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  1. I believe the coding was done to: • Add digital read out of current speed as one of the display options on the instrument cluster • Code the boot open button so that holding it down automatically closes the boot • "prepared the system" so I can update the Sat Nav maps to latest version • something else I think that escapes me for the moment... He also showed me how to get the best out of the split display options on the control screen. I ended up spending around 2 hours there and it was a pleasure to meet such a genuine, clever, kind and helpful gentleman. I will definitely let TeamSPB know about the Fibre Optics issue with the loom. I don't think it requires a different loom - but future purchasers should be told that they need to unplug the green cables from the original connector and plug them into the loom.
  2. I'd like to give a MASSIVE THANK YOU to Matthew who kindly helped diagnose and fix my car today (as well as code a few extra nice to have features!) For the record, it turned out that nothing was actually broken, but the loom that was supplied with the amp did not cater for the 2 green fibre optic cables that fed into the original connecter that plugged into the head unit. The solution was to unplug these fibre optic cables from the original connector, and plug them directly into the connector on the loom (which is now plugged into the head unit) - this restored the MOST network and fixed all my issues with HUD not working and time not setting etc.
  3. Yes E39 - both of those are definitely distinct possibilities! There certainly isn't much room for the quad lock behind the head unit that's for sure...
  4. Thanks Matthew - How do I find the Sat Nav version? Had a look at all the Satnav controls and it doesn't seem to mention either of those anywhere I could see. Here's a pic of the tail light.
  5. Actually - I say bluetooth phone is fine - it is certainly fine for audio streaming from my iPhone. But I haven't been able to use BMW online/BMW connect - that may just be because I don't have account configured properly yet as car is new to me and need to get the car registration with BWM connect swapped over from old owner. But car does not seem to ba able to use my phone to make an internet connection either via bluetooth or usb - this could well just be me not knowing how to do it properly though - never tried doing it before now.
  6. Thanks Matthew - I appreciate the offer of help. Unfortunately I am a fair way from you over the other side of London near Hampton Court. But if I can't get to the bottom of it I may well be taking you up on it - at least he car drives fine! I do have a bow dealership close by but I guess things could get expensive fast there. I'm finding the inability to manually set the time the strangest thing actually...it just doesn't save at all. I wonder if that is a clue of some sort. I think your suggestion to take the head unit out again and check the wiring and then disconnect the amp and see if that help amy be a good first step. thanks a lot for your help.
  7. Music playback is fine, bluetooth phone is fine, satnav fine. Looking at my pic, I think I came in well above the Combox with the new loom (the big wire you can see coming over the foam at the top) - but I guess it depends how long that box is (the part I can't see) and the wiring that side of it.
  8. There is definitely a small silver box which sits at an angle about two thirds the way up behind the panel that is revealed when you remove the back quarter panel - if that makes sense! It sits behind the part of the panel that isn't easily removed, but you can see it when you take off the panel at the rear which pulls out easily. edit - here's a pic from my car
  9. Its a 13 plate so I think that is CIC (pre-facelift) right? Sorry i'm not to up on this stuff... I've put the new amp where the factory amp would have been if it had one - that was where I was pushing the cable through and did most general fiddling wiring up the amp to speakers and power etc. I didn't go behind the instrument cluster at all - the amp came with a special loom that sorted all that stuff out for me directly behind the head unit. I just took head unit out, connected the loom, and pushed head unit back in again. I don't have a PC laptop (mac based) or ISTA/D unfortunately.
  10. Is the combox in here somewhere (this a pic from another older Touring - but this is the area I pushed the coat hanger/cable through
  11. I don't think I would have replaced a connector incorrectly, as I simply unclipped the factory quad lock and plugged in the quad lock from the loom for the amp (and plugged the factory quad lock into the loom. However there were some other individual cables into the head unit (other than the main quad lock) which i guess could have become disconnected - there was very little room to work with as the head unit could not come out far due to short length of original cabling. Is a good place to start taking the head unit out again and having a look? I thought of doing this but then thought the iDrive control screen and the HUD may have no connection to the head unit. I don't have a boot wheel well as such as it is an F11 Touring with run flats. Where the spare wheel was on my old E46 is now where the battery is on the F11 As part of the audio install i did push a coat hanger through from behind the seats to run a wire behind the side panels in the boot - I guess that could have dislodged something... (see pic - I went through the hole where the main loom goes and ran it back to where the amp is sitting in the left quarter panel) Where would this combox be in an F11 - is it behind one of the side panels in the boot? Sorry Im completely new to all this and it took me 3 nearly 3 days to fit the amp and speakers!
  12. I recently installed an amp and new speaker in my 13 plate F11 330D Touring. This involved disconnecting the battery for a short while. I thought everything had generally gone well but noticed some issues today. 1. First thing I noticed (while doing the install) was that my date and time settings were lost from the head unit when i disconnected it, and then from the instrument cluster when I unplugged the battery. I have tried resetting the time and date manually but they don't seem to want to save - I set the minutes for example by turning the drive wheel, then click when they show the correct minute - but when I then go out of those settings the new time has not been saved and drive screen still shows --:--. Any idea why this is and also how do I set the time on the Instrument Cluster - or does should that come from the iDrive setting to? 2. My HUD seems to no longer work and the settings for it in iDrive are now greyed out 3. My instrument Cluster settings in iDrive are all unchecked, and clicking on items does not check (tick) them 4. My "Check Control" screen in iDrive is Blank - never looked at it previously so don't know if this is normal or not (see pic) 5 I have a warning light on my dash but don't know what it is (its not the open door, its on all the time). its just the orange triangle with no additional info. Can anyone suggest fixes/advice for these please? thanks.
  13. Re the HUD issue - wondering if I'm thinking about it wrong - maybe there is no connection between HUD and head unit - maybe the issue is to do with me disconnecting the battery somehow. Also When I go to my settings for the Instrument Cluster, everything is unchecked and clicking on items doesn't check (tick) them? Is that normal?? Edit: Started another thread as I think this is more to do with issues related to disconnecting battery than audio specific.
  14. So I've got everything fitted and all sounding good... but there's a few non-audio issues I've noticed. 1. I just noticed I have lost my HUD - nothing displaying on the screen and the settings greyed out in iDrive. Can someone tell me how the HUD connects to the head unit please? Is it part of the main loom or one of the separate connectors? I guess if a separate connector it could have come loose or got damaged somehow when installing the amp quad lock connector. 2. I have a warning light and I don't know what it is for (see pic) (its not because the door is open, it is on all the time). When door is not open, there is just the orange warning triangle and nothing else. 3. When I unplugged the head unit it lost its time/date settings. And when i unhooked the battery the dash lost it's time and date settings. I have tried setting time and date manually on the head unit but it is not saving. I read the instructions and when setting the minute for example you turn the drive wheel to the right minute and click the wheel to save it - but none of the data I enter is being saved - after entering all the time/date info and then going back out of that setting and back in again, time is back to --:--. And I'm not sure how to set time/date on the dash or link the 2. I tried to set automatically using btw connect but I can't connect to that service yet as have to get vehicle registered in my name with them - I guess it is still in previous owners name. 4 Should my Check Control screen be blank like this? Never clicked on it before installing the audio so no idea what if anything was there before...