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Biotoxic last won the day on February 1 2018

Biotoxic had the most liked content!

About Biotoxic

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    E46, E60

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  1. Biotoxic

    Retrofit Bluetooth

    I will begin experimenting with an aux input at the back of the CCC head unit soon. By experimenting I mean there is a pins at the back of the unit for aux input. needs to be wired and coded, but no big deal with dcan cable. adding streambot to the 3.5mm jack and music streaming capability achieved for about....... haven't checked the prices of connectors and cable but should be about £40 or so. Here is the unit https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mpow-Streambot-Bluetooth-Wireless-Streaming/dp/B010T29DS8
  2. Biotoxic

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Re-retrofitted(yeah that's right) the $609 option (pre-LCI CCC) had a go at the CAPPL module after I changed the build date...... Anybody with pre-lci with LM1 can confirm that if you change the build date from #0305 to #0307 can get the visual flashes and audio confirmation when locking/unlocking the vehicle? I thought its just a LM2 option, but obviously not.. or.. its a glitch in a matrtix... lol
  3. Biotoxic

    auto unlock door when engine is stopped

    Just noticed your car is E39... I don't think you have that option to auto unlock the doors. The option the other cars have is ER_KEYOUT_AUTOVR . There might be an option in the PDC module regarding the proximity sensor activating distances. But I think you wil need to make sure, the new replacement sensor sit in correct positions in a bumper itself, correct depth and position. it is possible to install them upside down, that might affect the beeping proximity as well.
  4. Biotoxic

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Forgot to disconnect amplifiers last night, AGM battery was drained to 6.8V.. put it on deep cycle charge. fitted my old 100Ah Sulfuric acid battery and coded it to the car. Learned how to mess up the modules and recover them, also learned that E60 doesn't like any add-ons installed, like Dension module from the ISTAP side of view .... Tried to do a Complete car coding.. part successful.. busy busy...
  5. Biotoxic

    auto unlock door when engine is stopped

    In short: Install BMW tools with INPA and EDIABAS. From there use the NCS expert to read from CAS and save the trace file. I know it sounds like discovering a new America, but believe me, I don't know all that a year and half back myself.... The best resources would be YouTube and Google. First Google how to install INPA as the base files will contain NCS expert and then Google NCS dummy read through that and I am pretty sure you can use it once you get a hang of it. Oh yes. You will need to buy a K-Dcan cable from eBay. It usually comes with a software and instructions how to install it. Any problems send me a PM
  6. Biotoxic

    Driver's Airbag Dash light question

    It shouldn't have shoved up if you disconnected the battery, removed the airbag connector then put everything back and connected the battery. Check what the INPA says. If it is not under the airbag section then it must be under right sattelite section.
  7. Biotoxic

    ZF 6hp26 oil change

    Mechatronics seal. That's where the gearbox electrical plug connects to the mechatronics unit EGS. Without removing it, it is unable to remove the mechatronics unit from the gearbox.
  8. Biotoxic

    auto unlock door when engine is stopped

    Yes, if you can post a trace file from CAS I can change it to auto unlock.
  9. Biotoxic

    New car - new problems

    for number 3, you will also need to register battery replacement/coding if it is a different type OR Ah battery.
  10. Biotoxic

    ZF 6hp26 oil change

    Regarding gearbox specialist. .. not too sure, but looks like there are several companies doing gearbox repair. Regarding the plastic notch... indeed there is a groove on the mating surface on the upper gearbox, so it can be fitted correctly. Luckily for me, the seals on both of them are easily removable so I just swapped the seals/gaskets(the case was ok so I reused the old plastic bit). The part I got from the dealership, it's actually 6HP19/21 with a part No: 0501215783 although on the packaging it was correct part number meant for 6HP26 Gbox. So its a fault from the packaging department. If anybody orders this adapter, then make sure the numbers on the part itself matches the one you actually ordered or you might have to grind the plastic notch off... Well... the manual says, not to touch the contacts unnecessary both on a mechatronic side and the electric plug side so I didn't touch them, that's about it. Just don't put it on a ground itself, will be fine then.
  11. Biotoxic

