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About Oneball

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    2004 Alpina B3s, 1998 540i Touring, 2013 R1200GS LC, Mk1 Mini Cooper S
  1. This is from memory so don't take it as gospel, but I think the instrument cluster just displays the odo reading and the actual mileage is stored elsewhere, in the LCM I think, so it may not be your cluster that is at fault. You can use the cluster test to see if all the pixels are working and to try a cluster reset, Google E39 hidden menu. Also is check if the tamper dot is showing as this will tell if there is a mileage discrepancy between different control units.
  2. Just pulled the ECU out and it's all packaged up to be sent off to be tested. Perversely, I've got my fingers crossed its buggered coz I'm running out of ideas.
  3. Thanks I've already checked this and it had new o rings when took out the injectors, twice!
  4. From memory the speedo takes its reading from the left rear wheel speed sensor.
  5. Thanks, seems strange, can't remember what my E34 did and all my other BMW have been post OBD2.
  6. I doubt there's a transmission issue, the ecu for the trans gets a lot of data from engine and ABS sensors. So if there are other errors as well as the trans then it's probably not the box itself. As said above you really need the codes to be read to diagnose. Could be wheel speed sensors, gearbox speed sensor, throttle position sensor etc etc it's a bit of a shot in the dark without the fault codes. You'll need a reader that does ABS as well as OBD2 and something BMW specific would be best
  7. While trying to sort an issue with my 1998 540i Thread Here I've been disconnecting various bits and pieces and noticed the CEL never comes on. I know there's certain things like cam sensor that don't trip it. It illuminates when you perform the cluster test in the hidden menu but doesn't light up when you turn the ignition on. Can anyone confirm that their '98 high OBC car does light the CEL when they turn the ignition on?
  8. The difference between the doors you quote is that the top line is for US spec cars and the bottom line for Europe, nothing to do with iX.
  9. Thanks I'll look them up.
  10. Sorry, assumed you'd bench tested the starter motor. Have you checked that you get 12v at the little solenoid terminal when the key is turned to start and 0v at all other times? If you have and you've got 12v at the direct connection to the battery and the starter turns over when you jump it to the car's battery then it sounds like the solenoid has failed.
  11. few other thoughts. Does the engine turn turn over by hand? Is the starter motor pinion jammed on the engine? It could be the starter motor itself. I used to have to regularly change the one on the race car as it would gradually become less effective up to the point that it would no longer turn the engine over and would resemble a flat battery. If you took it off and connected 12v it would spin ok. Can you connect 12v directly to the starter when it is attached to confirm it will turn the engine?
  12. You mentioned earthing in your first post so I'm guessing you've checked this but it does sound like a possible earth fault and the current is then trying to find its way to earth via the lights. Also have you checked that there is 12v from the battery at the starter. It may may be that the solenoid has power from the key and you get a click. But the direct power from the battery isn't present.
  13. I think your throttle is fly by wire, if it is, I'd suggest that's your problem. To test, measure the resistance across the pedal. It should change smoothly as you depress the pedal. If it's jumpy or randomly changes that's your problem.
  14. Cam timing checked out ok, Now need to find somewhere that can test the ECU.
  15. Could be the throttle pedal.