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GoNz0

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Everything posted by GoNz0

  1. GoNz0

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    It has a drain plug, you will get nearly 8 out that way.
  2. GoNz0

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    I used this https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Suction-Vacuum-Transfer-Syringe-Extractor/dp/B00CLCMCUG Amazon have some nice pressurized ones around £16 though https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Draper-FHP-1L-23242-Multi-Purpose/dp/B008YFX1S6 You need ISTA or INPA to monitor the oil temp for the final top off, then reset the adaptations so it knows it has new oil and can relearn the shifts again.
  3. GoNz0

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    It can be done but you need the car high enough to work on and dead level.
  4. GoNz0

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    New front pads fitted Tuesday as they were very low, also replaced the rubber slider mounts, plan to do the rears that are like new but mintex pads, I am not keen on budget pads and wonder why the hell they were put on with new genuine discs? Last night the DPF sensor finally gave a clue it may be that spurring on the regen issues as I logged a 480a just over 1000mb, ISTA states that is a faulty sensor and the readings after were fine. Picked a sensor up this morning, 10 minute job to fit.
  5. I seem to have found a good one. I replaced the front control arms and tie rods, cracked the rear toe and camber bolts to make sure they wouldn't snap on the ramp and headed off for my 2nd track at kwik fit (2 year tracking package) and got the car back like this. The before on the rear is only due to me cracking the bolts free, it was close before. But look at my front track by eye, almost bang on I am more than happy with the post track results, they have a good lad there who knows his stuff.
  6. Kwik Fit Nottingham - Stapleford
  7. GoNz0

    brake light needed please.

    Hi, how much is the E61 3rd brake light 63257145667 please? Also when would you be able to get it to me? Thanks.
  8. Camber was fine on the front and we were talking about the adjustment procedure where you knock the pin out the top mount to allow some adjustment, he did say if it ever came to that he would change the top mount 1st as a true chassis would probably just need the top mount as the rubber would be tired on a car 8 years old, after that he agreed knocking the pin out would be the next step although he hasn't had to do that yet. (randomly I have the tool in my amazon basket just in case it did need any adjusting ) Rear camber was close to 2 degrees last time, he did offer to adjust it then but as it had only just hit the red on one side and I was planning some work that I would risk snapping bolts on my drive rather than his ramp, this time he did it close to spec but a bit more upright anyway ( I think he said 1.8 degrees was spec) due to them wearing the insides out, the car handles really well now
  9. GoNz0

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Load of bollocks isn't it, make a law and don't enforce it ffs. Means more twats in corsas blinding me when the police should be crushing the shitmobiles on site instead
  10. GoNz0

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Like I said https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/aftermarket-hid-headlamps/aftermarket-hid-headlamps And this is from 2010.
  11. As a lot of you know I have been trying to fix my overcooling issue due to a knackered gearbox heat exchanger, in the few months of owning my LCI 535d I have got through 7 heat exchangers, the thermostat design at some stage 5 or more years ago was replaced with cheap chinese thermostats that fail the 1st time they open putting you back in the same position you started off with. Behr make it for BMW, they also sell it under the Hella brand and it is the identical part as confirmed by Steve Hudson who runs the product development of Hella UK, feel free to phone him on 07860 895457 if you had one fail until the guy gets the bloody message! I had 3 Hella, then had to buy a BMW one for £200 that failed, I had BMW replace it under warranty twice and had to fight for that then they refunded me and left it on the car to wash their hands of the problem. They know the parts have a design flaw and choose to ignore it due to the car not having a temp display, if they did acknowledge the fault it would be a huge recall to sort it but they have no redesigned part to replace it with. As a last resort I tried a Nissens one, it turns out this was identical to the Trucktec part another guy fitted (yes it failed) and then I found it is the same as a cheap chinese one for £50 so the chance in a working replacement is 0% @Wabby pointed me in the direction of an inline thermostat to work around the problem, the part I used is a VAG part used for 12+ years in various cars from Golfs to the Audi R8. The stat needs to sit just after the heat exchanger to work. The parts needed are the stat, it is part number 4E0121113 and 2 27mm heavy duty spring clamps part number N 90687001 You can either call your local TPS and get genuine parts, the stat costs £26 or ebay it for £20 or £16 for a cheaper part, the clamps will be a couple of quid each, you will need coolant as well, I tend to lose 100-200ml as I clamp the pipes off. I use Irwin vice grips, a pair costs £8 at the moment at screwfix, great little tool and does a great job stopping coolant pissing out https://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-quick-grip-6-mini-one-handed-bar-clamp/29139. To get at the pipe to fit the inline stat the car needs to have the front end jacked up on axle stands, the undertray removed. The engine cover off and the slam panel removed to expose the rad and charge pipe. Unscrew the cover on top of the rad, and remove it (5 torx screws) unplug the fan then underneath again pull the coolant pipe off the bottom of the fan shroud and clamp it off to stop coolant coming out the heat exchanger, unclip the charge pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body making sure you take the temp sensor wire off, you can then remove the charge pipe from below, if that pipe has oil on the outside you need new seals from BMW. With the charge pipe off you can lift the fan out from above. You now have room to work. The pipe we are going to fit the stat in is the one running down to the front of the heat exchanger, clamp it off as close to the top as possible then go under the car and pop the clip out so you can remove it, put a catch try under the car as coolant will come out when you pull it off, this is the view from above. You will be taking out 50mm, as it happens the width of a wide roll of masking tape as you can see. Offer up the new stat and make sure you are happy that it is far enough up so it doesn't touch the elbow fitting, I think I went up about 60-70mm, measure twice cut once or you will be spending £60 on a new pipe, once happy cut out the 50mm section. Time for a cuppa but fill the kettle up as you will need hot water to soften the pipe. Start with the small section that connects to the exchanger and heat it up, grab some neat coolant to act as lubricant. This is the stat pointing up, it has a direction arrow and the flow comes from the exchanger up to the T connector that take it to the water pump Get a 27mm clamp and put it over the metal band on the elbow so it is out the way and ready to slip up into place once the pipes on. It is not easy getting the pipe in so I suggest you initially push the stat in upside down as this will let you hold the main housing and not the removable part ( I managed to rotate the fitting and caused it to leak so I had to take the bastard off to put it back together), push it in with some coolant to help then set it aside for 5 minutes while you finish your cuppa. Once it has cooled down it will have expanded so you can pull it out and fit it the right way up then move the 27mm clamp over the fitting, at least you can do this step off the car. Now you can fit the other side to the other part of the pipe, you only need to do it once this time. Slip the 2nd 27mm clamp up the pipe and push the stat into the pipe, once it is all the way down check the elbow lines up with the exchanger, if not twist it from the top so you can use the housing as a grip and once happy slip the clamp over ( I used mole grips to expand the clamp) Now you can fit the pipe back to the exchanger and remove the clamps. Refit the fan (check it hooks on at the bottom or it will flap about and trash everything) and plug in the power, clean the charge pipe seals (or replace them) and lube with engine oil then refit the charge pipe and plug to the temp sensor. Now is a good time to remove all your tools and fire up the engine to check for leaks and top off the coolant, once happy carry on putting the car back together. Refit the top cover for the rad and 5 screws followed by the slam panel and engine cover, clip the pipe back into the fan shroud from under the car and check the pipe fittings are secure, double check everything then refit the undertray. Check the coolant level then you are finished and the next day with a cold engine. Credits to @Wabby and @Clavurion for pointing me in the right direction.
  12. GoNz0

