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cib24

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About cib24

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    2003 BMW E39 530i SE Auto

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  1. Didn't know about that site. Let me check it now. Thanks.
  2. Hi, I'm looking to replace my front upper and lower control arm bushings rather than the entire arms as I have a press and its cheaper to do. Can someone point me to the right parts to buy? Ebay has several but they often look different and people call the arms control arms or thrust arms or something else. Thank you.
  3. Hi Dan, thanks for the comments. Yes, I realised after the fact that Eicher wasn't a great brand but despite their cheapness I don't think they are the source of the issue at the moment (although I will definitely check them on both sides and with the feeler gauge just to be sure). The calipers are a good point to check over as that very well could be it as I'm sure they have never been refurbished in 126,000 miles. I am hesitant to think it's anything in the rear as most of the rear suspension was replaced by BMW a couple years and c.30,000 miles ago...and the car drove absolutely perfect after installing the new discs and pads for that first 1,100 miles. I would think if it was an obvious front or rear bushing replacing the discs and pads wouldn't make the shimmy go away as the bushings would exhibit the problem all the time? I'll have to go for a drive, pull over and check the alloys as I never thought to do that and see if they felt warm. Same with the calipers. It's odd but this seems to be a common issue with these cars on the American BMW forums and I can't say I have ever had a car that had issues with pad deposits or a wheel shimmy like this one before, but all of my past cars have been Japanese and never anything considered as a "luxury" vehicle.
  4. My wife and I just came back from a 10 day trip driving from London up through the Scottish Highlands and parts of Scotland (Isle of Arran, Isle of Mull, Isle of Skye, Loch Lomond, Cairngorms, Edinburgh) covering 1,879 miles during our journey and averaging a shade over 28 mpg (regular 95 unleaded - best on the motorway was about 34 mpg on a cruise) in my 530i filled to the brim with luggage in the boot and back seats. It was a memorable experience and the BMW never missed a beat the whole time, although after 10 days on some really bad Scottish island roads there are a couple of new stone chips and new minor rattles in the interior that never existed before (I think it's the front windows and sunroof glass) which I will need to attend to some day. We even made it from London all the way to the ferry town of Androssan on one tank of fuel (456 miles) and I guess we nearly ran out as I filled up 69.44 litres! However, despite the great trip and the amazing cruiser that the BMW was for this journey, I have an issue with the front brake discs. I had the car MOT'd 7 days prior to our trip and replaced the advisory front anti-roll bar drop links and also took the opportunity to replace the scored and warped front discs and pads. I replaced the discs with Euro Car Parts Eicher Premium front discs (Link) and Pagid brake pads (Link). Replacing the discs and pads removed the steering wheel shimmy at 50-60 mph and steering wheel and car shaking under braking from 70 mph down to 40 mph. On the new brakes the car was driven moderately mostly cruising up and around Scotland with no panic stops or any unusual driving that you would expect to cause issues. However, once we got to the Isle of Skye and about 1,100 miles into our trip, the shimmy started to come back under cruise between 45-85 mph and when braking at speeds from 90 mph down to 45 mph. I'm going to check the brakes again but I'm pretty sure this has nothing to do with warped discs so soon and has to do with uneven pad deposits or something else. I have read that it could also be attributed to the front thrust arm bushings being bad although we checked everything thoroughly in the pit at the MOT station with a crow bar and all bushings front and rear aside from the drop links I replaced appeared to be in very good shape with nothing unusual. Perhaps the thrust arms can appear to be fine but are actually worn once you take the part off the car? If it's uneven pad deposits then I would assume I could simply do a few hard stops out on the motorway and get the brakes hot and the issue should sort itself out. But the purpose of this thread is to ask for other tips for what else I should be checking to figure out why I am having this issue so soon after putting new brakes and pads on the car? Thanks.
  5. cib24

    Hi! New 2003 BMW 530i SE Auto owner

    The car passed it's MOT today. It failed initially due to needing the anti-roll bar drop links replaced. Luckily, those are super cheap so we fixed it within the hour. Otherwise, no advisories, bushings all in good shape and no signs of corrosion. We also figured out my brake shudder issue and it was not any thrust arm or any other control arm or suspension piece. It was simply the front brake discs. Warped and grooved on the inside where you can't see. Ordered a new set of discs (Eicher so probably crap) and front pads (Pagid). Car drives very nice now with the new drop links and braking is so smooth all the way to a stop. Awesome. Car seems to be good to go for many miles. Looking forward to my 2,000 miles Scottish road trip in two weeks! We'll see if this trip makes me fall for this car.
  6. cib24

    Aux cable with casette tape in dash?

