Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


About Ninja59

  • Rank

Profile Information


  • Garage
    F06 Gran Coupe
  1. All UK Cars are leather Dakota, Nappa and Merino. It is just different sections and processing. Baby wipes are okay for every so often but be careful if they have any alcohol content or aggressive pH as they can damage the surface. Similar to jean dye etc. For me Dr Leather or LTT Leathercare every time.
  2. How secure is your car...

    Mine worked perfectly next to the start button stopping the car from even knowing the key was there. Make sure you use a decent one and in the full protection bit of the bag not just the partial.
  3. Why are we trying to condition seats with top coatings (even Nappa and Merino are only semi aniline)...? Cleaning and hydrating the surface is more important.
  4. Use Discount Codes on the home page for discounts: Connected Drive Services - 50% - BlackCD BMW Digital Services - 20% - Black17 Remote Services - 35% - BlackRS RTTI - 20% - Black17 Online Entertainment - 20% - Black17
  5. Another charging question

    https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f11-535d-tou/repair-manuals/00-maintenance-general-note/00-04-12-v-vehicle-electrical-system/1LiMpr2r About the AGM battery... Also some notes at the top about the IBS. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f11-535d-tou/repair-manuals/00-maintenance-general-note/00-04-12-v-vehicle-electrical-system/1LyvW9MF
  6. F10 Wind Noise

    In the 640D the noise is tyre roar (which on 20's is very apparent over poor quality surfaces). That said window down slightly you do notice some *limited* wing mirror noise (same mirror across F01/F06/F10/F11/F12/F13 and I believe even the E60/E61 use the same mirror glass).
  7. BMW F10 535d warning oil to high

    I know of 2 other 640D's that just prior to a service said oil level high. Both of them did find some oil, it was down to failed regens. But I also think some of it is down to the length of time the oil has been in there and the quality of it declining in protective qualities. Mine degraded very rapidly only in the final 1500 or so miles, since then the change from there it was much cleaner without dilution (it was given an interim change at just above 12.5K, which means between service mine "should" have lasted 17K). Still way too many miles for my comfort for an oil change and speaking with the tech who oversaw it he agreed ignore the CBS and the servicing at between 10k-12.5k is far more sensible. My interim change improved my MPG by 3 MPG immediately (then I lost it quickly with Winter tyres but oh well!)
  8. BMW F10 535d warning oil to high

    @535i Andrew My 640D did it about 900 miles prior to the first service, so it was taken in a couple of weeks early due to it. Dealer found about 100 ml of oil over max and the diluted with a little diesel. Mine has had an interim change this year with about 3200 to an actual service. showing under the service plan.
  9. Heavy rain, Water leak

    @Matthew Ashton Cheers, I had enough fun trying to actually see it at first, and as others have stated finding the bolt on the passenger inner wing is a PITA!
  10. Heavy rain, Water leak

    Cheers guys managed to identify said cover this morning gave it a little tug to see if anything would appear, but clearly still bolted all up. Nothing appeared, but it clearly loosened the fabric. Will look to remove it this weekend, or as it is in for my boot drip rail and central air vent to be replaced I might try and charm my SM to remove it for a nose and clean.
  11. Heavy rain, Water leak

    How hard is it to get to this insulation panel? I have had a quick look today via the passenger side, but could not quickly identify it. Unfortunately this panel and cover is far more common than you think F01, F06, F10, F11, F12, F13, Ghost, Wraith and Dawn. So clearly there is some level of design cockup. My drains under the bonnet struts are fairly clear of any debris (but I will be hoovering them at the weekend as I have noticed one leaf - damn autumn.
  12. 19" Wheels - Much of a difference?

    My Summer is 20 inch so I am used to silly price on tyres, I run 17 inch Winters so yes I am used to costs. It was purely from a ride perspective Oh with my 17" Winter setup I am used to it! Tyre profile size is actually exactly the same across both F06 and F10 - 245/40 R19 and 275/35 R19. Actually you will find a lot of the rolling chassis elements are the same (and we suffer with the same issues as you lot) Essentially it would add a bit more profile to my ride. But I wanted to know whether stepping down an inch would make a decent difference. As for wheels themselves yes the classic LM's are on the agenda somewhat!
  13. Not many of the 6 series boys run 19's, so I am looking for information (most have the 20" wheels - like me) However, the ride on 20's whilst it looks right, is slowly becoming a bit of annoyance as the roads I drive on crumble further (or are repaired in a manner that you wonder why they bothered at all). For those that run 19's how do you find the ride on the standard factory setup tyre size? (without adaptive drive or VDC) Also have you suffered any bulges or tyre issues? (non runflat or runflat) I am not looking at BMW wheels either, but joining potentially the BBS club come next year.
  14. Autowatch Ghost Immobiliser

