Darkbmwlord

Members
  • Content count

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    N/A

About Darkbmwlord

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Garage

  • Garage
    1999 523 SE manual, rust green
  1. I do indeed have some steering shimmy at times, and shudder under braking, as well as clonking from nearside front mainly, which is where the badly worn tire is...
  2. Here are the advisories, ignore the tyres, already sorted... Exactly what arms does it refer to?
  3. My last car was a Mitsubishi Colt, which appeared to have no discernible suspension at all, and clattered over the bumps like a skateboard. My tired E39 may not be able to decide which end to offer a corner first, but glides along like a Rolls Royce in comparison! I invite you to watch in horror as I run my shed on the proverbial shoestring! It should be entertaining if nothing else... I'll post up shortly the advisories on the recent MOT, and perhaps you can tell me which parts they are - instead of replacing everything cheaply, I could just replace the worn parts with quality items...
  4. "It wasn't always a cheap car..." That's very true of course, and fine machines need equally fine maintenance to conserve the correct behaviour and feel. Sadly I don't have the large enough wallet presently...
  5. Does this kit contain everything needed, apart from dampers? Also, do I need any special tools? I have a reasonable range of tools.
  6. Yes, well it seems that having the tyre reseated on the rim and correctly inflated has helped rather! It's going back into the tyre place tomorrow for a new front tyre, so I may get the others given the same treatment. Parking the car on completely flat ground shows that it does indeed lean towards the drivers side, however since some of the older buying guides mention that as a "characteristic" I'm not overly concerned about that. I'm slightly more reassured now, since I was wondering how such a bad handling car could have passed z recent MOT. Despite blowing up the rear tyre every 3 days it must have loosing air quicker than I realised. 20000 miles on cheap components? That's probably about as far as this car will go before the scrapyard. There are in fact no rattles or groans from the rear, but there's quite an orchestra up front.
  7. Get that tyre to stop leaking at the rim, and be quick about...
  8. Excellent info from all, many thanks gents for your time and trouble. As I've said before, I've no history with BMW'S at all, so this is a learning curve for me. I did buy this as a cheap shed for a spell, but despite its obvious faults I think there is actually the basis of a good car, with some patience. Im pretty expert at motoring on a budget, but I do keep my cars well serviced and maintained - it's the key to reliability, even on old cars. However, while it may horrify the enthusiasts among you here, I'm afraid it may be the cheap Chinese eBay suspension sets on this...you see, although I do quite a lot of long motorway trips, I'm not a "throw it it into the apex" driver. And this car simply isn't worth vast sums on it - it's old, tatty, and worthless. Now, if it was the 11000 mile beautiful example on eBay, that would be a different matter... But in fairness, despite its less than stellar reliability, I'm beginning to like this car, so I may run it for a while and then replace it with a nice one...
  9. Well, now I've been driving this E39 thing for a couple of weeks, I'm beginning to gradually approve. I like it's quietness and comfort. And sometimes it runs on all cylinders! However it is inescapable that this car clearly does not drive as one would expect a BMW to. Quite simply it's all over the place on the corners. While the front has a merry collection of clinks, it's the rear that concerns me most - on tight bends, the offside rear heels over as if there was a flat tyre - except there isn't. Normally I'd suspect a duff shock absorber or broken spring, but there's no sounds from the rear, and the car sits quite level. Given the complexity of the suspension on these cars, does anyone have any suggestions as to which components I should look at first? Many thanks for your help.
  10. Drove ma car.
  11. Excellent, thank you very much for that. I cleared the codes yesterday to create a level playing field, and it running quite smooth at the moment.
  12. Ah! Many thanks!
  13. I'm still confused! The images below are from the above article, and my engine is identical to the one in the picture! The car is called a 523 but the registration document shows it as a 2.5!
  14. Well after some grovelling, I discovered my car does indeed have an OBD socket, as well as a round thingy under the bonnet. Rejoice! (I could have saved myself buying an adaptor for the round thingy under the bonnet if I'd realised...) So, using a free app on my phone called TorquePro, and a Bluetooth ELM327 obd plugin wizardry, my phone showed me stored faults as per the picture. And the power of Google whisked me up a list of alleged code meanings. If correct, this is what was stored: P0101 - multiple misfires P0300 - mass airflow values implausible P0304 - cylinder 4 misfire P0306 - cylinder 6 misfire P0170 - fuel trim P0173 - fuel trim P1250 - I couldn't find anything listed Multiple misfires? I didn't need a code reader to tell me that... So, my questions: Do these look authentic codes? What is "fuel trim"? What is 01250? Why are no codes showing up for the abs - the dash is like Blackpool Illuminations with brake warning lights? The MAF sensor looks fairly new to me, and I would say it's not a genuine part. But it must be doing something because the engine runs poorly when it's disconnected. I've cleared all the stored faults and will see if any more develop, but ant thoughts on the above would be greatly appreciated!
  15. Hmmm, I'm confused, Haynes calls 2.5 as M54!