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About Scimmer

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    2012 F10 520d | 2010 F10 520d
  1. KDS / Alignment question

    Getting the wheels aligned is probably one of the best things you can do. It is definitely worth it, not just for tyre wear but also for handling. I would also suggest getting the wheels rebalanced. You may find you only need to have one wheel done if any do need rebalanced but you will notice the difference straight away. I had one done for less than £20. The rest were checked for nothing as they did not need adjusting.
  2. Replaced cabin filter and air filter. Both were pretty black and filled with debris. The cabin filters took like two seconds to swap but damn that design. Took like forty minutes to undo and redo the panels and lid to get at them. Never want to do that again.
  3. Changing the gearbox oil isn't any more difficult than the engine oil, its just more time consuming because the car needs to be elevated with four axle stands and the whole middle panel needs to be removed. One annoying thing I did find is that there is a non-movable thin metal bracket that holds the panel and it is placed right in front of the fill bolt. Easy enough to get around with the flexible hose on the pump but it scratched the hell out of my torque wrench I did wing it a bit as there was nothing to indicate which gearbox it was for the torque values, just spurious codes, so based it on the GS6-45DZ from pictures on eBay. The gearbox fitted to mine, the fill bolt is a T50, not a HX8 like the drain bolt. Overall I would say its worth doing as preventative maintenance. I bought two 1 litre bottles for £35 and used about 1.3 litres. The differential on the other hand: why does mine not have a drain plug! Had to pull out the oil with the pump.
  4. I stopped about twice at services to inflate it and it hadn't lost that much air. Thankfully I was able to get it replaced that weekend. It was a bit risky but I figured if the tyre stays within the pressure range it should be fine. I don't know. They also put broken glass along the bottom edge fence which resulted in an annoying vet bill. Something something misery guts.
  5. service the car

    Ah right. I must be the only person I know with a BMW that doesn't have it. Always behind the curve.
  6. I followed this: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-520d-lim/repair-manuals/23-manual-gearbox/23-00-manual-gearbox/1VnYc440mD I use this which I also use for the differential: https://www.bavauto.com/b8800003 There is no filter to change on this particular gearbox.
  7. RED X?

    Drain tank to reserve, fill up to full with premium fuel, perform an Italian tune up, then back to the cheapest fuel. You are paying like £20 a litre for RedX. That would get you at least 14 litres of premium fuel. The only way you can truly get any performance back is to actually physically clean the engine. I did this with 2 strokes, rebuilt the engines, cleaned out the power valves, decoked the expansion chambers, polished up the cylinder heads and put in fresh spark plugs. The response from the engines afterwards was incredible. There would have been no way that anything like RedX would have made a dent to the build up carbon. I haven't had the chance to do this with a 4 stroke engine, mostly because I don't have the tools.
  8. I have a mini compressor I got for free. Used it once on a 400 mile journey after I discovered that my neighbour had put nails under my wheels again for a third time. The manual states to not exceed 50 mph for a short distance or whatever but if the tyre is constantly pumped up as its a slow puncture before the warning comes on, then it should be fine. That's what I did. I'm not dragging out a six hour journey. Its long enough.
  9. Put in fresh gearbox oil. Lifetime fluid... yeah right! The oil that came out was like chocolate milk and that was at 55,000 miles!
  10. service the car

    How come my F10 doesn't list service history in iDrive but others do?
  11. Have you had the wheels rebalanced? I had an issue where I would feel a little vibration on the steering wheel. Turned out one of the wheels was unbalanced and acted like an oval because all of the weight was on one area. I went to a specialist as very few places offer precise wheel balancing and they used a computerised balancing machine and spun round the tyre and reset it on the rim. Standard tyre shops just stick on the tyre and put a weight on the opposing side of where it is heavy. It was like driving a different car afterwards, it was that noticeable.
  12. I'll need my binoculars to see that one if its the only one.
  13. Traction control behavior

    I experience the same but I have to make it happen. Usually at either standstill or low speed going over rough road or turning into a junction after I floor the pedal. The traction control symbol rarely comes up but its not something I do a lot either. The rest of the time, the car just wont budge, then again, I wouldn't cheap out by fitting Nexens considering how well this car handles itself in all conditions.
  14. Tyre pressure warning

    That PCL gauge seems a bit steep. Is it really that better than the generic Draper/Sealey ones? I still need to replace my gauge I left in my old F10 when I traded it in. Still kicking myself about that.
  15. Brake pad warning

    I had the same issue a few months back. It turned out to be the wire on the wear sensor had snapped. Either from being chewed at or a stone sliced it. £20 for a sensor. Its pretty easy to fit just make sure that the cable does not rub on the rim; secure it to the bracket. My F10 has sensors on both front brake callipers.