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  1. Yes I think set crossover of rears same as fronts Tip of the day when doing Subs - slide seat back first and undo front bolts, then slide it forward and undo rear, then tip back. Seat goes up much higher like that. I did it the wrong way round first time and tipped the seat back when it was slid back, which is why I had such a struggle with the woofer covers. When I redid them to join the 4 wires it was a revelation... would have saved a lot of blood, sweat and tears if I'd done it that way first time and probably would not have broken the screw... I found some DSP settings files here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=929033 - its for the 120.4 but may work on the D2 - gonna try them out on presets 2-4.
  2. The bad news - one of my woofer cover screws snapped with half stuck in the hole and unable to get it out so either going to have to put up with one corner not being screwed down or get a new woofer enclosure from a breakers and refit it! The good news - did some basic DSP setup tonight and it sounds so much better! E39 - you really do need to set the crossovers for the woofers and door speakers - sounds very muddy without as the woofers are trying to deal with high frequencies, and the doors with low frequencies that they can't handle. You want a low pass filter on the woofers at somewhere around 120-150Hz and a high pass on the doors somewhere around 220Hz Then EQ to taste - gonna spend some more time on the EQing but just setting the crossovers made a massive difference.
  3. Yes, that's what i'm doing - left a bit of wire on the connector so if I ever want to go back to factory set up I can re-connect it. This stereo better be bloody good after all this! Hopefully doing the DSP with mates laptop tonight - what frequencies did you set the crossovers at for the woofers and doors E39?
  4. Thanks again guys So..... got the amp all wired up and turned it on and...... only got sound from the woofers, nothing from the doors... Spoke to Amar at TeamSPB and he asked "are there 4 wires going into the woofers or 2" "4" I said "Oh" he said, "you'll need to join those 4 wires together, like to like" "Oh" I said, "Bollocks..." So, seats out again, woofer covers off again. Doing the drivers side now and I've tested it and it works so that was def the problem. Would very much like to have known that earlier though!
  5. Suddenly thought of something possibly bad... I didn't insulate my speaker terminals after wiring them up (undercut woofers and door mids) - should I have done? The underseat terminals have carpet on top of them - maybe the carpet touches them I don't know. Do I need to take the seats up again, remove the covers and wrap the terminals in insulating tape? Rookie error...
  6. Thanks guys - I actually got the seat fixed this morning - managed to do it by basically doing the opposite of what I had been doing... Rather than try and hold the lever with my right hand and use the other to try and pull the rail with pliers, I came in from the drivers side, used my left hand (with pliers) to push the rail forward from the back while reaching over to lift the lever with my right - that way I could also use my shoulder to lift that side of the seat up a bit - so passenger seat now safely secured. Sounds like your advice may well have worked too though E39. Got the drivers door and underseat woofer done today too. Have a horrible feeling my drivers side woofer wire may be about 6in too short but we shall see...
  7. Didn't have a great deal of time today as went to the British Museum with the family - but as well as getting the loom through to the amp I also got the passenger door done this morning - card off, original speaker out, 10 sheets of silent coat, replacement Gladen speaker in, tweeter in the new tweeter sail and all put back together. Feeling positive again - Just need to do the drivers side door and underseat woofer and run that woofer cable back to the amp now, then wire up the amp but that should be easy compared to everything else. And fix the passenger seat rail... or probably get it fixed elsewhere as not had any luck at all so far.
  8. Thanks E39 So sleeping on things must have helped as had a brainwave when I woke up this morning - the old coat hanger trick! Managed to get the loom through the hole following the existing loom and behind all the boot trim without removing any of it - just threaded a straightened coat hanger through first then taped the loom to it and pulled it through.. Bingo!
  9. So you mean lift the lever that enables seat to slide forward and back with one hand , and try grabbing the front of the rail that need to come forward with a pair of pliers and pulling with the other? Also could really use some advice on how/where to run the loom into the boot... Do I need to remove the side panels in the boot to run the loom, (and on the other side too to run the drivers side woofer wire... I think to remove those I need to remove a lot of boot trim. Can't find a single video or install guide for the F11 anywhere. After a good start this morning, I'm feeling a bit depressed about it now! thanks.
  10. The seat is already slid back as far as it will go I think. I need to pull the rail on the far side forward, but I don't know how to do it. If the seat is unscrewed and you lift the lever that allows the seat to slide forward and back, should you be able to slide the rail as opposed to the seat?
  11. After speaking to Amar at team SPB, I put some on the bottom of the case (exterior). So I have run into a couple of issues... First, somehow in the process of lifting the front passenger seat, the rails have become misaligned with each other (see pics). How do I go about realigning them? And next - have got the loom as far as the back seat - but unsure where to take it next... (the loom is the white and blue cables which are folded back on themselves in the photo) Do I try and follow the existing big loom you can see or do I go under the seat somehow? The amp will be in the left side boot compartment (behind removable panel on left when looking into boot)
  12. Some progress today! (if a bit slow...) So I got the head unit and glove box (mostly) out, replaced the quad connector at back of head unit, fed the loom back round behind the glove box (bastard of a job and got the scabs to prove it) and am currently working it under the trim towards the back seat. Got the head unit back in (another tricky job as not much room behind there to fit the new quad connectors) and glove box back in and the stereo is working and playing out the rear speakers only which I guess is a good sign. Currently have the passenger seat up and back and got the passenger woofer enclosure out and am just about to fit the extreme woofer on that side. Question: should I put some silent coat inside the back of the woofer enclosure or not? sure I saw a pic of someone doing that somewhere... Onwards and upwards!