    No unfortunately said car was stolen even with one of these fitted, sadly just this week in the Birmingham area. The owner deliberately was not using the app either and more so had only had the car a few weeks. Somehow, there is a way to actually breach them without the code and get the car to start. The only thing that HAS been confirmed about this breach so far though is it only appears to work on Ford Focus MK2 RS's. Additionally if you look around the most targeted car maker appears to be Ford. Just this week I am aware of a certain number of dealers resorting to a disklock on the cars on the forecourt...make of that what you will. The other issue is not so much these scum managing to steal cars, there now appears to be much more violence to actually getting the keys. CCTV appears to make no difference, so you back to talking about locks (anti snap and anti bump), window films etc. combined if necessary with internal locks. Overall you can group theft methods like this: 1) Breaking into the home - this seems more prevalent than ever right now - some cases of serious violence (like in Yorkshire with the Golf R owner who handed over the keys, but said gang still decided to taser the poor owner - luckily this bunch got caught - one was 15 FFS!) 2) Capturing and Replaying the cars locking signals - if you cannot lock your car then have a good look around for any suspicious activity 3) Extending the wireless keys range via extenders in bags - this seems a now very common method being used. It only really works for Comfort Access cars in our case though. Although technically it could be used for any non comfort access cars once they gained entry. It is worth buying an RF signal blocking bag for your spare and main keys each night to prevent such actions or use a foil lined tin. I have one and the car genuinely just cannot see the key even next to the steering column. 4) Using things like luckylocks turbo decoders to unpick the door lock, and using a mixture of extending the wireless signal, OBD port to attempt to copy keys to get it started etc. 5) Smashing the window appears less obvious, but I have still seen a few and then similar to 4 to get it started 6) Lifting the sod on to a lorry 7) Following the owner home and yes use of violence again It might also be worth checking for some of any unusual things stuck in wheel arches or the underside as some trackers have been found on cars after car shows etc.
  15. Soon be time to change

    435D was okay, but is very fussy on specification, still a good engine, but I felt it was excessively like the 3 series to be really honest. You really need to option up one to make it feel less 3 series like.I suspect you will be disappointing in the interior following an F10. Saying that I know plenty of very happy 435D and 440i owners (some having owned 640's), but they did highlight the point above a lot if they had owned a 5 or 6. C43 I could not comment, but my boss has a C63S, the interior is very nice, but in day to day use finds the interior frustrating as it is excessively form over function. Furthermore, his main feedback was that idrive in BMW's is just better end of (having recently purchased an X5 40D for his wife). I suspect a very personal choice and nothing to loose. I would be of a feeling though that I should have just bought the '63 to be honest if looking at a '43. 640D lucky for you I am a Gran Coupe owner!. The engine is the same as the 535D so at least in my experience you will find it smoother than even a 30D. It depends if you were looking for Pre LCI or LCI. Pre LCI cars still have the indicator in the wings, 10 slat grills, smaller exhaust tips, different headlight design, and the idrive surround is a matt black finish and display, LCI cars indicator in the mirror, 9 slat grills, larger exhaust tips by 10mm, different headlight design, full digital dash as well (although there are some Pre LCI cars with this as standard I think) and the gloss finish on the display. Regarding spec personally go LCI. LED headlights became standard, the adaptive is common on the 6 LCI as it was only a £650 option unlike Pre LCI where adaptive LED was £2500+ with Xenon as standard. M Sport Pack is common and includes HK, 20" wheels and HUD. In addition my car has the adaptive headlights, comfort seats and sunroof. The biggest issues are with ride, wheels and seats. Everything mechanical is basically F10 and the odd bit of F01, so you will find on that side things similar. Ride can be unsettled on the 20's. These wheels also suffer with a number of buckles, tyre issues (front tyres on runflats are very prone to bulges bizarrely despite having slightly more profile), seats on early cars in some cases were fully replaced due to issues (irrespective of sport seats (standard) or comfort seats). Other points to note is technically speaking the 6 series is still ahead in body panels of the new G30 series (it just does not have the lighter chassis being partially aluminium again). All body panels - roof, rear quarter, bonnet, doors are all aluminium, boot, wings are composite. You will find insurers charge more because of this. Do think about parking as the 6 series is even longer, and just shy in size terms of an F01. The width is never a problem, the length is, that car parking space you thought was big is not as long as the 6 in many cases (New Range Rover SWB i shorter, current XC90 is shorter for example). I drive updates on the 6 do not align with the 5 either. So be careful when looking around. Final 6 comment...pay no attention to the list price it is a pure work of fiction (worse than any other BMW list price!). I know people who got £20,000 - £25,000 discount and 0% APR on new cars. So if looking at AUC be careful when anyone highlights the original cost. For instance my car (an AUC car, although only 2k on the clock)...£77,000 list price. Reality is 6 months old and it was sold for £45k to me. Some people think these cars depreciate heavily, which is not the case as original owners were usually mid 40's to early 50's for the cars (the amount of times I have heard that people are looking at a 640D based on depreciation against list is laughable!). M3 I know plenty of ex 640 owners here who found the 6 excessively large. Biggest issue for them was the interior needing lots spent on it rather like the 4 series.