    Yeah, fair enough. I guess I'll go down that route or go down the old fashion casette tape aux cable adapter. Mind sharing a photo of how your Kenwood unit looks in your centre console? Perhaps there is a nice solution that site behind the faux wood panel and still allows you to use the features of the multi-function display below it?
  7. cib24

    Aux cable with casette tape in dash?

    Thanks that's actually a neat solution but out of curiosity how do these sound? What's the equivalent MP3 bitrate? Obviously, it won't be as good as a CD.
  8. cib24

    Aux cable with casette tape in dash?

    Fair enough. I'm not necessarily looking for a low quality connection though if I can help it. Just trying to update the connectivity on the car to allow MP3s to be played from the phone. Bluetooth compatibility would be great but I'm not ready to put in an aftermarket head unit and ruin the aesthetic of the centre console. I'll look into that though and I guess I'll take the cassette player out and see what's behind it.
  9. cib24

    Aux cable with casette tape in dash?

    Well, I don't use CD's nowadays like most people and I would prefer to just plug my phone in and cycle through my music on there. This is a great video to show how to install an aux cable on a single CD unit, but I'm not sure if the casette unit has the same wiring setup and if I can use the same adapter to install an AUX cable, or if there is another method. Hence, why I am asking the question here before buying the kit and taking the centre console apart:
  10. I am planning to use this car for a trip to the Scottish Highlands at the end of March and we will end up covering about 2,000 miles over 10 days. I need some tunes and this car came with a 6 disc CD player in the boot which is no longer there, and in the centre dash is a cassette player. I have seen online how to add a aux cable if you have a single CD player in the centre dash but is the process the same for one with a cassette player? Using the same kind of cable and modification to the pins? I know you can get cheaper versions of this if you are modifying the single-CD player in the centre dash: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-BMW-E39-E53-Auxiliary-Audio-Connection-Retrofit-Kit-Cable-65120153502/252844266504?hash=item3adeb15408:g:My8AAOSwhQhY46~-
  11. cib24

    Hi! New 2003 BMW 530i SE Auto owner

    In the meantime, I am planning to use this car for a trip to the Scottish Highlands at the end of March and we will end up covering about 2,000 miles over 10 days. I need some tunes and this car came with a 6 disc CD player in the boot which is no longer there, and in the centre dash is a cassette player. I have seen online how to add a aux cable if you have a single CD player in the centre dash but is the process the same for one with a cassette player? Using the same kind of cable and modification to the pins? I know you can get cheaper versions of this: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-BMW-E39-E53-Auxiliary-Audio-Connection-Retrofit-Kit-Cable-65120153502/252844266504?hash=item3adeb15408:g:My8AAOSwhQhY46~-
  12. cib24

