pops out behind the left hand removable boot panel. I mounted the camera module behind the left of the removable boot panels, apparently there's a proper bracket that fits there but there are other fixing points available as long as you don't mind it not being stacked with the other modules. I've just cable tied it in securely for now but will get it fixed in place with some brackets once I know it's all working. Running the main loom down the passenger side of the car is straightforward, from the camera module to the head unit. The loom easily pops out from the boot behind the rear seats (the seat base and side bolster just pull off) and from then you follow existing cabling, including down a tunnel past the B pillar, up at the A pillar and behind the glove box - remove this to make it easier to access - to the back of the head unit. This is where I'm up to, I haven't fitted the pins into the head unit connector yet, or worked out where the power is to come from, but since the fuse box is there that shouldn't be a problem. The confusing bit of the BMW document (attached) is where it talks about vehicles with a video switch if they have DVD, TV, Night Vision or Apps. I have Apps - I believe all LCI cars do - but how do I know if I have a video switch? And why would Apps need a video switch? I have a module already fitted behind the left boot vanity panel which has an IMEI number on the label so I believe this is the vehicle SIM but it has exactly the same connector as the camera (blue fakra) which made me think the wiring might already be in place and this was the video switch. Anyway, I spent time trying to work this bit out because it just isn't clear from the instructions what this looks like or any identifying marks. Thanks to Matthew also for the coding software heads up. So far I have modified the VO to include 3AG and written the code to the PDC and NBT module and when in reverse I now get the camera options appearing on the screen although no video display as yet - will see what tomorrow brings once I've get the TRSV module recognised and coded as well. I''ll do another update tomorrow, hopefully with a working camera... BMW F10 3AG retrofit camera NBT.pdf
  9. I now have the camera, handle, loom and control module along with some gap openers and an ENET-OBD cable. Just need to get going with the physical install, although I want to connect it all up and test first before doing the final install. Can anyone PM with a heads up for the coding software?
  10. Just a jape, probably much in the same way as your post was.
  11. Me too. Anyway, isn't the guy with the tools the fitter?
  12. AndyM

    Tyre temperatrures

    After doing the front-rear swap, the higher temperatures followed the wheels which rules out additional heat due to brakes, wheel bearings or similar. I double checked all tyre pressures with a decent gauge, adjusted to match the correct front/rear pressures after the swap then did a reset and the car was in for alignment and balancing the next day. I hadn't driven until this morning other than the very short trip back home from the garage, so monitored the temperatures today and noted that they are all now within 1 degree of each other so I think the problem is solved. I get the feeling that the sensors might have been out of calibration which the reset has cured and has probably also been helped by the alignment, which while it wasn't a mile out did need adjusting. The balancing was miles out however and a wheel constantly wobbling - especially at motorway speeds - is going to cause additional heat & tyre wear.
  13. Had a four-wheel alignment and a proper wheel balancing (take all the weights off and start again) done at a very good motor engineer. In his words; 'The apprentice must have balanced those wheels, they were a country mile out'. The alignment was slightly off also, but not much. Hopefully it solves my motorway vibrations and slightly 'wooly' right turn in.
  14. AndyM

    Tyre temperatrures

    Interesting - thanks. I swapped the fronts to backs & vice versa last night so will monitor and see if my temperature difference follows. There was nothing obvious on the wheels - all spun freely not catching on disks etc. The rear left tyre (now front left) was worn a bit strangely though, like it had been overinflated resulting in the middle being more worn. It's booked in for a four wheel alignment and proper wheel balancing (take them all off and start again) on Friday so I'll mention this all to the guy.
  15. I believe you can code the front fog lights to be operated at the same time as the high beam, however I haven't tried it personally.
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