    brake light needed please.

    Nice one. I got the text from parcelforce early. Thank you.
  13. GoNz0

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    They never have been unless it meets factory standards, self levelling, headlight wash etc.
  14. GoNz0

    Aircons playing up!!!

    Did he stick any dye in?
  15. Honestly m8, it is no more work and the bonus is you get to work on it from above (yes I know you could take the other pipe off but then you have to replace a load of coolant) Just get a pair of clamps to keep coolant loss to a minimum and you only need a 1lt bottle of G48
  16. GoNz0

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Good job I used tie wraps to hold mine back up then, it's secure so shouldn't be a fail next month. Costing me £230 in lights as I need a new brake light and have a cracked inner rear light on the 61, both would be a fail.
  17. GoNz0

    OBD2 Port Draining Battery

    Given me an idea now to cut the signal wires on the ODB with a 2 channel relay, under £4 as well
  18. GoNz0

    brake light needed please.

    Sent by PayPal thanks.
  19. As was pointed out to me the guy who did a similar mod got it very wrong and obviously didn't force the box to overheat or he would be in the shit, he thinks the flow runs the other way and the way he has done it would be the same as sticking a plug in the pipe as the only way it will open it if the rad ever got to 80 on the cool side (not going to happen with the cooling setup) as that pipe is the feed pipe not the return pipe. Putting the stat where I did is perfect, cool coolant is drawn from the rad through the cooler where it picks up the gearbox heat and once the gearbox gets to 85 degrees it mixes enough to start the stat opening at 80 (the pinhole to allow flow is the reason why you need a stat rated lower than the main one of 92 as it is mixing pre cooled coolant if that makes sense) I have not got my box over 85 and the car sits happily at 88c or above. The other guy I was talking with who is a mechanic did the same mod just after me and did what he called a blue light run where he thrashed the tits off the car (off the clock) on the motorway followed by ragging along a ring road with islands dotted about to the box was pushed to the limit (his car is tuned as well) He has his better half monitoring it and it never went over 85 monitoring the gearbox. Look at your rad, the top pipe is the return on the right standing in front, the pipe he has used comes from the cool side. Yes it is a little harder to put it where I did but you have no other option as that is the return side. TBH once you pull the pipe off the cooler with the fan out the way you can bend it up and using a clamp like I did keeps it pointing up out the engine bay so you can do the work.
  20. GoNz0

    OBD2 Port Draining Battery

    Me being me I would fit a relay triggered by the ciggy socket to power it down when the engines shut off, saves having to remember doing anything when you get out.
  21. GoNz0

    Dreaded DPF warning

    The fact the car does those miles including motorway should keep that DPF in top condition m8, glad it regenned at last
  22. GoNz0

    Dreaded DPF warning

    480a isn't serious though, you just have to go finish the regen..
  23. GoNz0

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    I edited my post, it was TRW, dunno why I said ATE It still freaks me out getting into the car and pushing a brake pedal that still has a vacuum in it, car came with it leaking and losing vacuum after 5 seconds of shutting the engine off.
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