    Hi! New 2003 BMW 530i SE Auto owner

    Well, so far no issues with the car other than the brake shimmy is annoying and I sometimes wonder if a wheel is a little out of balance due to a little shaking at random times when driving. The good thing is that hopefully most of this can be looked into and sorted out soon as I have my MOT coming up. Not expecting any advisories but the shop is also a trusted mechanic of mine that I have been using for a while and we are going to get the car up on the lift and have my first look at the underbody condition and all of the bushings. Hopefully with a close inspection we can identify things that are tired. In the meantime I am having a single stage paint enhancement detail done on the car to being the paint back to life, touch in the stone chips, and give it some protection.
  13. Hi all, I recently purchased a 2003 BMW 530i SE Auto and introduced myself here and talked about a few things that I noticed might need replacing or looking into further. The car has 124,000 miles and full BMW service history through 106,000 miles with the last 18,000 miles being self serviced, i.e. oil changes, power steering fluid, cam cover gasket, brake pads, hedgehog, and one or two other things. I am happy to keep the self servicing going forward as I regularly work on my FD and know my way around a car for the most part. One thing I note looking at the service history and the radiator hoses is that it would appear that the radiator, water pump, etc. is all original...at least if you go by the dates on the radiator hoses which are stamped with 2002/03. I have received some initial advice in the other thread to replace all of this stuff with Behr or Nissens parts from bmwmotormec on Ebay which is all well and good but a couple questions on this here: I am usually of the mind with my cars that if it isn't broken, don't try to fix it. I am going to guess that sort of mentality isn't what will be recommended here but I have had a good look at the radiator, hoses and everything else that I can see bar the water pump and thermostat, and it all looks to be in really good shape if I'm honest. Am I going to be playing with fire here? It looks like the radiators all come with plastic end tanks. Is there nothing that is full aluminium so that you don't have to worry about any plastic fatigue and splitting over time? How about the plastic water pump impellers...anything better than that? I mean, if it all works fine with the plastic for 124,000 miles then I'm happy to consider replacing these things with new parts but at the same time if they have lasted 1240,000 miles the way they are I would not expect them to start failing dramatically in the near future. If I go about replacing these things what do I need to focus on? Just the water pump, radiator and hoses? Anything else? Light vacuum from the oil filler cap when removed: I have read that this could mean the CCV is not functioning properly anymore but usually when it is bad it causes a rough idle, a lot of oil consumption (like 1L every 500 miles), and terrible fuel economy. It's something I guess I will need to monitor over the next 1,000 miles or so to see if it is in fact on its way out, but so far the idle is silky smooth, oil consumption I'm not sure about yet, and I got 32.7 mpg driving the car back from Durham for 5 hours at a steady 70-80mph for most of it so economy seems like it is where it should be given the cold weather. Automatic gearbox fluid. Gearbox seems to shift fine and the only time I notice it shifting is on light throttle acceleration when it will shift around 2,000 RPM and then you can barely feel it, at higher RPM shifts you can't even tell it is shifting. No slipping noticed either but I do wonder if 124,000 miles and c.14-15 year old fluid is really doing anything effective in there anymore. Are changes recommended? Is it recommended to just drain and fill or take off the pan and replace the filter too? Is Esso LT 71141 the only fluid you should be using? What about the diff? Does it just take 75w-90 synthetic from Motul or Millers or does it also require something specific? Another thing to ask about is the brake shimmy. This car has the shimmy problem when braking from between 50-70 mph. If you brake from 100 there is no shimmy until about 70-ish mph and then below 50 mph there is also no shimmy. The car drives straight and true and is supremely comfortable with no noticeable knocks that I could detect. I have read that this could be literally anything on the suspension which isn't of great help. My guess was going to be something in the front suspension was tired and also because there is a £2,000 invoice for some kind of rear suspension work a few years ago (I wish the receipt was specific as to which bushings, dampers, whatever were replaced). Is it likely to be the front or rear control arms, or what is called the thrust arm bushing, or warped brake discs, or something else? If you have to replace some of this which brands to go for? Meyle? Better to just press out the old bushings and press new ones in to save a couple ££ or is that a real pain on these cars in particular because some of the bushings look to be spherical? Finally, what is the most sensible Bluetooth audio option so that I can stream music from my phone? And which OBD II scanner do you guys use to monitor codes and things like water temp as I know the factory gauge just kind of sits in the middle until it is too late. Oh, and is there anything else I need to be thinking about at this mileage or at least keeping an eye on? Thanks and I look forward to using this car quite a bit next year.
  14. cib24

    Hi! New 2003 BMW 530i SE Auto owner

    Thanks everyone. I am pretty excited about the car and looking forward to using it quite a bit in the next year. I will start a new thread in the tech section to seek out a bit more advice on top of what you have helped me with so far. Regards.
  15. cib24

    Hi! New 2003 BMW 530i SE Auto owner

    Thanks for the tips about the radiator, etc. I'm surprised there isn't a recommended aftermarket alternative with aluminium or steel end tanks? Is there a clear expansion tank alternative so you can see the fluid level? How linear is the factory water temp gauge? I see it rise to the middle and it never leaves the middle, but how hot do things need to get before the temp gauge starts to move to the right? When I looked over the radiator and cooling pipes it all looks good to go. No leaks or anything and honestly the pipes look pretty fresh despite 2002-2003 stamps on them. I know it is original but is it more the case of it it isn't broke, don't fix it? When the cooling system fails somewhere how do these things usually go? Dramatically whereby you blow the engine or a leak starts somewhere and you can pull over and manage it until you make it home and fix it over a weekend? As for the transmission, as long as dropping the pan and removing the filter and o rings aren't going to cause me issues with sealing or whatever else then I'm happy to do it. I just read a few threads and it seems like dropping the pan can make it more trouble than it's worth and lead to issues for some reason. Glad to hear the brake fluid change isn't going to cause some type of retarded problem with the ABS. I couldn't figure out why it would do that but a few threads mentioned it. Sounds like the suspension bushings could be fun in terms of trying to find out which bushings are the issue both front and rear. How about running high mileage oil? Right now there is 0w-30 Castrol Edge synthetic in there but that seems like pretty thin stuff. Perhaps a Valvoline High Mileage 5w-30 or 10w-40 blend is a nice transition at the next oil change?
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