    ZF 6hp26 oil change

    Exactly that! They are hard to get to... It's just easier to leave them, but it wouldn't be any good as the problem will still be there after the gearbox learn your driving style. I suppose using a torque wrench on extra ten bolts are a bit too much hustle ... For me not changing those bridge seals would be the same as changing the whole clutch on a manual gearbox, but leaving the old thrust bearing in...
  12. Biotoxic

    ZF 6hp26 oil change

    Hi folks, This might be useful for some. So, this was on my To-do list for quite some time now and finally had a time and a place where to do it myself. At first, I wanted to find a good gearbox specialist shop, but since I live in NI I had to go to Scotland or Ireland. I decided that I will do it myself as I read mixed reviews regarding a transmission oil change. After researching I decided to go for a metal oil pan instead of a standard plastic one. Info on my car: 2005/03 535d sport current mileage 213400 Issues that I had was while being stopped at the traffic lights and the engine is warm if I step on the accelerator as soon as I release the brakes two out of three times the RPMs would increase, nothing would happen for about a second and then when the torque converter would engage it would shoot off. another issue where while driving at constant speed, for example, anything between 40 mph an 80 mph the rpm gauge would fluctuate.... exactly as it is in this video here although if I change it to DS mode(semi-sport) the RPMs would fluctuate no matter how fast I would drive. I thought its the torque converter on its way out, but it wasn't the case, at least in not this instance... Anyway, I found a good deal on eBay, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122680285353 (although you can search and buy the parts separately, it doesn't have to be from this seller) UPS delivered it in three days. I checked the temperature, it was too hot to do anything so I let the car cool down a bit. Had enough time to go over the service_information manual <----MUST READ TWICE!!!!!! one more time The old plastic sump New metallic sump on the right Old oil sump out Not too much metallic deposits on the magnets, it's a good sign The oil itself, it looked like if somebody hasn't changed the engine oil in their petrol car for a good while... it didn't smell like it was burnt or anything . Mechatronics unit in its glory and the important bit... Those 4 seals in the middle of a gearbox, they need changing, but you can't change them without removing the mechatronics unit first. I suppose in all those threads about fluctuating rpms at a constant speed, almost all the time they are fixed by getting and installing a refurbished torque converter and that ''this is the only way'' might not be true!!! Maybe yes, but whenever I changed all the seals myself, the hard ''take off'' and ''fluctuating RPMs'' disappeared. so, I am guessing, if somebody changed their gearbox oil ''with all the seals'' they are the most likely culprit as it hasn't been done properly. Take a look at the difference yourself!!!!!!! the black seal(second longest from four of them) comparing to a brand new seal, you can see that it has shrunk noticeably, it was the same for the longest seal as well. I suppose they don't make enough of a tight seal to make/hold a required oil pressure, that's why rpms fluctuate.. Someone at the BMW parts department has messed up, as it didn't fit due to a small plastic notch on the other side of a plastic, see the difference in an image. I changed just the rubber bits as the old plastic case was still ok. New separate oil filter installed All tightened according to the manual listed above All done and change the engine oil while at it. The red bolt is a magnetic sump plug, will see if there is any metallic bits in the egine oil, next time its needs changing, looks fancy as well Job done. I reset the oil adjustment and also reset the adaptations(not the factory adaptations for the pressure plates) using ista and following the service information sheet to the point. Total cost including all the extra tools(torque wrench and a ''large syringe'' ) was about £280. Time wise better to do it over the weekend in a warm garage. There will be plenty of parts to be cleaned and put back together. It can be done alone. It worked for me! The gearbox is still learning my driving style, but it already feels like a brand new gearbox. Well worth doing and no need for a new/refurbished torque converter. I hope this helps somebody. Feel free to ask if you have any questions.
  13. Biotoxic

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Changed the gearbox oil and other bits, reset the oil change paremeters and reset learned adaptation values. Technical guide will be available tomorrow. Went better than expected.
  14. Biotoxic

    Vacuum Hose Replacement

    Changed all vacuum hoses to 4mm ID ones. +1 for them.
  15. Biotoxic

    535d Turbo and Intercooler Hoses

    I used the hoses in your first image. Get the proper jubilee clips(forgot the actual name of them). Recommended! You will have to use the Dremel to get the metallic bits off the aluminum hose where the boost pressure sensor is located in order to fit those hoses a.k.a. you will need to order 4 jubilee clips instead of 2. I got pre-LCI 535d.